Leaving L.A.

The sun is still low on the horizon this early holiday Monday morning on Wilshire Blvd. The streets are empty.

It’s Memorial Day. Monday morning, and the streets are still empty. The first sun rays are making their way to ground level as we are about to start our ride home. These quiet desolate occasions in a city that is almost always abuzz sure is a peculiar sight. This is a part of Los Angeles few have the opportunity to see. By 9:00 a.m., the roads will be full, shops will be open, and the frenzy that is found in this metropolis will be back in full swing.

Looking south on Wilshire Blvd toward Santa Monica and the Pacific Ocean just about 4 miles away on an early holiday morning in May

The Wilshire Motel is on the right. About four miles straight ahead is the furthest west we can travel without requiring a boat. Just down the street is Santa Monica, and beyond that, the Pacific Ocean. If time allowed, we would head that way for one more walk in the sand, but we were expecting heavy traffic on the return to Phoenix as we were not alone in heading to southern California. San Diego, Las Vegas, and Los Angeles are probably the three most popular weekend destinations for those of us who need to get away from Phoenix for a break. As I look at this empty thoroughfare, I can easily imagine a no-car day in L.A. where, on that occasion, only bicycles would be allowed. All across the southland (as it is known locally), people could explore the various interconnecting cities in the luxury of quiet that we are able to experience on these rare holiday mornings when most people opt to sleep in.

The Original Pantry Cafe has been open for business since 1924 - it is a landmark in downtown Los Angeles.

Well, we weren’t going to leave L.A. without at least a little bit of fanfare. The first stop before getting on Interstate 10 eastward was at The Original Pantry Cafe. I’ve probably told the story on my blog before, but here it is again. This place has been open 24/7 since 1924 – it has never closed. I have been coming here since 1981, and Caroline made her first visit somewhere in the late 1990s. Besides some furniture repairs and equipment replacements, I don’t believe much has changed about this place in the past 87 years. The breakfasts are huge and very inexpensive. The nostalgic feelings from a time lost are still alive and kicking at this landmark. With bellies, our minds, and experiences full for one long weekend, we leave for the 388-mile (628 km) drive home.

Another Perfect L.A. Day

Caroline Wise enjoying breakfast at Zabies Cafe in Santa Monica, California

Los Angeles is one of those places where you can feel like you have a purposeful life as a part of the city, that your existence is intertwined with the culture that surrounds you – as opposed to a city where you simply exist as an element within the hive. This was our first visit to Zabie’s Neighborhood Cafe in Santa Monica, and the owners welcomed us as though we were familiar regulars coming in as we would on any other Sunday; you won’t find that in Phoenix very often.

Zabies Cafe in Santa Monica, California

Caroline and I both ordered the Whole Grain Pancakes but couldn’t choose if we wanted blueberry, strawberry, or banana, so we asked for all three, and that is what we got. Breakfast at Zabie’s was perfect, starting us off on the right track to enjoy our Sunday.

On the south side of the pier at Santa Monica beach

It was still too early to do much in L.A. – even in go-go Los Angeles. So there was but one thing to do, head on over to the beach for an early morning walk in the sand and surf. In a few hours, as the day warms up, this beach, like most others along the southern California coast, will fill up with worshippers of the sun. My preference is for a quiet walk on an uncongested strand where, for a moment, the beach is an idyllic island setting, and it is all mine to enjoy.

A stop sign with a sticker attached below the word stop, it reads, "Eating Animals"

Free parking is not always easy to find in L.A.; as a matter of fact, just around the corner from this stop sign that asks us to “Stop Eating Animals,” we saw our first parking meter that allows the use of a debit or credit card in addition to coins. We kept on driving into the neighborhood and found an empty parking spot free of charge. Approaching this stop sign, we saw a placard outside a small duplex advertising a two-bedroom unit for rent. I called the number to see what they were asking for, $2,400 a month; I choked. We pay less than a third of that in Phoenix – one of the main reasons we put up with our desert town.

Inside the Craft and Folk Art Museum on Wilshire Blvd in Los Angeles, California to see an exhibit by Jennifer Angus titled: All Creatures Great and Small

Years, it took years for Caroline and me to finally make the time to visit the Craft and Folk Art Museum on Wilshire Blvd across the street from the La Brea Tarpits. Every time we drove past this small museum, one or the other of us would sound off the reminder that one of these days, we need to stop in. Today was that day. On the second floor is where the exhibits begin, the museum typically hosts two artists or themes. For three and a half months, the second floor would be dedicated to a bug art exhibit by Jennifer Angus, titled: All Creatures Great and Small.

Inside the Craft and Folk Art Museum on Wilshire Blvd in Los Angeles, California to see an exhibit by Jennifer Angus titled: All Creatures Great and Small

When you walk into the main space, you don’t immediately recognize what you are looking at; it doesn’t even look all that striking from a distance. Then, as you approach and start to see the details of what makes up the exhibit, you are struck. You are looking at insects. Brightly colored and arranged in patterns or made up in scenes within the cases, filling in for what might normally be figures in a dollhouse. Extraordinary and fun.

The artist occupying the third floor was Ann Weber; her exhibit was titled Love and Other Audacities. Ann weaves together large sculptures created from found cardboard. We should have started up here as her work is really nice, but being overwhelmed by the exhibit a floor below, it was hard to change channels from shock and amazement to interest and subtlety.

On Wilshire Blvd in Los Angeles, California

From the museum, we needed to make our way over to the downtown area of L.A.

Wurstkuche in downtown Los Angeles, California - a hot place for an exotic sausage

Time for lunch on our unfolding perfect day. I read about Wurstküche on a blog some time ago. They have become somewhat famous and very busy. The line was longer before I snapped the photo, but then once in the lobby, it snakes through there before you arrive at the cash register and place your order. We split three sausages, the Mango Jalapeno with chicken and turkey and the Rattlesnake & Rabbit with jalapeno – this is one of their signature sausages, and it was yummy. The one sausage we didn’t really enjoy was the Vegetarian Mexican Chipotle. It was too spicy, and we love spicy, but there have to be other outstanding characteristic flavors besides just hot – this sausage didn’t cut the mustard. We also split an order of Belgian fries glazed in white truffle oil with two dipping sauces, the first was Bleu Cheese Walnut and Bacon, and the other was Chipotle Aioli. Caroline topped off her lunch with a rare find, a bottle of Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier from Bamberg, Germany – a smoked beer.

The 2nd Street Tunnel in downtown Los Angeles, California - made famous by a scene in Blade Runner

Over to 2nd Street for a drive through one of our favorite landmarks in L.A. – the 2nd Street Tunnel. If you don’t remember this sight, think Blade Runner, Terminator, and recently the movie Transformers. We have, on previous visits taken a moment to go over to Union Station, another location used in Blade Runner. One of these days, we’ll visit the Bradbury Building, where many of Blade Runner’s interior shots featuring J.F. Sebastian’s apartment were filmed.

A Royal Paulownia in bloom street side in Los Angeles, California

When you live in a desert, splashes of unexpected colors can be startling. We were meandering through the downtown area as we were not in a hurry to get to our next location. Along the way, we came across a bunch of Royal Paulownia trees in bloom – WOW. Our destination was Mitsuwa Marketplace at the corners of Centinela Ave and Venice Blvd. There is a Japanese grocery that also features four or five small restaurants around an open court, and a Japanese bookstore is near the entrance. We stopped here Saturday night with the hope of eating at Santouka Ramen, a highly rated and super popular ramen shop, but we arrived shortly before they closed. As we just had lunch and weren’t hungry, we wouldn’t be eating at Santouka today either; we were going back for Caroline to check the bookstore for their collection of Japanese craft books.

We had come back out towards Santa Monica and West L.A. because we had reservations for the eighth-row center at 4:00 p.m. at The Landmark Theatre on Pico Blvd for a showing of The Tree of Life. This and the Burmese food were the main reasons for our weekend trip to southern California. I was nearly certain that The Tree of Life would not play in Phoenix, or if it did, it might play in near-empty theatres for a week and be gone. As it turned out, the movie ended up playing in Phoenix for almost two months – who knew? Yes, it was worth it, driving to L.A. for a movie – we loved it.

Green Leaves Vegan Vegetarian Restaurant on Santa Monica Blvd in West Hollywood, California

After the movie, we took a drive through Hollywood. By 8:30 p.m., we were getting hungry again, but with so many choices of small, funky restaurants, it was hard to choose one. We had considered Korean in the Koreatown district but kept on driving, looking for something really different. Then, at 8:58 p.m. on a Sunday night, we spot this place called Green Leaves Vegan Vegetarian Restaurant on Santa Monica Blvd in West Hollywood. Drats, it’s 8:58. They’ll never seat us, but we’ll try anyway. Hey, no problem, come on in and have a seat – we are open until 12:00 a.m. Big frowns ensue for the city we live in because nothing is open past 9:00 p.m. on nearly any day of the week in Phoenix. I’ve stated this before on my blog: I am not vegetarian, Caroline is, but that doesn’t stop me from enjoying something different, and for most of the country, vegan and vegetarian is as exotic as finding the cuisine of central Africa. This place rocks, we split the Cha Cha Pumpkin – worth coming back for. The other dish is lost to forgotten memories, but it must have been good, too, because we both want to go back.

Now, this was a perfect day.

Off To Los Angeles

Yoma Myanmar-Thai Restaurant on 713 E. Garvey Ave Monterey Park, California

Up early in Phoenix, Arizona, for a 380-mile drive to Yoma Myanmar-Thai Restaurant in Monterey Park, California. Our first stop in California was just across the street at Shwe Minthamee, where we picked up some desperately needed Burmese ingredients for making salads that we fell in love with back when Little Rangoon was open in Scottsdale. Now well stocked, it was time for lunch. First up, we split a Lahpet Thoke. Laphet is the most famous salad ingredient in Burma (now Myanmar); it is pickled (fermented) green tea leaves. When these tea leaves are mixed with shredded cabbage, tomato, egg, and a mix of crunchy bits – including peanuts, roasted garlic, sesame seeds, and roasted yellow peas, we have the perfect salad – in our book. We had a couple of other items, but it was the salad that made our drive worthwhile.

For dessert, we visited Beard Papa’s, obviously very popular with L.A.’s Asian population. Beard Papa’s serves up “Fresh’N Natural Cream Puffs,” claimed to be the world’s best.

Shopping in Little Tokyo - downtown Los Angeles, California

Next stop was Little Tokyo in downtown Los Angeles. This was our first goofing-off mini-vacation this year, as I had to cancel any pleasure trips in order to focus on writing my book. The first shop, and really the only stop we were interested in, was the bookstore upstairs in this photo. It is called Kinokuniya, and rarely do we leave this place without spending a quick $100.

Shopping in Little Tokyo - downtown Los Angeles, California

Caroline spent a good hour looking through fibercraft books in Japanese – it is a Japanese bookstore, after all. Afterward, we took our time to walk around Little Tokyo.

Looking at the south-eastern edge of Little Tokyo in downtown Los Angeles, California

Coming out of Phoenix with our drab, conformist, and generic urban areas, it is always nice to visit a vibrant city center. We are looking at one of the corners of Little Tokyo; also in front of us is the L.A. City Hall in the distant background. A mile north is Chinatown, and adjacent to that is the Old Barrio of L.A. – where Los Angeles got its start. A few miles west is Korea Town, Little Saigon is over in Orange County, Little India is in Artesia, and Thai Town is over near Hollywood. Throughout the greater Los Angeles area, funky enclaves of culture thrive and give Caroline and me wonderful choices to choose from for entertainment and food compared to strip malls and drug stores on every corner out in the desert we live in. If you are wondering why I can complain about Phoenix while extolling L.A., we would live here in the City of Angels, except the cost of living would probably keep us as economic slaves to trying to maintain a small apartment.

Inside our tiny room at the Wilshire Motel in Los Angeles, California

Time to head west and check into our motel, one of our favorite motels anywhere – The Wilshire Motel. This tiny spot on Wilshire Boulevard on the way to Santa Monica is a cluster of cozy and clean bungalows just a few miles from the beach. The lady who operates the Wilshire always remembers us, even if it has been a couple of years between visits, although I don’t think we’ve ever gone that long between returns.

Caroline Wise walking on the beach in Marina Del Rey, California

With our lodging taken care of, we raced to the ocean and headed south through Venice to Marina Del Rey for a sunset walk on the beach. It was almost too late when we arrived as the sun had just dipped below the horizon, but we still had a short while to walk in the water and enjoy the late-day golden glow of the setting sun.

Ramenya on W. Olympic Blvd in Los Angeles, CA

Heading back towards our motel and about a mile roughly east is another Los Angeles favorite – Ramenya. Since our first visit when the line was outside the door, this small ramen shop has since gotten some serious competition, but we are still loyal and enjoy the variety of ramen on offer.

A bowl of steaming hot seaweed and tofu ramen from Ramenya on W. Olympic Blvd in Los Angeles, CA

This somewhat unappetizing view (I will not claim to be an exceptional or even mediocre food photographer) is a bowl of seaweed and tofu ramen. I opted for the spicy curry ramen. This ended our perfect day in Los Angeles after waking up at 5:00 in the morning over in Phoenix. It’s amazing what one can do with a little effort to get out and have some fun.

Threading

Caroline Wise threading her homemade 4-shaft counter balance loom

Here’s my wife, Caroline Wise threading her 4-shaft homemade counterbalance loom. She’s on her way to making her first cloth with a purpose, cloth that will be in the form of kitchen towels. Previously, she made a test piece of cloth, but that was just to determine if the loom worked and if she could figure out the process.  It was just a little more than 3 years ago that Caroline and her mom Jutta took a Navajo rug weaving class with Sharie Monsam over at Fiber Factory in Mesa, Arizona. Since that time, Caroline has developed an ever greater interest in weaving and the fiber arts in general.

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Caroline Wise feeding oranges to sheep in Phoenix, Arizona

Today’s title does not refer to Cascading Style Sheets, which for most non-geek readers probably wouldn’t have been their first guess anyway. Citrus Stuffed Sheep is what I’m referring to. Caroline and I visited Iris Dozer’s place in central Phoenix to pick citrus in her grove, where the majority of her daughter’s sheep also reside. These are no sheepish sheep either, on the contrary, they are quite like dogs begging around the dinner table. One must watch these four-legged citrus sponges as they will nudge you for a fresh pick and should you turn your back on the bucket you are filling, you could easily turn back around to find a few fruits missing and some more with bites stolen. In addition to enjoying ripe, even over-ripe oranges, it is not beyond these ravenous ruminants to tackle large grapefruits. A friend of ours down in Willcox has apple-addicted sheep. Now you know what folks with orchards do with surplus fruit, besides allowing moochers such as Caroline and I to come over and glean a tree or two.

The Confluence

At the confluence of the Paria and Colorado Rivers near Lee's Ferry in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

You are looking at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria Rivers near Lee’s Ferry in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona. The muddy water in the foreground is the Paria, while the dark green water in the background is the Colorado River. The Colorado River is stripped of its red color because it is leaving Lake Powell via the Glen Canyon Dam 15 miles upstream after the sediment has had the chance to settle. Last October 22nd, Caroline and I sat in the dory called the Sam McGee, rowed by Jeffe Aronson, and went over these very waters. I can tell you that it’s way cooler being out on the river than standing here on the shore, knowing you will have to drive away.

Yesterday, I came up to Fredonia, AZ, to deliver a proofreader copy of my book; today finds me at Lee’s Ferry to watch the crew set up. You might see in the background just to the left of the big cliff structure behind the river, a white spot that is the truck that brought all the gear and food. In a couple of hours, Bruce and his group would push off from that shore for another great journey down the Colorado. Me? I was going home after I shot this panorama.