Forgotten Oregon Trip – Day 4

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

Wheeler, Oregon, caught our eye the very first time we passed through. but it was going to be another eight years before we finally got around to booking a stay here along the bay. Who am I fooling? Everywhere here in coastal Oregon has caught our imagination, and we’d gladly pull up a spot of damp earth every 500 feet along the 363-mile length of the coast if we could. Why 500 feet? If we had ten years to do nothing but dwell in the beauty of every inch of this coast, that would be the distance between our campsites to cover the 1,916,640 feet that stretch from north to south.

Lucky us that late afternoon yesterday, we had some glorious weather for our two-hour kayak adventure as here we are the next morning under some heavy skies, a good time to turn inland.

Looking at the map of our Forgotten Oregon trip here in 2011, I wonder what thinking went into the idea that we’d go from Portland to the coast back again to just south of Portland, and then we’d head up the Columbia River to Long Beach, Washington, and once more to Portland? We had about two hours on the road, passing through Cannon Beach before turning east on Highway 26 to make our way to Canby, the home of the Oregon Flock & Fiber Festival.

Died fiber waiting to become yarn. As a relatively new spinner, Caroline used this opportunity to stock up on a variety of spinning fibers, covering many sheep breeds such as Shetland, Romeldale, and CVM (California Variegated Mutant).

Spindles waiting to grab hold of fiber to make yarn. Ken and Carol Ledbetter (KCL Woods) actually hail from Southern Arizona.

Sheep waiting to be shorn to offer up their fiber so humans can make yarn that will make wool clothes.

Example of wool after it’s passed through the hands of a spinner and knitter.

There goes a sweater on the left and a warm couple of beanies on the right.

Stuff your face in this and soak up the smell of lanolin; you’ll be addicted to the magic of wool.

Fiber porn at fiber fest is just what anyone would expect, but then all of a sudden things went seriously hardcore. On this very loom (itself a naughty word!) is the exotically lust-inducing fiber art known as Chilkat weaving.

Yeah, just look at that and drool. How this can be shown out in the open is beyond my imagination. For years to come, Caroline would come back to the Chilkat style, fetishizing it with wicked intentions of someday dipping her fingers into creating such sensual designs. If you cannot begin to understand this almost erotic situation, you’ve simply not learned the way of falling into those things that are perfect hand-crafted pieces of art.

We needed some fresh air after all that frolicking in fiber, and so up to the river we went. That’s the Lewis and Clark Bridge out there over to Longview, Washington, but our sights are set on a different crossing further west.

Yep, she’s spinning on her brand new Turkish spindle instead of looking out at the scenery, and of course, I’m photographing her while I’m driving because we are those kinds of idiots.

We’re here. No, this isn’t the full breadth of the Columbia River, but it is near the spot where we will board the Wahkiakum County Ferry over to Puget Island in the main river channel. From there, we’ll pick up the highway and cross a bridge to get us into Washington proper.

We’ve just left Westport, Oregon, for our 15-minute ride across this arm of the Columbia.

That’s Puget Island in the distance.

On the right is Puget Island, and on the left is the mainland of Washington State; we are on a bridge over the middle of the Columbia River, looking east.

Only in Washington minutes, and it already looks totally different than anything to the south in Oregon.

North Head Lighthouse at Cape Disappointment, Washington

Here we are out at the North Head Lighthouse at Cape Disappointment. The lighthouse wasn’t open to visitors, we are disappointed.

But we are not disappointed with the sunset out here, not looking at it from here…

…or here.

Forgotten Oregon Trip – Day 3

Pacific City, Oregon

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

Back when we stayed here in Pacific City, Oregon, for the first time, we had no idea that its “sea stack” is the world’s 4th largest monolith and that the one up the coast at Cannon Beach is the 3rd largest. The 2nd largest is a monolith called Ben Amera in Mauritania, while the largest is obviously Uluru (formerly known as Ayers Rock) in Australia. To be honest, when we stayed in Pacific City in November 2020, I certainly didn’t know the above fact then either (thanks, Internet!). Caroline may have, as she knows everything.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Pacific City, Oregon

A sunrise walk under clear skies in the grassy dunes at the southern end of town seemed like a good idea.

Pacific City, Oregon

That good idea only grew larger as the sun came up over the horizon with a stream of fog still hugging the Nestucca River, capturing the golden light of morning.

Pacific City, Oregon

From our motel to the Haystack Rock down the coast and back will have us walking a little more than 4 miles.

Caroline Wise in Pacific City, Oregon

This is the smile that says, “Great day!”

Near Pacific City, Oregon

With nothing but time and curiosity driving us forward, we headed inland for some sightseeing.

Near Pacific City, Oregon

Without notes, there’s little I can share other than we must have been having an amazing time out here.

Pacific City, Oregon

Here we are back at Pacific City Beach with an even better view of the 327-foot-tall monolith, but it’s not exactly why we’ve returned.

Pacific City, Oregon

Our visit just happened to coincide with the Cape Kiwanda Longboard Classic. As we’d never attended a surfing event, this sounded like the perfect way to spend a part of our day that had nothing else scheduled.

Pacific City, Oregon

Re-entering the water with style. While this may look like great form, the guy is no longer on his board at all and is about to enter the surf, but damn, he looks good.

View from Cape Lookout in Oregon

Time for more sightseeing as we head north. Later today, we have something on the schedule, but that shows up below. The view is from Cape Lookout.

Netarts Bay, Oregon

I could share 20 or 30 photos along Netarts Bay I’ve taken over the years; how would one ever get bored of these views?

Netarts Bay, Oregon

From Netarts Bay, we turned inland towards Tillamook.

Tillamook, Oregon

Ah, a late lunch at Blue Heron and the home of smoked brie cheese. I don’t know if we were on a diet or what, but there’s not a photo of us at the Tillamook Cheese Factory where getting an ice cream of one sort or another seems mandatory, especially a local Oregonian berry flavor.

Garibaldi, Oregon

We’ve arrived at the Port of Garibaldi but are too early for our 4:30 appointment; better go check some other things out.

Rockaway Beach, Oregon

Just 5 miles further up the road is Rockaway Beach.

Rockaway Beach, Oregon

Trying to write up this entry ten years after the fact, I have this strange fascination with this “other couple’s adventure.” They sure seem to pack each day with the experiences of many.

Caroline Wise at Rockaway Beach, Oregon

Two walks along the ocean, a surfing contest, a couple of scenic drives, an iconic cheese shop for lunch, and the day isn’t over yet.

Kayaking in Garibaldi, Oregon

4:30 rolls around, and we’re back at the Port of Garibaldi for some kayaking.

Caroline Wise kayaking in Garibaldi, Oregon

Yes, we’re in a tandem kayak, which works out for me as I’m mildly terrified of deep water. The only problem is that my terror is manifested as panic. I am trying to speak calmly with Caroline, whose every move threatens to make my nightmares come true. That smile up there is the look of control that she now has me exactly where she wants me. Maniacal, isn’t it?

John Wise Kayaking in Garibaldi, Oregon

That is fake calm on my face as somehow I was in denial of the fact that had we turned over, I would have had zero experience getting back in a kayak from the water. Worse, I would have been in a state of panic trying to figure out the situation of getting back atop the kayak from the bitter depths of Miami Cove. Fortunately, everything worked out once again, and as I hit dry land, I could thank my lucky stars that I was able to live to see another day.

After dinner at the Fisherman’s Korner restaurant, also in Garibaldi, nothing more of this day is recorded. Our motel was the Harborview Inn down the street for the bargain price of only $69, which has gone up to $119 here in 2021.

Forgotten Oregon Trip – Day 2

On the way to Silver Falls State Park in Sublimity, Oregon

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

My 17,704th day on earth, and while I can calculate the number of days between my birth and this particular day, I cannot offer any idea whatsoever about the number of sunrises I’ve seen. I do know I’ve not seen enough of them as each subsequent sunrise strikes me in such a way that I long for more, never satisfied that I’ve had my fair share. We were out of Portland before dawn as during the majority of our travels, we note prior to our departure when sunrise is so we have a good chance of seeing it. Here in late September, we have 12 hours of light from 6:00 a.m. until 6:00 p.m., and with such a short day, you can be assured we’ll try to grab every moment of it.

Silver Falls State Park in Sublimity, Oregon

Our first stop today is in Sublimity at the Silver Falls State Park.

Silver Falls State Park in Sublimity, Oregon

This is the largest state park in Oregon, and with 24 miles of trails, we’ll barely see the tiniest fraction of this place today.

Silver Falls State Park in Sublimity, Oregon

What we will see is enchanting enough to satisfy our quotient of required natural beauty for the first part of a vacation day, but it will leave us longing for a return visit someday.

Silver Falls State Park in Sublimity, Oregon

Years after taking this photo, I’m curious how the lighting turned out so well; sure, I had to pump the shadows up to brighten the darkest areas, but I don’t typically capture these dense areas so well.

Silver Falls State Park in Sublimity, Oregon

Broken is beautiful, too. Just because the tree is gone doesn’t mean it’s not serving an important role in the forest.

Silver Falls State Park in Sublimity, Oregon

Habitats are not only homes to the myriad plants and animals; they are fertile grounds for our imaginations.

Oregon

I’d like to tell you that our next stop is the big reason for coming to Oregon, but there were multiple reasons, and all of them are equally important, including this random stop along the road. While it’s difficult to see in this low-res image, the view we were driving by elicited us to pull over due to the beauty of the landscape in the distance. This seems as good a reason as any for coming to Oregon.

Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum in McMinnville, Oregon

This is the Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum in McMinnville, Oregon. While we were in Southern California, in the Long Beach area specifically, we had many opportunities to see the purpose-built hangar that once housed the Spruce Goose, but by the time we reached the United States, the plane had already been dismantled as it never proved to be much of draw for travelers.

Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum in McMinnville, Oregon

Well, it’s an interesting enough piece of history that Caroline and I were willing to make the detour to see this engineering marvel with our own eyes. While we waited for our tour of the Spruce Goose, we explored the rest of the museum. There are plenty of other aircraft here in the museum, including an old SR-71 Blackbird, but like so many other seriously large things in small spaces, it’s really difficult to photograph. We also stuck our heads into a B-17 Flying Fortress and were lucky enough to encounter a WWII Air Force Vet volunteering as a guide.

Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum in McMinnville, Oregon

Then, it was time for the main attraction. So many times, I tried to focus on capturing some small part of the thing that may share a detail that could easily be overlooked. When I was allowed to briefly occupy the very seat Howard Hughes once sat in to fly this plane on its only journey, taking off and landing on water, I thought that the foot pedals likely go unseen and the lighting down there was so interesting that I had to take and share this image.

Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum in McMinnville, Oregon

The scale of this airplane is incredible, but only a tiny fraction of the craft may be explored by us tourists.

John Wise and Caroline at the Spruce Goose in the Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum in McMinnville, Oregon

Howard Hughes once sat here.

Approaching Pacific City, Oregon

Go west is the popular refrain, and so we did, heading to Pacific City on the coast.

Pacific City, Oregon

As you can see in the previous photo, we were driving into the fog, and by the time we reached the coast, we were in the thick of it.

Pacific City, Oregon

Early fall, fog, cold water? That will never stop Caroline from feeling the Pacific Ocean’s water rushing over her feet.

Caroline Wise at the Riverhouse Restaurant in Pacific City, Oregon

We checked into the Anchorage Motel for the nice low price of only $55 for the night. Checking on the motel ten years later, I see that the cheapest room is now $119.

Caroline’s crazy accurate memory is at work again as she happens to remember that our dinner at the Riverhouse restaurant was the place where I first tried steamers and fell in love with them. Sadly enough, my upbringing was such that things like clams, mussels, and sardines were unliked without even ever having tried them. I was afraid of something I’d never seriously considered eating. Trying and enjoying them only let me know what a fool I was for not confronting my fear.

Forgotten Oregon Trip – Day 1

Portland, Oregon

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book, Stay In The Magic, and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

So here we are in Portland, Oregon, our 11th stop in this state in only nine years. The pattern was already firmly established that we were in love with at least the western half of Oregon. If I’m not mistaken, we planned this visit with some emphasis on Portland, well, for a day anyway, as maybe it had been neglected. On to the impressions.

Portland, Oregon

This was our introduction to the funky and hip street known as Mississippi Avenue. The purpose of our first visit was to Gravy Restaurant, where I’d read about the oatmeal brulee and knew that we had to try it. A year after this visit, just 400 feet south of Gravy, a shop called Control Voltage would open. Subsequent visits to Portland had me totally forgetting about that restaurant as my focus lasered in on this temple to Eurorack synthesizers.

On the trail to the Willamette Stone in Portland, Oregon

Our itinerary only listed Gravy and a bike tour, with the ride starting at 11:00, and so with some time on our hands, Caroline found the Willamette Stone State Heritage Site. Just west of Portland, this marker, known as the Willamette Meridian, is one of 37 Principal Meridians across America that are referenced by surveys and property descriptions. Nerdy enough for us to pay a visit.

Portland, Oregon

Ten years after snapping this photo my best guess as to why I took such an image is because it may have been the first time Caroline and I had seen a car that was using both gas and electricity. All these years later, hybrids and purely electric vehicles are now being sold around the earth.

Portland, Oregon

Our PDX Bridge Tour on bicycles started on Everett Street just down from the Steel Bridge crossing the Willamette River, pictured here.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Portland, Oregon

This was our first-ever bike tour of a place in America, and what better city than the incredibly bike-friendly Portland to do just that?

Portland, Oregon

This was about as far south as our tour took us. We are on the Portland Aerial Tram heading from Marquam Hill down to the South Waterfront tram stop, where we’ll start pedaling back into the downtown area.

Caroline Wise in Portland, Oregon

You knew we had to finally go there. No, not the most graffitied bathroom in Portland, but an icon all the same.

Caroline Wise and John Wise in Portland, Oregon

We are at the world-famous Voodoo Doughnuts.

Caroline Wise in Portland, Oregon

Caroline is threatening to take a bite of maple bacon doughnut even though she’s a vegetarian. That, or she’s a little crazy. Okay, maybe it’s both.

Caroline Wise in Portland, Oregon

Nerds do not go to Portland without paying homage to Powell’s City of Books.

Boring, Oregon

With a yummy breakfast, a bit of history, a bike ride, some donuts, and new reading material out of the way, it was time to avoid getting bored and head into nature to round out our day.

Mount Hood, Oregon

We were driving up to Mt. Hood and, along the way, stopped at the very crowded Timberline Lodge. I wasn’t able to get a great photo of this famous building, whose exterior was used in The Shining, yep, that movie, but I did get this image with a smidge of sunlight on the peak of Mt. Hood.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Mt. Hood, Oregon

I distinctly remember that we’d bought enough donuts that it’s possible that these smiles are not only about the fact that we’re together in a beautiful place but that we’re ripping along on sugar highs.

Near Mt. Hood, Oregon

With so much adventure and shared experiences in terrific places, we certainly didn’t need luxurious accommodations, and according to the itinerary, we stayed at a $50-a-night Motel 6.

Forgotten Oregon Trip – Day 0

Arriving in Portland, Oregon

This begins a blog post about Caroline and John Wise traveling to Portland, Oregon, for a 5-day visit, which they so far have neglected to share. The reason is simple: I was in the throes of editing my book about the Grand Canyon. While there was still a need to get out and break out of the grueling routine of writing, I was not prepared back then to write anything else for fear of throwing me off my goal. Then, one day, Caroline asked me about which trip it was to Oregon that took us to the Spruce Goose, and she discovered that it had never been posted.

Now, here we are, ten years later, in the summer of 2021, and I’m once again going to try to frame some kind of recollection of where we were at the time and match some impressions to photographs. This will obviously be the easiest of days to write about as it’s 11:30 p.m. on a Wednesday night, and we are landing in Portland. We would have gone directly to a nearby motel, likely the Rodeway Inn, but not before raising a few eyebrows at the strange salute we received from this stick figure man.

Forgotten Washington – Day 5

Disclaimer: This post is one of those that ended up being written years after the experience was had. Sadly, there were no notes taken so whatever is shared here must be extracted from the images and what memories they may have lent us. Fortunately, there was an itinerary still in my directory of travel plans, so that will help with some details. As to why this wasn’t noted or blogged about, I was in the throes of writing/editing my book Stay In The Magic and felt that any other deep writing would derail that fragile effort.

Can you believe it? This is Junior Ranger Caroline with Alice Cullen, who is played by Ashley Greene from the hit movie Twilight. We are up here in Forks, Washington, for Twilight Fanfest 2011 and ran into Ashley, who had shapeshifted into a two-legged horse.

And, of course, this is Edward Cullen, played by Robert Pattinson, who was in character trying to avoid the crowds by being inconspicuous. Damn, we sure loved these movies and wish they’d return. There’s not a day that goes by we don’t dream about Midnight Sun coming out someday.

Is this the path to Transylvania, or am I remembering the wrong vampire film?

Whoever’s playing the joke with the sign pointing us to this moss-covered credenza had me fooled, thinking I was about to find a “Moss Covered Three-Handled Gradunza.” Silly me for confusing things.

You probably haven’t figured it out yet, but we are in the Hoh Rain Forest, which is part of the Olympic National Park and the beginning of the serious part of this blog post that I have very little to say about.

Shoot, I don’t know what I can seriously say about this close-up shot of spore plants and other things I know little of.

Is it enough to share that I like wood tones surrounded by various hues of green?

Then there are these trees straddling a dead tree in a kind of necromantic multi-year ritual that we witnessed on our first visit to this coastal forest.

Come on, Caroline, I needed a scowl as whoever heard of a story featuring a friendly smiling tree troll?

Here we are, standing in front of the only moss-covered pay-phone in the entirety of the United States, which probably no longer exists. Did we miss our golden opportunity to call people using quarters to access a landline? Hmm, a smartphone that uses quarters, now there’s a great idea. I know what you are thinking, a smartphone doesn’t have space to store many quarters? I got that figured out, too: a Kevlar pouch attached to the phone to accept the coins, which would also stop people from breaking into said phone.

There was no way on a day with bright blue skies and our proximity to the coast that we wouldn’t allocate at least some small amount of time to visit. We’ll skip the Quinault Rain Forest, which is also part of the Olympic National Park, as we do have a flight later tonight that will bring us back to Phoenix.

There was a large root ball nearby with possibly 100s of cairns stacked upon its old sun-dried roots, but my photographs didn’t offer even one that was worth sharing. That’s a good thing, though, as there always needs to be another mystery for others to find, or what hope of finding your own magic is there?

Caroline is searching for that mystery.

This is the reason Washington beaches are not known for sunbathing; how would anyone get comfortable laying on logs?

Sometimes, when searching for something to say about a photo, I learn far more than I could have imagined. My first question here was, “How long do barnacles live?” The answer is 5 to 10 years. Well then, how long might these barnacles have been attached to this mussel so I can figure out how old the barnacles are? The answer didn’t really give me the answer I wanted, as it turns out that mussels can live to be 60 to 70 years old. That means a typical mussel can host 6 to 14 generations of barnacles on its shell. Now I have to reevaluate if I’m willing to eat a bivalve that could be older than me.

Why is exploring nature better than visiting Versailles in Paris, France? At the Palace of Versailles, you are only allowed to look at what’s decreed by others who restrict your access, while in nature, you can look in the cracks, corners, and under the rocks of what nobody may have ever looked at before.

Writing the above, I realized that at this moment in Caroline’s life, I was the only person to see her. So, in a sense, she embodies all the treasure found in Versailles and all the potential found in nature, and lucky me has the opportunity to continue my exploration of her potential; love is that grand. By the way, we have stopped at the Kalaloch Lodge for some lunch; Caroline’s beer is from Fish Tale Ale, and the glass reads, “Reel Fish Swim Naked.”

From our lunchtime overview, we had about 4 hours without stops to reach the Sea-Tac airport. Obviously, we did make stops, but for the sake of this blog journey into the Pacific Northwest, this is the end of the road.