America – Day 6

Lillian Marynowski and John Wise Sr. of Buffalo, New York

Arrived at my aunt Lillian’s late last night. This photo is of her and my father, John M. Wise Sr. Yep, I’m a junior, and it’s the first time I’ve seen this picture of the two siblings. Growing up in Buffalo until I moved to California to live with my father, my aunt Lillian and her husband Joe Marynowski were two of my favorites as they always seemed to be laughing or making my sister and I laugh with them. After my mother, Karen Kurchoff, abandoned us at school one morning when we were about 4 and 5, it was the paternal side of my family that cared for us so we could avoid foster care. I tended to understand the situation back then in 1968, with my mom being a mere 19 years old after getting pregnant back in 1962 at the age of 14 with me, but still, I was sent off to live with a man who had his own set of issues. Looking at this photo, I see the potential still beaming in a smile that might have let this boy grow up and enjoy life, but instead, he was likely witnessing behaviors that shaped the way he would deal with his wives and his children into something far less than stellar.

Lillian Marynowski and her grandchildren Jacob and Jonathan Marynowski in Buffalo, New York

My aunt Lillian Marynowski, formerly Wise, and her grandchildren Jacob and Johnathan Marynowski. More than thirty years ago I spent many a day and night in this house as it was the home of John Alexander Wise and Amelia Wise née Knezetic, my paternal grandparents. I have fond memories of being here and can hardly believe that all these years later, I’m peeking in the refrigerator (looking for tapioca my grandma used to make me) and visiting the basement where she scrubbed my grandfather’s collars on a washboard by hand. Where the lamp and picture of Jesus are, there used to be a cabinet, and in the bottom drawer were the games that my grandfather had given me: Lincoln Logs and an Erector Set. I can still remember sitting in the living room (just behind my aunt Lillian) and watching Frankenstein for the first time and falling in love with horror movies, though I also can’t forget burying my face in a pillow for much of the film as it was too scary. Visiting after so many years away brings with it a wave of emotions and memories that in some way were buried and maybe are better left in the past, but here I am in the face of nostalgia for good or bad.

Delta Road and Charlotte Street in Tonawanda Buffalo, NY

The intersection of Delta Road and Charlotte Street in Tonawanda Buffalo, New York. I’ve played on these streets for several years and would walk around the corner to Alberta Drive to visit with my aunt and uncle Annie and Woody Burns and a house or two down Mike and Penny Knezetic and their three children. While Mike and Penny stayed in their house for the rest of their lives, as did my grandparents, Annie and Woody, moved to Goleta, California, which was in part why my father moved to California too. Years later, Annie and Woody would move back to Buffalo just across the street from my cousin Brian Marynowski, who at the time was caring for his mom, my aunt Lillian, in what had been my grandparents’ home.

Caroline Wise stepping into Canada for the first time ever

Caroline Wise is stepping into Canada for the first time. We are on our way to Niagara Falls.

Niagara Falls Panorama from Canadian side

Our first grand view of Niagara Falls is seen from Canada, which happens to have the better views. We’d planned on taking a Maid of the Mist tour out on the water to the foot of the falls, but it had closed for the season only a few days before our arrival.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Journey Behind the Falls at Niagara Falls, Canada

One hundred twenty-five feet below the surface, a 130-year-old tunnel system offers visitors a viewing and listening experience of Niagara Falls that shouldn’t be missed.

Journey Behind the Falls viewing platform in Canada

A viewing platform adjacent to the tunnel we were just in offers this incredible view and puts the Falls into a wholly new perspective. While we missed the Maid of the Mist this trip, we’ll come back someday and certainly make the journey to see the Falls from that perspective. The biggest joy for Caroline while here was seeing the incredible number of rainbows that shone brightly in the sun under clear blue skies.

Historic Fort Niagara on Lake Ontario in Youngstown, New York

Welcome to Fort Niagara on Lake Ontario in Youngstown, New York. We cannot believe our luck that the sun is shining, the sky is blue, and it’s a warm 50-degree fall day.

Fort Niagara on Lake Ontario in Youngstown, New York

From the Old Fort Niagara website:

The three flags flown daily above the parade ground symbolize the nations that have held Fort Niagara. Each competed for the support of a fourth nation: the powerful Iroquois Confederacy. The French established the first post here, Fort Conti, in 1679. Its successor, Fort Denonville (1687-88), was equally short-lived. In 1726, France finally erected a permanent fortification with the construction of the impressive “French Castle.” Britain gained control of Fort Niagara in 1759, during the French & Indian War, after a nineteen-day siege. The British held the post throughout the American Revolution but were forced, by treaty, to yield it to the United States in 1796. Fort Niagara was recaptured by the British in 1813. It was ceded to the United States a second time in 1815 at the end of the War of 1812.

Looking out of a cell at Fort Niagara in Youngstown, New York

In all my years of taking photos, this has remained a favorite due to how much it conveys, how much it obscures, and the hints of color that come through.

Back in Buffalo, we spent the late afternoon and evening with Aunt Lillian, who indulged us with visits to two of my childhood favorites: Bocce Club Pizza for dinner and Anderson’s Custard for dessert. There are a few things Buffalo does well, pizza, custard, candy, and Buffalo wings are certainly out front. Brian and his wife Lynn came over and stayed a bit before leaving the kids with Grandma, with whom we talked late into the night. It’s a mixed bag, this going-home stuff.

America – Day 5

Hopewell Culture National Historical Park in Chillicothe, Ohio

We are 2,361 miles from home, and it’s 34 degrees out this morning with ice on our windows. Our first stop is at the Hopewell Cultural Historic Park which features 23 mounds built almost 2,000 years ago right here in what would become Chillicothe, Ohio. The Hopewell people thrived in this area from about 200 BC to AD 500. In the desert, it’s a rare day that we see fog, but this morning, there’s a thin layer over the mounds and a bit more drifting over the nearby Scioto River.

Fog out over the farm near the Scioto river in Ohio

These are the kind of views we live for, well, these and a million others. We’re not far from Laurelville, where we met and talked briefly with a guy who collects hornet nests as a hobby. We’d never seen one before and found them quite interesting, but why someone would collect them, we didn’t know. He also makes apple cider, which is why stopped in the first place. Along the way, we dipped in at Hocking Hills State Park for a pit stop, unaware of what amazing spectacles were hidden in the park. Someday, we must return to Hocking Hills State Park: MUST!

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Nelsonville Brick Plant in Nelsonville, Ohio

Caroline and I agree this is one of the worst photos we’ve ever taken of ourselves, but it’s the only one we have with the kiln while visiting the Nelsonville Brick Plant. This place was built back in 1877 and closed in 1940.

Downtown Nelsonville, Ohio

I feel like we’ve landed on the real Main Street America, seeing downtown Nelsonville.

Waterfalls on the Muskingum river in McConnelsville, Ohio

This is part of the McConnelsville, Ohio, lock and dam project on the Muskingum River. Back in another age, this place was plied by steamboats. Out on the water, away from the falls, fishermen in small boats can be seen enjoying the day, hopefully as much as we are.

Roadside somewhere in Ohio

This photo was taken somewhere along State Route 60. We are traveling roughly south-easterly toward Marietta, Ohio.

A barn with "Mail Pouch Tobacco" emblazoned on it just north of Marietta, Ohio on State Route 60

This was our first encounter with the “Mail Pouch Tobacco” brand. Turns out that this or a slight variation is emblazoned on barns throughout the area. This one was just north of Marietta, Ohio, as seen from State Route 60.

Caroline Wise in the wheelhouse of a steamboat in Marietta, Ohio

Notice the strict pose from the German after reading the sign, “DO NOT TOUCH ANY CONTROLS PLEASE.” Caroline was not going to be accused of violating international law and being a bad steward of travelers’ diplomacy by acting out of line. This was taken while we were visiting an old steamboat at the Ohio River Museum in Marietta, Ohio.

Fish in the Muskingame river in Marietta, Ohio

As an added attraction, you get to feed carp with bread next to the boat. They get downright greedy! Right after I took this photo, the fish asked, “Why you take my photo, human?”

Knowlton Covered Bridge in Monroe County, Ohio

We took quite a bit of quality time to explore this little corner where the Knowlton Covered Bridge still stands. It was built back in 1887, is 192 feet long, and is only open to pedestrians.

Welcome to West Virginia state sign over the highway

Another one of these locations where we won’t be stopping for a selfie in front of the “Welcome To Our State” signs. This sign even has its own cool bridge, so we get over the disappointment quickly as we drive under this big green arch. For the sake of knowing precisely where we are at this juncture, we crossed the bridge on State Route 2 between Dilles Bottom, Ohio, and Moundsville, West Virginia. On the radio, we are listening to some bluegrass from the Jolly Brothers.

Entering Pennsylvania

More welcoming from the front seat of our speeding car. All state borders should have a pullout for selfies. Vote for it. Welcome to Pennsylvania.

Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania at dusk

Pittsburgh at dusk as we are heading for parts north of here.

Selfie of Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the Welcome to New York state sign

Five days to make it to New York. It must be due to my being born here that I was drawn to get here sooner rather than later.

Dunkirk, New York

Before we got our first look at Lake Erie here in Dunkirk, New York, we stopped in Ripley for dinner at the Plummer’s Tavern. We tried the lemon fish with coleslaw and would return if we were to travel up this way again.

The giant doll in front of Valvo's Candies in Silver Creek, New York

Not exactly the kind of thing you might want to see when you’ve been out on the road for the better part of 16 hours, but there she stood, “The killer doll girl from the 50s – Dolly Dimples.” Not to besmirch this almost famous roadside attraction, but it did make us ask, WTF is this? Turns out she’s connected to Valvo’s Candies in Silver Creek, New York, and yes, her name really is Dolly Dimples. The next stop is Buffalo, New York – my birthplace.

America – Day 4

Lincoln Boyhood National Monument in Lincoln City, Indiana

On a late fall day, this was how we saw the Lincoln Boyhood National Memorial in Indiana. During our visit, we were the only visitors milling about the cabin, strange for it being a Saturday, though it is still early in the day. There were a couple of chickens wandering about, a couple of cardinals, a blue jay, a woodpecker, and more squirrels than we could shake a stick at. Ranger Zimmermann gave a great talk about the history of the area and Lincoln’s time here.

Caroline Wise and John Wise visiting Santa Claus in Indiana

I just had to stop for this selfie in front of the Santa Claus, Indiana, sign to commemorate the day I peed in Santa Claus. Yep, that’s exactly what I did which is why Caroline has this smirk of disbelief that I would be that juvenile. In my defense, I can only say that being a man, I’m inclined to acts of stupidity that are beyond my control or better sense. Does anyone know if there’s a city in America called Batman?

Caroline Wise and John Wise in front of the Welcome to Indiana state sign

We don’t always get photos where we’d like to due to the time of day, being on a road that isn’t conducive to pulling over, or the sign is missing. So was the case last night as we passed from Missouri into Indiana and couldn’t find the sign in the dark, so here we are, leaving Indiana for Kentucky or maybe Indiana.

Roadside barn in Kentucky

We’ve been zigzagging across the Ohio River, crossing from Cannelton, Indiana, to Hawesville, Kentucky. Somehow, we got to the other side and found this old barn or farmhouse just outside Rome, Indiana. In Derby, while still in Indiana, we stopped to gaze once again upon the Ohio River and then continued to Leavenworth in Indiana as opposed to the one in Kansas. While in Leavenworth, we stopped at a roadside orchard stand and bought some apples, peanuts, and sorghum.

Horseshoe overlook in Leavenworth, Indiana

While in Leavenworth we also visited this horseshoe overlook of the Ohio River with Kentucky just across the way.

Old decrepit bridge over the Blue river in Indiana

This old decrepit bridge just barely stands over the Blue River off the Ohio River Scenic Byway.

Kentucky state sign from the freeway entering Louisville, Kentucky

Trying to avoid main roads and freeways doesn’t always work out, and this once again demonstrates the occasional difficulty in obtaining selfies in front of state signs. After our slow, meandering drive along the Ohio River, it was time to make tracks if we were going to make our destination located further north. Okay, we had no real idea of where we were going, but we weren’t ready to quit, so we just kept driving. I wanted to stop for a photo of me in front of Big Bone Lick State Park just west of the town called Beaverlick, but I wasn’t willing to make the detour; now I wish I had.

Millie's Place in Cincinnati, Ohio

I’d like to tell you that we are suckers for soul food, but the truth is we are foodies and want to try everything. A pit stop at a Starbucks brought us into conversation with a young lady who recommended Millie’s Place here in Cincinnati, Ohio. We left this joint smacking our lips, uttering yum, yum, yum. On leaving Cincinnati, we took Highway 50, which passes through the Mariemont neighborhood; we took note that this is an upscale section of town should we ever need to visit again. Down the 50, we pass through Bainbridge, which is home to the first dental school in America, and of course, the museum would be closed as we were in town. The next stop is the Chillicothe Inn over in Chillicothe, Ohio. Wow, we were booked into room 23 here on Highway 23.