Best of Intentions

Verde River in Camp Verde, Arizona

Following the break of day, a walk around the block, breakfast at home, and finally a coffee on our way to the freeway, we leave under glorious skies for an overnight trip to Flagstaff, Arizona. We measured taking the western scenic route and the eastern scenic route and finally opted to take the middle way, which is Highway 17, a.k.a. the Black Canyon Freeway. The desert out of Phoenix was lush, which is testimony to the active monsoon season we’ve been having, but as is the story with freeways, pulling over for photos can be difficult. Passing through Camp Verde and crossing a muddy river, I jumped off the next exit to double back for a closer view of the Verde River. What this photo does not convey is the noisy chorus of grasshoppers and cicadas and the lively ballet of dragonflies and bumblebees entertaining us for a few minutes.

Sedona, Arizona

Unable to stick to the plan of going directly to our destination, we felt Highway 179 beckoning us to drive through Sedona before picking up Oak Creek Canyon en route to Flagstaff, so why not?

Sedona, Arizona

That’s Bell Rock, and if you look closely, maybe you can see the vortex streaming out of the center of the rock; well, that is if you can see it through my aura that’s spilling into the photo.

Rain in Oak Creek Canyon Sedona, Arizona

Great job, John; make fun of the kooks of Sedona and their $45 aura photographs, crystals, vortex skinny dipping, and yoga in a Pink Jeep while off-road, and it’ll rain so hard on you that you have to pull over. This may not look like a torrential downpour, but I assure you that while driving, we couldn’t see our phones anymore as we had to seriously concentrate on the wet road.

Oak Creek Canyon Sedona, Arizona

Fortunately, Caroline brought a crystal with her, so we lit some patchouli incense, put on our sandals, and smoked a joint before saying a prayer to Lord Ganesh. Before we knew it, the rains stopped, and we were able to get stuck for nearly 30 minutes waiting for backed-up traffic to pass through a one-lane restriction on the road ahead. Maybe we should have made obeisance to Jesus?

Proper Meat and Provisions in Flagstaff, Arizona

We finally arrived in Flagstaff starving as it took us over four hours to get here instead of the two hours as Google thought. I don’t know how this was Caroline’s fault, but that doesn’t begin to matter as our secret to this happy marriage is that everything is her fault, so we’ll just go with that. No matter by now either, as not only have we arrived in this mountain town, we are at Proper Meat and Provisions for lunch. Another patty melt, pastrami and green chili sandwich, along with chicharrones and we squeezed in between all the young people traveling with old people. The couple at our shared table asked if we, too, were dropping off a young college student. Nope, but this explains the high price for hotels this weekend and all the traffic on the way up.

Flagstaff, Arizona

Stuffed and I really mean stuffed, we needed to walk off some of the gluttony, but four raindrops persuaded us to dip for shelter in order to avoid melting.

Caroline Wise at Late For The Train in Flagstaff, Arizona

Where else but a coffee shop should we hide from the tempest raging outside? Should you think I’m talking of those four raindrops, I mean the torrents of students introducing other students to the downtown area of Flagstaff, the parents, and siblings of the older brother/sister/pronoun of choice who is not even trying not to look disaffected and bored with the chaperones and all these dogs everywhere. Dogs, are they readying themselves for university, too?

No, the dogs are part of a Barks and Brews event described as a “Doggie Pub Crawl.” From a Flagstaff website:

Limited Early Bird Tickets are available for $50! Regular tickets and day-of tickets will be $60. Tickets include a souvenir tasting glass, doggie water bowl & bandanna, lanyard, and tasting pass good for two beer tastings from several local breweries, including Beaver Street, Dark Sky, Grand Canyon, Historic, Lumberyard, Mother Road, Wanderlust, and Sweetwater Brewing!

Proceeds go to charity.

That’s it; we are bailing out on the idea of spending the night. Our idea of grabbing a crap motel on the edge of town has been dashed as those places knowing a good thing when they sense it, have all raised their prices from the $55 we budgeted (yep, that’s how cheap we can be) to the sky-high price of almost $100.

But now we know that Oak Creek Canyon is not an option to go home, and the 17 South is under construction and limited to one lane, so we’ll be trying the Lake Mary Road, wondering what shenanigans the gods of karmic charm have in store for us.

There we were, packing up to make our way to the car, when some god or other smote us for talking of their potential wrath and opened the sky with a downpour. Not four little drops this time, we’re talking soaked before we ever get a dozen feet away from the front door of Late for the Train Coffee Shop, that’s the place name of where we’ve been sitting, sipping, sewing, and writing.

Driving south on Lake Mary's Road in Arizona

Under a light drizzle, thunder and lightning, and even a faint rainbow, we got to our car and bailed out of Flagstaff, leaving the dark clouds behind us.

Driving south on Lake Mary's Road in Arizona

But this being a John and Caroline adventure, we had to stop and smell the sunflowers. Caroline even grabbed a handful to bring home with us, and while this is jumping ahead, they didn’t look good by the time we got there, but by morning, they’d sprung back to life and brought smiles to our faces, so that was wonderful.

Driving south on Lake Mary's Road in Arizona

That’s Flagstaff out in the center of this photo, and while I might be sharing too many photos that are slightly different with the sunlit grasses, bits of blue sky, and heavy dark clouds pouring out rain, we were so enchanted by the contrasts that I couldn’t help but take a few.

Caroline Wise and John Wise driving south on Lake Mary's Road in Arizona

Speaking of smiling faces.

Driving south on Lake Mary's Road in Arizona

Squint, and you might see the sliver of Mormon Lake that appears to be quickly disappearing.

Driving south on Lake Mary's Road in Arizona

While hints of monsoon were always nearby, we made it to Payson, where we stopped for dinner as we knew we’d not be back in Phoenix before 8:00, and being the old people we are now, eating that late doesn’t much work very well for us. Strange thing, this aging process, and while we’re not even 60 yet, we’ve heard plenty from the 70- and 80-year-olds how we’re still young, but to our 20- to 40-year-old selves, we grow ever more familiar with the changes that come with adding on the days, months, and years that move us closer to old. I’d bet a dollar when we are sitting here lamenting the changes of having reached 75 that some nearby 90-year-old will tell us just how young we still are, which means I think we should just keep looking to the clouds and smiling.

First Ever Digital Group Selfie

Uwe Schmidt, John Wise, Caroline Wise, and Olaf Finkbeiner in Frankfurt, Germany around 1990

Back in December of 2005, the first year I was blogging, I posted a scan of a black and white printout of this photo. I told the story of how the digital file was long gone, lost to the age of the Commodore Amiga and the passage of time. The image was captured in 1990 using a method that the digitizer wasn’t really intended for, by focusing on living things that might move during the capture process. Because there was no way possible to manually turn the color wheel to red, green, and blue (which allowed the digitizer to capture each color channel separately) between capturing shots while we remained frozen in time, we picked one of the filter colors and ended up with a black-and-white image. We printed it with a dot matrix printer and somehow that piece of paper stayed with Caroline and me during our move from Germany and then survived 1o more years in the United States. Now here we are, 30 years after we took our very first digital selfie and today Olaf Finkbeiner (the guy on the right) sent me a copy in color. While Caroline never had purple hair, I think this is simply amazing. On the left is Uwe Schmidt (Atom™), then I in the background, Caroline, and of course Olaf. The skull is named Anton and he still resides with my mother-in-law Jutta who has agreed to take him to her grave when she passes. I cannot forget to give credit to Jo Lincke for putting in the work using Photoshop’s Neural filter to help restore such a beautiful memory. And while I cannot be certain, I can at least confidently claim that this is probably the very first digital group selfie ever taken!

Filling The Space Between

Cumbres & Toltec Steam Train running from Antonito, Colorado to Chama, New Mexico

How often does the average person tend to provide specific details regarding events that occurred more than a dozen years ago? This excavation of my own past has been my main task for the past few weeks as I reworked 30 old blog posts pertaining to travels taken from May 15, 2009, through October 17 of the same year.

Jessica Aldridge the killer crab about to pop the head off innocent tourist John Wise at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St. Michaels, Maryland

I surely have explained elsewhere on my blog (or on the very indexes I’ve been creating to come up with a comprehensive list of all of our travels) that I’m repairing posts that were thin on photos and details when they were originally created. You see, back in the old days, bandwidth was at a premium, and nobody had time to wait for even five photos to download, so my posts reflected those limits. Consequently, with 1 to 3 photos per travel day, I would have compressed the events of the day into the 3 to 5 paragraphs that accompanied the images.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt visiting the Statue of Liberty in New York

So, after our last adventure that saw us up in Williams, Arizona, for a weekend of hiking at the end of July and the fast-approaching date of Caroline’s bunionectomy, I turned my attention not just to caring for my invalid wife but also to my travel index. This index presents a bit of a challenge, though, because to select a single photo to represent a specific day, I need to be certain that I have the best one. All too often, my heart sinks when I review an old post and see its sole image or maybe the 2 or 3 that are there. Sure enough, I checked the photo directory of that date, and when I saw that I shot anywhere from 75 up to 1,000 photos, I groaned under the weight that there was a lot of visual information I had neglected.

Barber Chair at Eastern State Penitentiary in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

I end up readjusting the old photos that accompanied the original posting and then get busy adding a bunch more. Regarding the 30 posts I worked on in the past few weeks, I ended up adding more than 600 photos from the archive, so we now have a better visual representation of the events of those days. But I can’t just add a bunch of photos without some explanation/narrative that accompanies each new image. In some instances, there was enough information in the compressed paragraphs detailing the majority of the day that I could pull inspiration from, while in some situations, such as our visit to Eastern State Penitentiary in Philadelphia, I had a lot of writing that had to be cared for.

Caroline Wise on the Trail to Havasu Falls on the Havasupai Nation in Arizona

That’s what I’ve been working on, and like my previous attempts to make progress on this massive undertaking, I have to take a break from the tedium. There’s a risk I fall into compulsive frantic attention to this task that is taking far longer than I ever imagined. At this point in the index, I’m on day 677, which is a measure of each day that we traveled away from Phoenix, Arizona, since August 9, 1999, and the commercial advent of digital photography when we were able to easily start cataloging our travels. By the way, this index does not include day trips.

The U.S. Capitol building in Washington D.C.

Now, with about a couple of weeks before our next outing, I can turn my focus to other compulsive activities, such as some deeper reading and turning to my synth for some much-needed exploration.

All of the above photos were taken between May 15 and October 17, 2009. Over in the right column under “Other Pages,” you’ll find the links to the evolving index of “Our Travels.”

Going Out to Get Nowhere

Interstate 10 traveling west in Arizona

Just yesterday, we decided with certainty that we’d head out of Phoenix for an overnight somewhere in Arizona on Saturday morning. At the last minute, I worked out an itinerary on the map that would take us west towards the California border and then north. The little two-day jaunt would end in Flagstaff with another visit to Proper Meats + Provisions, where we recently enjoyed the greatest Patty Melt we’d ever had. So we packed up a small bag and got going.

Wickenburg Road out near Tonopah, Arizona

We should have left the freeway at 355th Avenue, but there was no exit, so we took the Wintersburg Road offramp and turned right and right again before reaching 355th Avenue where we needed to turn left off of Indian School Road to head north.

Wickenburg Road at Jackrabbit Wash in Arizona

After a few miles, our road curves and becomes Aguila Road. We were just going along when a horse trailer and Mustang that passed us while I was taking the previous photo were heading back the way they came. We thought this was strange and that maybe they’d forgotten something, or could this just be a coincidence of being a different horse trailer and Mustang? Obviously, something was glitching in the matrix. Then, not 2 minutes later, we learned that it was, in fact, them. They had decided that they weren’t going to attempt crossing this mess on the road. Something about the mud and debris flow didn’t smell right; it smelled downright awful. No matter, we turned around as there were other ways to get to where we were going.

Indian School Road in far west valley of Phoenix, Arizona

Instead of getting back on the 10 freeway, Caroline noticed that Indian School Road runs along the interstate until 411th Avenue, so we’ll take it just to keep our trek off of that ugly road. Hmmm, come to think about it, I had Caroline text me a message as we were leaving Phoenix regarding my utter disdain for our freeways. It read like this, “Freeways are like the average American, fat and bloated with generic franchised, gluttonous places to indulge our worst inclinations. There is nothing to see, no character, and the billboards, like people’s outward appearance, display slogans offering a peak in the height of one’s stupidity.”

Yeah, take that, you stupid ugly freeways with inconsiderate road-raging asshole drivers; we are opting to take the byways to places the mass of turds will never know on their way in a hurry to who knows what. We are the real elitists above the antics of conformity because we don’t travel the way idiots do…

Muddy intersection of Salome Highway and 491st Avenue west of Phoenix, Arizona

…Until we are the idiot. Transferring from the north side of Interstate 10 to the south side, we were able to pick up Indian School Road again, and well, everyone knows that Indian School Road is a big paved affair, so we were going to skip more freeway and enjoy the peace and quiet of a truly rural drive while everyone else zips along lightning speed. Little did we know that only a few miles on the pavement would end, but things looked manageable, so we soldiered on. We knew that some miles down the road, just south of I-10, Indian School intersects with Salome Road, which is exactly the road we want that will bring us to Eagle Eye Road and, subsequently, Aguila. There would have been nothing much in Aguila to see, just some old ruins of motels possibly, and then we’d turn around back towards Wenden before hitting Hope, Bouse, and Parker. From the Colorado River, our plan was to drive over the dam coming back down through California to Vidal Junction up towards Needles, near where we’d cross back into Arizona for a drive up the Oatman Highway, a.k.a. Historic Route 66. There were other plans from that point on the road, but when we reached the intersection of Indian School and Salome and needed to turn right, this mud hole put an end to our road trip. We were defeated and hungry by now, so we turned around.

Caroline Wise reading from a Kindle in Phoenix, Arizona

We were driving back towards Phoenix. With an hour and a half before we’d reach home, Caroline broke out the Kindle to read us some more In Search of Lost Time by Marcel Proust. We are currently in the volume titled The Guermantes Way, which at the exact spot we are means we are 46% through this 1.2 million word book. By the time we reached Bethany Home and 16th Street where we shared an overpriced burger with garlic fries, we got to 47% of the book finished. As for the burger joint, Caroline also had a beer, I had nothing to drink, and our bill with a $5 tip came to $40. Maybe we would have been better off staying in to be everywhere within ourselves inexpensively than to have gone out to get nowhere. But on the plus side, we got to spend some quality time together in the car, so all in all, we had a great little adventure.

Das Boot

Caroline Wise with Das Boot in Phoenix, Arizona

Witness this woman experiencing sunlight for the first time in days. Not only that, but she’s making an appearance in Das Boot. No, not the famous 1981 German movie titled Das Boot featuring the smoldering actor Jürgen Prochnow (her words), but the giant black thing on her left foot. As you know from the previous post, Caroline recently had surgery to remove a bunion, and today was her post-op check-up and bandage change, where we got to see firsthand the incision site and the bruising across most of her foot.

X-ray of Caroline Wise's missing bunion in Phoenix, Arizona

Now, the bone needs to grow back together. While you can’t see it in this image, there’s a screw holding things together. The screw is in there because they had to cut the bone all the way through. I asked the doctor about the overhang of bone and the pyramidal shape on the right and he explained that the body will repair those as healing progresses. She’s so happy with the results so far that we made an appointment for December to take care of the right foot.

Horny Toed

Caroline Wise's foot has a bunion

My wife’s foot has (had) a horn. It protrudes like a giant barnacle off her left foot, just next to her big toe. This type of protrusion arrives with a cost, not one of magic ability, at the expense of something else; the cost is pain. The prominence that exists there is better known as a bunion, and she’s to the point that it must go.

The bunion, not to be confused with Paul Bunyan, is a kind of thorn that, as it presses into her shoes and hiking boots, is pushing against other foot bones, making things wonky. While Willy might enjoy things being Wonka(y), my wife is serious about walking, and being able to do so into the future means her foot parasite must be sacrificed to the surgeon gods.

So today (that having been August 4th), before the sun rises and after an anti-bacterial body wash, without food, coffee, or aspirin, we arrived at the surgery center at 5:30 a.m. for the moment the evil will be extricated, a piece of metal in the form of a screw will merge with her bones, and her 4 to 6 weeks of healing will all begin. To add some drama, a monsoon storm made an appearance and it was raining as we three (Jessica had come over from San Diego) pulled up to the facility entrance.

Of course, this means we are sacrificing no less than a couple of journeys that had been on the itinerary, but hopefully, by early September, even if it means we must go slow or use a knee-scooter, we’ll be back on the road. And if this all goes well, we’ll opt for her to have the right foot exorcised of its demon bunion while we’re still in the same insurance calendar year in order to save money for make-up adventures we’ll be denied while Caroline is an invalid.

X-ray of Caroline Wise's bunion in Phoenix, Arizona

Regarding recovery, a lap table was ordered last week, and I’ve given her a small handbell to summon me when her needs requires assistance because that’s just the kind of husband I am. I can only hope she doesn’t milk my generosity any more than is absolutely necessary. And about this poor-quality x-ray, we wanted a digital copy but had to photograph the doctor’s monitor in order to see what the bunion looked like pre-op.

Well, that was then, and this is now here on a Sunday afternoon three days after the surgery. Everything is great, at least in our view. Only one hydrocodone tablet was taken, and that was very late on Thursday evening; other than that, the discomfort has been absolutely manageable. Tomorrow, before lunch, we have a post-op appointment with her doctor, who will unwrap the bandages to inspect how things are progressing. So far, so good, and the little bell I supplied her never had to be rung once as I’ve been here for all of her major needs…except when I’m off at the coffee shop writing.