Nope and Nope

Kirkland, Arizona

Nice day for a drive, we thought, nope. A wonderful day to visit a yarn store in Prescott, Arizona, nope. Great day to have confidence in my fellow American, nope.

Well, the drive was okay, but we were gone for six hours, and besides making headway into Thomas Mann’s The Magic Mountain and having a nice lunch, we did not accomplish what we set out to do. Our intention was for Caroline to support the shop in Prescott, where she bought her loom, but their laissez-faire regard for having customers or their staff wear masks had us walk up to the door and turn around. With seven people in this small shop and six of them not wearing masks, we were not about to toss off five months of vigilance in order to spend money. So we left.

We took the scenic route this morning, heading west for a visit to this city north of us. Through Wickenburg, Congress, Yarnell, over to Kirkland, and past Skull Valley, we entered Prescott from the west side. First off, the traffic on this normally quiet road was heavy, not quite traffic jam heavy, but enough that impatience had a lot of drivers speeding over solid yellow lines in curves to race past the six cars in front of us. I guess this is what is being talked about when people are checking out the local area. Well, we did a lot of this in years past, so now, with this kind of traffic, the slow meander on the back roads loses much of its former appeal.

Prescott could be considered a small town in a nearly rural area, although, until 1899, it was the Arizona state capitol. That these out-of-the-way places have been missing out on the pandemic shows in the cavalier attitude of the people living there regarding the need to wear masks. As we stood outside the yarn shop, considering our options, I noticed what seemed to be more than half of the people heading into shops not wearing masks. Leaving the plaza with a serious amount of disappointment and anger at myself for not just “dealing” with it and going shopping after our two-hour drive, we went for lunch. We called our order in from the parking lot and waited 10 minutes for it to come up. Sitting there watching others, I was again wondering: where are the masks?

While here in Phoenix, I still see the reduced traffic, and the number of people at our local stores still seems light; up north of us, it looks like business as usual. A popular joint on the side of the highway in Black Canyon City was packed if the number of cars was a valid indicator, plague or not, people gonna have their pie. Once we were back in Phoenix, there was a pop-up “Trump 2020” tent hawking propaganda in the parking lot of a strip club, and while the two seem to go together, I can’t help but think that the association diminishes the reputation of such a place.

Mind of the Rabbit

Rabbit

I watch the rabbit, and it watches me. He or she is a small bunny sitting motionless about 10 feet away. It just stares while not moving a hair. But I’m only in a small fraction of its vision with that one dark black eye on the right side of its head pointing at me. What does it see with the eye I cannot see? What does it think while it watches the potential threat that wasn’t so threatening that, on my approach it held its ground?

I’ve seen this rabbit before, or at least I think it is the same one. It’s likely seen me more times than that as it maintains its stealthy position low to the ground and often behind bushes. Initially, I thought the rabbit somehow missed seeing me walk up to it and that I’d startle it to run away in just a second, but instead, it seemed to track me with that one dark eye. Maybe it knows I’m a predator as it sees this creature with two eyes trained on it while it has an eye on the other side of its head to maintain maximum coverage of everything around it. If I’m a predator and it runs, maybe I’ll give chase? Strange how it’s almost blind to what’s in front of it, but what need is there to see your food when staring at it might make you food for someone else. So there we are two creatures on two different planes of consciousness, just looking at each other.

I’m out on my walk and have nothing better to do than stand here and stare. Apparently, the rabbit is feeling likewise. It’s obviously not only looking out for food or a mate, as it has time for this encounter. Then I start wondering, how is this other creature seeing me? What is going through its mind? I know I’m supposed to believe that the rabbit is only operating on an instinctual machine-like mechanism and any other desire of me to imbue it with anything else risks anthropomorphizing it. But how can I be certain that there isn’t a kind of joy when the rabbit plays with another rabbit, or maybe it enjoys a type of weather more than another? Is there any gratification when finding a favorite food?

I wonder if, as we as a species become more proficient at electronically reading our own minds. we’ll be able to turn that technology on animals at some point and see what they are thinking? Could we handle their thoughts? What if thoughts and feelings among the various species were as complex as our own, but we’d discounted their potential intelligence due to the lack of having an opposable thumb? Would we enjoy knowing their fear of us? Are we their COVID-19? Are we the apex virus? What exactly is our intention of taking our species to other planets, and how will the DNA we carry alter those places and species that might be encountered? Do we ever begin to understand the larger arc of group-think driving humanity and what our ultimate intentions really are? Maybe our ideas of benevolence are a self-deception that only other species can really see.

Later, on my afternoon walk under the sweltering sun that boils the air to a languid 108 degrees of Fahrenheit hell, the rabbits are nowhere to be seen. Few birds are out and about; even the lizards are taking a siesta. They seem to be taking shelter from the heat; only the two-legged super predator is stalking the environment, in the form of myself. Maybe they want to venture out, but we’ve controlled their landscape and rationed resources, so with concrete, asphalt, and limited plant cover, they must rest from the struggle to move within our maze.

On the other hand, maybe they are just chilling out. Just as we move indoors to find comfort from the scorching sun, could they be in their burrows and nests, snuggling with their family and celebrating that the morning’s search for food was successful? We can’t know their life as we barely know our own. We go about much of what we do as a response to conditioning and the need to satisfy a whim, often induced by clever marketing that convinces us to head out for that drive-thru to collect a coffee or a Big Mac. How many things do we do over the course of the day as a kind of automatic routine that could be seen as being from a dumb instinctual animal?

When we are thinking about nothing in particular and our thoughts are wandering over a landscape with an uncritical eye, are we experiencing the mind of the rabbit? I’d like to say this phenomenon of the quiet brain is a new artifact of this older person carrying it around, as I do have distinct memories of a racket of thought that seemingly never shut off when I was younger. Strangely enough, this former version of John who certainly lends his observations and experiences to the current John, is nonetheless a wholly different person I can no longer reconnect with. It’s almost as though I see myself from the past with a single dark eye from one side of my head, and I’m only in the peripheral vision while the majority of my attention is taken up by the other 98% of what I currently see. Maybe we are not so different from the rabbit.

1,000 Miles

Noon Sky in Phoenix

Measured in distance, I’ve been self-isolating for 1,000 miles. Over 2 million steps in 143 days and maybe an equal number of sheets of toilet paper; I don’t keep track of that last statistic, so that’s a shot in the dark. It’s midday and inching ever closer to 110 degrees, which is a relief as some days ago, we pressed into 118 blaring degrees of Fahrenheit or 48 Celsius. Today, I was outside to not only ensure I reach that one-thousand-mile mark today but it’s also because I’m doing the Prolon modified fast again. There’s something about a highly calorie-restricted diet that makes me restless when I’m not napping, and I’ve got to get out and walk. With my river hat on acting as shade and my ever-lengthening curly hair protecting my neck, I venture out.

I just looked at the walking route between Madrid, Spain, and Amsterdam in the Netherlands, which comes to 1,043 miles. That path would take me through Antwerp and Brussels before hitting the French border. Once in France, I’d pass through Saint-Quentin on my way to Paris, the next 337 miles would take in a good stretch of the Loire river valley. Where Google says I should leave the river and head toward Château de Chambord, which would certainly be dandy to visit, I think I’d rather deviate to Tours to take in the 850-year-old cathedral. South, my journey would bring me to Poitiers, where I could walk in the footsteps of Eleanor of Aquitaine. I don’t so much care about Eleanor, but the name Aquitaine has always beguiled me; so to say I’ve been to Aquitaine would be a feather in my chapeau. This detour is paying off as not only will we pass through Cognac, but Bordeaux is on the path to the Spanish border. Again, Google gets it wrong keeping the trail inland when right there at Bayonne; it’s only 5 miles to Biarritz, and who wouldn’t want to hang out there for a couple of days?

Donostia-San Sebastian on the Spanish coast is just 28 miles south of the mini-vacation on this long walk. I swear this is the last detour as we are now approaching 1,200 miles as we deviate over to Bilbao. But this will be great as the walk now leads through Burgos, and if I’m presented with the opportunity to walk in Clint Eastwood’s shoes in Burgos, where the iconic cemetery showdown scene was filmed for The Good, the Bad and the Ugly, I’m going. From here, it’s only 160 miles to Madrid. I thought about heading home from Madrid, but if we fly over to Naples, Italy, it’ll only be 872 miles of walking to hit up Frankfurt and visit with family. All told this adventure would be approximately 2,000 miles of walking, and at the rate of progress regarding this plague, I’ll have walked those 2,000 miles in circles around our block while visiting our apartment every single one of those days.

To think how much time we give up to work until the time we may no longer have the vigor to go on 1,000-mile walks is crazy. I hope that realizing this, Caroline and I will one day take the six months of walking a mere 5.5 miles or 8.9 kilometers a day to trek on some amazing journey such as I described above or maybe this one from Vienna, Austria, to Oslo, Norway, that comes in at only 1,012 miles that I’m looking at. Oh, then I see that Brighton, UK, to Inverness in Scotland, is 586 miles, but that would mostly be in the rain, so maybe not that one.

Going to Teaville

Box of tea from The Whistling Kettle

In the ongoing adventure travels of John and Caroline Wise, we are heading out on an Asian journey to Teaville with a chance of taking in Kiambu or Thika over in Kenya. Our exotic voyage from the United States of Plague where we travel without moving to bring the outside world to us will begin with a visit to Golden Yunnan. This black tea originating from China comes to us via The Whistling Kettle in Troy, New York. I presented Caroline with a box of 23 sample packs of teas I was interested in trying and, reaching in blindfolded, she pulled out Golden Yunnan.

On average our tea samples cost $3.65 with the added expense of needing a couple of boxes of their branded tea bags. These drawstring bags that hold enough tea to make 30 ounces at a time were only $8.99 for a box of 100 so our bargain adventure to Teaville will only cost about $1.92 a bottle. I say bottle because we’ll be making iced tea with our samples, which are split in half to make two bottles worth. Just so you know, the sample packs make between 4 and 6 cups of hot tea according to The Whistling Kettle, but it’s summer in the desert so we’ll stick with iced tea. Water cost is inconsequential as we use tap water, so that’s it. Oh, and because our order was greater than $50 shipping was free.

I won’t be attempting to share the subtleties of each tea we try as I’ve never enjoyed the way in which wine is reviewed with language that waxes about frothy hints of periwinkle mingling with sublime notes of Korean gochugaru and undercurrents of Oaxacan chapuline. Nor will you be seeing daily blog entries for my ratings. I might post a weekly update of how the previous 5-7 days of tea travels went, but I make no promises. While I started this blog entry in the morning when I was setting up our first bottle, it is mid-afternoon as I finally get around to taking a photo of the box the samples arrived in. So, as the tea has been steeping at least six hours, I’ll go ahead and try it and offer my fellow intrepid travelers a hint of where Golden Yunnan takes us.

Well, what can I say, it tastes like a very nice smooth black tea and there’s a subtle sweetness to it. I should add that it didn’t bring us even slightly close to Bitter Town or drop us off at the epicenter of Geldverschwendung in Germany. This is one of the two most expensive teas that The Whistling Kettle sells and rightfully so after you read their description:

Few teas produced in the world make the Royal grade and we are proud to offer this tea. Many factors are involved in giving this tea its wonderfully complex flavor. Consisting mainly of high-quality buds that are painstakingly handpicked, these tender, young leaves are covered with fine down. The leaves are then sun withered and placed into a temperature-controlled ‘fermentation room’ that is around 80 F with 85% humidity, to undergo a unique process called ‘pile fermentation’. Small amounts of water is sprayed onto the leaves, then covered with heavy hemp fabric, to help trap the heat inside. Pile height, pile temperature, and method of piling are under constant supervision. This sauna-like environment starts the fermentation process, which eventually causes the buds to turn gold, rather than black. The water content vs. dryness and temperature of the leaves are also constantly monitored, as the success of this process will determine its golden color. Every couple of hours, the leaves need to be turned over, with special care taken not to break the tips of the buds. Thus, no shovels or machinery are used…they do it all by hand…for forty days! This labor-intensive process, along with the quality of the buds, is what makes this artisanal tea truly unique.

Inside The Empty Skull

Cat Skull

I come here without much spleen and a skull that feels relatively empty, but I do need to get on with some writing.

Opening the editor with nothing to say and hoping that this cat skull that now sits in a hydrogen peroxide bath will spark something witty to fall from my imagination feels as futile as thinking this cat might say hello. As a reminder, this skull came to us when Caroline scooped it out of its roadside fur sarcophagus back on June 1st. It wasn’t good enough to just pick it up to get a closer look; she brought it home. After nearly two months of it sitting out on our balcony baking away more of the still decaying flesh clinging to its bones, the wife brought it into the kitchen to finish the task of cleaning things up. Now it sits in that mason jar, looking creepy.

I’m not going to be satisfied in writing about how ghoulish Caroline can be because she’s not really that, she’s just seriously curious. Yeah, I know there are other things to be interested in, but when an opportunity presents itself, she takes the bait. So I sit here waiting for the floodgates of inspiration to strike and instead find the spleen I’ve vented so often about this, that, and the other to be talking to my brain saying, “That shit’s gotten boring, write about something else, ANYTHING else.”

I know: “How about you watch some YouTube?” I can’t be the only person for whom streaming and social media are becoming boring. No, I must turn to this page with 450 words on it already and tie something together so I can be at peace with myself that my fingers are still able to talk for my brain. Speaking of brains, staring at the skull in the jar is radically different than looking at this photo. What I mean to say is that my brain knows the object in the photo, but when looking at the skull itself, there’s a kind of perception where the animal that was embodied can be understood as a living, moving entity and not just the subject frozen in pixels. I can look at the teeth and sense their use during the lifespan of however long this cat lived. The feline that relied upon its mouth to nourish itself could have never had the recognition that nine months after it died, someone would be gazing upon the place its mouth once was and consider how it would have chewed its food or extended its tongue beyond those fangs to help groom itself. While the animated pulse of life is gone, the ghost of its existence survives based on images of other cats I’ve known, as I had no contact with this animal prior to its demise.

Just like me, that cat rose up from the soil after having been birthed, following the encounter of its parents that produced a litter. Its bones, brain, fur, organs, nerves, and curiosity propelled it through a world where it sought out shelter, food, and social interactions with people and other animals. Now it’s silent. Was it a friendly house cat or a feral hissing thing? Did it purr a thousand times in its life or ten thousand times? Could it remember its mother? Are its offspring living in my neighborhood? How does this contrast to my fellow humans?

We are over 7 billion, and I know nearly none of them. They, too are going about lives unaware that someday someone else might be staring at their skulls and wondering what kind of life they had. But bones don’t tell very good stories beyond the obvious biological ones we’ve been able to figure out. We won’t know how they enjoyed music, food, night skies, the affection of others, or the color of their first car. It’s only from these words we attempt to leave for posterity that someone else might come to some greater insight into who inhabited the bones they are contemplating.

So I guess it doesn’t matter if I once again spill my guts of dissatisfaction regarding politics or the state of education, as who would begrudge me for eating pizza 100 times over a lifetime? Every time we return to something, we experience it a little differently, although the nuance of the encounter is typically lost in the repetition of what we accept as a kind of routine. Still, the pizza cannot be the same from maker to maker and what stage we are at in our lives. So, can thoughts and ideas be shared in an identical manner from year to year when we are no longer the person we were a year before?

Today, a train is burning on a bridge in Tempe, Arizona, after it derailed. We as a species and as individuals will not be known by this mechanical anomaly that is being featured with big drama on the news media, and yet that is what we are focused on right now. The U.S. Representative and civil-rights leader John Lewis died recently and while on one hand a common man, he was an extraordinary man that surpassed what many will be able to accomplish in a lifetime. He’ll be remembered as his story has been captured over and again during the nearly 60 years he was politically active. Mass murderers such as Stephen Paddock will find their place in the history of humanity even though he was responsible for the death of 59 people in Las Vegas one night. This is because, at our current stage of development we are still struck by the sideshow, celebrities, and tragedies far more than we are with someone who just goes about their life.

In a universe where no less than 7 billion minds might be able to contemplate their place in the cosmos, we can’t know if, in 50,000 years, anyone will wonder anything more about John Lewis or John Wise as by then, maybe we are just the lost bone fragments and ash from a side branch of evolution that came and went as the previous eight hominid species that walked the Earth in the past 300,000 years did before us.

Then, when I think about what the average Egyptian or Greek might have thought about particular circumstances during classical antiquity, could it possibly have any bearing on how we see anything today? I think the obvious answer is no, but then again, what if the lessons of early people had been codified and our minds had evolved to take from the best lessons and use those to guide ourselves? Some may say that is religion, but I’d disagree as I can’t see most Western religions being about the fundamentals of good living. Instead, they are guides to subservience to the powerful. That, though, is a whole other subject that risks taking this entry off the tiny rail it’s barely skating on. The bigger point was, do we care how somebody saw their world in 300 B.C. or even in 1930? Well, I do, and if I could peer over the shoulder of someone preparing dinner 2,000 years ago in Italy or read the diary of a person in western Africa after being raided by slave traders, I’d be up to be that fly on the wall.

Go back further, and I certainly would love to watch the people who were painting horses and other animals in Chauvet Cave 35,000 years ago, and if all that was available was a transcript, I’d take it. Share with me a real day in the life 130,000 years ago of one of the earliest Neanderthals and how they saw their world. I’d sign up for a front-row ticket. In this capacity, I write as someone who may as well be from the Homo erectus branch of archaic humans. Like them, I know how to use fire, tools, and desire to care for others, most notably Caroline. Unlike them, I have some limited mastery of abstract symbolic tools that only require gestures for me to extract knowledge from an electronic library and to communicate with others. But ask me if I believe that after 2 million years of hominin evolution, I believe we are on the cusp of enlightenment, and I’d have to say we are likely still hundreds of thousands of years away. Collectively, we are too primitive and enraged to qualify as truly smart and aware.

Ten thousand years from now, I think my quaint musings on whatever topic will appear primitive and nearly stone-age, and that’s if they are even retrievable. From a pair of eyes out of the future, might someone look upon my metaphoric skull wondering about what this creature was chewing on that they felt compelled to leave some hints about just one more anonymous life amongst the trillions that preceded it? How long will they stare at the word shell of John, trying to decipher what kind of Homo sapiens I was? I wonder what kind of voice the cat, I will never listen to, had. I can only wonder.

Laugenbrezel

Laugenbrezel aka German Soft Pretzel

Caroline donned her baking hat again and this time made us some soft German pretzels known as Laugenbrezel. Her flour of choice was spelt chosen from the long list of flours we now have on hand. Which flours you ask? Rye meal, organic bread, artisan, pumpernickel, dark rye, white spelt, whole grain spelt, whole wheat, almond, paleo, coconut, and we also have rye chops though they don’t count as flour. These pretzels turned out so good that she floated the idea of making donuts. Personally, I think this is a horrible idea as I’d likely eat some kind of majority of them before they ever cooled to much below 175 degrees each. I can’t speak with authority what makes these particular pretzels soft German ones but Caroline did boil them in water with a good amount of baking soda, so maybe that’s it? [I used a German recipe, so that would be another reason – Caroline] Extra thanks to the folks at Jacobsen Salt Company out at Netarts Bay, Oregon for the salt that dusts our pretzels.