Detour to Oregon

Caroline Wise and John Wise flying to Eugene, Oregon

We’re on the plane; it is a full flight, and priority boarding is our friend. While TSA pre-check works wonders for me, Caroline dealt with the slow-motion line, taking her 20 minutes to get through security compared to my 30 seconds. Guess what we’ll be applying for in December.

In little more than 2.5 hours, we’ll be touching down in Eugene, Oregon, and until then, I’ll either be here with my pen falling on paper or I’ll crack open Bruno Latour’s After Lockdown – A Metamorphosis, his last book before passing away earlier this year.

Not sure about this book as it’s not a happy, fun read, not that one should expect that with Latour, but this claustrophobic realization that no matter where we go, we are always within. There is no way to externalize ourselves, and so in that respect, we are like a termite in its mound or Gregor Sansa becoming an insect in Kafka’s Metamorphosis.

Intuitively, I’ve always known this (or I should have), but when I go somewhere, as we are doing this evening, I’m hoping that being outside of my routine, I’ll discover something out there that will unlock some intrinsic value waiting to be uncovered within me. When I read, I wish that the words conceived outside of myself will bring me illumination through insights gleaned by others, but if the text read by me has no ability to find context, I may as well have looked at characters I cannot decipher, like the termite. I must look at the universe around me and try to make sense of what I’m capable of comprehending. A termite thrust into the sea cannot survive in a world that is too alien. Likewise, I cannot be thrust into someone else’s paradigm if I have nothing tethering me to their reality.

Flying to Eugene, Oregon

Good thing I only have 111 pages to go with a mere hour to continue reading. Meanwhile, Caroline is knitting while listening to an ebook, certainly a lot more meditative and probably a lot less demanding. Should Latour grow too heavy, I also brought along After Finitude – An Essay on the Necessity of Contingency by Quentin Meillassoux. Only now am I recognizing that both titles are dealing with something that “comes after.” Then, I think this may have been subconsciously deliberate as I prepare for where my life goes after I turn 60 next year.

I’m experiencing one of those horrible moments in life when one realizes the vast ignorance they inhabit and how long it has taken to see what should have been obvious. Latour is describing how Gregor (from Kafka’s Metamorphosis) sees his family as being the other, their own kinds of insects who make horrible sounds in their respective dwellings. Gregor is becoming normalized to the reality of being an insect; his world makes sense, but the giant two-legged things are grotesque when it comes down to it. Well, this is how I often see the average person in my own life. As my fellow humans fail to explore curiosity, I see them devolving into absurd caricatures of what it means to be human.

A termite mound without termites is a hill of mud; termites define the mound. Humans make up earthly reality; without us, this is a sphere of water, dirt, and various plants and animals. We define the concept of people, cities, and culture, which means we also define haves and have-nots, addicts, and the rich and famous.

Only two hours into the flight, but it felt like we were flying to Europe. This is until the engines slow, and we feel the beginning of our descent. I’ve made it to page 27 with Latour and am at peace as I’m not bludgeoning myself at the moment. I hope to keep reading this over the next few days, as I can always appreciate a book that exposes my shortsighted stupidity.

Signature Inn in Eugene, Oregon

We have arrived in Eugene and simultaneously inside Kafka’s Metamorphosis. At least that’s the view in the local Super Walmart at 10:00 p.m. This store is more a homeless shelter than a place to pick up the things we need for the next days. To characterize these unfortunate misfits as having emerged from a zombie apocalypse doesn’t feel too far-fetched or hostile as the tragedy that has befallen them leaves little other descriptive terms. They are Gregors becoming cockroaches. We get what we need, while the two kids in the store on a Thursday night didn’t score any cash after begging from us, and quickly, we just want to move to the exit. Not that the exit was any better, as with rain falling, the roof is an escape from the elements for the homeless population congregating here. Now we just have to hope that our car hasn’t been broken into.

After finding everything intact, we head for the motel without a lot of hope as our first impression of Eugene post-Covid is sobering. The Signature Inn checks all the boxes; it is awesome, really. Our room is clean, really clean; there are free snacks, water, and juice next to the TV we won’t use, and the bathroom is well equipped. We can be happy about this situation at the Signature Inn as this is where we’ll be staying for the last night at the end of our vacation.

Leaving That Place

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

The impressions of a place have a lot to compete with as we grow older should we have collected a lot of memories that we wish to hold on to. The obvious fix to that dilemma is to grab permanent reference points along the way that allow you to return when physically doing so is not possible. So, in leaving a place, we take out a kind of insurance guaranteeing at least some access to memories that will likely fade with the passage of time.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

The door to the right leads to the room Caroline and I have stayed in before, and it’s also where we are staying on this visit. It is the Library Room and if you are interested in seeing it, you can visit this breadcrumb from January 2020 I left on my blog so we revisit it from time to time. This works out great because maybe I failed to capture an image I’m satisfied with on this visit to the Simpson Hotel here in Duncan, Arizona.

As per the routine that seems impossible to break free of, we are up with the sun and out the front door before anyone else has begun to move, including the cats.

Duncan, Arizona

Yesterday, we went north; today, our walk turned south out of the hotel door. Maybe because it’s Sunday, it feels quieter than on other days, though this could just be a layer of my desire to create a more romanticized moment. Walking away from the Gila River, our path took us past some of Duncan’s churches on Main Street. We’re not looking to attend services, our goal is to continue our aimless wander through life.

This meander into the unknown might have lasted 5 minutes before a sign caught Caroline’s attention; it told of a nearby jetplane. Up the hill with million-dollar views occupied by the poorest residents of Duncan, we aim to go see that airplane monument that, I already know from a previous visit sans Caroline, is sitting on the ground decaying.

Duncan, Arizona

Like the old Air Force fighter jet in the background, the park is run down, and the community pool between this swingset and the plane is dry and as neglected as everything else up this hill. While you can’t see it from here, the fighter is on blocks with its wings tossed to the side; somehow, this all feels appropriate for the neighborhood.

Duncan, Arizona

Having grown tired of the dogs barking viciously at us as we tried exploring the area, we were quickly back on Main Street, seeing the churches from the other side. Typically, this shouldn’t matter as it’s not like we were looking from the perspective of hell, but it was what was on the backside of the sign of the First Baptist Church of Duncan that perked up our senses. As it may be difficult to make out in my photo, it reads, “Discerning of Spirits, Speaking in Tongues, Interpretation of Tongues.” All of a sudden, the idea of attending service feels intriguing, though we’d both be reluctant to step in as we’d be certain that the parishioners would see right through us, identifying the interlopers as the Satanic tourists we are.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

It’s rare that I feature photos of food on these pages as they never really capture the charm or essence of what they represent to us; the exception is often in the form of donuts or ice cream. Breakfast from Chef Clayton was an exquisite concoction of eggs in the form of quiche, three small gluten-free corn-like griddle cakes, five radicchio petals with one wonderfully savory Kalamata olive, a small bowl of fresh fruit, and hot coffee. Breakfast here at the Simpson is consistently a standout affair that deserves commemoration. Time to leave this place.

New Mexico State Line near Duncan, Arizona

Hello, new place down the road, we are here. This is not new, like new as in the first time here, but new as in new to us today. But it’s not the same as before; things are different. An abandoned, decrepit old house that I documented here and here during different visits now has a fence around it with a No Trespassing sign posted. The adjacent fifth-wheel mobile home is now gone; for that matter, it seems like more of the Welcome to New Mexico sign is on its way out, too.

Cotton growing in Virden, New Mexico

Still sitting in the field awaiting harvesting are sporadic patches of cotton. In between this sentence and the previous one, a period of about 15 minutes passed where I was researching why cotton produces all these fibers. I suggest you read this paper about the life of the cotton plant and these bolls; you will finish it in astonishment. Those fibers grow out of the plant’s seeds and are hollow tubes that fill with cellulose as they mature; what’s behind all of this and the variables to get to good cotton blew my mind. I thought geology was extraordinary; just read about this plant that clothes us.

Caroline Wise near Virden, New Mexico

There’s a cliche that says women love flowers. Well, that cliche never met my nerd wife who’d rather be gifted a tuft of cotton, fleece shorn from a musk ox, sheep, or alpaca, or even fiber collected from a passing animal that is shedding its winter coat.

Halloween near Virden, New Mexico

Boo! Tomorrow is Halloween, and I think this farmer is ready with this great roadside treat. After this pièce de résistance, there was only one thing left to accomplish on this day, aside from picking the pecans Caroline collected around the corner, that was to race back to Miami, Arizona, for our second encounter with Guayo’s El Rey Mexican restaurant for another kind of treat. Not bad for a weekend of staying in place and accomplishing our version of doing nothing.

Commitment to be in Place

Duncan, Arizona

Of course, a day has a beginning, and in this cliche of announcing its arrival to recount what passed in those early moments, I find myself regretting wanting to offer a laundry list of things we did, which ended up being nothing more than taking a walk in the direction of the nearby Gila River. A river that has been flowing heavily, according to our hosts, and that recently flooded this small town of Duncan, Arizona. The same river I wrote of yesterday that I thought we’d find as dry as the environment we left at home.

Giving importance to what we are doing here in Duncan seems noteworthy, although I’m looking at things that those who live here find absolutely normal. I attempt to elevate our own experience of this commonplace stop on the map so that our memories might remain with us and not be immediately lost in the multitude of impressions we take in on a day-to-day basis. This reminds me that I’ve rarely ever traveled across Phoenix with the idea of noting what sights and moments I’d capture as though I were visiting it for the first time, an exercise worthy of consideration.

Near the Gila River in Duncan, Arizona

Along the way, we encountered two guys sharing the same path. They were obviously out here looking for birds, which had me bringing up that we’d just spotted a couple of sandhill cranes, but nothing like what we’d seen earlier this year down by Douglas, Arizona. One of the guys piped up, saying that must have been Whitewater Draw; it sure was. While it took a second for my brain to process things, it dawned on me that if he knew that place, he might know of others, and so before there was much distance placed between us and them, we turned around. Well, I’m happy we did, as this introduced us to Arizona Birding Tours, with Caleb being one of their guides. He recommended that if time allows this weekend, we might want to pay a visit to the nearby Gila Box Riparian National Conservation Area. While writing this, I popped over to the Arizona Birding Tours website and signed up for their newsletter, hoping this seed sprouts and that in the new year, we’ll find ourselves on our first official birding tour.

The Gila River in Duncan, Arizona

Well, well, the Gila River is running high and even has a bit of fast water flowing through it. That the river crested at about 22 feet is evidenced in the tree line where debris collected. This must have been quite the sight. Not watching or paying attention to any local media, we often have no idea what is going on in Arizona, and to be sure, we prefer it that way.

Following our wakeup walk in the brisk air that hovered in the low 40s and included a close encounter with a herding dog ensuring we weren’t interested in his goats, we sauntered back to the oh-so-historic Simpson Hotel for our rendezvous with breakfast and our now firm decision to remain in place while attempting to do as little as possible. While not on the bongos, Clayton did take up the stove to prepare us a home-cooked meal that, as usual, smacked of perfection.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

From the kitchen, the music of Françaix’s Oboe Concerto titled L’Horloge de Flore: Silène Noctiflore is wafting into the dining room where breakfast was taken, and we are currently contemplating how we’ll implement this strategy of doing things that amount to nothing. There’s little to think about, fleeting ideas to consider writing about, and if I were smarter than I am, I’d know to leave my mouth shut and to take a vow of silence when presented with these opportunities to be somewhere with myself. Instead, I detour into small talk that leaves me uncomfortable with that dreaded sense that coffee-driven conversation was too frantic when what I thought I really wanted was internal quiet. So it goes.

Do not look for a lot of correlation between today’s images and what I write of, though sometimes that will work out. To a large extent, I have more photos of specifics while my writing might be all over the map, which others can attest to as being my norm when it comes to talking.

The Pompeian Bakery at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Sitting in the garden, having pulled up a seat in front of the Pompeian Bakery, I’m surrounded by the insects that obviously saw an explosion in their numbers due to the rains and flooding during the monsoon season. If I were a betting man, I’d wager this swarming horde is at work to drive me away while the warm sun, sound of the fountain, and chirp of crickets beg me to stay put. Mosquitos might prove persuasive enough to send me indoors, but I will not be easily defeated as I’m no village near Naples, nor are the bugs a kind of pyroclastic flow.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

One of the kittens romps about on the hunt to play with the grasshoppers and little white butterflies, while the older cats cannot be bothered with youth’s antics. The cats move between sun and shade, and the occasional visit for a quick head rub or even snuggly intimacy to let me know they have claws with a need to knead. I can only oblige one or the other for so long before they grow weary of my hand or me of their retractable needles.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

These moments of romanticized encounters in the garden were short-lived. I can blame it on the offering of coffee and that it might be better enjoyed inside, or I can admit that the sun grew oppressive, the flying insects annoying, and my patience for such things thin. Whine and comfort can exist on the same menu as I try to choose my words, but what of the proverbial substance of thought I could be serving up? Can’t say I know a definitive answer to that as I tune back into the tick-tock of the clock.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Here we are in the diorama of our own experience, looking out into a temporary reality while believing we are on yet another weekend trip. One potential alternate scenario is that we are borrowing the environment we’ve traveled to, and from the constructs offered by this place, we are temporarily within a diorama hybridizing our world with that of the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona. to create a new moment on the stage in the box of our existence. [The Latin quotes in the background are “Odi profanum vulgus et Arceo – I hate the common masses and avoid them” and “Facere quod in se est – Do what lies within you” – Caroline]

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

The pieces of who we are are like the ruins of the architecture that preceded us. We are built from their dust while the words in our heads have spilled off the pages of every book ever written. It’s our life’s work to create new architectures while penning our own novel stories, bringing mythologies and potential meaning to this entity of ours while desiring to understand the absurdity of its presence in the moments it has been granted life.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Is that the man Don Carlos behind the pig whose maw holds the glowing orb of time travel? Metaphorically and literally, I would have to say yes, but the sense of the message from the artist is lost as it is not a forthcoming gesture from him to explain anything other than maybe the title of his work. Even armed with that, there is little meaning the artist can begin to convey for the individual experiencing their art as it is from our internal dialogue and personal history that we’ll attack this interpretation of reality.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

I’ve stood here before, but the circumstances and outcomes were all different. The pieces might be the same, and the setting could be similar, but nothing is as it was. Visiting places existing in art does not benefit from changing seasons, dramatic differences in light, or the immediate weather, but we will experience them differently as our maturity and knowledge evolve. So, like visiting a favorite place over the course of many years, we should be so fortunate to revisit the art we’ve encountered during our lives but do you remember what was where over the course of your travels?

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

From this tiny corner in a larger piece, I’m going with this as a depiction of Saint Thecla when she was visiting the Apostle Paul in prison; yep, that’s what comes to mind.

The art of Don Carlos at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Hidden in the corner of the ruins of Rome sits the abandoned head of cowardly Nero Claudius Caesar Augustus Germanicus. He’s disfigured by the fires that still burn behind him. Don’t let Don Carlos tell you that my interpretations are way off base because my freebasing while writing this shit is all the inspiration I need to see the truth.

Don Carlos' workspace at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Such was the great influence of seeing the studio of Francis Bacon that I now desire to find that impression of chaos in the space of any artist’s corner I’m fortunate enough to visit. Looking at stacks of dusty tools, possibly neglected projects or pieces that were at one time intended for something or other and that yet might find their way into a work, draws me in to wonder about meaning and utility. When exploring my own headspace, I don’t have the luxury of physically moving things around. Even if of little value, I can hold a thing in my hand and let it resonate about how it could come into play. At least in the realm of digital arts, I have icons, tabs, and texts that draw me into considering what that thing can offer me; here, in my mind, I’m forced to sift through invisible impressions that might hint at ideas not yet realized.

Don Carlos' workspace at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

I’m seized by either envy or respect that by reaching out, I could grab a tool that would allow me to share a brushstroke, the beginning of a great visual piece of representation that would allow the observer to snatch a moment from my imagination. Stop a moment, Mr. Wordsmith, this other artist, is likely also stymied at times with the thought that a single brushstroke is but a line that potentially goes nowhere and is no more effective in conveying anything more than my leaving the letter Z here for no real purpose.

Don Carlos' workspace at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Is that an urn, a finial, or part of an old baluster? Next to it, a skull and shutters set up a Shakespearean randomness that occupies a shelf in the artist’s studio, while the juxtaposition might even be a contrivance speaking of the spirit of humanity ascending the heights before throwing open the shutters of the mind and imagination to gaze into and upon what it has not yet seen or dreamt.

Cobwebs at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Dust and cobwebs are proof that time has passed. They are not inherently dirty as there is no illness or disease that can accumulate or be attributed to such things. Some might argue an allergic sensitivity on behalf of the compulsively clean, who, in my view, are delusional with a propensity for drama and hysterics.

Cobwebs at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

These relics of the passage of time suggest mystery and the absence of something as though they are filling the void to allow the passerby to think that nothing else is here aside from the echoes of the past. The dust tells us that things are settling, while the cobwebs hint at where spiders dwell, though their dusty condition also offers the clue that their inhabitants have moved on. Maybe we should, too.

Caroline Wise with cat at Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

As I ponder cobwebs and dust, I can easily believe that our plastic trash, like human webs, is gathering the dust of our neglect. Of the trash, we show little concern, but should we encounter the scourge of perceived uncleanliness, we clamber for the outrage befitting such housekeeping (or lack thereof). This begs the question, is Yelp where the Karens and Kens metaphorically glue their hands onto a painting in order to express their outrage while kicking back to watch Rome burn under the plastic facade of fake concern?

There are places that demand certain things from people, such as a museum that invites one to appreciate the art, a visit to the coast on a late fall day suggests a bundled-up walk might be nice, while moments spent in an old cathedral demands silent contemplation. Here at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona, we both feel the draw of remaining in place, sitting with the cats, listening to the tick-tock of the wall clock, and experiencing the quiet of everything else.

Old movie theater in Duncan, Arizona closed since 1979

By now, I’ve walked miles in circles that don’t extend very far in any direction, primarily here at the hotel, its garden, the art gallery, and this roofless, defunct old movie theater next door. Should I stop and consider things deeply, I can recognize that much of my trek has been in the created world of artist-in-residence Don Carlos and his dioramas that foster travel through history and literature. These reflections of his musings dare the visitor to find their own interpretation of where they’ve been after going within. For me, I apparently walked endlessly in these miniature settings until, with hunger approaching, we found ourselves on a stroll outward, thus breaking the spell we’d strove for to do as much of nothing as possible.

Duncan, Arizona

There doesn’t seem to be anything else to write about. For one, we are sitting down for dinner at the Ranch House, which is our second visit today. And my writing is ignoring Caroline here on my left. I’ve handed her the two other pages of what I’ve been writing this afternoon so I can write about nothing much at all as we await the delivery of our meals. The situation then begs the question, why don’t we just bring up our phones like normal people so we can avoid conversation? Just as I ask this very question, Caroline, now finished with reading my blathering, brings up her phone and reads about the history of Our Lady of Guadalupe.

Sunset in Duncan, Arizona

Hear our prayers, holy mother of god; we have a hunger for that which nourishes our guts. Like a miracle, our enchiladas materialized right before us. Caroline corrected me on this to inform me that our server, Mackenzie, actually delivered them while I was paying more attention to being in my own world than sharing dinner with my wife.

Flittering It All Away – Trip 18

Shower repairs in Phoenix, Arizona

Apartment maintenance necessitated an impromptu weekend away from home. Due to slightly toxic fumes and the inability to use our shower before Monday, we decided to get outta town. We are heading east towards the Arizona border to the town of Duncan, just this side of New Mexico. Apparently, this will be the 4th visit to that tiny outpost, spending a night or more, though not all stays involved, both Caroline and me, and we’ve been through there at other times.

Caroline Wise at Starbucks in Mesa, Arizona

Who knew that we’d get out so early that there would be time to flitter away? That’s just what happened when Caroline told me she was ready to leave as 2:00 p.m. came around. A decision had to be made: where would hang out a bit to delay our adventure due to appetite and dining options? Well, traffic on a Friday played a role here. I knew it would have to be past the intersection of Highway 202 and Highway 60 so the worst of the traffic would be behind us. Starbucks was the answer, just not one in a grocery store, and that’s just where we are. Caroline is knocking out some DuoLingo stuff before getting to knitting my next pair of socks, and as for me, obviously, I took the photo and am writing this paragraph. But I’m almost done here; it’s only 3:10, and I’m thinking we’ll leave here in about 30 minutes, so I’ll return to writing about our first trip to Hawaii in which, after visiting three other islands, we have arrived on Molokai.

Billboard about The Big Lie entering Miami, Arizona

A key part of this journey east has other requirements, such as stopping for dinner in Guayo’s El Rey in Miami. You might think, “Hey John, what about La Paloma Mexican restaurant over in Solomon?” I’d love to inform you that Solomon is only 35 miles from where we’re staying, so either Saturday night or Sunday afternoon, we’ll be stopping there, too. Then there’s the Ranch House restaurant right there in Duncan where we’ll likely take lunch tomorrow as we do like supporting the local economy. As for activities, I’m still eyeballing those options, with Caroline already having voiced the idea that we could simply hang out, sit in the garden, walk along the likely dry riverbed of the Gila River, write, knit, and do other nothingnesses.

Taylor Freeze in Pima, Arizona

The “Enable The Big Lie” sign was on the way into Miami and required a U-turn around to take a closer look as neither of us could believe it hadn’t been defaced or if it even meant what we thought it meant. These rural corners of Arizona are chock full of extremist rightwing fascists who are so tanked up on anger that, even if I were inclined to put bumper stickers on cars, I couldn’t at this time due to the potential of imbeciles to target our car in a hate crime. Hell, even driving a hybrid feels like flirting with potential risk, as who other than some lefty pansy would consider anything that won’t haul 42 tons and burn diesel?

When we leave the metropolitan area, I go on guard to stay out of the way of the white, angry, 20- to 55-year-old men driving trucks with wheels as big as my wife is tall, and conversely, when we approach cities, I’m on guard once again keeping an eye out for the maniacs driving like animals on the hunt aiming for home, where there must be a fresh lamb awaiting slaughter.

With my brain making me feel the rumblies of stress, we required a stop at Taylor Freeze in Pima in need of a treat that only one of their chocolate shakes could satisfy.

Rainbows of Contemplation

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

You can be certain that we were nearly the first at breakfast as we were uncertain at which point they’d run out of food. Should you wonder why we didn’t head somewhere else for dinner or breakfast, well, “somewhere else” is Jacob Lake, about 45 miles away, which requires an easy hour to drive in each direction.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

It’s a rare day in a national park that we pull up to the best seats in a lodge to just sit back and watch the weather pass, but that’s what we are embarking on right now. From a still-dark canyon when we first peeked into this fog-filled void prior to our visit to the dining room, the rain comes and goes. Also on the move have been some whisps of clouds forming off the edges of cliffs and nearby outcroppings.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

In between, the sun pops out and brings golden light to small corners of the vast landscape sprawled before us, while at other fleeting moments, rainbows spring into their ephemeral existence and just as quickly fade away. The canopy floats by or is it hovering over the canyon? Whatever it’s doing or how it might be characterized, it’s beautiful.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

Sitting here, I think about how, previously, we’ve seen others passing their time at this picture window and thought they were wasting an opportunity when they could have been on the go and capturing so much more outside on the trails. Maybe that was a testament to how much more contemplative those people were as compared to us at the time because here we are today, just like those people, monopolizing the comfy leather couch facing the panorama window.

Rainbow at the Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

Just one of the many rainbows we watched come and go.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

There won’t be a lot of variation in these photos aside from shifting weather and light as our plan to hit the North Kaibab Trail for a few miles of hiking today has been scratched due to the rain and our general satisfaction that not only had we hiked a considerable amount yesterday (about 12 miles), but we have these great seats that seem to be encouraging us to keep them warm (and get some sock knitting done).

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

A funny aside, when people want to step in front of the window we are camping at, they often excuse themselves as though the view was all ours.

Peggy Walker and Caroline Wise at the Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

Funnier yet was meeting Larry and Peggy Walker, World Travelers. Larry first tried passing his wife off on me; well, he threatened that she might sit in my lap if I objected to sharing the view. This was followed up by him moving slyly into my spot next to Caroline when I had stood up to snap a photo or two. His smiling face of “Gotcha” was certainly worth a good laugh. It turned out that these two were celebrating their 50th anniversary this week while also accompanying some friends who were renewing their vows in Vegas. Larry and Peggy are just an awesome happy couple and an inspiration to both of us. Hopefully, we, too see our 50th anniversary someday.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

We sat a bit longer and started to learn that many people want to stop and talk, so contemplative moments are not all that easy to have. With this realization, we consider that it’s time to get moving again, but just then, another weather front is coming in from the east, and I’m curious to watch the canyon disappear again. As we got up after sitting there for close to three hours, we saw that all around us, the trappings that make the lodge a comfy place had been disappearing as the crew, anxious to be finished for the season, had been busy clearing the place out.

Vermilion Cliffs seen from Marble Canyon, Arizona

This must be a record year regarding how many times we’ve passed through the Vermilion Cliffs area, and each encounter is as worthy as any of the other travels through here.

Over the Colorado River on the Navajo Bridge in Marble Canyon, Arizona

I’ve taken countless photos over the years of the Colorado River from the Navajo Bridge but I’m not sure I’ve ever taken one in this kind of light. I took this thought not as yet another iteration of this scene but as an establishing shot of what comes next. First, though, there’s a tiny detail at the top of the cliffside on the right, and while you can’t see it right now, it’ll all become clear in the next photo. Oh, and consider that the bridge we are on is 467 feet (142 meters) over the river below, which should give you some idea about the scale.

Condors at Navajo Bridge in Marble Canyon, Arizona

On the lower right sits an incredibly rare bird, rarer than its parents, above it to the left. That black spot is a fledgling condor born in the wild, one of a small handful. These are just three of the approximately 115 condors that are hopefully still alive in Arizona, and if I had to guess, I’d say that Caroline and I have seen no less than 15 of these giants of the scavenger world or more than 10% of all condors in our state; that’s simultaneously cool and tragic. Think about it: we are barely holding on to the 500 or so California Condors that still exist, although that’s from a low point of just 27 birds left in existence back in 1987. If we are having this difficulty keeping a species of bird with a 10-foot wide wingspan alive, what would make us believe we can keep ourselves going into the future? And if you believe it’s natural selection, the demise of condors was due to humans using lead ammunition for hunting and leaving animals and entrails in the wild where the birds would naturally finish them off. The resulting lead poisoning nearly brought them to extinction.

Rainbow seen over Highway 89 north of Flagstaff, Arizona

Since leaving the remarkable sight of the fledgling, we’ve been hitting intermittent rain, sometimes heavy. Just south of Flagstaff, the intensity of this rainbow demanded we stop. Sadly, the photo does it no justice.

Flagstaff, Arizona

From a distance, we thought we were looking at sun rays shining through the clouds onto the forest that sits on the flank of San Francisco Mountain below Humphry’s Peak, that’s well out of sight. Nope, it wasn’t until we pulled over that we saw the thousands of Aspen trees changing color with the change of season.

Rainbow seen over Highway 17 south of Flagstaff, Arizona

Hmmm, maybe Sedona is the magic place so many believe it is, as here we are at Highway 179, which is the exit for Sedona, and it was double-rainbows all the way.

Arizona Canyons

Caroline Wise at Lees Ferry between Vermilion Cliffs National Monument and the Grand Canyon in Arizona

This is not where our day began, as a breakfast of rocks wouldn’t have been on our menu, but this is where today’s adventure got underway. We are on the Honey Moon Trail on our way to Lees Ferry, not that we are on our honeymoon, but then again, I believe Caroline would chime in with enthusiastic agreement; we seem to be on a forever honeymoon that’s never-ending. Not neverending like Die Unendliche Geschichte (The NeverEnding Story by Michael Ende) but more like we just keep celebrating almost every day as though we got married 10 minutes ago. Well then, if we are so in love and happy, why is Caroline standing alone under that massive, precariously balanced boulder? One of two answers comes to mind: I don’t have 30-foot-long arms, or I don’t have a tripod with me; you choose the answer that works for you.

Lees Ferry between Vermilion Cliffs National Monument and the Grand Canyon in Arizona

This is the Lees Ferry area and the site of not only a bunch of history but also the beginning of the Grand Canyon National Park. As for the history, this is where the Honey Moon Trail comes in, which I think should be the Honeymoon Trail, but I’m not one to argue the naming of roads. I can share that the reason behind the name has to do with Mormons and their wagon roads reaching the Colorado River here on their way to St. George, Utah, to get their marriages sealed in the Temple. Lees Ferry is named such because it was John Doyle Lee who operated the ferry here in order for the newlyweds to reach St. George. Caroline and my history here is most notably recognized by a book I wrote titled Stay In The Magic: A Voyage Into The Beauty Of The Grand Canyon, which describes how we embarked on our first whitewater adventure from these very shores a dozen years ago.

Fossil near Lees Ferry on the Colorado River near the Grand Canyon, Arizona

It’s only natural that fossils should easily be seen in the area since we are in some small way descended in the bowels of the earth, in an open-air version of that. Now approaching my 60th year of life, I wonder how much longer it will be until the jokes begin that I’m the living fossil in the places I’ll be finding myself on this continuing journey.

Near Lees Ferry on the Colorado River above the Grand Canyon, Arizona

On one hand, this view is new to us; on the other hand, we’ve traveled down those calm waters of the Colorado River that flow 15 miles from the Glen Canyon Dam here to Lees Ferry. Then, downstream from Lees Ferry, you’ll encounter countless roaring rapids punctuating miles of tranquil river heading to the sea, actually to farms, pools, golf courses, and some drinking water outlets, as almost nothing reaches the sea anymore.

Caroline Wise near Lees Ferry on the Colorado River above the Grand Canyon, Arizona

The first leg of our hiking today was the Sampson Trail Lookout, and I intentionally put that in the past tense as we didn’t get very far before a narrow part of the trail with a precarious dropoff stopped me in my tracks; such is life living with acrophobia.

Near Lees Ferry on the Colorado River above the Grand Canyon, Arizona

Leaving the Sampson Trail and rejoining the Colorado River via Lees Ferry Trail, which runs along the shoreline, we spotted an old section of cable used for guiding ferries across the river back in the day.

Near Lees Ferry on the Colorado River above the Grand Canyon, Arizona

Lees Ferry Fort is one of the few remaining buildings from those early days of the crossing; this one was built in the 1870s.

Orchard at Lonely Dell Ranch part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area in Arizona

The Lonely Dell Ranch orchard was a part of the Lee family homestead. Seeing our hike up the Sampson Trail was cut short, we decided we’d walk up the Paria Canyon Trail awhile. This ranch, which included numerous buildings also for people working the land, sustained the ferry operators starting with the Lees and subsequent families. The many varieties of fruit trees that remain from this big farm are taken care of by Park Service employees and the fruit is freely available for pickers when in season.

Lonely Dell Ranch part of the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area in Arizona

Other than this being identified by others as a 1930s Chevrolet truck, I can’t share anything else about it. In the background on the right is the old cemetery that saw too many children from the Johnson family who took over operations after the law caught up with John Doyle Lee. So here’s the rest of the story: Mr. Lee was actually hiding out at the ferry, trying to have a normal life, but someone needed to be the fall guy for the Mountain Meadows Massacre in which at least 120 members of the Baker–Fancher emigrant wagon train out of Arkansas where shot by adherents of the LDS church. The mass killing by the Nauvoo Legion happened due to hysteria among church leaders, likely including Brigham Young, though that connection was never proven.

Near the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Area in Arizona

This bend in the Paria River was also the site of a pumping station that watered the ranch downriver after the failure of a few dams that had been built previously for that purpose. Our trail hugs the disappearing wall on the left and while I thought this might be the end of our walk upriver, I found the wherewithal to not give up too early.

Near the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Area in Arizona

There was a time we’d considered hiking the length of Paria Canyon, a multi-day trek that covers about 38 miles, but after getting to a narrow cliff shelf we would have had to traverse up in the curve on the left, I can only stand in awe, and simultaneous horror that worse could lay ahead. Of course, we could have also taken our chances and crossed over the river that, in places, didn’t look all that deep, but we weren’t prepared for wet feet or yanking ourselves out of knee-deep mud, so this is about as far as we got on this hike.

Vermilion Cliffs National Monument in Arizona

Nothing left to do here now but get to our next destination, which will require a long lens for the camera and our binoculars, except I won’t divulge that activity quite yet. I will share that it, too, is situated in Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, which is what you are looking at here.

Vermilion Cliffs National Monument in Arizona

And this? More Vermilion Cliffs from about the same spot as the previous photo, but instead of looking southwest, I’m looking northwest. While it might be difficult to tease out of this lower resolution web-friendly image, there’s a lower bit of mesa on the right of the photo at the foot of the massive towering cliffs looming over it; look closely, and you might see a diagonal line where you can see lighter and darker soil. At that spot is a narrow single-lane dirt road that has been carved leading up to the mesa, and from what I can see on Google Earth is that there are at least five dwellings up there. You could give me one of the properties, and the only way I’d get home is to walk up the road, and it’s undrivable as far as I’m concerned.

Caroline Wise at the Soap Creek Trail gate between Vermilion Cliffs National Monument and the Grand Canyon in Arizona

Oh, you want to turn around and stop there? Okay, we can do that. Caroline is holding the gate open as we are about to visit the Soap Creek Trail that heads right down to the Colorado River. That spot was the first place where we camped back in 2010 when we found ourselves on that whitewater trip I frequently reference.

Soap Creek Trail between Vermilion Cliffs National Monument and the Grand Canyon in Arizona

This looks promising as we head right down the dry wash; it’s a bit sandy in places, but no mud.

Soap Creek Trail between Vermilion Cliffs National Monument and the Grand Canyon in Arizona

At about one mile in or about 3 miles from the river, we reach what at times is obviously a waterfall, but today could only act as a humanfall if we dared navigate our way down the non-existent trail. Later, we learned that there are places where hikers would benefit from having rappelling ropes or webbing with them to get in and out of the trickier parts of the trail, though others report that they found the canyon easily navigable and found ways down the dry waterfalls and over heavy boulder fields. We took off on this hike in part because Alltrails ranks it as moderate, like the South Kaibab Trail to Cedar Ridge in the Grand Canyon that we hiked with my 74-year-old (at the time) mother-in-law. This type of hike should be rated as hard; maybe with a guide, it would have been easier, but like Michelle Dobyne once said, “Not Today….and we bounced out.”

Spider on the Soap Creek Trail between Vermilion Cliffs National Monument and the Grand Canyon in Arizona

There we were bouncing out when Mrs. Spider spoke up and said, “Would you two enjoy a crispy-wrapped grasshopper on your travels?” Of course, we are down with your brand of websushi and so we gobbled down our gift and found ourselves 41% less disappointed that we had to turn around and not reach the Colorado River at Soap Creek Canyon.

Caroline Wise on the Soap Creek Trail between Vermilion Cliffs National Monument and the Grand Canyon in Arizona

Do not think for a moment that we were really disappointed, nor believe that we accepted that grasshopper offering. If you just look at the environment in which we added two more miles to our accumulating miles of trails hiked, you can easily deduce that we were as happy as clams.

Vermilion Cliffs National Monument in Arizona

Way up this road near Utah is the Wave, a world-famous geological feature that’s a part of the Coyote Buttes. Well before that, near the end of the visible road in this photo, is a small parking lot, a toilet, a covered picnic table, a really poor viewing scope, and all of that is there because over on the cliffs to the right are the homes of incredibly rare condors. A few weeks ago, as we were crossing the Navajo Bridge, we learned about a condor release that was happening the next day, but our plans had us up at the Great Basin National Park. So, knowing that there were five new condors that had been recently released here, we were sure to bring the binoculars and my long lens with the hope we might catch sight of them.

Condor release area at the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument in Arizona

Well, if it isn’t our luckiest day ever? We encountered three people from the Peregrine Fund representing the Condor Cliffs program set up with chairs and scopes. We figured they were monitoring the birds that had been released back on September 24th. Wrong, they were here not only monitoring them but also looking at the clifftop release pen holding more condors for an upcoming unannounced release. With the naked eye, there was nothing to see, so the lady volunteer from Montana invited us to peer through her scope, and BLAM, there was the cage and a bunch of condors.

Vermilion Cliffs National Monument in Arizona

Out there on the eastern cliffs are those condors, and nearby, hidden in a blind, is at least one biologist camping out in 4-day shifts to closely monitor the birds in conjunction with the folks we met next to the road. The cabin-like structure behind the release pen is a mobile lab in which they can examine birds, repair radio trackers, and do other condor-related stuff to support the birds’ adaptation to living in the wild.

Aspen in fall at the Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

While down in Phoenix, we’ve still been flirting with temperatures close to 100 degrees, it’s obvious up here that fall is in full force. I probably shot more than a dozen images of yellow, orange, and reddish aspen, but contrast and a wildfire-scarred landscape at other locations made it difficult to snag a decent photo. Combine the desire to photograph the vibrancy with the hope we’d reach the north rim of the Grand Canyon, and I probably didn’t give my effort enough time to find the right scene. As it turned out, we started running into heavy cloud cover before we ever reached even the park entrance.

A deer at the Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

Oh, deer, I almost forgot to share the stats for today. At the time of seeing this dear deer, Caroline and I already exchanged verbal expressions of love about 114 times which is kind of weak for us because it works out to just over five times per hour per person. This rather pathetic statistic of once per 11 and 1/2 minutes doesn’t reflect favorably, but please try to understand that we’ve been distracted by the multitude of sights and sounds that captured our attention, effectively leading to us nearly ignoring each other. Hug stats were also off as our hug-o-meters registered less than one per hour and, if truth be known, it was closer to a hug per two hours. If all that wasn’t bad enough, the snuggle factor as measured during our waking moments today would appear sad and tragic due to the excitement of getting out under the rising sun and overwhelming the obligatory routine of indulgent snugglage. Come Monday, we’ll be working hard to repair all that.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

While there is no sunset illuminating the sky with vibrant oranges, reds, and purples at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, at least there’s no rain. There are also no dining options as the restaurant is booked solid, and the saloon is out of food, as is the deli, aside from some macaroni salad and potato chips. Today is the last full day of business on this side of the canyon before things shut down until next year. Apparently, Aramark has been working hard to ruin the experience of visitors who spend $185 a night minimum to be here by not only not having a place for us to eat, but they also didn’t have staff to make beds and simply put our bedding, neatly folded at least, on the beds for us to make them ourselves. Of course, the executive staff could easily blame local management and staff (or rather, lack of staff), but anyone with half a brain should easily surmise that the conditions that affect these kinds of situations are budgetary in nature and that is dictated by a corporate office, not the workers in the field. As a matter of fact, the staff we dealt with have been tremendous and as accommodating as they could be, especially Anna at the deli, who found me a bowl of chili that allowed me to take my meds on a full stomach like I’m supposed to.

Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, Arizona

Fortunately, the Grand Canyon cannot disappoint nor can the weather conditions, as whatever the situation, we are being offered yet another unique opportunity to view this spectacle in a way that seems new to these eyes that have gazed into this abyss countless times by now.