Camp Verde Loop

Driving north on highway 17 I leave the road to visit Black Canyon City, Arizona

I pulled off Highway I-17 just north of Phoenix, where it enters the mountains, for a brief visit to Black Canyon City.

The phone is off the hook and unavailable at the closed Black Canyon Greyhound Park in Black Canyon, Arizona

The phone is off the hook and unavailable so am I today on my 42nd Birthday. I took a long and meandering drive, making Black Canyon City my first stop. Wandering around, I visited a deserted facility that turned out to be the Black Canyon, Greyhound Park. Dusty and weathered the facility ages, just like me.

Maggie Mine in Black Canyon City, Arizona is nearly in ruins, careful this is private property

The views are great, with Towers Mountain and Crown King to the northwest. Mines dot the surrounding hills, both operative and defunct. Most of these lands are private property and well-marked as such. Mine owners are a riley bunch on the whole, so as you go around these parts, it is best to honor the “no trespassing” warnings.

Fort Verde State Historic Park in Camp Verde, Arizona

Without much to investigate, I make my way back to the 17, traveling north. Camp Verde is the next exit I take to look for Fort Verde. Fort Verde was the primary base for General George Crook’s scouts and soldiers.

Lately, Caroline has been reading the book Once They Moved Like the Wind in the car while we are out driving, and I have been going out to check out the sites referenced in the book or with historical context regarding the Indian Wars.

Historic settings inside restored and preserved buildings at Fort Verde help portray the times the fort was in use

The preserved and well-maintained buildings of Fort Verde are on the National Register of Historic Places and feature interpretive exhibits, helping the visitor draw a more vivid picture of how the Fort looked and how its residents lived while the State of Arizona was being established.

Nearby Camp Verde are worthwhile destinations, including Montezuma’s Castle and Montezuma’s Well, while only 20 miles northwest is the Verde Canyon Railroad.

Driving east out of Camp Verde the road climbs the Mogollon Rim towards Strawberry, Arizona

Driving east out of Camp Verde on State Road 260, the Mogollon Rim lies before you. The Rim extends from here to the Mogollon Mountains in southwest New Mexico, defining the southwestern edge of the Colorado Plateau.

A resident of Phoenix and parts south makes regular visits to Rim Country. The area is popular for its cool temperatures, many lakes, campgrounds, and small towns that allow an escape from the bustle of America’s sixth-largest city.

A temporary meadow lake created by melting snows on the Mogollon Rim in Arizona

In the mountains of the Mogollon Rim, the elevation rises as high as 7,000 feet, which makes for occasional snowy winters. As winter snows melt, temporary meadow lakes are created across the plateau, as seen here on the left.

The Ponderosa Pine found extensively across the Rim lends an alpine atmosphere to the region, broadening its appeal.

A black bear paw impression next to a meadow lake on the Mogollon Rim in Arizona

Within the forest, hikers and surprised drivers will often spot elk, deer, javelina, and, on rare occasions, a bear.

Walking along the above lake on my way back to the car, I spotted this relatively fresh bear track amongst some cow hoof impressions and quickly scanned the area to find out if I might be looking like a juicy berry to a bear in hiding. Fortunately, or maybe not, there was no bear to be seen.

The trail to and from Tonto Natural Bridge near Payson, Arizona

Leaving the lake on State Road 87 I am driving south through an old favorite place of mine called Strawberry. Soon after, I pass the little village of Pine, an attractive place where weekend visitors can stop to buy local honey and maybe a bite to eat.

My intended destination today, though, is the Tonto Natural Bridge State Park. The turnoff from State Road 87 to the park is a steep road leading into a tiny valley with a fee station, charging a $3 per person entry fee.

A well-marked trail guides you to the bottom of the bridge for a great view of the surroundings. Allow at least ninety minutes to hike down, explore, and hike back up.

The 183-foot-tall natural bridge as seen from a catwalk leading to the 400-foot tunnel running underneath the Tonto Natural Bridge in Arizona

The bridge itself stands 183 feet high. The tunnel below is 400 feet long and measures 150 feet at its widest point.

Rocks at the base of the bridge near the end of the tunnel are covered in moss accumulated due to a fine misting from a small waterfall trickling down from the top of the bridge like a silver curtain.

On hot days, you will find youngsters of all ages playing in the stream and standing under the cool mist descending through the mountain air. Today, at the beginning of spring, only a few other visitors have taken to the trail.

Looking into the 400-foot-long tunnel which is 150 feet wide at its broadest point at Tonto Natural Bridge in Arizona

This photograph tries but does not quite succeed in demonstrating that the tunnel you are looking through is 400 feet deep and 150 feet wide. Only a visit to Tonto Natural Bridge will relate to just how large the entire bridge structure truly is.

Before I turn to leave, I stand at the end of the catwalk, hoping the wind will direct those cool, misty waters my way so my return trip up the canyon might be just a bit more comfortable.

183 feet above the stream bed below a fine mist descends from a small waterfall draping over the Tonto Natural Bridge in Arizona

No luck with the uncooperative wind, though. This small waterfall is only to be appreciated by viewing today. The hike back out is fairly painless, even for an overweight guy like myself.

The rest of the trip home is about 90 miles south, but first, I will pass through Payson and a gorgeous valley with green mountains on my right and the four peaks to the left. Thus, my Birthday drive comes to a close.

Dragon Kite & Drive Home

Near downtown Santa Barbara, California on the beach

Following breakfast and a long goodbye, we are once again on the road. Tata gave us a kite this visit and as we passed the beach near downtown Santa Barbara, I pulled over for a picture, and Caroline suggested we try out our new toy. It takes her about 5 minutes to assemble it while I walk along the water’s edge, wishing we were so fortunate to live here in this incredible coastal community.

Caroine Wise flying her kite on a beach in Santa Barbara California

Tata and Woody gave Caroline and me a large dragon kite this weekend. From a prior visit, they knew we were looking for a nice kite but came up empty. Tata, on one of her many shopping trips, found this one and was certain it would be one we liked; she was right. On our way home, we stopped near Stearn’s Wharf, walked out to the beach, and Caroline assembled the dragon and put it aloft.

Our new kite aloft at the beach in Santa Barbara, California

With Caroline at the helm, her smile is as big as the kite’s high. It’s not a stunt kite, but Caroline is having fun all the same as she lets the string out allowing the kite to tug at her grip: A perfect day next to the Pacific Ocean in Santa Barbara. Eventually, she reigns the kite in, and we continue our journey.

Caroline Wise exploring the shore at low tide on the Pacific Ocean in California

Of course, driving home through California is never all that straightforward, and it’s not long before we stop at another beach near Sea Cliff. This time, we cannot pass up the telltale sign of low tide – exposed rocks and grasses next to the surf. We walk along for a half-hour, spotting anemones, starfish, coastal birds, and the occasional crab. Finally, Caroline puts her shoes back on, and this time, we definitely must push on to home if we are to get there at a reasonable time.

San Jacinto Peak near Palm Springs, California

We make good on the commitment and, after a couple of hours, are about to reenter the desert near Palm Springs. This snow-capped peak is a great reminder of how fortunate we are: Other places around the country are just leaving winter, while we get to walk barefoot along the ocean after visiting the Botanic Garden and watching butterflies flutter about.

Sunset paints the early evening sky blue, purple, orange and red in the California desert

Daylight gives way to a stunning sunset of blues, purple, orange, and red, while another great brief weekend away from Phoenix comes to a close. For everyone who wonders how we can handle so much driving, we ask them back, how can you handle watching so much TV?

Santa Barbara

Woody Burns and Caroline Wise in Goleta, California

This weekend, our trek is 507 miles long each way, which is how far my Aunt and Uncle in Santa Barbara live away from us. California had an exceptionally wet winter. One particular time we had considered visiting but decided against it because all roads in and out of Santa Barbara had been closed due to them being washed out or covered in mud due to landslides. After too much delay due to wet weather, we arrive on a beautiful weekend.

Aunt Ann also known as Tata washing dishes at home in Goleta, California

Visiting Santa Barbara, California, to visit Uncle Woody and Tata; some dishes are getting cleaned before we go for lunch. This was our first visit since Christmas and was long overdue. Just after the weekend, we learned that Tata’s brother Mike isn’t doing well. Caroline and I visited with Uncle Mike in Buffalo, New York, back in 2000, and later, as Mike and Penny made their last trip to California.

Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, California

Following the rains, the mountains, gardens, and yards are vibrantly green and lush, which leads us to the decision that we have to go to the Santa Barbara Botanic Gardens. Nestled into Mission Canyon and only a mile and a half from the historic Santa Barbara Mission, the Garden, a state historic site, has been welcoming visitors for more than 75 years.

Santa Barbara Botanic Garden in California

This weekend and for the coming two years, Toad Hall, pictured to the right, will be on display. Created by artist Patrick Dougherty, this environmental sculpture is a two-story willow tower with a maze of pathways and chambers. The inspiration for Mr. Dougherty’s work was taken from the book The Wind in the Willows. If you would like to see how Toad Hall was built, visit these pages on the Garden’s website.

Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, California

Coming from Phoenix, Arizona, where we have what appears to be a mere handful of native species, mostly consisting of cactus and more cactus, the seemingly infinite number of plant species here in Santa Barbara strikes a stark contrast. It was this diversity that first drew us to the Garden on a previous visit. Short of walking Santa Barbara’s hilly streets and stopping to gaze at individual private gardens, a visit to the Botanic Garden really is the best way to acquaint yourself with the plants of California.

Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, California

Continuing into the Garden, deeper in the canyon, a path leads you through a small grove of coastal redwoods and clusters of fern. Conveniently located throughout the park are comfortable benches for taking a moment or two to relax, listen, and feel your surroundings. On any given day outside of California’s notorious torrential downpours, you can expect a wonderfully pleasant day here at the Garden.

Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, California

A small creek running through the Garden is momentarily stopped at the Mission Dam. Water spilling over the enclosure adds to the ambiance of sound and vision as we meander under the heavy canopy of trees towering overhead. Further down the canyon, visitors have the opportunity to cross the creek, hopping from stone to stone – if they so wish.

Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, California

With so much moisture and heavy tree cover, a redwood’s favorite lays a carpet of clover over the ground, offering a magic blend of shadowy greens and giving rise to thoughts of emerald islands and elfin mysteries. Not only is the Garden busy with plant life, but there is also an abundance of wildlife to be enjoyed here too. The Santa Barbara Botanic Garden is visited by 123 species of birds, some year-round.

Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, California

Other animal life includes turtles, who occasionally perch themselves on nearby rocks to catch some of those famous California rays. On a previous visit, we watched a harmless garter snake slither over the trail. Butterflies and honeybees also make the Garden their home. I’m sure that if Caroline and I had more time here at the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden we would continue to discover new inhabitants here in this little slice of paradise.

Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, California

We enjoy these walks through the trees, stopping to smell the flowers, look at the birds, and listen to the water bubbling by, but our visit to Santa Barbara is also about visiting family, and so after what seems to be the shortest of visits we depart and almost immediately talk of plans to come back as soon as possible. After dinner later in the day, we stay up late talking with Uncle Woody and Tata (Aunt Anne) before heading to sleep so we catch 40 winks and are well rested for our long drive home on Sunday.

Paving the Desert

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the way to California

In the car, leaving Phoenix, Arizona.

65 miles west of Phoenix, Arizona a road crew is out repaving the 10 freeway

A road crew out repaving the 10 freeway about 65 miles west of Phoenix, Arizona, causes us a 45-minute delay on our way to Santa Barbara, California to visit Uncle Woody and Aunt Ann.

Harquahala Mountains with a peak elevation of 5,681 feet as seen from Interstate 10 traveling west in Arizona

North of Interstate 10, about 50 miles east of California, is the Harquahala Mountains, one of about eight ranges we drive by on leaving Phoenix, Arizona. Caroline and I have passed these mountains at all times of the year and at all times of the day. No less than 60 times west and 60 times east have we crept down this interstate to begin and finish a weekend. After ten years of following the more than 350 miles of road between Phoenix and Los Angeles, we still love the views this stretch of desert offers.

Mix Bowl Cafe in Pomona, California

We seem to stop at Mix Bowl in Pomona a lot; that’s because they are great!