Auntie and Grandpa Going to Florida – Day 13

Roadside in Louisiana 2005

Natchitoches, Louisiana, and the end of notes from the trip. There’s nothing else I wrote about, so here I am nearly 15 years after I made this journey with Aunt Eleanor and Grandpa Herbert, both of whom have since passed away, and I need to come up with some kind of narrative that might flow with the previous 12 days that had copious notes.

To be honest, there’s not a lot left in my head about this leg, and what I posted in those other entries didn’t trigger some deep memories that I can harvest to fill this space. We were on the way home, but there were so many photos I wanted to share as we were obviously not rushing back to Phoenix. So now what?

Roadside in Louisiana 2005

Kind of like a traffic signal in the middle of nowhere; death shows up, and we come to a stop. Ten months after this trip across America’s southern states, my maternal grandfather passed away. He was the last surviving grandparent I had, and then a few years after that, in 2009, my great-aunt Eleanor died at the age of 97. Eleanor was Herbie’s older sister.

Roadside in Louisiana 2005

The memories of family that have moved on can, at times, be like a body of water in that they are there, but they might be somewhere just below the surface. Over time, much of that water will evaporate, and while it can fall back to earth, there is little likelihood that you’ll ever see it again. Like with water, there are places where memories run deeper, but without the proper craft, we may not know how to reach them.

This simile is how I feel I can best express myself today as I look inward, trying to remember who my relatives were during this time in their lives. The existential nature of being on a path to learning who we are doesn’t leave a lot of bandwidth for trying to know who others were and how they got there. They were more like fixtures of fully-formed selves that I simply couldn’t comprehend thinking they already had arrived at who they were – or did they? How often do we consider that the elderly are still becoming?

Roadside in Louisiana 2005

It’s simultaneously funny and tragic that the folly of our ignorance doesn’t allow us to see that the elderly, too, might be on a never-ending path of becoming and that curiosity could still be introducing them to things they don’t know. Instead of greater sharing across generations, we operate in distinct and separate universes where the age of experience draws a line between us while our youth or advanced age suggests there’s no chance the other could begin to relate to us.

Time is the road, we are the vehicle, and our evolving memories are the passengers. The paths we travel are ever-present, be they dirt traces that deliver the traders of goods, invisible skyways that fly people overhead, or trails that lead us on canyon hikes. What is not so easy to see or find are the memories of others who seem to rarely encounter each other at random intersections.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Our photos can act as great signposts that show us where we’ve been but it is only the words we commit to a surface of things that can exist beyond their otherwise short lives in our heads. Once written, they might allow others to know something about who we were and how we came to perceive things the way we did.

This idea speaks volumes to what we do and don’t do to exist beyond the time when our exhausted bodies cease being the vehicles that are responsible for allowing others to meet us on the highway of life. Trinkets, photos, pieces of old clothing, wedding bands, or various possessions cannot share the person we were or knew. Just as we have taken to leaving these mementos to those who have loved us, we fail to give them an intrinsic gift of that look within us while we are still breathing.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Telling of these travels in life and where our road into our own infinity was taking us is the only trail of crumbs we might be able to offer. An exercise of writing about how we got to the places we arrived at should be part of our everyday life, just as sleeping and eating are. I’m not saying just our literal travels and explorations of places we visited but telling the story of how we came to be who we are emotionally and intellectually when wandering in our minds.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Sadly, I feel that too many of us are long defunct after having abandoned the processes where we serve a human function aside from feeding the machine of commerce, parenthood, and the expectations of others who require our affirmation of their bland conformity. Only a few of us are out here to encounter the extraordinary and rare sights that bridge eras, epochs, cultures, and the very act of trying to know anything about something.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Does it matter that you might have but one more cow among the many grazing in the meadow? Who of us raises our head out of the tightly packed herd to say, here I am? It will be the cow that constructed a monument to bovine-ness, using its cloven hoof to sculpt an object of beauty that leaves us astonished at its feat we thought impossible.

We have to leave our story to others so they might be witnesses to the monument to ourselves, allowing them to better understand who and what we were. We focus on the geniuses, celebrities, and those ordained by taste-makers to be our cultural representatives, but that tells little of the ordinary and unexceptional cogs in the machine that goes about a life living in a pasture called the city.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Have you ever left your own pasture? Did you take the uncomfortable and bumpy road where your expectations of particular creature comforts failed to meet your desires? Trying new foods, sleeping in strange beds, adapting to different weather, and talking with others who seem to speak a foreign language due to their different frames of reference can be a challenge for almost everybody. But consider the risk of being the flea on the ass of the beast next to you in the field you have always lived in before asking in your later years if you experienced anything resembling real freedom?

Roadside in Texas 2005

The contentedness of staying in place is for cattle. We are humans meant to explore not just the physical world but the options of what we want to know and believe as we encounter those who might lend affirmation to a life of intellectual uncertainty. My family without me appreciating it when I was younger, were nomads having left Germany, moving around upstate New York, heading to Florida for a while, and finally ending up in Arizona. They weren’t afraid to wander. Then, in their 80s and 90s, they wanted to see America from a different perspective, as prior to this trip, they stayed on major highways or flew to their destinations. Being out on a journey over back roads with me was an adventure that presented many new experiences to these retirees that they wouldn’t have otherwise been able to take or endure.

Roadside in Texas 2005

When I say they had to “endure” this trip, don’t think for a minute that it was always easy for them to travel so far. Sitting in place for long periods when they might want to stretch their legs. Being too hot, too cold, hungry, thirsty, or needing a bathroom in the next 10 seconds had them making compromises with creature comforts that are readily available at home. Their remaining paths in life didn’t have a long time left to travel (my grandfather had less than 12 months to go). Herbie was an inspiration to me for many a year. Ever since I was a small boy I was fascinated by him, from his work as a painter and woodworker to piloting his yacht on the Niagara River and Lake Erie. He was a giant who did stuff. In the 1970s, he had open-heart surgery, but for the next 30 years, he never slowed down. He was always up for making the sacrifices that took him out and into the new.

Roadside in Texas 2005

My Aunt Eleanor was a rock to me. She was my mother when my own 16-year-old mom couldn’t meet my demands as a teenager. Not only did Auntie care for my sister and me, but she was also caring for her own mom, my great-grandmother Josephine. As a 5-year-old boy, I could have never comprehended that my aunt loved me as much as her own mom. Auntie gave selflessly of herself and never seemed unhappy. While she didn’t marry until she was nearly 70 years old and lost her husband after only about 15 years of marriage, my great-aunt had one of the greatest dispositions of anyone I might ever know in my lifetime.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Those two are now like the trees over there on the other side of the fence; they are out of reach but not fully out of view. They live on in my heart and memories, and if I’m lucky and ever pass this way again, I hope to catch a glimpse of them. How much of who they were and precisely what they instilled in who I’ve become cannot be separated from the totality of me, but I know that there is goodness they carried that spilled into me in some small or hopefully big way. Time will tell.

Roadside in Texas 2005

Late in the day, we were driving into the sunset just as everyone does every day, but while we were closing in on dinner and a hotel, little did any of us have in mind that the last one was always on the horizon. While our time on earth allows us to perceive hints of what infinity might be, we will not be afforded the opportunity to be witness to even a fraction of what that means. Knowing the rarity of our time here, walking under such beautiful skies should never be taken for granted. Leave your routine people, and even when you can’t leave home, you can still leave the well-trodden paths in your mind and venture into the unknown. Books are a great first start if you’ve forgotten the way to see into the realms of possibility.

Roadside in Texas 2005

It’ll be dark soon enough, and when you can never see the light or find your mind illuminated by the fire of existence again, there will be no time for regrets. The story will be done, and your chapter will be finished. While we might be able to jam 100 days of experience into a single day, we cannot stuff a lifetime of existence into the final 10 minutes before we die. So, how’s your own story going?

Auntie and Grandpa Going to Florida – Day 12

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

In the morning, as the sun rises into blue skies, the red door of my room blazes a fiery red, reminding me that we stayed the night in Redwater, Mississippi. Just a few minutes further, and we are on the Natchez Trace Parkway. I cannot help but travel north a short way to maximize our time on this historic road that slices a path through the forest. The National Park administers the more than 440 miles of the Trace and does so admirably. Caroline and I drove the length of the Trace in the year 2000, starting in Nashville, Tennessee, its terminus, and for the next two days, we crawled slowly south to Natchez, Mississippi.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Leaving the Trace, back then, was tragic as we had wound down and decompressed. Rejoining the speed of life highway-style was a rude transition back to modernity. Joining the Trace today, I’m filled with fond memories and the thrill of excitement. Back when Caroline and I were here, we had rain and gray, but still, it is one of the top scenic drives we have taken.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Although I could easily keep on with my travel north, I turned around after 11 miles to keep us close to our loosely defined schedule. It is a beautiful sunny day to take in the details, shadows, waters, life, and sense of history along this great American scenic byway.

The Trace commemorates an ancient trail originally established by Native American tribes, the Choctaw, Chickasaw, and others. From 1785 to 1820, it found its heaviest use as the Kaintuck boatmen (rough guys who plied the waters of the Mississippi) who had gone downriver on the Mississippi and the Ohio Rivers to markets in Natchez and New Orleans made their way north again to Nashville on this path. Walking the length of the trail the men who were flush with money from selling their boat and goods dealt with swamps, thickets, forests, wild animals, bandits, and little in the way of accommodations.

Eleanor Burke on the Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Today, the swamps reflect old cypress, moss, and an often wild landscape adjoining freshly manicured grasses straddling one of America’s best-kept roads. There are interpretive trails taking visitors on educationally informative walks. Wild animals of the predatory type are long gone, a few turkeys, deer, vultures, armadillos, raccoons, and squirrels can be seen by sharp eyes. Bandits and accommodations are kept well away from the Trace, as is commercial traffic.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

The Trace has a top speed of 50 miles per hour. I find it difficult today to drive much above 30mph and wish that once in my lifetime, I could walk the length of this road. There are not a lot of cars here, and only a limited number of locations for them to join the Trace. You won’t find a restaurant here or a billboard. For 444 miles, you will find the natural side of America much the way it has looked since the Trace saw its first travelers back around 8000 B.C.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Historic sites are well-marked with large signs explaining what event or reason this particular area is being recognized. We stop at a few taking the time to familiarize ourselves with some of the roadside lore.

Trees tower over us, casting shadows from the east side of the road to the west. Some trees are bright green, while others have no fresh growth yet; we are still coming out of winter. Flowers dot the grasses and spread to the edge of the forests. Bright yellows, delicate whites, and tiny purple flowers are all making an early spring appearance.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

The Pearl River makes a curve along a bend of the Trace, and we are pulled towards its shore. A lonesome boat floats quietly as its sole occupant fishes on calm waters. The tranquility of the river set in this Mississippi forest acts as a great host to us travelers. Our only wish is to linger a little longer than we do.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Nothing lends itself better to feeling like you are in a primitive landscape than when coming across a flooded cypress grove. Ancient trees send roots out of the brackish water while moss creeps up the trunk towards the tops of trees, reflecting their blue sky frames in the dark mirrored surface. The scene offers the senses a jolt that keeps our minds and imaginations busy. The water-swollen bases of the trees look more like elephant feet than tree trunks, lending to the curiosity stirred up while staring into these primordial forests.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

More historic signs, more trees, and more blacktop, but the road is never dull. We cross small creeks, minor roads pass over the Trace, and the noonday sun illuminates the forest floor when trees aren’t busy blocking its light. A stop to look at wildflowers offers bees and bugs sharing flowers. Near the Choctaw boundary, another stop to inspect details, I look at fresh green leaves, old brown leaves, moss, bark, and a creek with two folks wandering its waters on their own exploration.

Eleanor Burke and Herbert Kurchoff on the Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Soon after seeing our first example of a rustic split rail fence we encounter one of the few remaining original sections of the Sunken Trace. More than eight feet deep in places from the hundreds of thousands of shoes that tamped down this trail, we move towards its edge for Auntie and Grandpa to have a view. Trees grow precariously close to the rim near the steep drop-off to the trail below. Back on the pavement, we inch closer to the end of the road.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

Mount Locust was, for many a traveler the first stop on their long walk north. A primitive stand, once one of many along the Trace, is now the lone survivor. Originally built in 1780, this oldest home in Mississippi changed owners until William Ferguson took over and added a small two-story inn, allowing travelers to grab a bunk for the night. Today the old house acts as an interpretive center telling the story of the Kaintuck’s journeys.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

From Mount Locust, we took an unmarked road. Down this dirt path, I drive as I’m curious to see what might be at the end of the way. A good part of the road is an original section of the Trace. Not knowing where we were going was at first ok as the trail was yet again more rustic than the paved road we had been on. After a few turns, we seemed to be crawling deeper into a thicker and thicker forest.

I am asked if I know where I am going; nope, no idea, but I am following this road we are on. The road forks, and we stay to the left. A home on the left, a home on the right, more homes, and I start to wonder just where we are. Two nervous passengers keep me alert, and I start to contemplate the idea of turning around. Having what I think is a good sense of where the paved road must be, I continue on.

Not long and we are on one of the tiny dirt road intersections that occasionally cross the Trace, now I know where those roads go. In just a few minutes, we are at the end of the Trace. It has taken us six hours to drive about 130 miles; someday, I will take twice as long.

Natchez, Mississippi March 2005

Minutes later a historic marker brings our attention to the Jefferson Military College. A quick stop and we find out that this was Mississippi’s first educational institution of higher learning, which opened its doors on January 7, 1811. In 1818, a young ten-year-old Jefferson Davis attended the school, but in 1863, it closed its doors due to the Civil War. The college reopened in 1866 as a preparatory school until the time it permanently closed in 1964.

The entrance to the well-maintained grounds is free. Self-guided tours of the restored West Wing, the kitchen, and Prospere Hall, where interpretive exhibitions, a gift shop, and restrooms are all found. The T.J. Foster Nature Trail takes visitors through a wooded ravine, past St. Catherine’s Creek, over bridges, past Ellicott Springs, and a historic cemetery. Nice place.

Natchez, Mississippi March 2005

Natchez, Mississippi, is one of America’s oldest cities. Founded before New Orleans, it was once the home of more millionaires than any other place on earth outside of New York City. The city is internationally known as being the home to some of the best examples of surviving antebellum homes. These are not them.

Natchez Trace in Mississippi March 2005

A visitor’s reception center sitting high above the banks of the Mississippi next to the bridge that takes people to and from Louisiana is a great first stop to learn about the local sights. Not only are maps available for self-guided tours to see these old historic homes but tours inside many of them are available.

Louisiana 2005

If only this were a tailgate road trip with a portable cooking setup where we could have made our own boiled peanuts and cooked up some crawfish, we bought along the side of the road, this could have been so much more.

Louisiana 2005

There will be no roadside cookouts doing it cajun style, but there will be dinner and a proper motel to take a rest from a busy day that, at times, I feel is more about me and my desires than the guests I’m ferrying across America’s southern states.

Auntie and Grandpa Going to Florida – Day 11

Alabama 2005

Friday starts with biscuits and gravy. The continental breakfast at this Best Western easily wins the best breakfast award of our trip. Not only are the biscuits and gravy just great, the menu includes grits, oatmeal, dry cereal, a large mixed fruit bowl, pastries, bagels, coffee, and orange juice. The staples are just that, but the biscuits and gravy will live on at some mythical level of a quality unseen from a franchise hotel.

Based on the roads taken Thursday, I altered our itinerary to take in some smaller roads, which I hope will be more rural and a lot slower than the main artery I had originally chosen. Before our deviation, we passed cotton, the crop that, along with tobacco, defined the South for many troubled years. Cotton shouldn’t be dismissed as some pretty fluffy-looking fibers that somehow become a large part of our clothes. Back in 1840, cotton exports represented 67% of our export economy, and the British were the largest buyers of our slave-produced product, which was making slave owners rich. Wealth and the desire for what it buys have always been a powerful factor in how one person exploits another, with only the obvious negative nature of this ugly transaction being camouflaged in order to keep it alive right up to today.

Alabama 2005

The lady at the desk of our hotel, on hearing about my plans to take us through Enterprise and then Opp, before pointing the car north for the drive to Montgomery, recommended we take the Montgomery highway, which would be much faster. I explained we were intentionally looking for slower scenic roads. She insisted that the roads we will be driving are not scenic as she has driven them many a time and are not what she would call scenic rural roads.

They are the roads of rural poverty where lack of education and inequality regarding resources are measured out in such ways to ensure those caught in the trap of being born to the wrong geography and race will continue maintaining their position in society. Far too many people in this region of our country are trapped, which is right where those who despise them would like to keep them short of deporting them to Africa.

Alabama 2005

Boy, was she wrong? Leaving the 84, where we spotted the cotton, and getting on the 92 East, we are traveling the nondescript little two-lane side roads I live for. More abandoned homes, a house with a boat docked in the front yard ready to be dragged over to the Choctawhatchee River for some fishing. Farms are interspersed between patches of forest and rolling hills. The red clay soil of Alabama is churned over in a number of fields by local farmers prepping their land for spring planting; maybe it’s already been seeded.

Alabama 2005

My feelings for Alabama are warming as I witness the intrinsic beauty the state embodies and what must have been the draw for early settlers. Plenty of water graces Alabama, and the rich red earth must deliver an adequate abundance based on the number of working farms I see around here. At the same time, there is also great poverty and much neglect, so any assumptions on my part will require further scrutiny.

Alabama 2005

The 167 bypasses Enterprise and delivers us to the 134 East towards Opp. The characteristic wetlands of the region are a romantic attraction, at least during springtime. I get lost in their reflections. Looking into their dark waters with trees ringing the water’s edge and, at times, growing from the middle of the depths of the waters has me on the constant lookout for places to pull over in case I spot a particularly spectacular example.

All the while, I have to remain vigilant in the memories of what has occurred on these lands and the horror of those dragged out of a continent a world away to be thrown into a kind of labor that would have been as alien to them as any modern-day person being sucked up off the earth and brought to a planet light-years away and forced to clean the anuses of Martians.

Alabama 2005

Crushed dreams and broken families litter the history here and cannot and should never be overlooked. Not until white America reconciles its still remaining racist tendencies and begins the work of true integration should we be let off the hook for our ancestors’ injustices.

Lonely and near-empty houses, once homes to people who don’t leave photos of better times behind, are scattered along the highway. Some appear to be older dwellings, discarded from use after the current property owner built newer digs. Along the way, we left the 134 to take the 189 North until we branched off to the 141 and finally onto the 9/29/331 – yes, all three roads on the same stretch of highway.

Alabama 2005

Are we lucky to be here in springtime instead of the summer and fall when the mosquitos may have negatively impacted my perceptions? Right now, though, I am taken in. No matter if the waters are brown, black, or have a green surface, are large, small, running, or standing still, they all are delights to my eyes.

Alabama 2005

Windows to the past are discarded as inconvenient reminders that what was happening here at one time should not be seen again. I can’t help but filter this part of our journey with eyes that try to peer deeper into what is just below the surface and wonder if it might be kindling yet to catch fire.

Alabama 2005

On one side of the road, a small rural grocery appears to be thriving, while just down the street is a nothingness intersection where the local gas station/convenience store has recently closed. The store appears to have shut abruptly. Maybe a death or serious injury in the family forced the owner’s hand, or maybe poor management brought foreclosure? We casual travelers will likely never know.

The town of Brantley pops up out of nowhere and is a small gift to travelers. Two old washing machines from my aunt’s youth first caught our attention. Rusting, inoperative, and growing plants from their tubs, the nostalgia they imbue has Aunty fawning over her memories of having used washers just like them years ago.

Alabama 2005

At first glance, the town seems to have dried up with its dust being sent by the wind, but that is only at first sight. While a lot of the shops are in need of either tenants or paint, just north of downtown are some wonderful, well-kept old homes. A large school is still open, and my curiosity to know more about Brantley will only be satisfied on a future visit.

Between these small towns are more farms and more wetlands. Old relics of business, now shells, dot the crumbling sidewalks, and we sit back and watch farms and forests pass by our windows. The weather earlier had given me some concern that we were in for nastiness, but after about 25 miles of driving north, the storm broke up, and we were under sunny skies as we approached Montgomery.

Alabama 2005

I expected more on the way to Montgomery. I am not sure what it was I thought I’d find. Maybe I was looking for abject poverty or old homes with folks sitting out front on the patio watching life go by. I could also have been thinking there had been a renaissance around this celebrated area and that, along with monuments, would stand new homes and businesses that would demonstrate the vibrancy of the black and the white populations seeking better lives.

Instead, things seem to look much the way they likely always have. I am curious to see downtown Montgomery, but time constraints are playing a role. I’ll have to wait for a return in the future, but for now, I’ll take Highway 80 to Selma as a compromise. We are about to follow the path of the civil rights march that occurred along this route back in the 1960s.

We are greeted by a commemorative sign identifying the events which took place here. The road itself is now a four-lane highway that is rather nondescript. To me, it appears that this area has been sterilized. Maybe there were old homes or shops, gas stations, or signs of the camps along the way; today, there is asphalt.

Alabama 2005

A sign here or there identifies where the encampments were. Promises of future memorials on long-forgotten placards fade sun-baked from the years of neglect. Coming into Selma from the east, we get our first taste of the type of poverty that has been ever-present for too many people of African-American descent. This is indicative of not just the population here but can be found across the country.

Selma is just another microcosm of life in the U.S. for black Americans. One side or the other, south or west, on the outside of town, or hidden away off a secondary road, a community of ramshackle dwellings identifies the have-nots where education and opportunity have played secondary roles to the need for survival.

On the way to Selma, I take inventory of what I have watched and listened to over the course of my life so far, trying to see how things have changed for the black population in America. I knew most of the answer, but this trip across the U.S., my third in the past four years, confirms my first-hand experience that not much if anything, has improved; on the contrary, things seem tenser.

Alabama 2005

Our first stop is at the Downtowner Restaurant which Caroline found us moments before, while she sits patiently in Phoenix trying to help with my incessant phone calls for her to be my connection to the internet. She found us a winner today. Lunch for the three of us was some fantastic catfish served with three sides and a hushpuppy. Just like other home-style cooking places I’ve been to, certain items run out, and you have to choose from what’s left. In this case, Auntie had the last portion of catfish, and the next customer was forced to order something other than his first wish.

Alabama 2005

The layout of downtown Selma is classic Americana. The main buildings are old, well-maintained, and beautiful to look at, requiring a return visit so that Caroline and I can casually visit and view these historic structures and facades in greater detail. Ornate churches ring the city. Large homes stand gracefully as their present owners take great pride in preserving their heritage. These elegant timepieces have become showpieces, law offices, bed and breakfasts, and private homes.

The Live Oak Cemetery is a pre-civil war treasure that Auntie could have stayed at for the rest of the day. We read some birth and death dates, admire the ornate grave markers, and read a few of the historic postings before moving on.

Alabama 2005

Leaving Selma, the road returns to what came before on our journey. Pockets of decay between scenes of splendor. It is impossible for trees, lakes, creeks, and meadows to look broken down and sloppy, but quite easy for neglected man-made artifices that lie rotting. These time capsules dot the entire country, though, in some places, they are more common than others.

On the one hand, some buildings are simply eyesores, while others lend an aesthetic to the rustic look and feel of the environment. Some gas stations age gracefully and harken to a moment in history that feels romantic, while another more modern closed station portrays urban blight. Homes that may have been savable a few years before quickly succumb to the forces of nature once a chink in the armor can be exploited.

Once a roof starts to collapse, it won’t be long before the floors rot. An open door or broken window invites animals to take refuge. If the opening is small, first, the insects and birds make the old home their new home. When the house has been sealed up well, it is likely a transient made the place their own for a while. A lone mattress, a few scattered clothes, and empty liquor bottles are usually good indicators that after the owners left, a squatter took over.

Alabama 2005

We leave the “Welcome to Alabama” sign behind and must be crossing into Mississippi, but the welcome sign is nowhere to be found; not even a little placard at this crossing is seen. The sun is going down in this corner of a Mississippi forest, and another crossroads brings us to more forgotten and neglected buildings. Night approaches, and for a short while, we drive in the dark on our way to Carthage, Mississippi.

Alabama 2005

Our motel is the Economy Inn on the north end of town, off Red Water Road if I am not mistaken, this should be the town of Red Water, but the listing for the motel online said the place was in Carthage. This was found in my bathroom; just kidding.

Closing thoughts on racism. I have seen this cancer that plagues our country firsthand. Not necessarily as it happens to a recipient of its vitriol but from other Caucasians who believe I’m part of their club of hate. This has happened on dozens of occasions over the past 30 years of my life. What was new about this trip was how much more open and angry it has become over the past four years. People talking within earshot use racial terms of hatred without concern about who might be hearing them.

A young black woman in Louisiana related how children 3 and 4 years old talk about “them niggers over there” when in stores and parks. An older black gentleman told me of the black side and the white side of town. I’ve had a hotel receptionist offer me a room up front away from the “woolly boogers.”

In Mississippi, off a side road is what appears to be a small town with two churches and small houses packed tightly next to one another. The only problem is that this place had no sign identifying this as a township, village, or small town, and nothing on the map either. There were no street signs or mailboxes. All of the residents as far as I could see, were black. This got me wondering if this was more common than I might imagine. Are there pockets of impoverished African Americans who have clumped together in unincorporated areas, staying off the radar screen and not part of any community?

Civil rights have surely improved things since those fateful days along these roads of racism years ago, but in reality, the white population has sold themselves a new and improved brand of Caucasians that is bigger and better than ever since we removed those harmful overt signs of racism and intolerance from the recipe that creates ugly souls. The truth is we just rebranded the same old product and called it new; it’s still what it is, full of hate and bigotry but with a much nicer face that appears too thin to hide the truth.

It’s not just the south either; it’s there in Montana as big as the sky. Idaho’s potato crop pales in comparison to the size of its prejudice. New York doesn’t escape either; just check out upstate. Chicago? Don’t be caught on the wrong side of town. Iowa? I don’t believe there are but 3 African Americans in the entire state.

Selma was a truly beautiful city in spite of the poverty on its edges, but still, I could easily imagine there is more than a handful of people there who feel that a new walk to Montgomery is in order.