Oregon Coast – Day 3

Yurt at Nehalem Bay State Park in Oregon

It’s raining when we wake during the night, but listening to the rain patter on our canvas yurt was like the sound of a perfect lullaby. We only booked two nights in yurts on this first exploration of the Oregon Coast and now wish we had one more night in a yurt before heading back to Phoenix. We’ve already decided that we will have to return again and again, and as often as we can, we’ll make an effort to stay in a yurt.

Dawn on the Oregon coast

Because it has been our goal to see the coast from bottom to top and back to bottom during our stay out here, it’s imperative that we rise with first light. We know that we’ll miss stuff as we drive at night, but hope that on the way back, we’ll catch some of what we missed. Also, due to the relatively short amount of time we have up here, we must curtail some of the stops for photos, or we’d get nowhere. As it is, I’m going to be posting quite a few images to accompany this day because so many of these images stood out to us and cut an indelible impression in our imaginations forming some memories we hope to carry our entire lives.

On the beach shortly after dawn on a foggy day on the coast of Oregon

Our first real walk of the day was at Arcadia Beach. The dampness, color, fog, and sound of the crashing waves all work to make for perfect scenery for both Caroline and me.

Caroline Wise standing in the surf on the Oregon coast

The cold will not deter Caroline from doffing her shoes and rolling up her pants (that rarely helps because she so frequently gets caught by the wave she didn’t see) to step into the Pacific for that picture of her standing in water. Some day, I will have to collect all the images from coast to coast we’ve shot of her standing in a lake, river, ocean, or creek and post a blog entry just about her visits to America’s waterways.

Oregon Coast

The contrast between the wild ocean and wind-swept golden grass is a sight for us to remember. Click the image for a larger view of the panorama, or click here.

Two slugs in love on the Oregon coast

Two slugs in love on the coast of Oregon reminds Caroline and me of us!

Fort Clatsop Lewis and Clark National Historic Park in Astoria, Oregon

Lewis and Clark slept here. Well, not really right here, as this is a recreation, but this site marks the end of their journey across the western territories to the Pacific. We are at Fort Clatsop – Lewis and Clark National Historical Park in Astoria, Oregon, near the mouth of the Columbia River.

Fort Clatsop in Astoria, Oregon

It’s another world out here at Fort Clatsop, with the weather lending to the sense of what a cold, wet day might have been like for Lewis and Clark.

Crossing into Washington from Oregon over the Columbia River in Astoria

Crossing from Astoria, Oregon, into Washington over the Columbia River.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Lewis and Clark Trail in Washington on the Columbia River

We went to Washington for bragging rights, so this trip on the Oregon coast would include visits to California and Washington too.

Looking south from Washington to Oregon

Looking back south to some dark, harsh weather over in Oregon while we head into clearer skies in Washington…

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the Welcome to Washington state sign

…things were delightful. Sure, this selfie is similar to the one just two photos ago, but that one was to commemorate being on another part of the Lewis and Clark Trail, and this one is to prove we were in Washington on this trip.

Cape Disappointment Lighthouse in Southern Washington

Cape Disappointment in southern Washington at the mouth of the Columbia River. We’ve never visited this lighthouse as of me writing this blog entry in 2018 (takes note to rectify this).

Fort Stevens State Park in Oregon

We did the accelerated 15-minute tour of Fort Stevens State Park and only afterward learned we missed an amazing old shipwreck on the beach, the Peter Iredale.

Cannon Beach, Oregon

Moving south again, we stopped to visit the Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach in Oregon. This turns out to be a favorite place for long walks along the ocean and will remain so for years to come.

Fishing on the Oregon coast

A couple of fishermen heading in.

Tillamook Cheese Factory Tour in Tillamook, Oregon

Just enough time to squeeze in a quick tour of the Tillamook Cheese Factory. While we enjoyed our brief tour, I have the feeling this place would leave many a French person feeling a bit disgusted by it all.

Tillamook Cheese Factory ice cream shop in Tillamook, Oregon

While the people of the Netherlands might also balk at our cheese-making skills here in America (except for those women of Cowgirl Creamery in Pt. Reyes, California), they would be pacified by a taste of Tillamook Marionberry Pie ice cream. This ice cream shop is part of the Tillamook Cheese Factory.

Blue Heron French Cheese Company in Tillamook, Oregon

Neither Caroline nor I remember if we were able to visit the Blue Heron French Cheese Company on this first visit to the coast. I have a vague memory it was closed by the time we reached the place, but who knows? What I do know is that we ultimately did visit here on a subsequent trip and were introduced to smoked brie and have been coming back ever since just for it.

Blue Heron French Cheese Company in Tillamook, Oregon

The colors and contrast of the orange, rust, black, woods, grass, moss in the windows, and foggy background all worked to make this a favorite of mine.

Caroline Wise stepping into the ocean in Lincoln City, Oregon

One more time, stepping into the ocean before darkness overtakes the day. What I said earlier about Caroline rolling up her pant legs, look at her right leg for proof that she could do better.

We stayed at the Bayshore Motel in Coos Bay for only $34 and dined at Abby’s Legendary Pizza. Besides Cannon Beach, we find that there are not a lot of fine dining options on the Oregon Coast.

Oregon Coast – Day 2

Yurt at Harris Beach State Park in Brookings, Oregon

This is the day that we officially fell in love with the Oregon Coast. It is the morning after our first amazing night in a yurt at Harris Beach State Park. We were in this unit, the Winchuck.

Caroline Wise trying to fly a kite on Harris Beach in Oregon

Caroline is trying her best to get this kite aloft and maybe she was a little successful, but not what she needed to feel it. The rock in the background is Goat Island here at Harris Beach.

Looking north at Harris Beach in Oregon

Looking north from the parking lot of Harris Beach.

Coos Bay, Oregon

For a moment, we had a glimmer of sunlight fall upon earth here at the Arch Rock Viewpoint.

Oregon coast

Our next stop was at Gold Beach.

Caroline Wise flying her kite on the Oregon Coast

Caroline was adamant that she’d get value out of this kite and again had it out, trying to have to take hold of the sky.

Kite over the Oregon coast

Success in getting the kite into its rightful place high above us, weaving in and out of the clouds and sending it to this patch of blue sky.

Port Orford, Oregon

A blustery ocean on a fall day in Port Orford, Oregon. This would become our favorite viewing spot to stop and watch the ocean on stormy days.

Caroline Wise at Port Orford, Oregon

The wind blows hard here, and in the years to come, we will see much worse but will always be enchanted with this place along the sea.

Cranberry bog off the Oregon coast

On the way to Coos Bay, we spot a cranberry bog. Our inner nerds are in a state of astonishment.

Cranberries in a bog on the Oregon Coast

Real cranberries in the wild.

Coos Bay, Oregon

Coos Bay, where they are still moving lumber over riverways.

Heceta Head Lighthouse in Florence, Oregon

Heceta Head Lighthouse here in Florence, Oregon.

Sealines Nautical Shop in Seal Rock, Oregon

In its heyday, this was the Sealines Nautical Shop next to the ocean between Florence and Yachats. It is long gone as I write this and sorely missed. We never miss an opportunity to stop by for a moment of nostalgia.

North Fork Yachats covered bridge in Yachats, Oregon

From the town of Yachats, you head up the Yachats River Road to Route 805; up there, you’ll find the North Fork Yachats Covered Bridge.

Forest along the Yachats River in Yachats, Oregon

The drive out and back through the forest along the Yachats River is worthy of leaving the coast. If only there was good work out on the coast, we’d move up here in a second.

Seal Rock, Oregon

Stopped at Seal Rock to check out some dramatic surf and enjoy the rain wearing the dorkiest rain gear we’ve ever owned. It is so embarrassing I’m not even posting the selfie of us because we just look too stupid.

Newport Aquarium Village, Oregon

We needed a little kitsch to go with our nature, so we stopped in at the Newport Aquarium Village and visited the Pirate’s Plunder shop. Bought some glass float in netting kind of shnickshnack thing, got to support the local economy. We still had quite a few miles to go and a couple of hours to get there. Tonight’s lodging was another cozy yurt at Nehalem Bay State Park.

Oregon Coast – Day 1

Sunrise in central California

This trip started yesterday at 2:30 p.m. and had us leaving Arizona via Kingman on our way to Tulare, California, north of Bakersfield, for an overnight at Budget Inn for the cheapo price of only $39.95. Yesterday got us 587 miles closer to our ultimate destination, and because we weren’t flying, we didn’t need to contend with Thanksgiving-style jammed airports.

We were up and going well before sunrise at 5:45 a.m. this morning. The above photo of the rising sun was taken at a gas stop around 7:00 after we’d merged onto Interstate 5 and visually and olfactorily encountered our first feedlot of cows.

Pigs in Red Bluff, California

Four hours later and we have moved from cows to pigs here in Red Bluff, California, which is about 200 miles north of San Francisco already. We are making great time.

Mount Shasta in the distance, Northern California

We are somewhere in Northern California. That’s Mount Shasta in the distance.

Deer next to the road in Northern California

Suckers for wildlife, farm life, and life in general, we’ll stop to look at anything that grabs our attention. Nearly every time I spot an animal next to the road staring at us, I can’t help but think of the comic strip The Far Side where a bunch of cows are standing up talking until a car approaches.

Moss growing on trees in Northern California

You don’t see many ferns or moss growing on cactus in the desert. This is serious eye candy for desert dwellers.

Swains Flat Outpost in Humboldt County, California

Nothing better than stopping at a roadside funky joint to replenish our energy. Sadly, here in Humboldt County, famous for its weed, there is none of that to be found. Honestly, though, we wouldn’t even consider getting stoned out here on these trips as, first of all, we are driving long distances, and secondly, nature gets us high enough.

Redwoods in the Humboldt Redwoods State Park in Northern California

How lucky people are to be able to just drive along beautiful winding roads that snake their way through groves of redwoods.

Murals in Eureka, California

These murals and many more are some of the endearing qualities should you find yourself in Eureka, California. The junkies, on the other hand, suck.

Clam Beach in McKinleyville, California

First stop at the ocean on this road trip. We are at Clam Beach in McKinleyville, California. Have I shared with you that we love oceans, rivers, lakes, and waterways of all sorts?

Surf bubbles at Clam Beach in McKinleyville, California

Psychedelic surf bubbles at Clam Beach.

Stone Lagoon, California

Foggy and mysterious Stone Lagoon, California. Just prior to this, we saw the grazing herd of Roosevelt Elk, but the photo was kind of meh.

Redwoods National Park in Northern California

Driving through Redwoods National Park at dusk does not make for conducive conditions for the photography of already dark forests.

Redwoods National Park in Northern California

I found a bit of a clearing that was still receiving just enough light that I was able to capture at least one reasonable photo of some young coastal redwoods. It’s strange to consider that this was the scene some 225 million years ago over in Arizona near Holbrook and the Petrified Forest National Park.

Pacific coast early evening

I can’t recall exactly where this was, nor do we have a note that hints at it, but from the time the photo was shot, I’d guess we were still in California just south of the Oregon border, which would imply that this is Crescent City.

Caroline Wise in a yurt at Harris Beach State Park in Brookings, Oregon

Our first yurt visit ever and our first time on the Oregon coast. Our yurt is at Harris Beach State Park in North Brookings, Oregon. Our impression is that we LOVE YURTS!!! Tomorrow, we’ll get our first impressions of the coast as we travel north.

Tonto National Monument

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Tonto National Monument in Arizona

Checking things off the to-do list, like visiting Tonto National Monument. So many places close to home that we keep thinking we’ll visit, and they just keep getting put off; well, these cliff dwellings are now about to be put in the done column. Something to consider about your visit here, the monument is only open from November through April due to the high temperatures we experience in the summer months; reservations are also required.

Tonto National Monument in Arizona

The Salado people occupied these lands along the Salt River Valley from the 13th to the 15th century. Little is known about them or why exactly they left the area; they are an enigma like many of the cultures that might have risen out of the Anasazi of the southwest.

Tonto National Monument in Arizona

The Salado people built homes that were like pueblos found northeast of here from the Mogollon people, while their Hohokam neighbors were busy building pit houses.

Tonto National Monument in Arizona

For over 500 years, these abandoned ruins told a mystery that hinted that people had lived here, but who? While today we know who they were, did the Native Americans who traveled these lands always know? Discounting oral traditions might be one of the dominant European culture’s larger mistakes.

Tonto National Monument in Arizona

There is a very good article about the Salado over on a website written by Jet Middaugh that you can read by clicking here.

Roosevelt Lake at Tonto National Monument in Arizona

That’s Roosevelt Lake in the distance, which is formed by the backed-up waters of the Salt River. The dam that is holding back the river was built between 1906 and 1911. The drive from the dam to Phoenix follows an old dirt road known as the Apache Trail and is well worth it.

Tonto National Monument in Arizona

The pottery that the Salado people made is one of the significant contributing factors that blur their origins as it was considerably different than the pottery of surrounding groups. If you are lucky, maybe you, too, will see a rare shard of their handiwork.

Tonto National Monument in Arizona

It’s a beautiful walk up and back to the cliff dwellings; I’d like to recommend you bring sunblock and a hat even in winter.

Los Angeles Day Trip

Olvera Street is the original heart of Los Angeles, California

Who’s dumb enough to drive 11 hours round trip to spend just five hours in a place? We are. It’s Sunday, Jay’s only day off, so we take advantage of it and speed off to southern California. Our first stop is at Olvera Street which is part of the El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historic Monument that is considered to be the birthplace of Los Angeles. The narrow passages, old buildings, colorful goods, and tastes of the Mexican heritage that permeates this corner of L.A. should be visited by everyone at least once, preferably a few times.

Jay Patel at La Brea Tar Pits in Los Angeles, California

Our brief excursion out of the desert continues with a drive across L.A. with a stop at the La Brea Tar Pits for Jay to get a smell and a look at this gooey tourist attraction.

Oki Dog in Los Angeles, California

Off to Oki Dog with Jay, trying a vegetarian burrito that he shares with Caroline while I opt for the real deal and get a pastrami burrito that I attempt to finish by myself, but it doesn’t work.

Jay Patel on Hollywood Blvd Walk of Fame in Los Angeles, California

On to Hollywood Boulevard so he could visit the Walk of Fame and get a sense of the role, the film industry plays in this part of America.

Caroline Wise at Santa Monica Beach in Southern California

On a quiet day at the beach because although it is beautiful out here, nobody who lives here other than the surfers and very young kids want to go to the beach and get in the water. The only thing that stops Caroline from getting in is if the ice is too thick to step through; otherwise, I don’t believe she’ll ever pass up the opportunity to feel the cool water on her feet and the sand running through her toes.

Jay Patel at Santa Monica Beach in Southern California

Jay came to America to learn how to fly. Next year, he’ll be leaving the United States, but before he departs, Caroline and I are doing our best to make sure he leaves with some memories that were had on the ground across America other than those related to flight school and the greater Phoenix area. Jay toyed with the surf for nearly a half-hour before mustering the fortitude to allow himself to brag that he was, in fact, “in” the Pacific Ocean.

Jay Patel at Santa Monica Beach in Southern California

When we left Arizona this morning before dawn, there was no plan. No plan to visit the ocean or exactly what we’d do; we were just going to California because we could. Now Jay is drenched head to toe with nothing to change into nor a towel in sight to sit on, so it goes.

Jay Patel, Caroline Wise, and John Wise at Santa Monica Beach in Southern California

It will be nearly 5:00 p.m. when we leave and midnight when we get home (time zone change at the Arizona / California border), but that’s a small price to pay for building lasting crazy memories.