Oregon Coast – Day 2

Making breakfast at Humbug campground in southern Oregon

It’s November, and we’re in the thick of autumn on the Oregon coast. All these years we’ve been coming up here during this typically gray month, there has always been the potential for bad weather, but things have mostly been fairly calm and clear, though cold and windy at times. Last night, we had our first encounter with what could be called poor on the verge of bad weather. The trees roared and whipped in the wind with a near-constant accompaniment of the rain at our tent door. Just before 6:00, we call it quits after listening to a diesel engine idle for the better part of a half-hour. It also helps us get moving as the rain has stopped, allowing a race to the toilet house. Next, our new Jetboil is about to be christened here at the Humbug campground. Smart design from the folks who built this thing; before we knew it, our stove had boiled us enough water to make our quick oats with freeze-dried fruit, followed by a pot of coffee using the French press add-on. Broke down the tent, packed up our gear, and headed for the road. We were supposed to hike Humbug Mountain this morning, but the weather says it’s not such a great idea.

The south Oregon coast on a blustery fall day

Perfect day for a slow meander down the coast, stopping at a dozen or so pullouts to see if the view is the “View of all views!” At Otter Point, we spot a trail that looks like it’s deserving of a hike in better weather. We got here off the Old Coast Road, a drive we hadn’t taken on our previous trips; this hopefully serves as a note to remind us to do so in the future.

Pacific ocean being whipped into a frenzy on the Oregon coast.

At other stops, we linger to watch the wind whip spray off the cresting waves as pelicans weave between the incoming sets. It takes us three hours to reach Brookings, a mere 56 miles south of where we began. We head out to the bay in the south of town and up to another oceanfront view, where I’m lulled to sleep by the repetitive motion of a log being tossed back and forth. I nap. A half-hour later, it’s time for lunch. The Sporthaven Marina looks like an easy choice; it’s here, and there’s a public restroom next door. Their menu proclaims that they’ve been a two-year running 1st place winner for their clam chowder; sold. The soup hits the spot; it’s hot, salty, certainly yummy, and worth the stop. Time to turn around for the drive north.

The south Oregon coast on a blustery fall day.

One more stop is required before leaving: Fred Meyer for some snacks and Dutch Brothers for coffee; now we can go. It’s obvious we’re not going to find a break in the weather; the wind is persistent, and there’s not a hint of blue sky in any direction. That doesn’t mean we are not overjoyed to be where we are; the seething cauldron of an ocean has us mesmerized as we stare into its churn.

The gray blustery Oregon coast on a stormy fall day.

Let’s go check another pullout. Once found, we gaze for a long while at the birds riding the frenzy of wind accompanying this storm front. We sit in the dry comfort of our car as it rocks from side to side from the buffeting of the gusts, wondering how bad can this get. Not sure what the answer is, but the thought arises that maybe we should pitch the tent before it’s too windy or getting too dark.

View from the dock at Port Orford, Oregon on a stormy day

We should be heading for Cape Blanco, but Port Orford beckons. The boat dock is always a draw; during foul weather, it is especially thrilling. Here, we sit on the edge of the ocean, not the beach, but what feels like the deep sea. Behind us are fishing boats on the dock and crab cages; in front of us is this scene here. Caroline and I could sit here for hours; maybe we did.

A large wave cresting a rock near Port Orford, Oregon during a blustery fall storm.

Up at Cape Blanco, there are no tent sites for people with cars. The cabins are sold out. Plan B takes us to Bullards State Park just up the road. We ask about a yurt as it has become obvious that we will suffer if we stay in our tent tonight. The camp host warns us against taking a yurt as they are expecting 90 mph winds overnight, which could spell flying tree limbs. Not wanting to be tomorrow’s news after having been warned we return to Bandon and check into the Shooting Star Motel for only $50. After dinner at Tony’s Crab Shack, we get back to our room, outside of which the carport awning is making painful sounds in the wind. After a half-hour of creaking and groaning, I move the car to the edge of the lot. Freight trains of wind are bearing down on us and colliding with that roof outside our door. This will be a hard night to sleep through.

Oregon Coast – Day 1

We landed in Portland last night, grabbed a room, and slept through the anticipation of what awaited us in the morning. After breakfast at Kenny & Zukes Deli, it was time to worship at the shrine of books – Powell’s. Now, with a new book each and a box being sent home by the helpful folks at Powell’s, Caroline has another stop that has become a de rigueur mandate: visit a local yarn store. This one is called KnitPurl and is one of the few places to find Loft yarns – she chooses four skeins; I take three that suggest they’d make for a nice new cap. Another stop for some food and gear, and finally we are driving south, aiming for the Oregon coast. For 70 miles, we slog down the freeway, not our favorite thing to do on vacation, but an occasionally necessary evil. At exit 228, we are turning off in the direction of Newport – on the ocean. Four hours later we arrive in Port Orford.

South of Newport, Oregon on the coast

On the Oregon coast, we find a gray and dreary day, but don’t confuse dreary with dreadful. These solemn, quiet days are a welcome respite from our sun-everyday existence in the desert. While muted tones make for less than perfectly dynamic travel photos, they give us a reason to snuggle into warm clothes and enjoy some solitude.

Golden sunset on still inlet near the Oregon Coast

I’ve said it before and would hope it needn’t be said again, but I suppose I must: it seems a day doesn’t go by that the sun doesn’t part the sky to smile its kindly rays upon our happiness. We swoon in delight at the beauty and take inventory once more of our incredible luck.

Railroad crossing on the Oregon coast

Normally, we stop here to walk up the railroad tracks to a rock feature in the water that has appeared before on my blog, but today, the crossing itself is the center of attention. Oh, how I love these pleasant little surprises.

Sand dunes and ocean at sunset in Oregon

The view from Umpqua Lighthouse State Park overlooking the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. We’re still driving south and can’t help but pull over to take in some of our favorite views.

Rainbow on the Oregon coast in late fall

Not quite all the way from our perspective, but certainly a double rainbow.

Bridge in the distance on the Oregon coast

Hoping that we’d arrived with plenty of time, we raced down to the fishing dock and found that the restaurant we wanted to eat at would be open until 8:00 pm. Great, back into the car and hurry the six miles we still need to travel in order to check into our campsite at Humbug Mountain. It’s dark, but it’s not raining! With our tent set up and sleeping bags tossed in, it’s once again time to jump back into the car, but this will be the last rushing around on this trip.

Griff's On The Dock - restaurant in Port Orford

Here we are at Griffs On The Dock. For years, we’ve wanted to eat here but have never managed to arrive during business hours. It’s not that we know anything special about the place; it’s just a matter of being in love with the location and the building. Many a time Caroline and I have sat on this dock and watched the ocean churn with the most ferocious waves and hammering winds. We can sit in the car next to the stone wall, dry and cozy, armed with hot coffee,  and stare out at the sea forever and have done just that. Tonight, though, little is to be seen under the dark, overcast sky, and anyway, our stomachs are yearning to be fed.

Dinner starts with a bowl of steamers before moving on to the lingcod special. After yumming over that, we got yummier with a shared slice of marionberry pie served a la mode. As we are finishing, the last customer for the night comes in. Interested in what we might recommend, we suggest he try the special. Stating he’s a fisherman and is looking for something yummy, we offer our assurance that this is indeed a good choice. Turns out he was up from Los Angeles and hoping to get some serious fishing in before the worst of the anticipated storm set in. The talk continues with gusto as we learn he fishes out of Yakutat, Alaska – the same place we exited our summer rafting trip of the Alsek River. Small world.

Amon Tobin in San Diego

House of Blues in San Diego, California

Drove out to San Diego, California today. I was accompanied by Brinn Aaron who was also intrigued about seeing Amon Tobin tonight. First stop in town was to pick up my daughter Jessica – who’d never been to a performance of electronic music! And this wasn’t just any gig either, it was Amon’s ISAM 2.0 show, he’s been at the forefront of projection mapping adding a major new element to stage performance. Working with Vello Virkhaus of V Squared Labs and his team of evil geniuses, these guys have built a “screen” – if you can call it that, it’s more a 3D cubic form that stretches across the stage and towers high above, that acts as the video screen. Projected onto those cubes are mapped video images and special effects that quite often are in sync with the music, but are always a great compliment to the glitchy throb of Amon’s beats. Almost inconspicuously embedded within the cube structure is a ‘bigger’ cube – it’s the DJ booth where Amon’s working. At the mixing desk is Peter Sistrom, a member of V Squared, but he’s not working the audio mix, he’s operating midi panels that are triggering visual events that are pouring out of Derivative’s Touch Designer into some high powered projectors that are beaming a flow of visual beauty onto the stage.

The show was amazing with a lot of consideration given to the quality of the sound system that hammered away at the audience and vibrated more than a few of my internal organs. Somewhere after the end of the tour, the stage will likely be burned in a bonfire somewhere in the Mojave desert – I can only hope that the next tour is even more extravagant than this two hours of perfection I watched tonight.

Photo credit: Jessica Aldridge

Stay In The Magic – My Book

After two years of soul searching hard work, I am happy to announce the availability of my first book: Stay In The Magic – A Voyage Into The Beauty Of The Grand Canyon. Starting in October 2010, Caroline and I embarked on an 18-day rafting trip down the Colorado River, following that journey into the amazing, I started to write a blog entry. Well, that blog entry never came about, it was getting far too long to post here. Instead, it became this book.

Stay In The Magic is printed in full color with over 300 photos I shot during those 18 days on the river, it is 8.5″x11″ in size and 306 pages long.

The book is available at Amazon by clicking this link: http://amzn.to/PHYvPH

You may also order it directly from me for $29.95 plus shipping – a 25% savings!




Ocean and Rainbows

Santa Monica, California

It’s Labor Day in America, and that means it’s also the last day of our time in Southern California, but that doesn’t imply that we’re just taking off for a quick drive back across the deserts of California and Arizona so we can get home early. Nope, we had things to do, such as head down Wilshire Blvd to the Santa Monica Pier as who doesn’t enjoy a walk out over the ocean?

Santa Monica, California

I think these plump specimens of pigeonhood have become accustomed to the feeding hands of people. The closer we got, the closer we got, meaning they didn’t scatter. Nope, they focused those evil beady red eyes on us as if questioning us, “Whatchya got in the way of snackies to offer, so we don’t need to poop on you?”

Santa Monica, California

Meanwhile, the pelican looks on from above, thinking, “I already know you, sorry skin-sacks got no fish, so I may as well poo on you, be careful where you walk.”

Santa Monica, California

In my opinion, pelicans are right behind the albatross in cool factor with regards to birds that soar over the water. Look at its form, wing tips seemingly just millimeters off the surface; head pulled back as if resting it on the body, looking for all the world as if it were in cruising mode and when pelicans are going to go in for something to eat, they rear up and divebomb with that long beak piercing the water’s surface as if to open a portal into the sea for it to grab its meal.

Santa Monica, California

In the first years, Caroline and I would travel from Phoenix to the Los Angeles area it wasn’t uncommon for headaches to creep up on us as we entered the smog vector somewhere near Palm Springs. Through the mountains, a brown cloud not made of fog wafted to the east, and we had to drive right into it. That was common for us in the mid to late 90s, but over time, it’s been improving gradually. Now, if only better mass transportation and more affordable housing for the underclass could be facilitated to remove the traffic gridlock and scale of the homeless problem, Los Angeles would only become a better and better place to live.

Santa Monica, California

Then again, with a greater quality of life, a greater density of residents competing for resources would only grow dire. If the pier here in Santa Monica were round-the-clock mayhem as it is on a Friday or Saturday night, maybe things wouldn’t be quite as enchanting as they are here on a quiet early morning while a calm sea laps at the pylons of the pier and gently rolls onshore.

Santa Monica, California

With nearly two hours ahead of us before our next “date,” all we can do is wander around enjoying the beautiful day.

Santa Monica, California

And though we love the evening vibe here on the promenade, we thoroughly enjoy the morning solitude.

Santa Monica, California

Our “date” is a documentary we are taking in this morning here on the Third Street Promenade in Santa Monica. Side by Side, produced and narrated by Keanu Reeves, is a comparative look at the differences between film and digital workflows in the making of movies.

Rainbows over the California Desert

We had one more stop in Los Angeles before hitting the road back east and that was at Yoma Myanmar in Monterey Park, a little Burmese joint of a restaurant. By the time we are in the desert, dark clouds on the horizon portend some inclement weather in our future, that and rainbows.

Rainbows over the California Desert

Rainbows and hints of double rainbows.

Rainbows over the California Desert

Even a full rainbow that had us get off the freeway for a better photo.

Rainbows over the California Desert

How about some more double rainbow? Yep, this is how we travel: blue skies, great food, awesome experiences, and rainbows everywhere we go.

California Coast

Beach near Santa Barbara, California

Disclaimer of sorts, as with the first post from this Labor Day weekend in Los Angeles, this post wasn’t penned and pushed into the sunlight until the summer of 2023, 11 years after the events depicted took place. And so, without further ado, let’s jump into the sea. Once again, we awoke at the Wilshire Motel, except this time, we bolted north on Highway 101 because we had a date with a yarn store in Santa Barbara.

Caroline Wise on beach near Santa Barbara, California

Being who we are (meaning: John and Caroline, just to be clear), we were not going to drive by the ocean without stopping to admire where the sea meets the shore, gaze at how the sun is illuminating all of this, and hold out until we spot a bit of wildlife.

Beach near Santa Barbara, California

Well, these seagulls will do just fine for our wildlife encounter. Time to continue the trek north.

Backyard Bowls in Santa Barbara, California

This was not our first time to Backyard Bowls for breakfast here in Santa Barbara, not even our second or third. Looking for a fresh treat to start the day with a bunch of fruit atop acai or porridge? Then this place is for you. Note to Caroline, who will edit this before it’s published: Backyard Bowls now has locations in the Los Angeles area; just saying.

Santa Barbara, California

The beautiful hibiscus flower is also a tasty treat, especially when used in tea.

The Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

We are visiting the Casa Covarrubias Adobe, built in 1817, which is now a historical landmark here in Santa Barbara, California. It’s also one of the oldest buildings from the earliest days when the city was just taking shape.

Loom at the Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

If there are tools of the fiber trade, then you just know that Caroline would be looking for a photo, and this loom featuring some ancient parts fits that bill.

Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

I can’t remember if we sampled the grapes growing here. I’d like to think I did, but I’m also fairly certain that Caroline would have reminded me that if everyone helped themselves, there’d be nothing left for photos of yummy grapes still on the vine glowing in the morning sun.

Casa Covarrubias in Santa Barbara, California

Just where the adobe gives way to the El Presidio de Santa Barbara State Historic Park is lost on me in long-forgotten memories, and I’m too lazy at the moment to tease them apart. I’m astonished at our good luck in visiting the Santa Barbara area mostly when the weather is stunningly perfect.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

It’s a short walk over to the County Courthouse of Santa Barbara, another historic site.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

This is the Mural Room; it was once the County Supervisors’ Assembly Room.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

The courthouse opened in 1929 following a devastating earthquake; it would come to define the architectural style that Santa Barbara is known for.

Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

View from the courthouse clock tower. Is there any wonder why Santa Barbara has become one of the greatest places to live in the United States?

Caroline Wise and John Wise visiting the Courthouse in Santa Barbara, California

If we were millionaires or willing to not have a life beyond a mortgage, we’d live here. Instead, we’ll have to satisfy ourselves that we can afford the luxury of frequent visits.

Arlington Theater in Santa Barbara, California

The Arlington Theater was built in 1931 and can seat 2,000 visitors, no wonder they host concerts here in addition to showing films.

Caroline Wise at Loop & Leaf in Santa Barbara, California

NO! Did someone assume because it’s the weekend that, the very reason for visiting Santa Barbara, the Loop & Leaf yarn and tea shop would be open? Sadly for my morose-faced wife, her opportunity to splurge on the only real luxury she shops for has been squashed.

La Super-Rica Taqueria in Santa Barbara, California

Nothing left to do but eat the blues away under a pretty blue sky. Based on a tip, we’ll endure the lengthy line here at La Super-Rica Taqueria because the food is that highly recommended. Was it worth it? With a super enthusiastic exclamation of Muy Rico! Yes, it was worth the wait.

Caroline Wise on beach near Santa Barbara, California

One more stop at the oceanside for a walk in the sand before continuing south as we’re staying one more night at the Wilshire Motel.

Mashti Malone's Ice Cream in Hollywood, California

Based on this image, we can be certain we had ice cream at Mashti Malone’s, but nothing else is known about the evening. Where’d we have dinner? Did we catch a movie, walk around Hollywood or Santa Monica? Nada is known, no photos, no notes, no nothing.