Yellowstone with Jutta – Day 6

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Dissolved minerals in waters heated by processes deep underground flow, and when they do they have the potential to pool in places. As these calcium carbonate-rich waters deposit their chemical soup, they start forming travertine. Layer upon layer, the molecules bind to other nearby molecules of similar makeup, while at the edges of where the water pools, ridges form faster than on the bottom of the pool that has a larger surface area and before you know it (in geological terms) you are left with terraced pools of cascading water that are laying down floor tiles and countertops for people well into the future.

Here at Mammoth Hot Springs, the process of making travertine is happening right before our eyes. Things are not working like a perpetual machine of great efficiency because the heavily mineralized waters are not guaranteed to always be running. Maybe the plumbing below is broken, or winter didn’t deposit enough snow, changing the water table? Whatever the reason, it is likely the travertine pools we see on our trip will not be the ones you see on yours. The mineral deposits will still be here, but the water that is feeding them may have dried up or is flowing over another part of the mass that has been forming.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

From the steam billowing off of the hot springs, the water condenses on nearby stuff, in this case, these pine needles, and as it freezes, the water molecules can build up, forming these mini ice knives that show you which way the wind was blowing.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

I find it interesting how the colors shift across this dry travertine and am intrigued, although it is only basic chemistry, at how the particulate mixture of the hot spring waters while making delivery of its runoff drops off the molecules that will shade one section with darker hues while on an adjacent pool, the water’s darker molecules now depleted leave the water to deliver a cleaner whiter calcium just next door. It all makes me wish I’d paid more attention in class and taken some advanced chemistry classes.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

The cave has escaped its dark prison and turned the world inside out while psychedelically presenting itself to us to test if we believe what we see. Every day, we search for novelty in our own lives, try to find something new to entertain us, need to see a new movie or play a new video game, and yet here is nature offering us infinity while challenging the mind to find a vocabulary to adequately describe what we perceive. Even when presented with all the time we might need or like to analyze but a small corner of our world, we could spend a lifetime trying to accumulate the poetry of expression and scientific knowledge to remotely describe the beauty and complexity in that which we are attempting to comprehend. This then begs the question of when we encounter the nearly alienesque universe of the truly psychedelic how, if we only rarely encounter those states, can we begin to describe what they are when we can barely explain the totality of what’s occurring when an ocean wave breaks on a sandy shore?

Jutta Engelhardt at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

The old lady in the tree troll is from an old German fairy tale first noted by the Brothers Grimm almost 200 years ago. It was one of the scarier stories made all the worse as the spirit occupying the tree was left there with the passing of the cursed person’s mother-in-law.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Maybe you are getting the idea that I’ve run out of impressions to write about from our trip out here? Well, maybe I have.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

While moss tendrils growing out of lichen and bark are not something you see every day, it’s also something that, once it has been described and shown, what more could be said? I could drone on about the molecular structure or its place in the scheme of evolution, but maybe that geeky stuff gets tiring. Oh well, then here goes the nerd out about the scene pictured. The green tendrils are Wolf Lichen, a.k.a. Letharia Vulpina. The turquoise lichen are filaments of fungi that colonies of cyanobacteria, a.k.a. algae, take up residence in living symbiotically as a happy family. As for the bark that these lichens are living on, well, that’s obvious: it’s a conifer. Why is this so obvious? It’s because the Wolf Lichen grows on the bark of these trees in particular. Finally, do not try to eat this lichen as it is toxic, especially to wolves and foxes, but it is a good source of dying fabrics and yarns. Now, you probably know considerably more about lichen than when you started reading this blog entry.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

I’m not pulling a rabbit out of my hat regarding telling some interesting tidbits about these ice cycles; I just thought they looked cool, especially with that carbonated-looking water below them.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Took off down the Grand Loop Road to visit a corner of the park we’ve not been in yet, but at the Tower General Store, we reached the end of the road as it was already closed for winter. While we did get this view of the Yellowstone River, we won’t get to visit Mt. Washburn on this trip, maybe someday.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

So, instead, we drove back out to the Lamar Valley and dipped our toe into Montana. As we already have a photo of Jutta and Caroline in front of a Montana state sign, we instead snapped this one upon reentering Wyoming. We stopped along the way many times and walked out to the Lamar River and at one particular bend in the river where Soda Butte Creek and the Lamar meet, we stopped for a good long time and just watched the area as we had been told that the day before there was a wolf pack seen here with an elk that had met its end. I’m pretty sure they were not paying their respects but were instead having a snack. No luck seeing or hearing wolves on this visit to Yellowstone, but no big deal as things have been just perfect.

Abendrot is the German word for describing the red color of the sky as the sun sets. Abendrot elicits oohs and aahs from Jutta every time she spots a bit of it; that and sagenhaft which translates to fabulous or marvelous. Das Abendrot war sagenhaft, and now you’ve learned a little German, too.

Yellowstone with Jutta – Day 5

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

There’s a delight in traveling with my mother-in-law, as regardless of how fast I may want to bolt through a landscape, she’s not going to indulge me by running behind me. In any case, that would just be rude, and so I get to slow down and spend more contemplative time taking in details I may have otherwise passed by. While I will prod her to stay awake on our drives so she can see where she’s been out here, she effectively sets the pace. Something else that adds to the positive experience of bringing her on these excursions is that she shares with us the same level of enthusiasm, the enjoyment of basking in the beauty of it all, and lets us know how beguiled she is.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Jutta is just as likely to pause to inspect a leaf, a particular stone that’s caught her eye, an insect, the patterns in the ice, or the evolving shades in the morning and late-day skies. She hears birds that I’ve tuned out while I’m listening to venting gasses, and then she brings them to my attention, though I’m of little value in identifying them by their call for her.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We ventured out into the Upper Geyser Basin here in front of the Old Faithful Inn early this morning and spent about four hours meandering along the boardwalk and trails out to the Morning Glory Pool and then back again. Our bags are packed and loaded in the car. We are staying up in Mammoth Hot Springs for a couple of nights, but before we start our drive north, we need some lunch.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Heading out into Lamar Valley in the northeast corner of the park with considerably better weather than we had earlier in the year.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

If time allowed, we would park the car and walk out following the stream and then maybe cut across to the forest before seeing if there was a safe way to head up the mountainside for a view back this way. Instead, we’ll have to sate ourselves with a hundred stops along the road to jump out of the car for a closer look and stare for a longer moment than driving by at 30 mph allows. If ever there was a park in America that would benefit from having a parallel bike path next to the road, Yellowstone is it.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

While technically, Jutta has now been to Montana, it hardly counts just crossing the state line; I can already see a visit to Glacier National Park in the future.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

This is one of those curiosities that Jutta needed a photo in front of as she’d never stood on the 45th Parallel before.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We are heading out of the park for Jutta’s second visit to Montana, this time to Gardiner, where we are looking for dinner. What we found was Helen’s Corral Drive-in burger joint where we had the opportunity to try our first elk burger ever. As I said earlier, we are staying at Mammoth Hot Springs, and for the next two nights, we’ll have a small cabin to call home.

Yellowstone with Jutta – Day 4

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Go out early and beat the crowds, and you’ll have the park to yourself. There are moments one can nearly imagine what it might have been like to simply find yourself here on some random day 200 years ago before anyone would have had reason to be here. What did it mean to a tribal member of the Nez Perce to walk over the steaming earth (they are one group of several indigenous peoples we know that used to live in the area) and ponder to him or herself as to the meaning of the eternal smoke and boiling waters that were ever-present here? Why here and not north, south, east, or west of this corner of their world? How do our minds and imagination process these views when unencumbered with limits on time due to vacations coming to an end, accumulating lodging costs, or encounters with people carrying on loudly or busying themselves with electronic gear? What must it be like to set up camp in the middle of this basin and sit here for days to watch for change and never have another soul pass through?

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

This is a thermophilic community made up of heat-loving bacteria. These bacteria form strings or filaments as water brings various other bacteria, chemicals, and minerals flowing by while the nearly ever-present cyanobacteria, through photosynthesis, release oxygen that floats to the surface, thus pushing other microbes up and creating stuff that looks like mesas and forests of spikes or, in my imagination, space chicken. The colors are, in part, determined by water temperature, though environmental factors play a role, too. Sadly, if you come to Yellowstone and you don’t already possess this knowledge or have time to talk to rangers or attend ranger programs, you could pass right through and never really know or understand a fraction of what’s occurring in this national park.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Bison have a special but contentious relationship here in Wyoming. While we visitors to Yellowstone may treasure our sighting of a herd or even a single bison, the local cattle ranchers outside the borders of the National Park believe this animal is the scourge of their operation. Bison can carry a bacterium called Brucella abortus that causes brucellosis in cattle. Infected animals suffer from lower reproductive ability, which is not good if you are a cattle rancher. The sad thing is that it was cattle a hundred years ago that brought brucellosis to the wildlife here in Wyoming in the first place, and after having become nearly extinct by the late 1880s, it is here in Yellowstone that bison have been able to start to recover. Remember that the bison population was reduced from about 60 million animals across the Great Plains in 1840 to less than 100 just 40 years later.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

There’s much to learn in a national park, especially in a park that has such a rich ecosystem of biological, chemical, hydrological, and various other earth sciences that are actively at work and changing the environment rapidly. While the Grand Canyon is an amazing work of geological processes with a vast multi-billion-year history spelled out in its exposed rock layers, it isn’t changing very quickly these days; as a matter of fact, its speed of change is quite glacial. While the steam slowly rises from the hot springs here, the casual visitor might be lulled into the relaxing rhythm of the bubbling waters that seem to maintain a cadence that has always been here. The truth is that this caldera is anything but stable and is prone to rapid change, which is why it is of such interest to scientists of all disciplines from around the globe. That I should be a casual observer only taking in the superficial appearance of things feels nearly criminal. When we leave Yellowstone, all visitors should be tested for what they learned while being allowed the privilege of being present in a place of such magnitude.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Everywhere we go, and everywhere we look, there is more to greet the eye than the mind can process and so we focus on the billowing clouds of steam or the sky reflecting in the water. Then we see the brown reflective surface and the ripples of the bacterial mats in contrast to the trees on the horizon, and a larger, almost simple picture is painted. For the astute, you may recognize that this is the Midway Geyser Basin, home of the Grand Prismatic Spring.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Around the corner, a turquoise pool wants to trick us into testing the waters as shades of emerald hint at the incredible experience that could be found if only we gave into leaving the boardwalk to tread on the fragile crust of land that stands between us and what must certainly be a perfect delight. The problem arises when the reality sets in that most of the water in this area is a toasty 160 degrees (70 c) compared to a hot tub that is typically no hotter than 102 degrees (39 c) or a kitchen faucet that is set to 120 degrees (49 c). In these waters, a human will suffer third-degree burns in less than a second, and how, while you are flailing about and burning up, are you supposed to climb out of a pool with nothing to grab hold of? Heed the signs that warn visitors to stay on the boardwalks.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

By now, you might be noticing that I’m not posting a lot of photos of stuff that has been posted on the internet thousands of times before. There’s so much more to this park than famous waterfalls, Old Faithful, the Grand Prismatic Spring, and bears.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

This alien environment of impossible shapes, forms, and colors with exotic smells, sounds, and movement in all directions seduces my senses to the point I feel a kind of drunkenness of elation and profound disorientation that it is me, this normal nobody from Podunk, America, who can be here attempting to absorb the immensity of just what this is. To say I’m overwhelmed is the proverbial understatement. In just this photo we see moving water, possibly gas emerging from below, bacterial growth, algae, steam, and reflected light, while unseen are the rest of the microbes and geological processes that are just below the surface and invisible to our naked eye.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

There is a serious amount of work being performed in this soup of cyanobacteria, aka blue-green algae. Just look at all that oxygen they are delivering to us!

Caroline Wise at Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

And then there was this and I can attest to the fact that she does indeed have a seriously soft shoulder.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

As far as the elk’s shoulder softness is concerned, I can’t offer any empirical data or even observational data as you’d have to be mad to approach one of these 500-pound (225 kg) animals that could put a serious hurt on you.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

As the day rolls on, we have no want for better conditions. Life is perfect.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

An aggressive boiling cauldron of turbid water howls in a ferocity that lets man and beast know to avoid this snarl of nature.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

Meandering down the western shore of Yellowstone Lake in the direction of West Thumb, the unfolding view continues to inspire and set us in awe. Can we be this lucky?

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

No herds of bison today, only a couple of loners hanging out.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

A porcupine scurrying about wasn’t moving so fast that we couldn’t take a few photos of this guy or girl. We’d briefly seen another porcupine down in the Tetons, but it had quickly disappeared into a storm drain. From that sighting, Caroline was able to pick up a few quills while there were none to be found from this encounter. Twenty minutes after seeing this porcupine, we spotted another grizzly bear walking through some grasses with its back to us, but a dark brown clump in tall tan grasses didn’t make for a very interesting photo.

Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming

We are about to turn back up towards Old Faithful Inn for a second night at the lodge as we are finally approaching West Thumb. On our way, we notice a strange glow low on the northern horizon (this photo is looking east prior to what I’m describing), and while it’s a bit peculiar, we figure it’s just some city north of the park, and we’re seeing city lights. The next morning, while exploring the Old Faithful Basin someone asks if we’d seen the Northern Lights last night. We had to admit that we had not, but we’d seen this strange glow; he informed us that was a clue they were going to happen. Drats, because none of us have ever seen the Northern Lights with our own eyes. Maybe tomorrow night.