This is for what election?

Placards announcing candidates running for local office during upcoming elections in Phoenix, Arizona

You turn around in Phoenix and find there is another election. One election is for local candidates, the next election might be for congressmen and senators, after that it’s time to vote for ballot initiatives, or is it judges? Before we ever get to vote for the president again we will be voting on more laws, more local officeholders, maybe a special issue regarding water rights, who knows? Months before the initiatives get voted on we are sent a voluminous magazine-sized voter guide (sample ballot) written in confusing miniaturized legalese to alienate anyone with a sub 160 IQ or bad eyesight – under most circumstances this thing is most likely to go into the trash bin with the junk mail.

These local politicians run for some obscure office or other and you are sent absolutely nothing to learn who they are. Maybe the information was in that voter guide I tossed last year? No matter, we are presented with signs like those pictured above where at most they present us a brief ‘re-elect’ or a simplistic ‘I’m Better’ or the inspiring ‘Real Experience’. Oh well, these are career politicians and no one in Phoenix really knows who 90% of them are anyway, I’d be willing to bet that at election time most people listen to the name of the two candidates and will choose the person whose name is simple and pleasant to the ear. Heck, maybe that’s why W beat Gore and Kerry. Hey governor of Florida, just run as Jeb and you’ll beat the pants off Hillary Rodham Clinton….unless she gets smart and starts going by a new monicker such as HR or the Big C.

Ketchup is Flowing

A steaming pot of ketchup in the works

So, one day you find yourself with an extra 75 pounds of tomatoes and after four BLTs you find yourself overdosing on lycopene and wondering, what to do. I know, make ketchup! Google up the recipe, and another, and another – hmmm, this isn’t going to be easy, Heinz isn’t sharing what it knows. I start small, using 25 pounds of the tomatoes to make what should turn out to be a gallon of savory, thick-flowing ketchup. Washing, peeling, coring, and pureeing so many tomatoes takes nearly all day and my fingers are permanently stained orange. I cook the tomatoes, onions, and red bell pepper in two large pots. To strain the concoction, I should have used a food mill, but I don’t have one. After nearly four hours of cooking this down my ketchup isn’t thickening. Maybe I strained too much pulp, maybe I should have used a mill, maybe I should have deseeded and squeezed the extra water from the tomatoes while I was prepping them, maybe I should have used the full three cups of sugar the recipes called for? While millions talk online and download pictures of Paris Hilton, seemingly I am the only person in Google’s universe who is spending 15 hours over the course of a day trying to turn $65 of tomatoes into $15 worth of watery ketchup. Where are all the ketchup experts when you need one???

Cpt. Kirk Has Left The Building

Cpt Kirk out late for a bite before taking leave of Phoenix, Arizona

Cpt. Kirk left the valley of the sun after he and I stopped for a bite to eat late in the evening. He went somewhere, somewhere other than this boiling wasteland of conformity. Phoenix is a great place to make money, it’s a great starting point for branching out to travel the southwest. But as a community, Phoenix may be the most isolating big city in America. The desert lifestyle, too much sun, or maybe new money bring on a pretentiousness wrapped in hideously trendy yet generic behaviors and elitist trappings of arrogance unbacked by intellectual integrity, social awareness, or compassion for our fellow citizen. It was this distancing that pushed Kirk out of the normal social circles that keep the herd cohesive. I wish Kirk good luck in finding his place in a funky new environ that is more tolerant than this desert that has been sterilized of its humanity.

On The Way Home

Leaving Texas

Our big adventure to the panhandle of Texas to celebrate the holiday is coming to an end. The only thing left to do is point the car west and go home. We were up early in order to leave Arrington Ranch as soon as we could after sunrise, but not too early as we wanted to head into town for a stop at the Bucket for some coffee and breakfast, togo. We recommend the cinnamon rolls and breakfast burgers; the sourdough sure lends a great touch.

Cross of our Lord Jesus Christ in Groom, Texas

Our road south on Highway 83 took us to Shamrock, Texas, where we caught Interstate 40. Typically, we avoid freeways, but with 897 miles (1,450 km) ahead of us, we wanted to get home today, preferably before midnight. Fifty miles west of Shamrock we reached Groom, Texas, and the home of this giant Cross of our Lord Jesus Christ. While passing through two time zones and gaining two hours, I have to pull over twice, allowing Caroline to drive while I try to get some rest. She swears later that I slept well based on my loud snoring.

Entering New Mexico

In Albuquerque, we stop at Sadie’s for great New Mexican food, some of the hottest cooking around. Sadie’s was another discovery from the road trip I took with my mom, except that Caroline sent us there when we phoned her to ask for a restaurant recommendation in the area. We move in and out of the rain, at times so heavy it is difficult to see more than half a dozen car lengths ahead of us, and Route 66 beckons us to leave the Interstate for a few miles to revisit the Mother Road.

On Interstate 40 travelling west in New Mexico within 100 miles of Arizona

The photo above is on Interstate 40, somewhere west of Acoma Pueblo and east of the Continental Divide.

Flagstaff, Arizona ahead

Fifteen and a half hours after leaving Canadian we reached home in Phoenix, Arizona. These long drives are getting harder the older I get.

Independence Day in Canadian, Texas

Of course, we were up with the rising sun on America’s annual day of celebrating our independence. We didn’t travel to northern Texas to sleep in as an expression of freedom; we are here for all of the merriment we can partake in.

Note: while we were up early, this blog post is extremely late with its arrival, most of it anyway. It was the end of January 2023 when I finally got around to adding the 19 images that didn’t accompany the single photo of the man on a small tractor pulling a bunch of kids as part of the parade in Canadian, Texas. As I’ve explained in other posts, bandwidth was at a premium back on the days these posts were first penned, and so they were as big as I dared make them, unfortunately. From the original post, there were about 250 words to describe the entire day; they needed to be reworked and integrated into this new text, which will hopefully maintain the original message and sentiment.

This is the Hemphill County Courthouse and the hub of where today’s events are getting underway. Wafting in from around the area are sausages on a stick and kettle corn, trying to drag us in for snacking, but I have my senses tuned for something special in a few hours.

Along the way, we learned that there’d be a turtle race after the parade and that we still had time to size up the participants; our money was on number 30.

Vendors selling t-shirts, jewelry, and various arts and crafts set up in the shade, letting parents mill about, talk, and browse while their kids lined up to be dunked in a barrel of water by other kids throwing softballs at a target. There are hundreds of people lining Main Street with their lawn chairs and blankets spread out for a comfortable view of the upcoming parade.

And then the street comes to life, and the most unlikely of sights Caroline or I could have imagined come sauntering by, who ever heard of longhorn cattle being ridden during a parade? Apparently, it’s a thing in Texas.

We’d be amiss to deny that there’s something endearing about being in a small American city for such a wholesome way of celebrating such a day. There’s zero commercialism here, no police cordon keeping the kids from crossing into the street, just families, friends, and members of the community coming together for a day of partying.

Red, white, and blue were everywhere.

Right after the parade, we sprinted over to the courthouse parking lot only to witness our turtle lose but an exciting race it was. Around the corner, a local grocer was selling 25-cent hot dogs, and later in the day, there was water polo, a watermelon feast, and the rodeo got going.

The faces of a random couple in the stands smiling at the Great American Experience. This was Caroline’s first-ever rodeo.

The opening ceremony began with the national anthem and a ride around the arena with the colors of the United States and Texas in tow.

Men attempted to ride the bulls and broncos, but mostly, they were busy picking themselves up out of the dirt after colliding with it.

While the tots tried their hand at riding sheep, the slightly older kids tried staying atop bucking miniature donkeys.

This is why I had to stay away from the snacks on offer at the courthouse; I knew I had another date at the Cattle Exchange for the last perfect ribeye I’d be having on this trip.

Canadian, Texas

With uncertainty about the fireworks show this evening due to the threat of rain, all we could do was hang out till evening or head back to the ranch; so instead, we took a short tour of the town and then headed up the road.

Approaching Higgins, Texas

The horizon is looking rather foreboding.

Caroline Wise on the Oklahoma / Texas border

Drove up to Higgins, Texas, where we crossed into Oklahoma.

Rainy Oklahoma

We didn’t get far before a flooding road turned us around.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Texas State Line

No matter, now we get to visit Texas twice on this 4th of July.

Approaching Canadian, Texas

Things started drying up, and with the glimmer of sunshine out there, we started thinking we just might see some fireworks tonight.

Fireworks in Canadian, Texas

Sure enough, following some late-day duck races, fireworks lit up the early evening sky, and after 12 hours of fun and observance of Independence Day, we were on our way back to the ranch for our last night in Canadian, Texas.

Arrington Ranch in Canadian, Texas

The Arrington Ranch Bed and Breakfast in Canadian, Texas as seen in the Tom Hanks film Castaway

Last night I shared a photo of the now-famous sign in front of this ranch, made so by Tom Hanks in the film Cast Away. We are at Arrington Ranch in Canadian, Texas. This house was built by Civil War soldier G.W. Arrington in 1919; his descendants, Mike and Debbie Arrington, rent out the five beautifully furnished bedrooms for only $70 each.

Update: While the previous bit of writing is from the original post, most of what you’ll find here will be from a 2023 update, including every one of the photos below. In the old text, the day was compressed into 333 words, and I’ll be using those as the basis for what else I share about the images I’ve added, but just know that some of the impressions will be coming out of a head that experienced these things 17 years ago. Since the time of our visit out to the Panhandle of Texas to celebrate America’s birthday, the Arrington’s have ceased renting the property. My daughter and I drove by back in 2021 and saw that the place was starting to show its age. I can only guess that the upkeep has exceeded its potential. This state of decay, like that which affects so much across our country, is a sad and tragic comment about what we hold dear.

Last night, we let ourselves in the house, and it turned out that we’d be the only guests for the long weekend; how could this be? This morning, we met Debbie Arrington, who invited us over to their main home. After saying hello to the horses, we headed over to meet Mike Arrington.

Now introduced to both of the Arringtons, we took a walk over a small corner of their thousands of acres of ranch; along the way, we learned about how drought and the misuse of Texas aquifers were destroying ranch life for many in Texas. Mike shared the high costs of having hay shipped in from as far as Canada, yep to Canadian, Texas, and how it made cattle ranching increasingly more difficult. While he may be fortunate to have the Washita River right here on his land, that’s not enough to care for the 5,400 acres of land that require rain to support cattle. We were invited for a swim but being the idiots we have been known to be, opted not to: a mistake.

The Arringtons are part of a group working to preserve their little corner of Texas called the Texas Prairie Rivers Region. After seeing their population dwindle in the 1980s, some ranch owners got together to save Canadian from decrepitude and have since made great inroads in revitalizing this once-thriving corner of Texas.

We’re going south based on the recommendation of Mike and Debbie that the breakfast near and far would be found out there.

Along the way, we’ll have to take inventory of the old houses in ruin peaking through their windows, where we could find them, and seeing what was what.

Some of the places were well aerated with no glass left at all.

At this time in our lives, we were still movie nerds, so being here at the intersection of FM-48 and FM-1268, where the last scene of Cast Away was shot pressed all of our buttons. But this was not where breakfast was to be found.

From there, we had five more miles further south before reaching the small town of Mobeetie, which is also the oldest town in the panhandle. We are at the Cowboy Oasis, a place that created a long-lasting memory, not due to the food but because of the patrons. We walked into no fanfare from the many cowboys in this place but after others walked in, the assembled diners would greet the next person or people as they passed through the front door. Feeling a bit neglected until we left, as we stood up to depart, I introduced everyone to Caroline and me, and with that, the dozen or so people at the Cowboy Oasis wished us a good day, letting us leave with big smiles on our faces for becoming part of the in-crowd.

If there was a map of homes not trashed by people but in a state of natural decay, I’d take that road trip.

We are at the Mobeetie Jail Museum, which is also home to some of the artifacts that remain from Fort Elliot, including the old flag pole that stands near this old cell.

On our quest to see a bit more of the panhandle, we are on a loop drive that is taking us to Pampa and points beyond. This is the Laketon Wheat Growers grain elevator that is obviously no longer in use.

Somewhere out in this vast openness, we drove over to Fritch, Texas, with the hopes of visiting the Alibates Flint Quarries but were foiled by the need for a reservation. Maybe another time.

And so we drove and drove because that’s what you do in Texas.

View from Elsie Road in Panhandle, Texas, on our way back to Canadian.

Ferg’s Cafe in Miami, Texas, is as open as this sign is well cared for (it’s not).

If you only know Texas from a drive across Interstate 10, you too might find Texas to be one of the ugliest states in America, but there really is a lot more to it.

I’m fairly sure we are on FM-2266 heading into a local park.

We are here to see trees and dragonflies. We were not let down.

This is part of the Gene Howe Wildlife Management Area, helping to make our first full day in the Canadian, Texas area a win.