Fiber Workshop in Bisbee

Bisbee area in Southern Arizona

I’m in America, but America is having a hard time finding its way back into me. The confrontation of conformity bludgeons me from the uniform aesthetic of architecture to the uniforms worn by factions belonging more to wolf packs than to individuals. We are a polarized society living in the segregated, class-divided enclaves of our version of normal. America is no longer able to call itself a diverse society unified by an ideal as we have fragmented into isolated interest groups that do not trust others who are not like themselves.

Bisbee area in Southern Arizona

Out in the nowhere of quiet America, we are away from the noise and are able to find the harmony where we need not consume the pablum that is dulling what made this country great. In my view, our greatness was so vast and abundant that we had a ready supply for the rest of Earth, and what gave us that was our curiosity to explore the horizons of what we didn’t know. This idea is now relegated to vague concepts shown to us in the movies of fictional heroes where people, good and bad, take risks. The average person today simply struggles to find a slightly better-paying job, health care, money for emergencies, and a free weekend to get out of town.

Bisbee area in Southern Arizona

Like herd animals, we stand behind the strong leader who is hand-fed money, making them loyal to us but never do they dare share even a small part of their strength and position of privilege. We stand in the back, distracted, looking at the sock puppet in the corner, never realizing that even our fur has been stolen to benefit someone else.

Being down south near Bisbee, Arizona, has allowed me a brief respite from the incessant blogging of our trip to Europe that is keeping me effectively locked on vacation and in a European mindset while I’ve been physically among a bunch of people I resent for their abhorrent blandness. Their interest in being present, curious, aware, and finding education feels non-existent, as though it was thoroughly and completely lost. I expect that behavior from animals, dirt, mountains, and insects but not from my fellow Americans.

Bisbee area in Southern Arizona

It’s as though we mined everything good out of who we were and replaced it with a giant hole filled with air. The thing is that when I visit the incredible expanse of beauty that stretches from the Atlantic to the Pacific, I must look within to interpret and give value to what I’m perceiving with my senses. When among the throngs of humanity, I need to encounter a similar expanse of potential that should stretch from the left ear to the right one. Falling into a bottomless pit only triggers my fear of exposure, where I might lose my footing and tumble into the abyss.

Bisbee, Arizona

I encountered a breath of fresh air as I met Amber at the Bisbee Soap & Sundry. Scott Jaeger of Industrial Music Electronics up in Washington, upon hearing that Caroline and I were heading south to Bisbee, suggested we make a stop at this shop to visit with the owners, his friends Amber and Mark. Scott wasn’t wrong, as it’s instantly obvious that the proprietors are well-grounded people, and at least my encounter with half the team was a great one. I left with a dozen bars scented with creosote, tobacco & bay, vetiver, and lemongrass.

Caroline Wise in Bisbee, Arizona

Back over at the fiber retreat, I spy a while on Caroline in her element as, without recognizing that I’ve snuck in, she enthusiastically introduces a few other ladies to her work in making objects using the sprang method.

From Wikipedia: Sprang is an ancient method of constructing fabric that has a natural elasticity. Its appearance is similar to netting, but unlike netting, sprang is constructed entirely from warp threads. Archaeological evidence indicates that sprang predates knitting; the two needlework forms bear a visible resemblance and serve similar functions but require different production techniques.

Caroline Wise in Bisbee, Arizona

Caroline is pictured here with Louie Garcia, a weaver, spinner, and teacher from the Tiwa/Piro Pueblo in New Mexico. She’s wanted to take a workshop with this guy for years and was afraid that her last-minute registration for the event would end up excluding her, but luck was on her side, and she was not only able to learn from him during the day but the keynote after dinner was also being given by Louie.

Bisbee area in Southern Arizona

Think about it a moment: if we’d have had the ability to build these kinds of barricades and hostile fences when our forefathers were rounding up and isolating Louie Garcia’s ancestors who were the original inhabitants of the lands we grabbed for ourselves, we would have put them under even harsher conditions than we did and would be dealing with the guilt of such inhumane treatment. I wonder how many years it will take before we look at these barriers with disdain that we’d begrudge so many people for trying to survive within an economic system that manufactures disparities that foster conditions that force people to struggle for basic survival.

Bisbee area in Southern Arizona

The agave is reaching the clouds this year, leaving us wondering what exactly are the conditions that lead them to be taller in certain years and significantly shorter in others.

Coronado National Memorial in Southern Arizona

My day out on the road and in thought concludes at the Coronado National Memorial before returning to Bisbee for Caroline and me to get some dinner and head back to our remote getaway.

Weekend in Bisbee, Arizona

Somewhere on the way to Bisbee, Arizona

We arrived in the late afternoon on Friday for the 2019 Bisbee Fiber Arts Retreat & Gathering that Caroline is attending. It was just at the last minute on Wednesday when she learned of it, and with some encouragement, she booked herself a spot, and I found us a place to stay.

Near Bisbee, Arizona

We’re staying at Lisa Thompson’s Thunder Mountain Ranch, available on Airbnb. Lisa raises alpacas out here under the Milky Way. Astonishment is the only way to describe the feeling when we once again find ourselves deep in the desert before the moon rises and look at the billions of stars that fill our vision. Now, if only I’d wake tomorrow morning with my vision cleared of constantly living with our recent journey into Europe. Why do I have that feeling? It’s because every day we’ve been back, I return to our trip in order to finish transcribing my notes and bringing them together with a selection of photos I shot so they may all sit here on my blog into the future.

Frankfurt to Phoenix

Frankfurt, Germany

We went out for an early morning walk to try to combat the total lack of movement we’ll be enduring while crammed into our seats for the more than 11-hour trek back to Phoenix later today.

Frankfurt, Germany

Klaus told us of a foot and bike path that runs along the Nidda River and even volunteered to wake early with us so we could get a short 10km (6 miles) walk in before breakfast.

Frankfurt, Germany

It’s simply beautiful out here. If nothing else about our time spent in Germany this year, we learned that we’ve never invested enough in exploring the points between here and there on foot.

Frankfurt, Germany

When we were on our way back to Haus Engelhardt, we made an effort to pass Speisekammer, where I inquired about what time they opened. Seeing we had to head to the airport at 12:30, we could hardly eat here one more time if they didn’t open until 11:30 or later, but luck would have it that they open at 11:00, so it seemed settled that we’d just have to take up some seats as their first customers of the day.

Frankfurt, Germany

Handkäs mit Musik with farmers’ bread because I can never have enough of this stuff when on pilgrimage in this city on the Main River.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Frankfurter grüne Sauce mit gekochten Eiern und Petersilienkartoffeln with a glass of Apfelwein is the only way to indulge the senses right up to the last minute before racing to the airport. See ya later, Frankfurt.

Iceland

There’s a small town out there near the middle of the photo at the water’s edge called Dalvik, and the little island in front of it is Hrisey. What a great day to be flying.

Greenland

This is Greenland because it’s not Antarctica, and no, it’s not the North Pole either because the ice and snow float on the sea because there’s no continent up there, remember?

Greenland

I can’t believe this incredible view we’re being offered from around 35,000 feet above sea level.

Labrador Sea

The Labrador Sea, where I cannot see a polar bear running across the ice no matter how close I look.

Wyoming

Looks like Wyoming to me; we must be close to home.

Phoenix, Arizona

And then here we are soon to touch down in this arid place in the desert we call home.

Frankfurt – Sunday

Frankfurt, Germany

There’s this horrible song titled “Back to the Start” by Michael Schulte that has been following me since I arrived in Berlin and heard it for the first time. I tried ignoring its cloyingly formulaic jingle, not wanting to gain a clue about its lyrical content, but here I am on my last full day in Frankfurt, and just as it happened on every other day here, the song wafts out of the kitchen at the Engelhardts’ and into my ear to excite the worm that lives there. At that moment, I decided this was definitely the anthem of this German summer and went to the kitchen with trusty Google in tow and asked it to identify the song I didn’t want to know. Now I know the lyrics, and I resent it even more for its intentional sucking in people in need of nostalgia that dips into feelings of a lost childhood. Be that as it may, I can no longer ignore this musical trainwreck, and so by putting it front and center, I’ll forever be able to relive those mornings in cafes and at the Engelhardts when my cringe factor was in full tilt.

While I’m here, I shouldn’t forget to remind myself of the song that now identifies our days in Croatia, where we first heard Nera performing “Centar svita.” Well, that’s our “city” song, while in the country, it would have to be the Haris Džinović anthem, “Muštuluk.

Enough of that, and onto the photo above. The Engelhardt’s are the official Guinness World Record holders of most liquid bath soaps ever collected in one place. While they now have enough soap to wash 100 people every day for 1,000 years their collection shows no signs of slowing down. Turns out that the Yves Rocher Grapefruit & Thyme Shower Gel might be my all-time favorite soap scent, and it only took me trying out a few dozen soap scents while I showered this morning to learn that.

Frankfurt, Germany

Down in the basement the Engelhardt’s are still building their collection of jams and jellies to qualify with the Guinness committee as being the most diverse on earth. So you might be able to read some of the labels I zoomed in tight for this view of a mere 2% of the current collection where you’ll find cinnamon-cherry plum, pumpkin-coconut, apple-medlar (like, what the heck is medlar in the first place?), blueberry-coriander (who thought that one up?), and others you may never believe.

Upstairs for breakfast with the most awesome German Vollkornbrötchen served up with a gaggle of jam flavors, including lilac, dandelion jelly, and a concoction direct from Klaus, who created an amazing apricot-vanilla jam. The pièce de résistance, though, had to be the mind-blowing strawberry with mint and black pepper. What the hell, America? I go into our mega grocery stores, and I’m offered 100 different brands of grape and strawberry, a couple of raspberry variations, and the god-awful creation known as Goober, which puts peanut butter and grape jelly in the same jar.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

You know that wish of mine to move slower and how I romanticize the speed of turtles and snails? Well, Jutta moves at a speed somewhere between the two, and I have to share a mea culpa here that I, in fact, do NOT want to move at those barely visible speeds where observers can’t be certain if the person is even moving anymore. My legs start to cramp, trying not to appear to be running ahead while I maintain her cadence so we can walk along together. Caroline and I left Heddernheim relatively early so we could fetch my mother-in-law and drag her out for lunch.

Frankfurt, Germany

We took all of those trains to get to our destination, all of them.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

I stood there waiting to frame this photo of Caroline walking with her mother, and finally, after about 45 minutes, the magic started to happen, and I had my shot. Now I’m nearing starvation, and my hallucinations are suggesting it might have been days since I last ate.

Frankfurt, Germany

Our lunch was at the Central Grill right behind me here at the corners of Münchenerstrasse and Weserstrasse in the heart of the city. On Friday night, after landing in Frankfurt, we visited this place in need of some southern European cooking, and while I loved my meal, they were out of roasted lamb, so I settled on the lamb shank. My bet was that they’d have the roasted lamb today, and I wasn’t disappointed. The funny thing was that all three of us had the roasted lamb followed by a strong Turkish coffee before taking off for dessert.

Frankfurt, Germany

Heading back from whence we came.

Frankfurt, Germany

We waited for the U5 to take us back into our old neighborhood, but that story has been written about nearly a dozen times here on the blog of JohnWise.com.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

This is becoming a bit of a tradition where Caroline poses with some giant plastic food items we spot along the road.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Our old neighborhood has been gentrified by hipsters who overtook the place. They moved in, started having babies, trendy restaurants followed them in, and now you have to be nearly rich to live here but it’s still a place of fond memories.

Engelhardt Family and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Klaus and Stephanie rode their bikes over here to meet us on this beautiful day so all of us could be together for at least a short while during this visit. Oh, and we’re at Eis Christina for our favorite Spaghetti Ice Cream in the world.

Engelhardt Family and Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

One more photo for the road before Caroline and I accompany Jutta back to her apartment.

Frankfurt, Germany

Inclusiveness is on full public display when even the streetlights embrace the diversity that is thriving in Frankfurt.

Frankfurt, Germany

With this being our last full day in Europe, we need to absorb as much of the city as we can so we opted to walk nearly all the way back to Heddernheim. Along the way, we even passed the house where Anne Frank spent her first years.

Frankfurt, Germany

Why we never really learned about the green belts that trace through the city when we lived here will remain one of life’s great mysteries to me.

Frankfurt, Germany

Klaus has been toiling in the kitchen to prepare this exquisite home-cooked meal. I must admit that Caroline and I are a bit embarrassed by the incredible hospitality offered us by the Engelhardt’s. We arrive, they give us a room upstairs, supply us with breakfast, turn over a key to the front door, and all of that for guests who are rarely here as we are out visiting our elderly family members or old friends for the majority of our time in Frankfurt. So I’m happy that towards the end of our vacations in Europe, we always seem to have a couple of days where we share each other’s company a bit more and close on a great note.

Frankfurt – Saturday

Caroline Wise and Stephanie Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

We’ve seen this movie before. Two sisters get on the train to shop at the open-air market at Konstablerwache.

Frankfurt, Germany

Along the way, they make a detour to Hugendubel bookshop so Caroline can pick up her book of sheet music from Rammstein.

Frankfurt, Germany

Not in the mood for shopping, the forlorn husband turns to something sweet in the form of raspberries to help in dealing with the bitter reality that Frankfurt is disappearing.

Frankfurt, Germany

People go about their business oblivious to the fact that two people among them, while happy being here, must exchange this place for the one that pays their bills and makes amazing vacations possible.

Frankfurt, Germany

The protesters who begged us to stay had no impact on our decision to follow through with our original plans and leave by the 10th, regardless of how our hearts may have thought otherwise.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Caroline tried to assuage the horror of facing the airport and the 11-hour flight home by buying even more Gudrun Sjödén clothes, but I can’t be sure that really did anything other than giving her more stuff to make her look cute.

Frankfurt, Germany

Maybe Papier Kraemer or the library can fight these blues?

Frankfurt, Germany

I know we’ll eat sausages because sausages can heal everything.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

A happy face in the sea of shoppers. By the way, I hope you notice the glitch in the Matrix as somebody behind Caroline is wearing her shirt that was bought years ago at REI, so this cannot just be a coincidence.

Frankfurt, Germany

We are obviously in the Matrix otherwise; how did we just have elderflower pancakes for the first time ever in Croatia, and here we are on our first full day back in Frankfurt, and they are being cooked right here at the market as if the Matrix coded this very moment.

Frankfurt, Germany

The orange of apricots is a happy color and is helping in this transition to America.

John Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

When all else fails, there’s always grown-ass-man-sucking-a-pacifier-wearing-green-rubber-gloves-selling-hugs-and-kisses (I opted for hugs) to make me feel better. How much better did I feel for my two Euros? It was so much better that I almost kissed him for free.

Jutta's Apartment in Frankfurt, Germany

We are back at Jutta’s apartment because Jutta loves seeing us.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

Jutta also loves sharing a laugh with her daughter, though she half-heartedly complained that I was photographing her clutter. Reality hurts; just ask the two people who are leaving Germany in 48 hours.

Jutta's Apartment in Frankfurt, Germany

Maybe you’ve noticed this recurring theme across the breadth of this European vacation, where I tried capturing the place where I sat down to write.

Frankfurt, Germany

Greta Thunberg is one of my heroes; she should be one of yours too.

Frankfurt, Germany

Leaving Jutta’s to meet with the other Engelhardt’s with whom we have a dinner date for the “BEST” green sauce in all of Frankfurt!

Frankfurt, Germany

The Ebbelwoi-Express is a reminder to Caroline and me that we’ve never ridden the “Apple-wine Express” train that meanders through Frankfurt while the passengers get drunk on apple wine and forget where they are prior to stumbling off the train and trying to find their way home in a stupor. We’re making a date to get on the train and ride this iconic beacon of debauchery before we’re dead.

Frankfurt, Germany

Dinner at the Argentinian steak house that won this year’s “Best of Grüne Soße Festival” was great. The pairing of green sauce with steak wasn’t my idea of perfection, but it’s what we asked for. Next time, I go for the traditional presentation with boiled eggs and potatoes.

Frankfurt, Germany

I’ve whined about it before, but it bears whining about again; Frankfurt has too damn many cultural events, while Phoenix, like the desert that surrounds it, is a wasteland. I look at these walls announcing stuff going on over the next 60 days, and I want to pound my head into them, though I’d likely not hurt myself as the layers of posters are dozens thick, making for a nice soft cushioning surface to absorb my frustration, kind of like my wife.

Leaving The Balkans

Caroline Wise in Zaton Mali, Croatia

With only five hours left next to the Adriatic, we had to make the best of our brief remaining moments here. After breakfast, we continued hanging out next to the sea until lunch finally crept up on us. Squid and sardines were served up as our last meal in Croatia. A nice slow start to the day, savoring a few impressions, was the elixir we needed instead of racing around trying to capture 1,000 new memories that wouldn’t fit into our dwindling supply of time.

Zaton Mali, Croatia

We took another walk through the garden of our lodging, with stops to smell the roses along the way.

Zaton Mali, Croatia

We tried moving through with all the speed of a turtle, but they have more practice at that, and so no matter how much we slowed down, we appear to be in a race to see whatever comes next.

Zaton Mali, Croatia

One last view over this very Mediterranean-looking scene as Petar is driving up to bring us to the airport.

Dalmatian Coast in Croatia

The Dubrovnik airport is a good distance south of the city and only about 20 miles north of the farthest southern point of Croatia.

Dalmatian Coast in Croatia

For the better part of this trip, I was nearly constantly contrasting the nature of this adventure with what I perceived as more immersive journeys into places such as the Grand Canyon or Alaska because those locations feel more physically remote. On those river trips, the people we traveled with stayed the same, and the landscape only gradually changed. Here in Croatia, Bosnia, and Montenegro, the passengers remained the same, but hosts, guides, cities, and landscapes changed along with ethnicity and religion as we bounced between environments.

A part of me found these contrasts to be a disrupting factor in finding full immersion, but now that we are returning to the world we know, I started to gain insight into how the Balkans were, in many ways, like the walls of the Grand Canyon. Surrounding us was the culture, history, and language that contained us on a path through the places we traveled it is as though we crept along down the Colorado River isolated from the familiar.

Why it took me this long to recognize this cannot be answered at this moment, but maybe it had something to do with my travel companions who brought the insulation of America with us. During this journey, we are constantly adjusting our mental, social, and cultural maps in much the same ways we adjust our sense of place as we raft, kayak, or canoe a stretch of water that is changing with the environment. We convulse out of our frames of reference while simultaneously trying to dance with a dozen other travelers we know nothing about. We must try to maintain social cohesion and civility with some diverse personalities that, for a brief time, all exist outside of each other’s version of normal.

Germany

There is little anonymity in such a small group with few places to hide; maybe this helps explain the majority escaping to bed so early in the evening and seeming to sleep in so late. We are being laid bare to each other and, to a degree, made vulnerable. When I look deep within myself, I find hostility and outright disdain for others that I want to conform to my ideas of what it means to listen, observe, respect, not complain, and be in the moment instead of demonstrating superficial trivialities about shared media experiences and previous travel drivel that has no place in an environment where we are allowed to be present and not distracted by our pasts and occupied by the future.

For those who equate stillness and quiet with boredom combined with the conflict of not understanding a different language or taste in music, food, history, and religion, it seems that immersion might be perceived to be another kind of silence, and hence it too is boring. In those moments, people turn to what they know. When I’m in earshot of their boredom and dismissiveness, I feel a part of my immersion destroyed by their intolerance. I’ll be thinking long and hard into the next few days about this phenomenon of isolation and long periods of sleep as a coping mechanism in others for dealing with all of the uncertainty and unknowns of being in foreign places.

Frankfurt, Germany

Reentry hits hard once we are on the train in Frankfurt. The bustle, absurdity, and fashion cliches are all hitting us in much the same way as when we leave other river trips. Upon first witnessing people dealing with the reality we’d left behind, we tend to recoil as their routines appear loaded with superficial banalities.

This luxury found by a curiosity that is willing to take us into experiences surpassing our expectations never fails to make itself known in the surprise that it was us who just left the incredible. I’m left wondering how Alexander von Humboldt and other explorers like him might have felt after leaving the beaten path and discovering things that not only changed him but changed life for everyone on the planet. This intention of venturing out to actively seek knowledge as opposed to passive observation from the sideline remains profoundly inspirational to me.