America – Day 9

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Frenchman Bay in Acadia National Park, Maine

We live for being next to the water. Everything feels perfect when we are at the coast including here at Frenchman Bay in Acadia National Park.

Panorama of Frenchman Bay in Acadia National Park, Maine

Our old Sony camera only shot 1600×1200 pixels during this trip, but the magic of Photoshop stitching images together let us resolve things just a wee bit better. Here’s Frenchman Bay from side to side. Click the image or click here to load a larger view to see more detail.

Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

Hours could pass, and as long as the weather stays dry, we’d be happy as clams to just walk along the shore all day.

Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

The distinctive look between the northwest Pacific coast and here is striking. After Oregon, Maine might be the next choice of where we’d love to live. The only problem with living out this way might be the roads, though the area around Bar Harbor is fairly maintained. Maybe someday we can spend some months up here and get a better idea of what things are like in winter and summer.

Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

There’s certainly a lot more here than just the sea, but it takes some serious effort to avert our eyes from that body of water that seems to be calling us.

Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

I have no idea what this is, but it looks yummy, though I’ll bet a dollar it doesn’t taste as good as it looks.

Cadillac Mountain in Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

The strong wind makes the peak of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park brutally cold. We are only at 1,533 feet above sea level, which is called a hill out west, but out here on the east coast, this is a mountain and it’s the highest point on the U.S. Atlantic coast. While the thermometer reads 42 degrees, I’d bet that with the wind chill factor, it’s not a degree over 10. Quick, let’s jump back in the car!

Cadillac Mountain in Mushroom in Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, Maine

A panoramic view from near the peak of Cadillac Mountain. Click here or the image to see a larger view.

Near Bar Harbor, Maine

Finally, it was time for breakfast, so we headed back to Bar Harbor for something to eat at Rika’s Family Restaurant. Our server tells us how Bar Harbor becomes a ghost town this time of year, and during the summer, it’s difficult to move down the street because the crowds are so thick. This feast or famine situation makes things difficult for those who can’t winter down in Florida or over in Arizona, where most of the town is already. Afterward, we stroll down the street searching for the refrigerator magnet we must find. We found a magnet but also a ceramic tile of the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse so now we’ll have to head that way and witness it for ourselves.

On the way to Southwest Harbor by Tremont, Maine

With the sun out and blue skies, the Atlantic Ocean shimmers in beauty. We are on the way to Southwest Harbor out towards Tremont, where the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse is situated.

On the way to Southwest Harbor by Tremont, Maine

Moving slowly along the coast as we find places to stop and explore the shore. I should point out that these rocks can be slippery: my butt found out the hard way as I went down flat on them.

Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse on the Maine coast

This was the best view we could muster of the lighthouse. It was built back in 1858 and is located in Tremont, Maine.

Caroline Wise and John Wise with a snail we named "State of Maine" that we got as our reminder at the Purple Baboon in Belfast, Maine

So this was the souvenir we ended up with from Purple Baboon over in Belfast. We named this snail “State of Maine.” You might also notice we are traveling with a Kodama hanging in the window just behind Caroline. The Kodama are spirits from Japanese folklore that inhabit trees, similar to the dryads from Greek mythology, with the name dryads being the basis for the plant dryas, which will figure in a couple of our trips in the future after we go to Alaska and the Yukon, but that’s 12 years from now so I’ll wait to write about that stuff then. This particular Kodama was featured in the film Princess Mononoke.

Around this time, we also returned to Belfast for some lunch at the Maine Chowder & Steak House and then pointed the car towards Camden, where we made note that we would have to visit this small village on a subsequent trip.

Witch Dungeon Museum in Salem, Massachusetts

Before reaching Salem, Massachusetts, and the closed-for-the-day Witch Dungeon Museum, a guy at a gas station in Maine recommended that we visit both Annapolis and Mystic Seaport. From Salem, we drive into Lynn (established in 1629) and believe we are in the land of hairdressers, doughnut shops, roast beef dives, pizza joints, and Chinese restaurants. It should also be known as the place of the world’s smallest street signs.

Sumner Tunnel in Boston, Massachusetts

Boston is a madhouse of traffic anarchy, and this tunnel is no better. Only $2 to pass through Sumner Tunnel with our nerves already frayed, and then here comes an emergency vehicle forcing all of us to merge right in a tunnel that was already bumper to bumper. We looked for the area of the Boston Tea Party so we could see it in the dark while it was closed too, but we never found it.

Boston skyline at night in Massachusetts

Leaving Boston behind, we head for a quieter destination to stop for the night; Plymouth sounds interesting, so we’ll invest the hour and drive south. Once in Plymouth (yep, that one made famous by a rock), we stopped at Plymouth House of Pizza for dinner and then checked into the Pilgrim Sands Motel with an ocean view!

America – Day 8

About to cross from New York to Vermont

We are up early and ready to go by 6:00 a.m. We are also nearly as far north as we can go without heading into Canada, with Montreal a mere 45 miles away. This is Highway 2, and that bridge just in front of us crosses Lake Champlain and drops us into Vermont.

Hero's Welcome General Store in North Hero, Vermont

Route 2, down through a bunch of islands in Lake Champlain, had hints of being scenic, and so that was the road we traveled. In North Hero, we spotted the Hero’s Welcome General Store; not only was it aesthetically attractive they were serving breakfast: double win.

Joe's Pond, Vermont

Not only is this Joe’s Pond, but it’s in Joe’s Pond, Vermont!

Footbridge over Joe's Brook in West Danville, Vermont

A rare covered footbridge over Joe’s Brook in West Danville, Vermont. It might not be that rare, but it is the first of its kind we’ve ever seen.  This specimen was built in the vintage year of 1977, so while it may not be an antique it will forever be special to us as having the significance of being our first.

Caroline Wise and John Wise visiting Maple Grove Farms of Vermont in Saint Johnsbury

Fortunately, we were traveling with our hair nets for just such a situation, which was lucky in that it allowed us to visit the factory floor at Maple Grove Farms and Museum. Caroline has, on occasion, tried convincing me that I look better in just such a hat, but unless she can find me the exact same kind with an already integrated beard net (not a secondary device), I’m not going for it. The tour through this operation was AMAZING.

Maple Grove Farms factory tour in Saint Johnsbury, Vermont

Caroline probably dreams about this sign as it is an all-time favorite that she’ll reference for years into the future. If it wasn’t for her, I’d probably never have known about the “jazz hands” meme.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Welcome to New Hampshire state sign

Today, we are seeing all the states. Lunch was in Gorham, New Hampshire, as we had to do something on our drive across the state. We stopped at Saladino’s Italian Market for some spaghetti and got back on the road. Driving is about all we’ll do today, as Maine is calling. Crap, so is a VW dealer, as we just noticed one of our headlights is out.

Pond in Shelburne, New Hampshire

Blue skies have arrived, and we are greeting it with smiles. I’ve probably said it a hundred other times, but it seems like every day we’ve ever traveled, we see at least some blue sky. This idyllic pond scene comes to you courtesy of Shelburne, New Hampshire, on Highway 2, about five miles from Maine.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the Welcome to Maine state sign

And in just seconds, we went from New Hampshire to Maine. About 10 miles down the road, we pulled into Bethel, Maine, to find a pay phone and call VW roadside assistance; they told us to visit Augusta, Maine, and that we should make tracks before they closed. So we changed our plans and headed to Augusta. Okay, we don’t have any other plan than to get to the ocean so we can brag to everyone that we’ve seen America coast-to-coast; well, a tiny sliver of it.

Roadside pond somewhere in Maine

After a couple of hours of driving in Maine, we are certain this is the state with the absolutely WORST roads outside of Afghanistan. We arrived in Augusta shortly after 4:00 in the afternoon and, not even 20 minutes later, were back on the road.  An hour later, we were at the coast and ready to shop. In Belfast, we ran into the Purple Baboon, intent on leaving with the greatest souvenir we would collect on this trip because this was the place to do that; the Purple Baboon demanded it. There’s a literary reference here to William S. Burroughs, one of my favorite authors, that is triggering this fervor. Read Naked Lunch if you are interested. Dinner was at the Weathervane Seafood Restaurant, and while Caroline is a vegetarian, she couldn’t resist having shrimp, some amazing clam chowder, swordfish, and some fried smelts & haddock. Note: the Weathervane is now gone, and Nautilus Seafood & Grill is at the location.

Somewhere between Belfast and Trenton, Maine at night

Looking back at Belfast, Maine, after dinner on our way to Trenton, Maine. The first motel we spotted was the Acadia Sunrise Motel, with advertised rates of just $31 a night. We took it and it actually was just $31. We have no shame when it comes to saving money so we can go further and do more. Note: 18 years later, they list rooms starting at $59 a night 🙂

Update: Five years after that last update here in 2023, the rooms at the Acadia Sunrise Motel now start at $109 per night. How’s that for inflation?

America – Day 7

The Knezetic family in approximately 1928 Buffalo, New York

This is the Knezetic family circa 1928. Robert Knezetic and Louisa Priezula were born in Croatia. Louisa went by the name Luba while in Croatia but adopted Lillian after immigrating to the United States through Ellis Island in 1905. Robert was an adopted name, too; he was born Blasius, or Blaz for short. Robert was born in Ozalj, Karlovac, Croatia, on February 1st, 1886. Lillian was born on March 10, 1888; she, too, was from Ozalj. In the back row of this photo is my paternal grandmother Amelia on the left; she was born on October 18, 1918. Next up are John (born Dec 24, 1913), Bob (born Robert on Oct 27, 1912), George (born May 15, 1916), and Frank (born May 29, 1921). Between Robert and Lillian sit Anna and Mike (born Sep 3, 1924).

John Alexander Wise and Amelia Knezetic getting married in Buffalo, New York

This is John Alexander Wise and Amelia Knezetic on their wedding day, they are my paternal grandparents. John Wise was born on December 10, 1918, in Berford, Ontario, Canada. His mom’s name was Hattie, born in 1898, and her husband was Cornelius, born about October 11, 1892, in Blenheim, Oxford County, Canada – my great-grandmother and grandfather. Hattie was also known as Hally. Her mom was Ellen Denby (also known as Alice). Born in 1871, she married John Farrell on September 12, 1887, in Brant, Ontario, Canada.

My great-great-grandfather was Alexander Wise, born June 8, 1837; he was married to my great-great-grandmother Margaret Irving, born April 27, 1859. This side of the family came out of the Ontario, Canada, area. Alexander was known to be of Germanic descent.

Ellen’s father was Richard (Morris) Denby, born June 5, 1837, in England – this would be my great-great-great-grandfather. Richard was married to Sarah (last name possibly Morris, there is confusion in the records); she was born March 22, 1840, in England. These two immigrated to Canada in 1868.

John Farrell’s father was Robert (McLeod) Farrell born in 1844 in Berford, Canada. John was of Irish descent; he married Lydia McLeod (this could be the maiden name; again, the records are not clear).

Lillian Marynowski formerly Wise of Buffalo, New York

Lillian Wise during her senior year in high school. Lillian was named after her grandmother and would share her nickname of Luba, too. Lillian was the older of John and Amelia’s two children.

John Michael Wise Sr. during his senior year of high school in Buffalo, New York

This is my father, John Michael Wise, Sr., born in Buffalo, New York, on March 16, 1945. He inherited an angry temperament, though those who would never know that side of him found him a charming and engaging man. His time on our planet was short, and by the time he was 44 years old in 1989, he was starting to suffer the effects of a hard life. Smoking, factory work, poor diet, and a lot of stress led him to his first heart attack. From that point forward, he would have at least one more heart attack and start to deny the health impacts of being diagnosed with diabetes. Through continued neglect, he ultimately saw his lower extremities removed, and then on February 2, 2003, the same day the space shuttle Columbia blew up, my father exited this world. From my dad, I likely inherited his love of reading, music, and dealing poorly with anger.

Penny and Mike Knezetic on their wedding day in Buffalo, New York

This is Flora “Penny” and Mike Knezetic on their wedding day. They lived their entire lives on Alberta Drive in Buffalo, New York, behind Mike’s older sister, Amelia, and next door for several years to his younger sister, Anna.

Anna Knezetic and Woodrow Burns in Buffalo, New York

Dressed up for someone else’s wedding, these are Anna Knezetic (born in 1926) and Woodrow Burns. However, by this time, I believe they were already married, so this is Mr. and Mrs. Burns to be proper.

Robert and Lillian (Luba) Knezetic in Buffalo, New York

Robert (Blaz) and Lillian (Luba) Knezetic in their last photograph taken together. Robert passed away in 1962, and Lillian the year after.

Hattie Brooks, Lillian Wise, Joe Marynowski, and Lillian (Luba) Knezetic at Lillian and Joe's wedding in Buffalo, New York

On the left is Hattie Brooks (maiden name may have been Denby) with Lillian Wise and Joe Marynowski, who are getting married, and my great grandmother Lillian (Luba) Knezetic on the right, who was a widow by this time. This is the only known photo of Hattie and the last photo taken of Luba.

Family get together in Buffalo, New York

I’d guess that this photo was taken around 1966. In the very front, lying down, is my grandfather John Wise. Sitting on him is one of my cousins with her sister just behind her on her right: this should be Judy and Nancy. Their mom is Jean, who was married to Frank Knezetic (not pictured); she’s the woman seated to the left behind the small dog. Next is Mildred Knezetic married to one of the boys, an unidentified woman, and Bob Knezetic. In the far back row is an unidentified man, Lillian, and Joe Marynowski, I believe that is Anna, followed by Mike and John. Standing in front of Mike should be his son Mike Jr, and the two girls to the far left are most likely Linda and Donna, who are also children of Mike and Penny.

Mike Knezetic and John Wise in Buffalo, New York

Uncle Mike is still living in the same house he’d lived in since getting married. He would pass away five years after this photo was taken, two years after his wife Penny passed.

Engine House No. 26 in Buffalo, New York

Engine House Number 26 in Buffalo bears the family name Kurchhoff on a plaque to the left of the big red door. The name Kurchoff (current spelling) was also found on Millard Fillmore Hospital before it was torn down and several other buildings around the Buffalo area. My family, on the maternal side, was involved with construction and design during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

44 Fuller St in Buffalo, New York

This is 44 Fuller Street in Buffalo, New York, within walking distance of the Niagara River. It is also the former home of Robert and Lillian Knezetic. We also visited 21 Manchester Place which was the first home of John and Amelia before moving to Delta Road. We also drove by the All Saints Church and School on 127 Chadduck Avenue, where my aunt Lillian fetched my sister and me after my mother abandoned us.

Ted's Hot Dogs are a Buffalo, New York institution

Lunch was at Ted’s Hot Dogs, and while we are so lucky to have the only Ted’s outside of Buffalo in Arizona, there’s nothing like going to one of the originals. Afterward, we went back to Anderson’s Custard for one last taste.

Lillian Marynowski, Caroline Wise, and John Wise in front of 109 Delta Rd in Buffalo, New York

After a short day and a half, we are already taking leave of Buffalo. While I’m delighted to be back here at 109 Delta Road, I’m also conflicted by my history and family dynamics that have left me awkward in these kinds of social situations. I may wish for the kind of family relationships I so often see among others, but sadly, it was never meant to be in my cards. Time to go.

Somewhere near Cold Brook, New York

We headed out of Buffalo in the direction of Albany. We left the I-90 to catch Highway 8 north towards the Adirondack Mountains. Stopped to take this photo near the village of Poland, New York.

Near Cold Brook, New York

Sunset out near Cold Brook, New York

An old church near the Adirondacks in New York

It gets dark early this far north in the fall. From here, we still had more than a few hours of driving before we decided it was time to stop.

Piseco Lake in New York

We believe this is Piseco Lake, but we’re not sure; what we are sure of is that when I shot this image in the fading light, we hadn’t seen the six crosses over at the lakeshore just left of center. Our trip ends tonight in Rouses Point, New York, at the Anchorage Motel on Lake Champlain, just across from Vermont. Guess where we are going in the morning?

I should point out one more thing: today, America went to the voting machines trying to decide who would replace Bill Clinton. Will it be Al Gore or George W. Bush?