Purvi and Krupesh

Purvi and Krupesh Shah

Caroline and I visited Indo Euro Foods this afternoon to meet up with Purvi and Krupesh. This was the first time Purvi and I met since she and Krupesh were married earlier this year. Also at the store were Rinku and her husband Yagnesh and so with all six of us together we fixed a date for the following Friday to get together for dinner. On the menu would be bitter melon, undhiyu, and a special beet salad Purvi makes. I tried the salad some time ago as Caroline attended a ceremony called Katha at their house and brought some home for me as I was watching Indo Euro while Sonal was in India on vacation. It was great meeting Purvi today, she is very comfortable to be around and joke with, no shyness with this woman.

Friends of the Agua Fria

Approaching a ruin atop a hill near Prescott, Arizona

Today was the annual meeting of the Friends of Agua Fria National Monument, and as new members, Caroline and I were invited to attend. Over the years, on our travels across America, we, on occasion run across these “Friends of” groups. From the events they have scheduled and the programs they arrange, it seemed to me that Caroline and I were missing out on something. So when I learned of the Agua Fria group, we became members. This year’s annual meeting took place in a restaurant in Mayer, Arizona.

Native American ruin on a hilltop near Prescott, Arizona

We arrived at 8:00 for the coffee and breakfast part of the meeting. The meeting itself didn’t begin until 9:00. First order of business was the budget – which proved mildly contentious. Next up was info about the voting for a new board of directors. A presentation by a local grad student studying “race track” markings near native settlements took us up to lunch, during which a number of prizes were raffled off. Afterward, the election results were announced along with the winners of the fundraising silent auction. Then, finally, it was time for the part Caroline and I were really looking forward to.

Fragment of a broken metate near a Native American ruin site not far from Prescott, Arizona

Today’s activities included a local hike. Our destination was a Native American archaeological site on a nearby hillside. About a dozen of the 60 or so meeting participants joined our guide for the drive over a very rough road and short yet steep trail up the hill. Our Kia was the last car that I would dare take up this rutted, narrow sliver of a road, but the gentleman leading the hike had no problem letting us take over his back seat. A retired guy from Wisconsin nabbed the front seat. Once the vehicles were parked, we saw remnants of pit houses and a few pottery shards. But that was nothing in comparison to what we found on the hilltop.

Caroline Wise holding a pottery shard.

Crumbling stone walls, hundreds of pottery shards, a fragment from a broken metate, and more than one broken mano were scattered about, and the view from up here was commanding. The tour guide and the other attendees wanted to believe this was some kind of defensive position, but I don’t buy that; I think that, just like us, someone really loved the view. Considering that a few hundred years ago, the native population was quite small and scattered about, if a dozen Native Americans were trekking over the surrounding desert, who would risk losing 3 or 4 members of the group, possibly destroying its viability to survive? My interpretation has a bunch of folks making food with the mano metates, barbecuing, drinking from the pottery, catching a tan by day, and being dazzled by the stars at night.

Yesterday’s Buzzard – Today’s Chicken

Fried chicken dinner, tastes like hot buzzard

I would have never admitted this but my results were so outstanding I just had to be open and confess this extraordinary find. Remember that dead buzzard from yesterday’s blog posting? I didn’t just stop to take its photo, that bird came home with me. After six hours marinading away the funny smell, I coated up the parts and got to deep-frying it. I swear this was going to go to the grave with me but spank me with a drum stick, this old buzzard cooked up and tasted at least as good as chicken. And, as it turns out, the buzzard has a pronounced gizzard which cooked up to make an exquisite gravy base that complimented the mashed red potatoes. I kept a huge glass of Kool-Aid at the ready to wash down any foul tastes in case I found myself gagging. Open wide, here it comes and so it was that I dipped into the golden brown crunchy fried buzzard wing thinking there wasn’t much meat there should it prove too much for my pallet. Holy mackerel, that’s some damned yummy bird. Pardon me if any readers should find this slightly gross, but I learned long ago from a fan boat driver in Florida that there are many ways to enjoy what nature has on the menu.

Death’s Vacuum

Dead Buzzard

When your lowly job is to feed on the dead, upon your own demise the rot you embody leaves your corpse alone to turn to dust as the other scavengers avoid your stench. Along the roads of Arizona, it is not uncommon to see the buzzard snarfing morsels off a rabbit pelt left parched and flat after a good tenderizing from the passing trucks. That shriveled dead coyote that was there yesterday will be but a tuft of fur in a day or two. Snakes and other birds disappear in hours, but this ugly malcontent who while alive used to belly up and chow on the fetid remains of mystery roadkill meal du jour cannot find takers on a hot summer day, its shriveling head baking all day into the night. I passed this bird in the desert for the first time more than five days ago, today it looks much the way it did then. I must surmise that even buzzards have standards and won’t stoop to cannibalism. I wonder if its meat tastes like chicken.

Sidney

Sidney Clay originally from New Orleans now living in Phoenix, Arizona - survivor of hurricane Katrina

Meet Sidney Clay, born in the month of March 1942; he’s 68 years old and lived in New Orleans, Louisiana, for the better part of his life. Five years ago, early in the morning, Sidney was asleep in his apartment on St. Charles Avenue west of the French Quarter, surrounded by the floods brought on by Hurricane Katrina, when he awoke to the sound of helicopters. Stepping outside, he thought fresh drinking water was being delivered, but he was wrong. That helicopter crew “rescued” Sidney. Carrying not much more than the clothes on his back, he found himself airborne for the first time in his life. The next stop was New Orleans airport, where he found out they were evacuating him to Corpus Christi, Texas. Once in Corpus Christi, it was discovered that Sidney had family in Phoenix, Arizona, and off he was whisked to the middle of the desert.

He left with nothing and arrived with nothing. But this would turn out to be less than nothing. This man left school in Lafayette, Louisiana during the 7th grade, left home at age 17, and went right to work for Pendleton Security as a security guard in New Orleans. For nearly 40 years, Sidney held this one job. He kept to himself for the most part and lived quietly.

Sidney is not a drinking man, never was. He’s been to the hospital twice, once for high blood pressure and the last time for food poisoning caused by pork; he hasn’t eaten pork since. Jail has never been offered the opportunity to host Sidney; as a matter of fact, he has only had one traffic ticket and will likely never have another, seeing he hasn’t driven a car in more than 25 years. Sidney is not a well-traveled man; early in his life, he made two bus trips to Atlanta and one to California. He reminisced that seeing Underground Atlanta was one of the most amazing events in his life.

Besides missing his home, he longs for a return to Pat O’Briens for one more dinner, his favorite. What he misses the most, though, is the music of New Orleans. Here in Phoenix, we have no buskers, also known as street musicians, and where music is performed, it is done so for money, of which Sidney has very little.

You see, on that day, Sidney was uprooted and left with nothing; through a glitch in the bureaucratic system, Sidney’s social security payments were interrupted. It has taken him five years to resolve the issues that stopped the checks. It is supposed to be next month when the money begins to flow again. Almost exactly five years ago today, Sidney tried staying with his daughter, but life alone and a house full of grandchildren left Sidney uncomfortable, and one day, he walked out.

Turns out that while Sidney was staying with his daughter and walking up and down Bell Road here in Phoenix, he ran into a homeless man with the name Floyd. I have seen Floyd many times over the years; even have a photo of him here on my blog, taken in May 2004. Floyd helped Sidney understand living on the street, which eased his transition from self-sufficiency in New Orleans to dependency on his daughter to ultimately being homeless himself. For the next three years, Sidney lived outdoors.

But Sidney is not your average homeless guy. At roughly 4:00 am he signs up at a Temporary Labor office to get a high spot on the list of people looking for any type of manual labor on offer. He normally knows by 6:00 if he’ll have work, but he might have to hang out until 11:00 am, too. From the efforts of his labor, he earns about $35 for the day. On good weeks, he might get three to five days of work.

On the days he can scrounge the money, he has found someone with a small apartment who lets him have a room for $10 a night, no money, no bed. The last time Sidney slept street side was about three months ago. His typical day, when not waiting on work or working, he walks Bell Road from Cave Creek Road to 40th Street and rarely wanders from this path. Along the way, he picks up aluminum cans and, from the generosity of some folks, picks up a few dollars that, if not required for a room, he’ll spend either at Denny’s or Whataburger.

If and when the social security mess is finally cleared up, he’ll take an apartment and try to return to a simple and quiet life. What is remarkable about this man, who was first homeless at age 64, is his gracious and friendly manner and his positive and grateful outlook. When I asked him if he had anything to be happy about, he told me the best thing in life was God waking him up every morning. I then asked him what the most important event, date, person, or historical occurrence he had seen since he was born was; his answer was, “The greatest thing I have come to see and know is that America is the greatest place on earth.” Sure is wonderful running into someone who is just happy being alive.

The Only Nice Sunset

Sunset in Phoenix, Arizona

My camera is with me often. I look far and wide for that scene that will demand my attention and stand out against all others. Maybe age has brought cynicism and I am no longer able to appreciate simple beauty. Or maybe a city of cinder block walls punctuated with strip malls leaves the imagination in deficit. Phoenix has become a wasteland to my eyes. I want to see the city I live in with a new perspective but over and over again I look on with mindless disinterest. For beauty, I must look up and out. With too narrow a view and in close up, Phoenix is a blight on a desert paved over for the masses to find their beauty in a three-bedroom two-car garage track home on the corner of Nameless Street and Faceless Road. At least we still have the sky.