Oregon Coast – Day 5

Monterey Bay California at sunrise

A vacation for Caroline and I can never be reduced to a single day, hour, or moment. It is the collection of all moments of every hour and each day seen as a tapestry of experience that helps define the journey. Maybe because I focus on the nicer photos I’ve captured of the trip, it’s easier to remember the brilliant times out in America instead of the random ugly moments that have certainly occurred. Other than the travel book industry focusing on hard times out on the road and the evening news that requires tragedy to be the center of attention, we do not and hopefully never will focus on the small and slightly aggravating instances when weirdness happens. Instead, we focus on the sunrise and pinch ourselves that even though we might race around on these jaunts into far away places, often we seem to be at the right place at the right moment and are rewarded with scenes such as this sunrise over Monterey Bay, California.

Cannery Row in Monterey Bay, California

By this time, we’ve lost count of how many times we’ve visited Monterey Bay, but what I do know is that it was back in January 1992 that Caroline Engelhardt (we were just dating then) made her first visit to America with me and it was right near here that she took her first good look at the Pacific Ocean.

Monarch Butterfly at Pacific Grove, California

Finally timed our visit correctly with the migration of the monarch butterflies wintering over in Pacific Grove.

Central Valley in California

Out of the coastal range and into Salinas Valley near Soledad.

Route 146 to Pinnacles National Park, California

On the road to visit our next national park.

Caroline Wise at Pinnacles National Park in California

Look way down at the bottom of the photo for tiny little Caroline to better understand the scale of that boulder at Pinnacles National Park in California.

Canyon in Pinnacles National Park, California

The canyons and rock spires are amazing at this national park. Sadly, we will not be able to stay long as we still have 10 hours and 650 miles left to drive before getting home.

Pinnacles National Park, California

On the way back to our car in Pinnacles National Park.

Caroline Wise at Soledad Mission in California

My chicken feeding another chicken at Soledad Mission.

Yellow rose at Soledad Mission in California

A perfect yellow rose at Soledad Mission.

San Miguel Mission in California

Remember what I said about how much time we’d need to drive home? Well, we are still relatively young….a little exhaustion never hurt anyone. We had just arrived at San Miguel Mission and had to stop because it was right there on the way home anyway.

San Miguel Mission in California

That’s an early television on the left prior to the electrified version arriving. Back then, people would place a circular or rectangular frame next to the wall and stare at it while telling stories. To the right of that is a spinning wheel for turning fibers into yarn, and behind that is a broken-down loom for weaving that yarn into cloth. You might also notice the floor is uneven and made of stone, along with a fireplace to warm this area; this is because back in 1797, when the mission was founded, this was the way things were done.

San Miguel Mission in California

Twenty-one days after our visit a 6.6 magnitude earthquake hit the San Simeon area that was strong enough to cause serious damage here at the mission about 30 miles away. The church seen here was closed for the next six years for repairs.

San Miguel Mission in California

Mission bells like these at San Miguel are one of the iconic images of the entire chain of 21 missions across California.

San Miguel Mission in California

Lucky for all of us, California and the Catholic Church have been caring for these historic sites that stretch from San Diego in the south to San Francisco in the north.

Red Cedar Vineyard fountain in Shandon, California

In a landscape of brown, tan, and blue, this fountain at the Red Cedar Vineyard, flowing with purple water, demanded we pull over and snap a picture. This would be the last stop for photos as we still had 580 miles to drive home, and it was already 3:30 p.m., putting us home after midnight.

Oregon Coast – Day 4

Fishing in Elk River north of Port Orford, Oregon

It was still dark when we left this morning, but an hour later, it was looking wonderful to us. Living in the Arizona desert gives us a special appreciation for the clouds, fog, and drizzle that make a day feel romantic and offer one more reason to snuggle and indulge in hot drinks. The landscape here is courtesy of the Elk River just north of Port Orford, Oregon.

South Oregon Coast

Taking time for an overlook at Port Orford Heads State Park, cementing our love of this rugged coast.

Battle Rock Bay at Port Orford, Oregon

Fishing boats in Battle Rock Bay at Port Orford, Oregon.

Near Gold Beach, Oregon

Meyers Beach North near Gold Beach, Oregon.

Caroline Wise and John Wise Dutch Brothers Coffee in Brookings, Oregon

Our very first cup of Dutch Bros. Coffee ever in Brookings, Oregon. Over the coming years, we would stop again and again at various Dutch Bros. along the coast and collect way too many loyalty cards that we would always forget to bring on subsequent trips. Again and again, we would tell the baristas how much we loved their coffee and the funky, happy people who worked these roadside drive-thru coffee shops that were always open in the wee hours until late at night, well after the hour that coffee shops close in Arizona. We also never forgot to mention we were from Arizona, so when Dutch Bros. started opening outside of Oregon and chose Phoenix as one of their markets, we couldn’t help but think we played some small role in that decision.

Battery Point Lighthouse in Crescent City, California

Another sight we will always try to make time for are lighthouses. This one is at Battery Park in Crescent City, California. Take note to visit the Battery Point Lighthouse.

Driftwood on Enderts Beach in Crescent City, California

I took a few photographs of driftwood, but this root ball from a redwood was one of the most amazing natural sculptures I’ve yet seen washed up on a beach. We are at Enderts Beach in Crescent City, California.

Caroline Wise on Enderts Beach in Crescent City, California

Caroline walks along Enderts Beach collecting souvenirs.

Berry's along the trail to Enderts Beach in Crescent City, California

If we find berries along the trail, we eat those berries unless they are poisonous, and then we just admire them, take their picture, and leave them alone.

Fall colors on a random leaf in California

The colors of fall found near the beach in northern California.

Redwoods in California

Redwoods National Park.

Lady Bird Johnson Grove of Redwoods in California

Took some time to stretch our legs in the Lady Bird Johnson Grove at Redwoods National Park.

Black bulgar fungi growing on a tree in Northern California

Black Bulgar fungi are also known as Bachelor’s Buttons growing here on a fallen dead hardwood tree. This was the end of our explorations for the day as the long Thanksgiving day weekend was coming to an end, and we needed to get as far south as possible so we could drive back to Phoenix tomorrow. With a few windy roads, fog, and the traffic around San Francisco, we now had little time to spare. We finally pulled into a motel in Watsonville, California, at 11:00 p.m. We’ll ask for a 6:00 wake-up call.

Oregon Coast – Day 3

Yurt at Nehalem Bay State Park in Oregon

It’s raining when we wake during the night, but listening to the rain patter on our canvas yurt was like the sound of a perfect lullaby. We only booked two nights in yurts on this first exploration of the Oregon Coast and now wish we had one more night in a yurt before heading back to Phoenix. We’ve already decided that we will have to return again and again, and as often as we can, we’ll make an effort to stay in a yurt.

Dawn on the Oregon coast

Because it has been our goal to see the coast from bottom to top and back to bottom during our stay out here, it’s imperative that we rise with first light. We know that we’ll miss stuff as we drive at night, but hope that on the way back, we’ll catch some of what we missed. Also, due to the relatively short amount of time we have up here, we must curtail some of the stops for photos, or we’d get nowhere. As it is, I’m going to be posting quite a few images to accompany this day because so many of these images stood out to us and cut an indelible impression in our imaginations forming some memories we hope to carry our entire lives.

On the beach shortly after dawn on a foggy day on the coast of Oregon

Our first real walk of the day was at Arcadia Beach. The dampness, color, fog, and sound of the crashing waves all work to make for perfect scenery for both Caroline and me.

Caroline Wise standing in the surf on the Oregon coast

The cold will not deter Caroline from doffing her shoes and rolling up her pants (that rarely helps because she so frequently gets caught by the wave she didn’t see) to step into the Pacific for that picture of her standing in water. Some day, I will have to collect all the images from coast to coast we’ve shot of her standing in a lake, river, ocean, or creek and post a blog entry just about her visits to America’s waterways.

Oregon Coast

The contrast between the wild ocean and wind-swept golden grass is a sight for us to remember. Click the image for a larger view of the panorama, or click here.

Two slugs in love on the Oregon coast

Two slugs in love on the coast of Oregon reminds Caroline and me of us!

Fort Clatsop Lewis and Clark National Historic Park in Astoria, Oregon

Lewis and Clark slept here. Well, not really right here, as this is a recreation, but this site marks the end of their journey across the western territories to the Pacific. We are at Fort Clatsop – Lewis and Clark National Historical Park in Astoria, Oregon, near the mouth of the Columbia River.

Fort Clatsop in Astoria, Oregon

It’s another world out here at Fort Clatsop, with the weather lending to the sense of what a cold, wet day might have been like for Lewis and Clark.

Crossing into Washington from Oregon over the Columbia River in Astoria

Crossing from Astoria, Oregon, into Washington over the Columbia River.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Lewis and Clark Trail in Washington on the Columbia River

We went to Washington for bragging rights, so this trip on the Oregon coast would include visits to California and Washington too.

Looking south from Washington to Oregon

Looking back south to some dark, harsh weather over in Oregon while we head into clearer skies in Washington…

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the Welcome to Washington state sign

…things were delightful. Sure, this selfie is similar to the one just two photos ago, but that one was to commemorate being on another part of the Lewis and Clark Trail, and this one is to prove we were in Washington on this trip.

Cape Disappointment Lighthouse in Southern Washington

Cape Disappointment in southern Washington at the mouth of the Columbia River. We’ve never visited this lighthouse as of me writing this blog entry in 2018 (takes note to rectify this).

Fort Stevens State Park in Oregon

We did the accelerated 15-minute tour of Fort Stevens State Park and only afterward learned we missed an amazing old shipwreck on the beach, the Peter Iredale.

Cannon Beach, Oregon

Moving south again, we stopped to visit the Haystack Rock at Cannon Beach in Oregon. This turns out to be a favorite place for long walks along the ocean and will remain so for years to come.

Fishing on the Oregon coast

A couple of fishermen heading in.

Tillamook Cheese Factory Tour in Tillamook, Oregon

Just enough time to squeeze in a quick tour of the Tillamook Cheese Factory. While we enjoyed our brief tour, I have the feeling this place would leave many a French person feeling a bit disgusted by it all.

Tillamook Cheese Factory ice cream shop in Tillamook, Oregon

While the people of the Netherlands might also balk at our cheese-making skills here in America (except for those women of Cowgirl Creamery in Pt. Reyes, California), they would be pacified by a taste of Tillamook Marionberry Pie ice cream. This ice cream shop is part of the Tillamook Cheese Factory.

Blue Heron French Cheese Company in Tillamook, Oregon

Neither Caroline nor I remember if we were able to visit the Blue Heron French Cheese Company on this first visit to the coast. I have a vague memory it was closed by the time we reached the place, but who knows? What I do know is that we ultimately did visit here on a subsequent trip and were introduced to smoked brie and have been coming back ever since just for it.

Blue Heron French Cheese Company in Tillamook, Oregon

The colors and contrast of the orange, rust, black, woods, grass, moss in the windows, and foggy background all worked to make this a favorite of mine.

Caroline Wise stepping into the ocean in Lincoln City, Oregon

One more time, stepping into the ocean before darkness overtakes the day. What I said earlier about Caroline rolling up her pant legs, look at her right leg for proof that she could do better.

We stayed at the Bayshore Motel in Coos Bay for only $34 and dined at Abby’s Legendary Pizza. Besides Cannon Beach, we find that there are not a lot of fine dining options on the Oregon Coast.

Oregon Coast – Day 2

Yurt at Harris Beach State Park in Brookings, Oregon

This is the day that we officially fell in love with the Oregon Coast. It is the morning after our first amazing night in a yurt at Harris Beach State Park. We were in this unit, the Winchuck.

Caroline Wise trying to fly a kite on Harris Beach in Oregon

Caroline is trying her best to get this kite aloft and maybe she was a little successful, but not what she needed to feel it. The rock in the background is Goat Island here at Harris Beach.

Looking north at Harris Beach in Oregon

Looking north from the parking lot of Harris Beach.

Coos Bay, Oregon

For a moment, we had a glimmer of sunlight fall upon earth here at the Arch Rock Viewpoint.

Oregon coast

Our next stop was at Gold Beach.

Caroline Wise flying her kite on the Oregon Coast

Caroline was adamant that she’d get value out of this kite and again had it out, trying to have to take hold of the sky.

Kite over the Oregon coast

Success in getting the kite into its rightful place high above us, weaving in and out of the clouds and sending it to this patch of blue sky.

Port Orford, Oregon

A blustery ocean on a fall day in Port Orford, Oregon. This would become our favorite viewing spot to stop and watch the ocean on stormy days.

Caroline Wise at Port Orford, Oregon

The wind blows hard here, and in the years to come, we will see much worse but will always be enchanted with this place along the sea.

Cranberry bog off the Oregon coast

On the way to Coos Bay, we spot a cranberry bog. Our inner nerds are in a state of astonishment.

Cranberries in a bog on the Oregon Coast

Real cranberries in the wild.

Coos Bay, Oregon

Coos Bay, where they are still moving lumber over riverways.

Heceta Head Lighthouse in Florence, Oregon

Heceta Head Lighthouse here in Florence, Oregon.

Sealines Nautical Shop in Seal Rock, Oregon

In its heyday, this was the Sealines Nautical Shop next to the ocean between Florence and Yachats. It is long gone as I write this and sorely missed. We never miss an opportunity to stop by for a moment of nostalgia.

North Fork Yachats covered bridge in Yachats, Oregon

From the town of Yachats, you head up the Yachats River Road to Route 805; up there, you’ll find the North Fork Yachats Covered Bridge.

Forest along the Yachats River in Yachats, Oregon

The drive out and back through the forest along the Yachats River is worthy of leaving the coast. If only there was good work out on the coast, we’d move up here in a second.

Seal Rock, Oregon

Stopped at Seal Rock to check out some dramatic surf and enjoy the rain wearing the dorkiest rain gear we’ve ever owned. It is so embarrassing I’m not even posting the selfie of us because we just look too stupid.

Newport Aquarium Village, Oregon

We needed a little kitsch to go with our nature, so we stopped in at the Newport Aquarium Village and visited the Pirate’s Plunder shop. Bought some glass float in netting kind of shnickshnack thing, got to support the local economy. We still had quite a few miles to go and a couple of hours to get there. Tonight’s lodging was another cozy yurt at Nehalem Bay State Park.

Oregon Coast – Day 1

Sunrise in central California

This trip started yesterday at 2:30 p.m. and had us leaving Arizona via Kingman on our way to Tulare, California, north of Bakersfield, for an overnight at Budget Inn for the cheapo price of only $39.95. Yesterday got us 587 miles closer to our ultimate destination, and because we weren’t flying, we didn’t need to contend with Thanksgiving-style jammed airports.

We were up and going well before sunrise at 5:45 a.m. this morning. The above photo of the rising sun was taken at a gas stop around 7:00 after we’d merged onto Interstate 5 and visually and olfactorily encountered our first feedlot of cows.

Pigs in Red Bluff, California

Four hours later and we have moved from cows to pigs here in Red Bluff, California, which is about 200 miles north of San Francisco already. We are making great time.

Mount Shasta in the distance, Northern California

We are somewhere in Northern California. That’s Mount Shasta in the distance.

Deer next to the road in Northern California

Suckers for wildlife, farm life, and life in general, we’ll stop to look at anything that grabs our attention. Nearly every time I spot an animal next to the road staring at us, I can’t help but think of the comic strip The Far Side where a bunch of cows are standing up talking until a car approaches.

Moss growing on trees in Northern California

You don’t see many ferns or moss growing on cactus in the desert. This is serious eye candy for desert dwellers.

Swains Flat Outpost in Humboldt County, California

Nothing better than stopping at a roadside funky joint to replenish our energy. Sadly, here in Humboldt County, famous for its weed, there is none of that to be found. Honestly, though, we wouldn’t even consider getting stoned out here on these trips as, first of all, we are driving long distances, and secondly, nature gets us high enough.

Redwoods in the Humboldt Redwoods State Park in Northern California

How lucky people are to be able to just drive along beautiful winding roads that snake their way through groves of redwoods.

Murals in Eureka, California

These murals and many more are some of the endearing qualities should you find yourself in Eureka, California. The junkies, on the other hand, suck.

Clam Beach in McKinleyville, California

First stop at the ocean on this road trip. We are at Clam Beach in McKinleyville, California. Have I shared with you that we love oceans, rivers, lakes, and waterways of all sorts?

Surf bubbles at Clam Beach in McKinleyville, California

Psychedelic surf bubbles at Clam Beach.

Stone Lagoon, California

Foggy and mysterious Stone Lagoon, California. Just prior to this, we saw the grazing herd of Roosevelt Elk, but the photo was kind of meh.

Redwoods National Park in Northern California

Driving through Redwoods National Park at dusk does not make for conducive conditions for the photography of already dark forests.

Redwoods National Park in Northern California

I found a bit of a clearing that was still receiving just enough light that I was able to capture at least one reasonable photo of some young coastal redwoods. It’s strange to consider that this was the scene some 225 million years ago over in Arizona near Holbrook and the Petrified Forest National Park.

Pacific coast early evening

I can’t recall exactly where this was, nor do we have a note that hints at it, but from the time the photo was shot, I’d guess we were still in California just south of the Oregon border, which would imply that this is Crescent City.

Caroline Wise in a yurt at Harris Beach State Park in Brookings, Oregon

Our first yurt visit ever and our first time on the Oregon coast. Our yurt is at Harris Beach State Park in North Brookings, Oregon. Our impression is that we LOVE YURTS!!! Tomorrow, we’ll get our first impressions of the coast as we travel north.