Los Angeles

Caroline Wise at Cafe Gunul 2 in Los Angeles, California

It’s time to renew Caroline’s German passport and the only place to do that nearby is over in Los Angeles at the German Consulate. With an appointment for early Monday morning and not a lot found to entertain us this weekend we were in no rush to make the drive to California. So on Saturday morning we woke without the assistance of the alarm, straightened up our place so we’d return to a relatively clean apartment, and headed out for breakfast and the nearly six-hour drive west.

Upon arrival in Los Angeles, trying to deal with the aggressive driving, we were hungry and in need of a break. We knew well beforehand that we’d be stopping in at Cafe Gunul 2 for some army stew. After our visit here almost exactly a year ago when we first indulged on this Korean fusion comfort food we said we’d return for the stew that takes upwards of 30 minutes to prepare. Turns out that at 2:00 in the afternoon it only takes minutes for your gallon pot of tofu, sausage, spam, pork belly, ramen noodles, squash, mushrooms, kimchi, and cheese to be brought to your table while it is still nearly boiling. It was well worth the visit and agree that we wouldn’t mind sharing it again.

John Wise in reflection

This being summer finding a hotel at the last minute last week wasn’t easy plus I wanted us to be near the Consulate so we’d not have to deal with trying to cross even a small corner of this city on a Monday morning. Our couple of nights would be taken near the corners of Western and Wilshire Boulevards which was only about 3.5 miles east of Monday’s appointment. With our inertia having come to a complete stop following our trough of army stew, the last thing we wanted to do was venture out, but it was still so early in the afternoon it was silly to consider collapsing and so off to coffee we went. The photo is a screenshot of some synth related stuff that has to do with “Grainz” that I received while hanging out at Starbucks.

Korean Shopping Center in Los Angeles, California

For years we’ve been using smartphones but still, I’m enchanted by talking to my phone asking it for the nearest something or other, and its ability to zero in on making suggestions that are close to my current location. Today I was inquiring about a theater and a small place only five minutes away was at the top of the list. Turns out that it was a Korean theater showing The Lion King, not exactly what I had in mind. The film we ended up watching wasn’t something I had in mind either but the total lack of awareness about it was intriguing. The movie was called, “The King’s Letters” and though it was in Korean it was subtitled, sort of. I say that because the translation was sketchy at points. The story followed a thread of how the written Korean language might have been created.

Korean fast food in Los Angeles, California

Army stew, coffee, a film we’d never be able to watch in Phoenix, and then some shopping and snacking (pictured: egg, shrimp, and cheese on toast) in an Asian-centric outdoor mall made for a perfect Saturday in Los Angeles. Then there was also that dessert of cream puffs at Beard Papa’s. I have to admit that we were uncertain about leaving Arizona as in the days before our departure we couldn’t find anything to do over in Southern California but spontaneity and our interest in most all things (not including professional sports) let us be fully entertained with our choices.

Rothem and Liam in Los Angeles, California

Come Sunday we needed to wake early as the decision to avoid L.A. traffic had been made so we’d keep our car in the garage and walk where we wanted to go. Before leaving Phoenix the one thing that had been fixed on was meeting the Bravermans for breakfast. They suggested a place called Republique on La Brea which worked out fine for us as it was only 2.5 miles from our hotel. Liam, their 4-month old new baby boy was the toast of breakfast. While we talked about the general tensions of living in Los Angeles we mostly focused on Itay and Rotem’s new roles as parents and how many people have offered bad or unwanted advice on how to be a parent.

To the consternation of the bussers in uber-trendy hipster Republique, who by 10:00 had a line of probably 50 people down the sidewalk, we were there to camp out and catch up with our friends. After nearly 3 hours at our table, we couldn’t take the subtle harassment anymore and finally relinquished our grip and left.

Los Angeles, California

That was supposed to be it for visiting these friends who became a family in the intervening months since we last met, but after Caroline and I continued our walk north up La Brea stopping for coffee on the corner with Santa Monica Blvd., Itay reached out inviting us over should we be in the area this afternoon. Well, we were just a mile around the corner at this point. By 2:00 p.m. we were once again meeting with the Braverman family.

Liam Braverman in Los Angeles, California

Mother’s milk, computers, mixed drinks, strong coffee, social issues surrounding politics, and family dynamics took us in conversation up to the early evening when hunger got us moving towards the exit. Not having eaten since breakfast I took Itay up on his offer to give us a ride back towards our hotel where a host of Korean BBQs with all-you-can-eat menus were found all over our neighborhood. Stuffed we waddled back to our hotel with hopes of getting to sleep early for our 8:00 a.m. appointment down the street.

Believe it or not, on Monday morning we had breakfast at McDonald’s and then in the blink of an eye, we were in and out of the consulate and just as quickly on our way back to Arizona.

Katharina – Salt River Wild Horses

Wild Horses at Salt River in Arizona

Today is Kat’s last day in America but that didn’t mean we’d not try to do something spectacular to close out this leg of her gap year and brief three-week vacation in America. We woke shortly after 4:00 in the wee hours of the morning with about 90 minutes to go before the sun would rise. After dropping Caroline off at her office our niece and I continued across the Valley of the Sun over to the Salt River.

Since Katharina arrived on the first of July from New Zealand we have traveled over 2,192 miles with her here in the Southwest, which at 3,528 kilometers is about the same as driving from Barcelona, Spain, to Moscow, Russia. Our destinations have included the Petrified Forest National Park, Grand Canyon National Park, Chaco Culture National Historic Park, Canyon de Chelly National Monument, the Navajo and Zuni Reservations, the San Juan Mountains, Heard Museum, the Desert Botanical Garden, the Colorado River, Sedona, and a horse sanctuary right here in Phoenix. These places took us into the northeast corner of Arizona, the southwest corner of Colorado, northwest New Mexico, and we dipped into southern Utah.

Our niece has tried Mexican food, Korean food, a Piccadilly (Navajo shave ice), various pizzas, pancakes, pizza cookies, and cheesecake. All the while she was able to maintain being a vegetarian which she chose to practice while in New Zealand. She got a judo practice in, visited the gym a few times with her Aunt Caroline, rode a mule into the Grand Canyon, went horseback riding in Sedona, and obviously from these photos had the chance to photograph and visit with the wild horses of the Salt River.

Along the way she’s been offered countless cups of coffee (she doesn’t drink it), cigarettes (she doesn’t smoke), marijuana in Colorado (it’s legal for recreational use but she doesn’t smoke that either), tattoos weren’t appealing, we couldn’t get her to cuss so I made up for it by cussing all the time. Even when we tried to turn her to another kind of vice by offering her beer or hard alcohol she was able to abstain, good thing too, as she’s only 19 and we’d have been contributing to the delinquency of someone to whom it’s illegal to give alcohol. She didn’t want a haircut, she vigilantly wore sunblock, she stayed awake for our long drives, didn’t get car sick once (she’s quite prone to that), she didn’t complain about me listening to Rammstein or dubstep in the car but I don’t think she liked either. Boba tea didn’t go over well, nor did deep dish pizza but she made up for most everything with enthusiastic laughter.

Wild Horses at Salt River in Arizona

Like all young people, and creatures too, our niece is only now stepping out on her own and still has lots to learn. She may not know it yet but she’s got a big journey ahead of her where each step offers her experiences that will help define her evolving perspectives which will hopefully grow as she continues to mature. We learn best when others give us nudges that help keep us on the right path and just like with the horses she adores, sometimes a sharp bite or solid kick (metaphorically speaking) is needed to bring attention to a drifting awareness. Most of all though we need compassion and love and while we may not be well-practiced in how to best share that, it doesn’t mean we don’t try our best to give of ourselves and find compromise when we are not getting our way.

Wild Horses at Salt River in Arizona

It’s been nice to run around the Southwest with Katharina and show her a different way of life of two people she hardly knew when she landed here. She left the winter of New Zealand and dropped into our summer heat in the desert and has done great keeping up with us and helping us think about the way we do and see things so we might better understand a teenager. I’m guessing that the next time we spend some serious time with her she may likely be in her career following the next four years of university she’s returning to Germany for. For now, she still feels like an adolescent to us oldies but given a bit more time she’ll join the ranks of adults, and if she’s lucky she’ll still be laughing and ready for other adventures.

Katharina – Horseback Riding

Katharina Engelhardt horseback riding in Sedona, Arizona

We woke at 5:30 in order to be on the road by 6:00 to provide us some “getting lost” time in finding M Diamond Ranch. Katharina is going for a 3-hour ride on Cinnamon into the hills near Sedona with Jackie as her guide. The cowboy on hand took Kat over to a stand where it’s easier to mount horses and made the final adjustments to the saddle so our niece would have a pleasant ride. Without fanfare, they quickly moved out of the corral and disappeared into the thicket.

Katharina Engelhardt horseback riding in Sedona, Arizona

I’m calling this one “German Woman on Cinnamon among the Cactus.”

Katharina Engelhardt horseback riding in Sedona, Arizona

Caroline and I returned to the ranch after breakfast around 9:30, and although it was getting hot, there were no signs of Jackie and Katharina. Then, shortly before 10:00, I see their heads emerging out of the heavy brush up the trail, and I’m thrilled that Kat stayed out for the duration of the scheduled ride. We hear about her horse being a well-behaved ride, that she passed on cantering, saw some petroglyphs along the trail, and generally had a great time riding a western saddled horse out in the desert on a summer day. Normally, she rides English saddle in Germany, where the desert is an exotic concept, and she’d never been on a horse for three consecutive hours. The young woman might look young for her age, and she can definitely work on her communication skills (most of us can), but she can be tough when she chooses.

Katharina Engelhardt and Caroline Wise taking a selfie at dinner in Phoenix, Arizona

Later in the day, it was time to head back to the Foothills Recreation and Aquatic Center in Glendale for another practice round with the Desert Judo group. The only problem was that others hadn’t arrived yet, and things didn’t look good for the practice happening tonight, so we went to dinner instead. Over at Claim Jumper Restaurant, after an already impossibly large meal, Kat felt intrigued enough by the monster-sized chocolate cake that she simply had to try it. Most of it came home with us; I wonder if we’ll still be looking at it in our fridge after she leaves Saturday morning?

Katharina – Going to Sedona

Fire near Crown King, Arizona

Picked up Caroline from her office about 30 minutes early and headed north for an overnight up in Sedona. Turns out this fire up near Crown King was burning Sunday night when we passed through the area on our way home from the Grand Canyon, but under the cover of darkness, we couldn’t see the smoke. Katharina has an early morning appointment near Sedona that would have required us to leave Phoenix shortly before 4:00 in the morning, so grabbing a cheap room up north felt in order.

Katharina Engelhardt in Sedona, Arizona

We made it up to this corner of the red rocks before sunset, allowing Kat to capture some of the sights she’ll likely miss in the morning as our route will take us south out of town. Matter of fact, we’ll be heading out so early that besides Denny’s, there won’t be anything else open for breakfast. Once up this way, I wanted to run us up to Oak Creek Canyon for the drive past Slide Rock up to Flagstaff, but remaining daylight is not in our favor, and most dinner options on a summer Tuesday night in Sedona end at 9:00, so we’ll need to tend to that too.

Sedona, Arizona

We only had time for a few short impressions as the sun was going to set at 7:40, so we stopped for a quick shot and continued further up the road.

Katharina Engelhardt in Sedona, Arizona

Everything was going great until we recognized that Kat seemed to be getting too much sun. We’d been trying to convince her to drink more water and wear more sunblock, but she thought .25 liters of SPF 50 per day was enough. Now she knows that in the Arizona desert, you wear SPF 250 and drink gallons of water, or this happens. It’s a shame to see our 19-year-old niece seeming to age right before our eyes.

Caroline Wise in Sedona, Arizona

The constant knitting, weaving, audiobooks, tea, and folk music have allowed Caroline to age gracefully, and even as she approaches her senior years, I gotta say that my wife is still one of the hottest women I’ve known, and if she were to ask me again to marry her, I wouldn’t hesitate. Sure, the wrinkles are getting thicker, but those eyes still pull me in, and I just melt as we smile at each other.

John Wise in Sedona, Arizona

As for me, well, spending more than two weeks with our niece has exacted a heavy toll on my nerves, and the stress has turned my hair white and generally made me look like a candidate to play Santa Claus this coming Christmas. I’m seriously considering some plastic surgery and maybe even dying my hair after she leaves this Saturday. Let this serve as a warning to others that 19-year-olds hanging out with you 24 hours a day will steal your remaining youth and turn you into an old person prematurely.

Sunset in Sedona, Arizona

Oops, almost missed the sunset while playing with that stupid FaceApp that Brinn brought to my attention. After a couple more photos of the fading light, we made our way over to Cucina Rustica for some very reasonable Italian cooking that would draw us back. Then, under the full moon stained red by the smoke that had been drifting up to Sedona from the fire we passed earlier, we were at our cheapo motel and trying to get to sleep quickly for our 5:30 alarm.

Katharina – A Day In Phoenix

Katharina Engelhardt and Brinn at Hodori Korean Restaurant in Mesa, Arizona

So how do you like that Korean food? Brinn called me earlier asking if I’d like to join him at our favorite Korean place in the Phoenix area called Hodori. Katharina said that she wouldn’t mind trying it, so Brinn met with us for the drive to Mesa for lunch. We figured out that the Bibim Bap with tofu might be the most accessible dish for Kat, hopefully, it was okay.

Katharina Engelhardt and Brinn Aaron at Hodori BBQ in Mesa, Arizona

Thanks to Brinn for introducing us to this viral moment where seemingly everyone used FaceApp to age themselves.

Katharina Engelhardt trying a Boba Tea in Mesa, Arizona

I tried convincing Brinn that our niece does NOT like caffeinated drinks and that even a sweetened one with mango and boba would likely be lost on Kat, but he insisted that trying new things was a good thing and bought her one. Two sips and she asked if anyone minded if she threw it away.

Doodle by Katharina Engelhardt in Mesa, Arizona

This here was Kat’s contribution to the wall of graffiti behind her.

Foothills Recreation Center in Glendale, Arizona

Later in the day, we headed over to the Foothills Recreation and Aquatics Center where the Desert Judo group meets on Mondays and Wednesdays.

Katharina Engelhardt at Desert Judo in Glendale, Arizona

Kat didn’t have many opportunities in New Zealand to attend judo practice and so when she found a dojo near Caroline and me she signed herself up to visit.

Note from Kat: They didn’t have a full judo gi for me so I was only wearing a jacket. I’ve never done judo in shorts before.

Katharina Engelhardt at Desert Judo in Glendale, Arizona

Turns out that after 10 years of practice Kat is only a belt away from becoming a black belt.

Katharina Engelhardt at Desert Judo in Glendale, Arizona

With an invitation to return Wednesday night the very gracious group led by Sensei Russ finished up shortly before 9:00 and the three of us went for dinner. I don’t think the Cheesecake Factory was a favorite of our niece, neither the meal nor the cheesecake, which is not too surprising as Caroline and I don’t think this place is all that exceptional either. We did learn that pineapple upside-down cheesecake is coming back which will likely draw Caroline and me back before it disappears from the menu again.

Katharina – Grand Canyon Day 2

Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Just try to get a teenager out of bed at the break of dawn, but for us oldies, just try to get us to sleep past the sun creeping over the horizon. If yer gonna have a rustic cabin on the rim of the Grand Canyon and the porch has rocking chairs, you’d be a fool not to at least use those things for a minute or two, so while I tried taking photos into the sunlight that weren’t working, Caroline sat here tanning the soles of her feet watching me dart to and fro looking for the perfect photo that never happened.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Taking a walk over to the south-facing overlook offered up some nice views of the other side of the Canyon, but it wasn’t the same without our niece joining us, so we went back to the cabin and got her moving so she too, could witness how the sun floods into the Canyon and changes the way things look as the colors return to vibrancy.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

This photo, while in shadows, is great on my computer monitor at full resolution, but looking at it here on my blog on my notebook screen where I’m writing, it leaves a bit to be desired. Hopefully, enough of the two ladies can be seen to prove that this was, in truth, our place for the night at least once in our lives.

Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

We had an early appointment in front of the main lodge building where the girls were going to be taken up the road to the North Kaibab trailhead to meet their mules. Caroline is seen here mounting Cobra, who will take her down to the Supai Tunnel. Should you wonder about my motivation to post this particular photo, let me help you understand that, yes, I’m putting this here because I think that my 51-year-old wife still has it!

Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Cobra and Caroline going where I cannot because these mules don’t like fat asses such as myself. At 235 pounds I’m 36 pounds too big for them to safely transport me on the narrow, steep trails. Sad that this is my truth, but then again, I’m 50 pounds lighter than I was four years ago. By the way, doesn’t Caroline have about the greatest smile ever?

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

This was kind of like going whitewater rafting, where you get to the boat, get on board, and push off without much time to think about what you are going to do. The ladies weren’t on the mules for more than a few minutes before they were quickly following Kitty, the trail guide. I tried getting Katharina’s attention for a photo or two, but she was in the zone for riding and not posing. She’s right behind Caroline and Cobra here, riding Ellie.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Aunt and niece in the saddle for a truly Western experience, heading into the Grand Canyon on a summer day.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Down the dusty trail, they walked in single file as their cantankerous mules begrudgingly at times carried them forward. Going down, I was told things went quite smoothly.

Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

But on the way back up, it seems the extra strain on the mules had them farting up a storm of noxious gas. If their butts could carry a note, they might have been singing as they worked hard to carry their charges back to the corral, where cool water and more food would be waiting for them.

Near the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

We’ve started heading home, and although it’s early, we can be certain that we’ll be encountering some heavy traffic as during the summer, it often seems like half the city heads north to escape the heat. With so many people up north, they must all get themselves back home in order to go to work on Monday, so we can’t linger too long.

Caroline Wise and Katharina Engelhardt at the Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Even with time constraints, we can’t just speed past everything, so a stop at Lees Ferry was in order for Katharina to stand here at the point on the Colorado River where her aunt and I departed on our trip through the Grand Canyon nearly ten years ago.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Maybe because it’s about 100 degrees (38 Celsius), the water, while chilly, didn’t feel all that cold today. This was the first riffle we passed back in 2010, and from my perspective, in the dory, it looked like pretty big whitewater to me. Today, I can see that it’s really nothing at all but a small disturbance, yet back then, we were starting a major journey into something large and unknown, kind of like our niece, who is moving out of adolescence and onto university before starting a career that will hopefully offer her many opportunities in life to explore some things she could have never imagined.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Being on the Colorado River at the beginning of the Grand Canyon seemed like the perfect spot to set up for some horse photography, so Kat might take some very personal memories of this adventure.

Horse on the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

The results Kat achieves with her model horses in natural settings are pretty awesome. Great eye, Katharina.

Grand Canyon National Park in Arizona

Navajo Bridge over the Colorado River is our last stop for photographs. From here, we need to focus on driving south, with a brief visit in Flagstaff at the Red Curry Vegan Kitchen for dinner, and then on to dealing with the heavy traffic that is the cost of traveling north during summer in Arizona.