Splitting Time

Flowers from Tonopah Rob's Vegetable Farm in Tonopah, Arizona

The vacation after the vacation is over, and it’s time to get back to something or other, but I am still looking for what that something is. What is certain is that on December 16th, I’ll take over watching Sonal’s little Indian and English Grocery Store until Christmas Eve. Today, I visited the farm out in Tonopah, Rob’s place. Since my great uncle’s broken hip, I’ve not had much time to volunteer on the farm, and it doesn’t look as though I’ll find an opportunity before February to get out there as much as I would like to with our trip to Yellowstone in January and all of its requisite preparations still ahead.

Earthues in Seattle

Seattle, Washington

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being (mostly) written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Here we are in Seattle, Washington, on the 71st day that we’ve been out traveling this year and the last vacation day of the year. You might wonder why we hadn’t just flown into Portland, Oregon, as so much of our trip happened down on the Oregon Coast. Well, it’s a combination of things. Maybe first and foremost will be our first stop today, which you’ll learn about shortly, but there’s also the consideration of plane ticket cost, whether the flight is non-stop, and the price of the rental car at the airport we fly into. We have to keep in mind that while gasoline cost alone might make it cheaper to drive, there is also the cost of about three extra nights to drive back and forth, depreciation on the car, and time denied along the coast.

Seattle, Washington

While Caroline flew into Seattle years ago to attend an introduction to e-books put on by Microsoft back in 1999, this is our first time taking a few hours to explore the city together. Come to think of it, I don’t think Caroline saw anything of the city as she went directly to Redmond. This introduction will be incredibly brief as by 3:30, we’ll be on our way to the airport to drop the rental car and be there in time for our early evening flight back to Phoenix. To those of the future, our roundtrip flight cost $590 for the two of us and took about 3 hours in each direction.

Caroline shopping at Earthues in Seattle, Washington

Today was a big day for Caroline: We visited Earthues in Seattle, Washington. For fiber dyers, Earthues is Mecca, a veritable Harrods of natural color extracts and dyes. This small out-of-the-way shop is unique in all of America as one of the best sources of dyeing materials and what is most likely one of the world’s most extensive libraries of dyeing techniques. Founder Michele Wipplinger was not in today as the shop is usually closed on Mondays, but her partner in the business, Kathy Hattori, had made an appointment with us prior to our visit to open, especially for Caroline.

Earthues in Seattle, Washington

Kathy and Caroline got right to work looking at what dyes were on hand and how much Caroline might like to leave with. Typical of German sensibility, Caroline tried to remain conservative, but after some needling and prodding to remind her that this was possibly her one good opportunity to get what she wanted, she let caution fly and bought a near-lifetime supply of every color. Add in some mordants and some henna, and she was set to go. What she did not let me know was that she was eyeballing two rather pricey books.

Earthues in Seattle, Washington

Guilt shamed her into deciding she couldn’t have them – until, like on so many other occasions, regret after getting home had her wishing she’d bought them as, while expensive, they were less costly here than at other sources. Lunch was taken at the Sunlight Cafe, a vegetarian place a few miles away recommended by Inga, who works at Earthues.

(Sadly, in 2014, the shop closed, and the business turned to mail order only.)

Pike Place Market in Seattle, Washington

My big moment in Seattle was our visit to Pikes Place Market, where we stumbled upon Beechers Handmade Cheese company, which made visiting the first Starbucks nearly irrelevant.

Pike Place Market in Seattle, Washington

First, some background, though: on our first day of this trip, while in Portland, we stopped at a store called New Seasons for supplies and bought a block of Beechers’ Flagship Reserve and just loved it. We had wondered along the way if we’d be able to find more of this cheese on our trip when, just before leaving back to Phoenix, Arizona, there it was – the factory itself. You should be so lucky someday to try their grilled cheese sandwich – yowza.

Pike Place Market in Seattle, Washington

This palate of color and diversity of fresh fruit and veggies, not to mention the meat and fish out of frame, pushes home the fact that we live in not only a cultural desert but a bit of a food desert, too. Then again, Seattle has over 300 cloudy days a year compared to Phoenix, with about 300 sunny days per year. It’s not always easy to maintain perspective when confronted with such a riot of experiences while on vacation.

Umpqua to Siletz Bay

Umpqua Lighthouse State Park in Reedsport, Oregon

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being (mostly) written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Our last day on the Oregon Coast started in our rental yurt at Umpqua Lighthouse State Park. This view is from the overlook in front of the lighthouse, and between us and the ocean, you’ll find many an offroad enthusiast with some kind of vehicle racing over the sand.

Umpqua Lighthouse State Park in Reedsport, Oregon

These romantic artifacts from our past survive both as beacons beckoning us to remember the past and drawing those of us attracted to the light still visible from another age.

Siltcoos Beach in Florence, Oregon

With 375 miles ahead of us today, we will not be able to stop everywhere, but that doesn’t mean we won’t push things. We walked over the sand dunes here at Siltcoos Beach, hanging out for about a half-hour.

Siltcoos Beach in Florence, Oregon

Maybe because we don’t live here, we have to hold fast to these images and memories, immortalizing them on these pages so we can always refer to them. I wonder if those who live in these places put as much emphasis on seeing intently what might be too easy to take for granted.

Jessie M. Honeyman Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Another short drive and we pulled over to Honeyman State Park, a park that we had somehow missed stopping at on any of our previous visits to Oregon. The air was still, and with the sky speckled with light, thin clouds, we were treated to a perfect reflection of trees, sky, sand dune, and clouds on the small lake.

Prichard Wayside in Florence, Oregon

That’s the Siuslaw River Bridge over there, and we’re at the Prichard Wayside on the south side of Florence as we take this opportunity to see this bridge from a different angle. If time allowed, we’d make it a project to capture all of the coastal bridges of Oregon from various perspectives and different lighting situations; heck, I should include that we’d like to do the same for the nine lighthouses out here, too.

Big Creek Bridge in Lane County, Oregon

Big Creek Bridge is just north of Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park, which we are indeed passing by without a brief return visit.

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

The same could not be said about our next stop as we pulled into the parking lot at Devils Churn for a brief stop.

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

I swear, we’ll only be here a few minutes.

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

Yes, Caroline, I’m almost done. I think.

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

But how can we leave when things are this spectacular?

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

Well, it required nearly an hour for us to pull ourselves away and get back on the road. Let me correct this before Caroline does: it took nearly an hour of prodding. In Yachats, we drove next to the bay and marveled at the rough surf under the deep blue skies and then had a lunch of clam chowder at Mo’s Annex in Newport. Obviously, there are no photos of this segment of the drive as maybe, just maybe, I was a bit too indulgent at the Churn.

View from Devils Punch Bowl area in Otter Rock, Oregon

In Otter Rock, we threw a last look into the Devil’s Punchbowl.

View from Devils Punch Bowl area in Otter Rock, Oregon

No, I won’t get lost in the crashing surf here, too; I know we still have about 300 miles ahead of us, and it’s after lunch.

View from Devils Punch Bowl area in Otter Rock, Oregon

Yeah, but I would have missed this one had I jumped back in the car.

View from Devils Punch Bowl area in Otter Rock, Oregon

We’ve only been here for about 15 minutes.

View from Devils Punch Bowl area in Otter Rock, Oregon

That is a gutsy surfer on a good 8-foot wave on a late fall day in these cold northern waters. Now we can get back to the car, and we’ll just keep going all the way to Seattle for our flight home.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

Wouldn’t you know it, we ran into another distraction in Depoe Bay, where we watched water shooting no less than sixty feet into the air. This shot is not of that 60-footer; just keep scrolling.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

Getting closer…

Depoe Bay, Oregon

A spouting cone was working hard as the tide was at just the right height for this horn to spout a jet of misty water high in the air, accompanied by the onlookers’ oohs and aahs. With the perfect shot in the camera, we can take our drive north seriously now.

Rocks rising above the water in Siletz Bay, Oregon

By the time we reached Siletz Bay, the sun was low in the sky, and we were trying to convince ourselves that we really should stop making all these roadside visits, but the day was so beautiful, and we suckers for beauty were mere moths drawn to the light. Click here to compare to the photo I took of the same place three days before.

Tillamook, Oregon

Under a pink, lavender, and dark blue sky, we reached Tillamook with the hopes of nabbing one more sandwich from the Blue Heron Cheese Company, but unfortunately, we were more than a few minutes too late. We arrived in Seattle, Washington, sometime late in the evening with heads full of terrific Oregon memories from our 10th visit to the state.

Carl G. Washburne – Rainforest

Yachats, Oregon

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being (mostly) written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Beautiful Yachats, Oregon, which we should call home in retirement. (Well, that was our thinking in 2008 when things were still affordable up along the Oregon Coast. Nowadays, in 2022, as I’m expanding this post, that dream is no longer possible due to private equity and AirBnB destroying the ability to find affordability in places where big profit can be exploited.)

Devils Churn in Yachats, Oregon

The ferocity of the Devil’s Churn persuaded us that we didn’t need to spend another minute here and that we should just get down the road, or else be trapped for hours while I aim to take the most perfect photo of the chaos.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Having visited so many of these locations on prior outings, we now have a repertoire of places requiring revisits. Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park is one of those destinations in our ever-growing list of must-return-to sites.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

From sand dunes to rocky coastal mountains, the Oregon Coast is a treasure trove for exploration, but here at the Carl Washburne State Park, a lush rainforest is roadside and yet rarely visited. While the opposite side of the road, with its Hobbit trail to the mile-long sandy beach, is popular, the China Creek trail sees few visitors. This works out fine for Caroline and me, for we appreciate the quiet, the solitude, and the solemnity of this overgrown, mushroom and moss-infested forest.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Elk are said to inhabit the area along the trail, but they have remained elusive to us so far; mushrooms, though, are here in abundance.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Mushrooms come in all shapes and sizes. Imagine that these were elephants or unicorns, and there’d be millions lining up to witness the spectacle. Well, lucky us that people don’t find the same enjoyment in the rain forest so it’s all ours.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Or maybe Oregon should import gorillas into these environments, and then the crowds would come, though that would just ruin our pilgrimages to this beautiful little corner of the coast.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Ha, I should point out that this part of the trail isn’t even in the deepest part of the forest yet; that’s still coming up.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Just past these mushrooms.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

And then, blam, you are in the moss-covered three-handled family gradunza. That’s right, if you ever wondered what Dr. Seuss took influence from, this was it.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Our happy place.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

If we were small enough, our happy place might be under this mushroom, but we are giants.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Though not so giant as to compete with the trees.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Nor as big as the sun that shines down these rays into the trees, casting shadows within the fog.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

So, the best we can be are puny people in awe of how incredible not only the place is, but how fortunate we are to realize we can be here to be energized in the magic of light and shadow.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

In Arizona, the spider webs are invisible in our zero-humidity, dry climate, but up here, they are gathers of both insects and dew.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Maybe I’m getting too carried away with the god-ray photos?

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Well then, here’s a salamander taking a break with the green world around it reflected in its eyes.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Wait a minute, have I shared a photo previously of this exact location? Probably, but I’ve also taken a thousand photos of my wife and shared them too.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Not a mushroom but an alien intelligence sent here to observe us.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

I sure have created myself a task I often feel ill-prepared for by adding all of these photos. I’ve endeavored to include a corresponding amount of something to say about each, but that’s difficult, especially considering that I’ve likely written about the general area and impressions a dozen or more times.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Looking back at these memories, I see the forest as it was and still is; Caroline looks almost the same, while I’ve grown thinner and grayer. We still have that green camera bag, Caroline only recently retired that flannel shirt we bought at Euro-Disney in 1992, and she wore at our Las Vegas wedding, and we are still not quite satisfied that we’ve experienced enough of Oregon, and so this November 2022, like so many other Novembers, we’ll be back, likely on this exact trail.

Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

We’ve often wondered how many of our photos are from essentially the exact same spot. For that matter, how many of these words have been written verbatim time and again?

The Hobbit Trail at the Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

After starting the China Creek Trail at the trailhead near the park office and covering the Valley trail, you may cross over Highway 101, where you can choose to hike to Heceta Head Lighthouse or turn right over the Hobbit Trail, returning to the park entrance on the beach (hopefully at low tide).

Hobbit Beach next to Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

This is one of the majestic photos that defy my belief that I captured it. Caroline should chime in here about now and inform me that, in fact, she took it.

[Come on, John, everybody knows that only you take nice photos ^_^  Caroline]

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Hobbit Beach next to Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

Two selfies of us in one post can only mean I’m giving into the nostalgia of things, or maybe I enjoy getting lost in the romantic notion that those two smiling faces have been sharing space in front of the camera for so many years.

Hobbit Beach next to Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park in Florence, Oregon

This guy or gal is an uncommon sight for us to see on a beach in Oregon, especially at this time of year.

Winchester Bay in Reedsport, Oregon

I believe we are at Winchester Bay, which would make sense with our lodging being just around the corner.

Umpqua Lighthouse State Park in Reedsport, Oregon

If this is the Umpqua River Lighthouse, and it is, then we must be staying in yet another yurt because just behind that lighthouse is the Umpqua Lighthouse State Park. Apparently, this was our first time staying at this park, as far as the old reservation confirmations I still have in email. We were in yurt C53, and some years later, we stayed in B18, followed in 2019 and 2021 when we stayed in C35, which is the same yurt we’ll be occupying in November 2022.

Devil’s Churn

Yaquina Bay Bridge in Newport, Oregon

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being (mostly) written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken, so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Before crossing the Yaquina Bay Bridge from Newport over to South Beach, I just had to grab this photo but couldn’t avoid the lens flare; this image was the best of the lot.

South Beach Fish Market in South Beach, Oregon

Today’s breakfast was a yummy, albeit less than totally nutritious, combination of fresh fried fish and french fries from the South Beach Fish Market. The sampler plate featuring halibut, tuna, and salmon made for a great hot breakfast that won’t likely be duplicated in our desert environs of Phoenix any time soon.

Ona Beach at Brian Booth State Park near Seal Rock, Oregon

A short walk at the Ona Beach at Brian Booth State Park for bird watching was next up.

Ona Beach at Brian Booth State Park near Seal Rock, Oregon

The way our travel plans often work up here is that we look for places we’d overlooked on previous visits, but then something catches our attention, and we act on impulse, finding somewhere to park and venturing out. At other times, we had places that were especially attractive on previous visits and couldn’t resist their allure to return as we were about to drive by while skipping new spots, often with some small amount of regret.

Ona Beach at Brian Booth State Park near Seal Rock, Oregon

While we might know logically that there are only so many configurations of grass, water, mushrooms, moss, trees, birds, and other elements that decorate a place, they are always new and exciting to us. Just look at that log, and its reflection in the water, spectacular isn’t it?

Ona Beach at Brian Booth State Park near Seal Rock, Oregon

The first thing you see is the grey heron, but look just below it.

Foam being shot into the air from the roiling waves below at Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

Uh oh, it’s the addiction danger place where it’s all too easy to get lost watching waves crash here at the Devils Churn. Located in the Cape Perpetua Scenic Area, this wedge of basalt rock carved into the mountainy coast works to create a phenomenon when incoming waves swell in the narrowing wedge and turn into a frothy frosting-like foam before plowing into the ever-tightening rocks and shooting upwards of forty, fifty, at times what looks like one-hundred feet into the air like a geyser.

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

With each swell, the water level piles up until a break in the waves allows the seawater to start exiting the slot, but just as quickly, another wave comes in, plowing over what is trying to escape.

Foam being shot into the air from the roiling waves below at Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

It is at the point where forces meet that these momentary sculptures rise and fall in a blink of an eye, never to be duplicated again.

Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

During high tide, we watched more than one person stand a wee bit too close to the roiling waters and get sprayed for their foolhardiness. One man was knocked off his feet – scary, to say the least, as no one would ever dare jump into those waters to save someone. On the bottom left of this image, in the dark rocks, are two people risking it all.

Foam being shot into the air from the roiling waves below at Devils Churn Cape Perpetua Scenic Area on the coast of Oregon

As the waters shoot aloft and churn, this wicked thick foam rides atop the waves, adding a deceptive quiet calm to the seething waters below and mimicking the appearance of those waves made famous by the Japanese artist Katsushika Hokusai in the woodblock print titled The Great Wave.

Oregon Coast off Highway 101

After hours of watching the Devils Churn, we had some remaining daylight for further sightseeing.

Oregon Coast off Highway 101

The road south was the way we traveled, though we’d be staying north of here.

Oregon Coast off Highway 101

Somewhere over there is Agate Creek, lost in the fog. The view next to Highway 101 is taken from the location of the next photo.

John Wise sitting next to the ocean at Brays Point, Oregon

No, this is not the “Braying Ass Point,” just Brays Point.

Heceta Head Lighthouse near Florence, Oregon, is the furthest south we’ll travel tonight.

Okay, just one more photo of the beautiful dark emerald sea, and we’ll be on our way.

Caroline Wise at the Drift Inn Hotel and Restaurant in Yachats, Oregon

We had some laundry to deal with before grabbing dinner back up in Yachats, where we’d be staying. Later, we enjoyed a fantastic dinner at the historic pub and cafe, The Drift Inn with some truly great musical accompaniment offered by the band Coin of the Realm. Zach Konowalchuk on violin (passed away at 24 years old, just four years after we met him), David Konowalchuk on guitar, and Evans Longshore on bass made up the trio who played us traditional foot-tapping Ukrainian folk melodies. Prior to this evening, we had not listened to Ukrainian music but were so impressed we bought all three of Zach’s CDs. Thanks, guys, for making our night so memorable and fun.

Clay Myers Natural Area

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. While there was a paragraph or two posted way back then with a single photo, there were no other notes taken so most of what is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us.

Another beautiful day on the Oregon Coast. Not that this implies a sunny warm day – remember this is Oregon – but nonetheless, it was a beautiful day.

We watched the sunrise from an overlook at the Nestucca Bay National Wildlife Refuge that offered a mighty view of the ocean to the west and the sun peeking through clouds and over the mountains to the east.

Geese in the fields below us began their chorus of honking before lifting off in small groups on their quest for breakfast.

Pacific City Beach and Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area are out there in the early morning sun.

Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

The Nestucca Bay National Wildlife Refuge viewing platform is top-notch,

Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

Following the chilly sunrise, we took a short drive to the Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island for the Island Loop Trail hike.

Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

This short 1.4 mile (2.25km) trail leads us past a wetlands overlook, through a coastal forest, to the estuary overlook and beachside.

Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

As I’ve said, it is years later as I write a lot of this, in this case, it’s October 2022 and just a month before we will find ourselves in Oregon again. Looking at these images I can’t help but head over to Alltrails to search for some hikes we’ve never taken over the many excursions along the coast. So, instead of writing I’m dreaming, which is kind of like being in Oregon anyway.

Wild mushrooms trail side at Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

Along the path, we spied hundreds of wild mushrooms and various sorts of fungi including the most intriguing one, a red-tipped black and grey fungus. Sadly, it was quite difficult to photograph hence the mushroom picture offered above in its stead.

Wild mushrooms trail side at Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

We’ve likely seen all of these mushrooms before, but that doesn’t stop us from finding them intriguing every time we encounter them.

Wild mushrooms trail side at Clay Myers State Natural Area at Whalen Island, Oregon

Looks like elephant skin to me.

Siletz Bay on a foggy day is still better than no Siletz Bay.

And the moments of stormy seas never fail to bring raw excitement as the ocean attacks the shore. Driving South we decided that Highway 101 was too busy for us and gave the Otter Crest Loop Road a try. There were some stretches where we felt we were the only people outside. Probably because the wind and rain were picking up.

Hey Caroline, “You sure you want to be out in that blustery rain and risk having our umbrella torn to shreds?”

Contrary to what might be seen at first blush, this is a beautiful shot of vibrantly green forest that without the presence of such thick fog, would have been framed by deep blue sky. As it is, it really is just a bunch of gray with hints of trees.

The trail alludes to the places we cannot go while something out in the mystery of that forbidden place wants to draw us in.

Most of the rest of the day was whittled away exploring the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area and Lighthouse. Unfortunately, the facilities were about to close so we could not enter the visitor center and you need to be on a tour to enter the lighthouse.

Nah, that doesn’t look ominous to me. How could those dark heavy clouds be anything more than some thick fog?

A couple of harbor seals were as eager to check us out as we were them. I can’t get over how super black their eyes looked in this light.

This is our yurt kitchen here at South Beach State Park in Newport. I don’t think I pointed it out earlier, but this trip has been kind of special regarding our meals because I made a serious effort to cook for Caroline every night we’ve been out here. Being vegetarian on the Oregon Coast doesn’t offer her a lot of choices, but my cooking delivers just that much more luxury to her. I don’t mean to brag but she loved it and I think it added to the overall romance we’re sharing out here.