Dreams, Moments, Travels
Not yet 24 hours back in Arizona and I am missing Hawaii. With no ocean for hundreds of miles, I look to food to bring me back to Hawaii for a moment. There are a few Hawaiian fast-food restaurants across the valley but they are all in the east valley. After some searching, I found L&L Hawaiian BBQ here in the northwest on Happy Valley Road and Interstate 17. The food was ok. I sure could go for a couple of tickets back to Hawaii.
Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago.
Under Kahili Mountain we awoke to the rooster’s crow, stepped outside, and showered beneath the banana tree leaves partly covering our outdoor shower. This is the view of looking up while naked.
I left the key on the table of our cabin under the watchful gaze of this spider, started the car, and drove to the beach.
Caroline grabbed yesterday’s pineapple and apple bananas, I picked up the snorkel gear, and we sat down below a palm tree for breakfast on Poipu Beach.
Some early morning cloud cover quickly gave way, and the sun lit the shallow waters for one more swim with the fishies.
They all came by to wish us good luck on our travels and assured us they were looking forward to meeting us again one day.
Even the urchin waved its pointy spines a fond farewell; the display of love touched our tear glands.
Others turned their backs, afraid they too would cry, saying as they did so, “Just go now.”
Crap, now I can’t remember if this was a Moorish idol, a schooling bannerfish, or pennant coralfish; I think it said it was a Moorish idol, but don’t quote me.
Whoa, a purple velvet pufferfish with Starfield came out to enchant us.
And with that, we left the ocean like only people can and started our journey to the airport.
Goodbye, palm tree and picnic table that hosted breakfast this morning; we’ll keep you both in our hearts for years to come.
Nope, I still think she looks better with me, guys, so no, you can’t keep her for the band, but big mahalo for putting smiles on our faces as we were facing the sad reality of returning to Phoenix, Arizona, where we will not find such yummy pineapple, poke bowls, albatross, outdoor showers, or pufferfish. Aloha, Hawaii, it’s been great.
Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago.
I just can’t get enough of this view and our incredible good luck at nabbing such lodging here under Kahili Mountain. If I weren’t a cynical man, I’d think that karma has its benefits.
We did lots of snorkeling between Maui, Molokai, and Kauai, thanks to the guys at Snorkel Bob’s who rented us the gear. Pufferfish to eels, butterflyfish to needlefish, even the state fish of Hawaii, the Humuhumunukunukuapua’a (also known as the reef triggerfish), were all seen by Caroline and me on our snorkeling.
This is our last full day on the islands, and we made the best of it. After snorkeling, we paid a short visit to a part of the National Tropical Botanical Gardens where we were able to behold the sight of the endangered jade vine.
The water lotus flower should leave people speechless that such a flower even existed during our time and didn’t go extinct with the demise of the dinosaurs, as it looks like something right out of the Cretaceous period to me.
The aptly named rainbow eucalyptus tree.
Ultimately, the mosquitos drove us away, but not before Caroline sacrificed another gram of blood so I could snap this photo.
The next stop was back at the little roadside fresh fruit stand to get another sweet pineapple along with the yummiest apple bananas that we kept for tomorrow’s breakfast. Then, a stop at the Koloa Fish Market for another poke bento fish breakfast.
We have returned to the Kauai Hindu Monastery in an attempt to gather a better view of the facility and surrounding land.
While I donned the obligatory lungi (actually, it was a sarong), we were still tourists and not adherents of Hinduism, so my hopes of visiting the temple were dashed as it’s frowned upon to interfere with people observing their moment of prayer. Well, the grounds are well worth the visit.
The diversity of plants here is amazing and to think it’s a tiny fraction of what exists in the rain forests of South America.
Nope, won’t be visiting that building out there any time soon.
Lord Ganesha, a.k.a. Ganpati, is upon the door facing Nandi, the bull that I took the photo of yesterday.
On our way back up the eastern shore.
Approaching Hanalei but not making many stops as we have an objective that demands we get somewhere at a reasonable time.
In Hanalei in time for a lunch of mixed plate something or other, including poi and rice and a taro smoothie.
Okay, one ocean photo before getting serious.
We are back at the Haena State Park for a hike up the Kalalau trail.
No, we didn’t lick it.
On Kauai, this is known as a trail.
I probably licked that once or twice, though not while on the trail of toads and roots.
When on the edge of this trail, it’s probably better to look inland as it’s kind of scary out here from time to time.
That’s Ke’e Beach down there, where I took the photo of Caroline walking alone.
Somewhere out there on the left is the famed Hanakāpīʻai Beach on Kauai’s Nā Pali coast, which we won’t be visiting today.
We only made it about a mile and a half as my broken toe wasn’t enjoying the rough trail.
Maybe another time?
At least we won’t be hiking back on this dangerous trail in the dark.
A red-crested cardinal was treated the same as the toad and not licked, though we may have salted its tail.
Back on terra firma. I’ve looked far and wide, trying to figure out just where I took this photo, but have come up with absolutely nothing.
Back down on the Ke’e beach.
We were just in time for a golden sunset and a beautiful ending to our final day on Kauai.
Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago.
Kauai, where you wake up to rainbows. As I said yesterday, we are staying here under Kahili Mountain for the duration of our stay on this island. Before we head out for our late breakfast at the Koloa Fish Market, we thought we should take a moment to familiarize ourselves with our surroundings.
You don’t have to go far to find a universe that’s a world away from the one we’ll be jumping into shortly back down at Poipu Beach, where we finished our day yesterday.
Imagine how many biomes any of us with the means could explore if there was the desire to gather the infinite. Instead, many will focus on celebrity du jour as though the study of fame and wealth could inspire someone to easily achieve something so esoteric and rare as deep talent, but that’s how we package cultural consumption. It’s as though if one were to watch Star Wars, they too could be a Jedi fighter, and with cosplay, I suppose they in some way do just that, but who might ever attempt to take inventory of every variant of Lantana and then pretend to be Darth Frugivore destroying the Lantana Empire’s fruit? Probably not a movie that would sell well.
Just then, this frugivorous lizard throws me side-eye and telepathically signals me to stop making fun of their universe.
Excuse me while we take this underwater. Here we are at Poipu Beach in Koloa was the first place we snorkeled. So I asked this Christmas Wrasse what its thoughts were about a culture preoccupied with the superficial. It blooped out a couple of bubbles, signaling me to piss off.
No, you stupid human, I am not some philosopher fish, nor should you confuse me with some famous aquatic sociologist Osteichthyes you might think I am; I’m just a fish swimming in the sea, likely as confused as you are.
Back on Poipu Beach, I find no sign of intelligent life, so we return to the sea like the Tiktaalik should have done.
Not finding what I was looking for at Poipu, we moved up the road to Lawa’i Beach in Koloa and started looking for fish with answers to life’s important questions.
Lunch was at Koloa Fish Market. Just kidding, we pulled this guy out of the water, ate it, and called it sushi.
Kapaia Stitchery in Lihue beckoned. Without yarn stores, we made do by Caroline buying some fabric.
Wailua Falls in Lihue, and I’ve not a snarky thing to share. In any case, that nonsense can only go so far.
Caroline Wise on Wailua Beach, I’m starting to believe she’s trying to return to some ancient form.
We are driving into Poliahu Park because our day needs more waterfalls.
‘Opaeka’a Falls is just the medicine.
Waterfalls followed by fresh coconut water.
We are at Kauai’s Hindu Monastery admiring Nandi, the bull that transports the Hindu God Shiva. We didn’t stay long as a private event was restricting areas from visitation.
Continuing our exploration, traveling north on the east side of Kauai, we reached the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge.
Like most lighthouses these days, they serve an aesthetic tourism role as their lights were decommissioned long ago, having been replaced with electronic beacons. Fortunately, they are being preserved, though I can’t imagine the expense will be carried on for decades to come unless they are financially self-supporting.
So this is the famous nēnē goose; its neck feathers are like no other I’ve seen, but then again, maybe I’ve not seen a super wide variety of geese.
We watched a bunch of frigates gliding along the ocean’s edge, but it was the albatross that demanded most of my attention. The albatross is the bird that can circumnavigate the earth in as little as 46 days, can fly for 10,000 miles, remains out over our oceans for up to six years, can read the weather far in front of it, and navigate to avoid storms; this giant bird is magical in my eyes. When one stops to think about the juvenile leaving the nest and this solo journey for years as it matures, only returning to its birth island to find a mate after this pilgrimage to the sea, should leave us wondering what is it gathering in experience as it travels our earth in ways no other creature can.
Hanalei Valley in Princeville is home to one of the most famous overlooks, but right now, the weather is not cooperating for one of those photos.
Wishing Well Shave Ice in Hanalei because if we don’t try them all, how will we know which one is the best?
Hanalei Beach, with two other visitors, we held back so as not to crowd them.
Wainiha Bay Park in Kapa’a was all ours, not another person in sight. How much longer can this kind of experience be had on the Hawaiian Islands?
On our way to the end of the road. We take note along the way to return to the Limahuli Garden & Preserve National Tropical Botanical Garden should we have time this trip or maybe on a future return to the island.
Ke’e Beach in Haena State Park is what we’ll be exploring today, as the Kalalau Trail will require more time than we can afford this afternoon. The Kalalau Trail I mentioned is the famous one that takes the intrepid out on the Nā Pali Coast.
Shore erosion?
The faces of happy people on the island of Kauai on a beautiful day.
The threatened crowds never materialized; maybe this is the benefit of showing up outside of the main summer season.
On our way back around the island, we had that perfect moment where the lighting did all the work of showing off what the Hanalei Valley Lookout is known for.
Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago.
Take advantage of every possible moment where experience and memories might be found, and with that, we were up, packed, and checked out of our hostel just as the sun was rising. Being in Wailuku and having some hours before our flight, we are driving up the Kahekili Highway
It turns out that being away from the cities and popular beaches of the Hawaiian islands, total serenity and a peaceful countryside still exists.
I don’t know how far we traveled on the Kahekili Highway, though by most any measure, is a single-lane road really ever a highway?
The flight is under an hour, but for only $29 each as an upgrade price, this might be the cheapest we’ll ever be able to fly first-class, so we took the deal. I hope we look appropriately smug sitting in such grandeur.
Flying over Middle Loch of Oahu, approaching the Pearl Harbor Memorial that will be on our left. Maybe a future visit will bring us to Oahu for a longer visit.
Approaching the Garden Isle of Kauai and the final island, we’ll be visiting during this vacation.
The rest of our vacation will be spent here on Kauai, amongst greenery and rainbows.
Finding affordable lodging options on these islands wasn’t easy. First, on the Big Island, we stayed in the primitive cabin at Volcanoes National Park, then on Maui, our nights were spent in a hostel; Molokai didn’t offer many options, so the Hotel Molokai was it. Here on Kauai, I’d seen these cabins at Kahili Mountain Park that were part of the Kahili Adventist School. We are not members of the Seventh-day Adventist denomination, but that didn’t stop me from finding an angle in which Caroline and I were allowed to rent one of their cabins for the next three nights.
That’s our exquisite cabin under Kahili Mountain, and believe it or not, this was the cheapest option I could find on the island. Hence, I worked hard to get ourselves into this incredible location. On the right of the cabin, there are some light-colored leaves, those are banana leaves and where our outdoor shower is located.
I claimed the bed; Caroline will have to make do with the rug next to me or sleep in one of the chairs. Just kidding, there’s a larger bed directly across from this, so I’ll take it, and Caroline can have the child’s bed.
Yes, the shower indeed has a door and wall around it, but is otherwise wide open.
Situated in a cabin we could just stay at the entire time if it weren’t for the fact that we were on Kauai, we were quickly gone driving down a tree tunnel to Koloa on a recommendation.
That recommendation was for the Koloa Fish Market and specifically the Poke Bento. This little box lunch of raw Ahi tuna sprinkled with a coating of seaweed, sesame seed, and sea salt over a bed of white rice with a thin layer of wasabi cream became an instant favorite and a dish we ate for breakfast the next two days.
The appropriately named Spouting Horn Park in Koloa.
These ladies’ fruit stand would prove indispensable to us because not only did they have amazing tropical fruit, but one of the ladies cut up our pineapple for us in the most unique way that allowed it to remain relatively whole but later could be pulled apart and eaten off the skin like corn-on-the-cob.
We are gathering a new definition of lush.
Kauai Soto Zen Temple in Hanapepe on our way to points north of Waimea.
Jo-Jo’s Shaved Ice was also an instant classic; I had the plain ice with passion fruit, mango, and guava, while Caroline opted for Halo Halo Shave Ice, which is decked out with shredded coconut, coconut gel, ice cream, azuki bean, and mixed fruit all topped with shaved ice and then a layer of haupia cream.
We followed the road a little further into Kekaha before deciding to turn around and head to where we were supposed to be going, up the Waimea Canyon Drive.
Waimea Canyon from an unnamed lookout.
View from the Hohonu Awawa Lookout.
Near the Awa’awapuhi Trail Parking.
Pu’u O Kila Lookout
On the edge between the Kōkeʻe State Park and the Nā Pali Coast State Wilderness Park at the end of Highway 550.
Some rainbows don’t illicit a stop as they appear so frequently, but then there are others where the glow combined with an opportune spot to pull over demands we take a pause to appreciate it and try to grab a decent photo. This rainbow sits in front of Mount Kaanakeakua.
The Kekaha Lookout.
Just south of the Kekaha Lookout.
Sunset on Poipu Beach.
We saw our first sea turtle in the wild – right at the shoreline, but I was a bit slow getting a better photo.
If the Koloa Fish Market didn’t close at midday, we’d have had dinner there instead; we had to find something else, and that something wasn’t as memorable as our poke bento or the fish we had on Molokai. You’ve got to love those moments that leave indelible memories.
Disclaimer: Back in May of 2006, when I started posting about our vacation to the Hawaiian Islands, we were severely limited regarding photos I could share due to bandwidth limitations. Here in 2022, I’m updating these posts using the original image and text I shared, but I’m adding the rest of the photos I would have liked to share if bandwidth and storage had not been issues 16 years ago.
While we are yet to visit Kauai, that’s tomorrow, I can’t help but think that Molokai is the most authentically Hawaiian island in the chain. The western rampage on the other islands is obvious, while things here seem to still be operating on islander time. If you want a sense of the place, just take a listen to the Hawaiian song E Hihiwai by the Rev. Dennis Kamakahi.
Our last day on Molokai, we were supposed to be kayaking on the coast and into a mangrove forest, but the low tide wasn’t cooperating with our scheduled ferry return to Maui.
Canceling the kayaking was a disappointment, but we made up for it with some more sightseeing on Molokai – the most peaceful island in Hawaii.
Here we are back at Kualapu’u Cookhouse, and I’m noticing that Caroline is taking notes about our trip; at this moment, I can’t say they’ve ever been transcribed onto the blog. This means there could be more details coming to these old posts in the future should we find this paisley-covered notebook. Of course, we squared our bill from the night before and, at the same time enjoyed a great breakfast made all the better because it was had on Molokai.
Should you want to visit the old leprosy (Hansen’s Disease) colony at the Kalaupapa National Historical Park, you’ll be traveling by mule or by foot. Sadly, we don’t have enough time to make the lengthy trek.
Yesterday, we made it out this way, but the lighting didn’t work out, and so here we are again on our way into the Pālāʻau State Park.
That’s the peninsula where you’ll find the Kalaupapa National Historical Park.
At the end of state highway 47, near Kalaupapa Lookout, is this famous phallic rock called Ka Ule o Nanahoa; I just call it Big Penis.
Seems that this horse enjoys its lower jaw being tickled.
If only Molokai could be preserved in the state it is right now, and that no further development could take place, this shouldn’t ever be the exclusive playground of billionaires, but isn’t that exactly what happens to perfect places when the only thing worth doing is giving greater value to all things in order for capitalism to continue to inflate the coffers that grease the wheels?
Apple bananas may be the greatest bananas we’ll ever taste, seriously better than anything we’ve ever had before.
Hawaiian hibiscus, I wonder if it makes a tasty version of the Mexican drink known as Agua de Jamaica?
Is this part of the 1/3rd of western Molokai (about 55,000 acres) that is in private hands? Cattle ranching, pineapple orchards, growing wheat, and at one time the world’s number one producer of honey, this incredible natural environment should be set aside in a trust to preserve it for future generations to remember what places look like without the destructive mindset of mankind to destroy what it touches.
We are at the Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove, a historic and dangerous place. The grove is historic as it is one of the last royal groves planted for a Hawaiian King and dangerous as those 10-pound coconuts acquainting themselves with gravity pose a significant challenge to your head to deflect one.
Would this really remain such an idyllic location if a massive dock were built here to park the giant yachts of the rich and famous? Why do we humans feel this overwhelming need to shit on paradise?
Just how does a tiny piece of driftwood buried in the sand find a way to grab hold of my pinky toe and bend it to being in a perpendicular state as compared to where it had been? Great, now I have a broken toe, my very first
Wow, there’s a sight: a dozen Hawaiians rowing single-outrigger canoes into port. These boats were likely the same kind that the Polynesians first sailed to this chain of islands some 1,600 years ago. Just consider this act of faith, 2,000 miles from the Marquesas, that was how great their belief was in navigation skills and the ability to capture enough food and water for the journey.
The day before, on the ferry to Molokai, we spotted some whales; today, on our way back, we saw a few dolphins.
On the right is the whale and on the left a svelt dolphin.
I should end this post right here by saying something about sailing into the sunset, but I still have a few photos I want to share.
Such as this one that’s seriously difficult to decipher, but it’s a Banyan Tree right in Lāhainā planted back in 1873.
This effect of turning things into silhouettes by white balancing my camera on the sun might make it look later than it is, but is nothing more than me hunting for an aesthetic. You’ll see from my last photo for the day that it was definitely light enough for other fun stuff.
Fun stuff as in one more opportunity for snorkeling on Maui. Dinner was at Cheeseburgers in Paradise before driving back across Maui for another night at the Banana Bungalow Hostel in Wailuku.