Katharina – Lunch

Katharina Engelhardt in Phoenix, Arizona

Yesterday disappeared into my writing but Katharina didn’t appear phased by the situation as she was perfectly able to entertain herself between finishing a book she was reading and something or other on her own computer. For me, it was a momentous occasion as I finally finished my own blogging and could now start concentrating on anything else with my immediate concern being what we’d be doing on the long 4th of July weekend.

Changing channels from two months of visiting and writing about Europe to making new travel plans was a non-starter as I only had ideas of where I didn’t want to go. So today was essentially a do-nothing-but-eat-and-chat day. Lunch as pizza at Lou Malnati’s and much to my surprise Kat opted to try the dessert of baked hot cookie topped with ice cream, which she finished both. If you are wondering if she’s impervious to jet lag this was the combo that knocked her out and afterward she had to give in to the power of the nap. As for tomorrow’s road trip plans, we’ll wait and discuss things with Caroline after she finishes work.

Katharina Arrives in Arizona

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Sky Harbor Airport in Arizona

Katharina our niece from Germany was 13 by the time we finally met her face-to-face and for years we could never be sure if we’d ever see her here in America. She’d gone to Niagara Falls and Florida some years back as part of an organized church trip but we weren’t able to coordinate being back that way at the same time. For the past 7 months, she’s been spending her gap year down in New Zealand where she’s been packing apples for some contractor that hires people looking for temp work. Not too long ago we learned that there was a good chance she was going to visit us in Arizona. Leaving the land of the Kiwi during the middle of winter and freezing temperatures to land in Arizona when it’s well over 100 degrees here seems a bit ludicrous but then again we enjoy those kinds of contrasts.

Sure enough, July 1st rolls around and Caroline is hearing from Katharina that she’s landed in San Francisco and is disoriented by the fact that she left New Zealand before she arrived in California, such is the magic of time zones and fast intercontinental travel. Five hours later and here she is with what amounts to her winter clothes. Her backpack ended up on some other flight and is hopefully being rerouted to Arizona where it will be delivered to us within a day or so.

Before dropping off Caroline back at her office we stopped at Valle Luna for our niece to try Mexican food because we’re in the Southwest y’all. Okay, that was way more Texas than Arizona but comic moments have to be found where they can. Being a vegetarian she opted for the cheese enchiladas and was far braver trying the salsa than I’d expected.

I still wasn’t done with my European backlog of blogging chores but fortunately for me, she was patient and sat with me until I finished and her aunt finished her day at work. We’ll go slow in case jet lag hits her and then on Thursday we’ll head out to Somewhere, America, and see what we can discover. By the way, Katharina is now 19 years old.

Leaving Bisbee

Caroline Wise and Joan Ruane in Bisbee, Arizona

I don’t know that there was ever a workshop Caroline didn’t enjoy and this one was no different. The comradery and meeting people who play important roles in the fiber arts world are part of the allure. Here’s Caroline with renowned cotton expert Joan Ruane.

Caroline Wise in Bisbee, Arizona

The workshop is over. We are fed and about to drive north. While the scenery down around Bisbee was a nice change from the coffee shops I’m constantly in, it will be the environs of Starbucks I’ll be returning to as I race to finish the blogging chores regarding Europe. The reason for the emphasis on getting the writing behind me is that our niece Katharina will be dropping in on us starting July 1st and staying until the 20th, so I’d like to be able to pay attention to her instead of more ramblings about Croatia.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

It turns out that blogging is not always an exacting thing, though ideally, it would be sequential without changes to the history of things. And while I want to leave things where they belong, it happened that the original post for this Bisbee weekend was one long, all-inclusive missive about our weekend, with me leaving out an entire section about the Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona. After a subsequent visit in early 2023, I noticed the omission, so I harvested some of the old photos from that day and created a new post for that trip; it can be found by clicking here. I should also point out that this repair of the posts from here in 2019 was performed in the summer of 2023.

Fiber Workshop in Bisbee

Bisbee area in Southern Arizona

I’m in America, but America is having a hard time finding its way back into me. The confrontation of conformity bludgeons me from the uniform aesthetic of architecture to the uniforms worn by factions belonging more to wolf packs than to individuals. We are a polarized society living in the segregated, class-divided enclaves of our version of normal. America is no longer able to call itself a diverse society unified by an ideal as we have fragmented into isolated interest groups that do not trust others who are not like themselves.

Bisbee area in Southern Arizona

Out in the nowhere of quiet America, we are away from the noise and are able to find the harmony where we need not consume the pablum that is dulling what made this country great. In my view, our greatness was so vast and abundant that we had a ready supply for the rest of Earth, and what gave us that was our curiosity to explore the horizons of what we didn’t know. This idea is now relegated to vague concepts shown to us in the movies of fictional heroes where people, good and bad, take risks. The average person today simply struggles to find a slightly better-paying job, health care, money for emergencies, and a free weekend to get out of town.

Bisbee area in Southern Arizona

Like herd animals, we stand behind the strong leader who is hand-fed money, making them loyal to us but never do they dare share even a small part of their strength and position of privilege. We stand in the back, distracted, looking at the sock puppet in the corner, never realizing that even our fur has been stolen to benefit someone else.

Being down south near Bisbee, Arizona, has allowed me a brief respite from the incessant blogging of our trip to Europe that is keeping me effectively locked on vacation and in a European mindset while I’ve been physically among a bunch of people I resent for their abhorrent blandness. Their interest in being present, curious, aware, and finding education feels non-existent, as though it was thoroughly and completely lost. I expect that behavior from animals, dirt, mountains, and insects but not from my fellow Americans.

Bisbee area in Southern Arizona

It’s as though we mined everything good out of who we were and replaced it with a giant hole filled with air. The thing is that when I visit the incredible expanse of beauty that stretches from the Atlantic to the Pacific, I must look within to interpret and give value to what I’m perceiving with my senses. When among the throngs of humanity, I need to encounter a similar expanse of potential that should stretch from the left ear to the right one. Falling into a bottomless pit only triggers my fear of exposure, where I might lose my footing and tumble into the abyss.

Bisbee, Arizona

I encountered a breath of fresh air as I met Amber at the Bisbee Soap & Sundry. Scott Jaeger of Industrial Music Electronics up in Washington, upon hearing that Caroline and I were heading south to Bisbee, suggested we make a stop at this shop to visit with the owners, his friends Amber and Mark. Scott wasn’t wrong, as it’s instantly obvious that the proprietors are well-grounded people, and at least my encounter with half the team was a great one. I left with a dozen bars scented with creosote, tobacco & bay, vetiver, and lemongrass.

Caroline Wise in Bisbee, Arizona

Back over at the fiber retreat, I spy a while on Caroline in her element as, without recognizing that I’ve snuck in, she enthusiastically introduces a few other ladies to her work in making objects using the sprang method.

From Wikipedia: Sprang is an ancient method of constructing fabric that has a natural elasticity. Its appearance is similar to netting, but unlike netting, sprang is constructed entirely from warp threads. Archaeological evidence indicates that sprang predates knitting; the two needlework forms bear a visible resemblance and serve similar functions but require different production techniques.

Caroline Wise in Bisbee, Arizona

Caroline is pictured here with Louie Garcia, a weaver, spinner, and teacher from the Tiwa/Piro Pueblo in New Mexico. She’s wanted to take a workshop with this guy for years and was afraid that her last-minute registration for the event would end up excluding her, but luck was on her side, and she was not only able to learn from him during the day but the keynote after dinner was also being given by Louie.

Bisbee area in Southern Arizona

Think about it a moment: if we’d have had the ability to build these kinds of barricades and hostile fences when our forefathers were rounding up and isolating Louie Garcia’s ancestors who were the original inhabitants of the lands we grabbed for ourselves, we would have put them under even harsher conditions than we did and would be dealing with the guilt of such inhumane treatment. I wonder how many years it will take before we look at these barriers with disdain that we’d begrudge so many people for trying to survive within an economic system that manufactures disparities that foster conditions that force people to struggle for basic survival.

Bisbee area in Southern Arizona

The agave is reaching the clouds this year, leaving us wondering what exactly are the conditions that lead them to be taller in certain years and significantly shorter in others.

Coronado National Memorial in Southern Arizona

My day out on the road and in thought concludes at the Coronado National Memorial before returning to Bisbee for Caroline and me to get some dinner and head back to our remote getaway.

Weekend in Bisbee, Arizona

Somewhere on the way to Bisbee, Arizona

We arrived in the late afternoon on Friday for the 2019 Bisbee Fiber Arts Retreat & Gathering that Caroline is attending. It was just at the last minute on Wednesday when she learned of it, and with some encouragement, she booked herself a spot, and I found us a place to stay.

Near Bisbee, Arizona

We’re staying at Lisa Thompson’s Thunder Mountain Ranch, available on Airbnb. Lisa raises alpacas out here under the Milky Way. Astonishment is the only way to describe the feeling when we once again find ourselves deep in the desert before the moon rises and look at the billions of stars that fill our vision. Now, if only I’d wake tomorrow morning with my vision cleared of constantly living with our recent journey into Europe. Why do I have that feeling? It’s because every day we’ve been back, I return to our trip in order to finish transcribing my notes and bringing them together with a selection of photos I shot so they may all sit here on my blog into the future.

Frankfurt to Phoenix

Frankfurt, Germany

We went out for an early morning walk to try to combat the total lack of movement we’ll be enduring while crammed into our seats for the more than 11-hour trek back to Phoenix later today.

Frankfurt, Germany

Klaus told us of a foot and bike path that runs along the Nidda River and even volunteered to wake early with us so we could get a short 10km (6 miles) walk in before breakfast.

Frankfurt, Germany

It’s simply beautiful out here. If nothing else about our time spent in Germany this year, we learned that we’ve never invested enough in exploring the points between here and there on foot.

Frankfurt, Germany

When we were on our way back to Haus Engelhardt, we made an effort to pass Speisekammer, where I inquired about what time they opened. Seeing we had to head to the airport at 12:30, we could hardly eat here one more time if they didn’t open until 11:30 or later, but luck would have it that they open at 11:00, so it seemed settled that we’d just have to take up some seats as their first customers of the day.

Frankfurt, Germany

Handkäs mit Musik with farmers’ bread because I can never have enough of this stuff when on pilgrimage in this city on the Main River.

Caroline Wise in Frankfurt, Germany

Frankfurter grüne Sauce mit gekochten Eiern und Petersilienkartoffeln with a glass of Apfelwein is the only way to indulge the senses right up to the last minute before racing to the airport. See ya later, Frankfurt.

Iceland

There’s a small town out there near the middle of the photo at the water’s edge called Dalvik, and the little island in front of it is Hrisey. What a great day to be flying.

Greenland

This is Greenland because it’s not Antarctica, and no, it’s not the North Pole either because the ice and snow float on the sea because there’s no continent up there, remember?

Greenland

I can’t believe this incredible view we’re being offered from around 35,000 feet above sea level.

Labrador Sea

The Labrador Sea, where I cannot see a polar bear running across the ice no matter how close I look.

Wyoming

Looks like Wyoming to me; we must be close to home.

Phoenix, Arizona

And then here we are soon to touch down in this arid place in the desert we call home.