Miracle Valley Bible Church

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

On our visit to southern Arizona the other weekend, I was reminded of a previous visit when we passed by the Miracle Valley Bible Church (MVBC) and realized that I had not shared my photos from inside the abandoned buildings. On a day back in May 2019, when I was exploring the area by myself (while Caroline was attending a fiber event in nearby Bisbee), the gate to the property was open, so I casually walked up the driveway. Spotting someone, I continued towards him, apologizing if I were, in fact, trespassing. He assured me that I was okay and welcomed me. I no longer remember his name, nor can I find any notes, if indeed I even wrote any.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

Before venturing out onto the property, I was told some of the history of the Tabernacle and the story of AA Allen (the initials stand for Asa Alonso). What I didn’t hear about on that day was the shootout with law enforcement back in 1982 or that AA died from alcohol poisoning. The irony is not lost on me.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

In its heyday, the bible church, various buildings, and an airstrip sat on over 2,500 acres and catered to those believing in faith healing. After Allen’s death in 1970, Minister Don Stewart assumed the operational role of leading the MVBC, which seems to have been a kind of non-starter. Who did gain traction in the area was Pastor Frances Thomas, who wanted to purchase the property but was denied, so she picked up land across the street and, with members of the MVBC congregation, formed the Christ Miracle Healing Center and Church (CMHCC).

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

Allegedly, she had ideas of making the work of Jim Jones look like child’s play, though obviously (and thankfully) that never came to fruition, though a (relatively minor) shootout did occur. Regarding the hysteria around this incident at the time, it should be pointed out that the CMHCC was an all-black congregation, and anyone living in Arizona back in those days knows the kind of racism that was alive and well in this state.

While I was visiting the site, I was amazed that a mural that was now well over 50 years old had never been vandalized. The painting was created by Alfred Gerstmayr.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

There’s the mural with AA Allen front and center.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

AA Allen is buried out here. I wonder what a grave on the property means for a future owner.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

On the day of the shootout between the sheriff’s department and members of CMHCC, Frances Thomas’s son William was one of several people who died or were wounded.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

True, none of these buildings or anything on this side of the street had anything really to do with the shootout other than the unfortunate naming of the incident as the Miracle Valley Shootout.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

Don Stewart is still alive and well, apparently living in Paradise Valley, Arizona, in a multi-million dollar home because faith healing and speaking in tongues pay well, which also works for his son. If you want to see something crazy, watch one of the videos on YouTube of events where they’ve allowed themselves to be recorded for posterity, demonstrating their madness.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

I’m tempted to be envious of those who are able to goad the less fortunate, i.e., mentally off-base, into giving whatever money they have to wealthy scammers who gladly take their earnings for their own benefit. Those downtrodden, hurt people looking for miracles because they have nothing else to believe in are being victimized, but with the United States protecting religious rights, people are free to be fleeced by shysters every day of the week. The tax-exempt status of these religious entities enables these “clerics” to pocket their wealth and, in the case of Don Stewart, put expensive homes in the name of the church to better protect the impression of nefarious ill-gotten gains at the expense of the less fortunate. I guess this is the real benefit of near-absolute freedom: we are free to be as stupid and greedy as we choose.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

As for Frances Thomas, she died in 1995 after relocating to Chicago.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

I understand that many attempts have been made to rehabilitate the site, but all efforts have failed so far.

John Wise at Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

There is something creepy about the place, not only because it’s now in ruin but also because of the whole cult-like atmosphere that surrounds the history of the religious zealots that descended upon this remote desert outpost.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

One really has to wonder if this message hasn’t been here forever because if someone got in to leave this message, why is that old mural untouched?

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

I only wish that someone else had photographed the grounds and buildings just a couple of years after everything was mostly abandoned so we could see the rate of decay and what else was still here after everyone evacuated the property.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

I’m also left wondering if AA Allen once lived in one of these rooms or was the private airstrip on their 2,500 acres used to whisk him away to other healing engagements to channel Jesus through himself to cure the sick.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

Today, I’m asking myself why I didn’t take the whisk or coffee cup, so I’d have a creepy bit of nostalgia here at home.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

If Caroline had been with me on this day, I do believe there’s a good chance we would have sat down on this loveseat and figured out a way to take a photo of us on this molding old relic. As a matter of fact, when we drove by on our trip in 2023, had the gate been open or had I spotted someone out walking the land, I would have certainly loved to pay another visit.

Miracle Valley Bible Church near Hereford, Arizona

So, this was it, the nearly lost images from my visit to the Miracle Valley Bible Church back in 2019.

Cold With a Side of Fangs

The Gadsden Hotel in Douglas, Arizona

When in love and loving what you are doing, there’s an element of joy that seems to continuously make itself known. We wake with that sense and never fail to exchange an affectionate word and snuggle before stepping into the day. Getting things together feels mostly effortless as the routines are well-known and not fraught with tensions. Next up, verify that the world is the same one you went to sleep in. Are things where they should be? We’ll likely try to send ourselves out for a walk, if possible, prior to getting something to eat because it feels right and helps bring the senses and body to full wakefulness. If the first meal of the day is suboptimal, that’s okay, as it’s just food, and something else will come along that’s certain to delight us. I’m not only describing the routine when traveling, but this is also our average day.

This is the lobby of the Gadsden Hotel and the same spot on the balcony from where I shot a photo I shared last year during our previous stay. Well, there are subtle differences between the images, but nothing glaring.

Art Car World in Douglas, Arizona

There are days that we don’t really know what comes next. We may have a loose idea, but ideas are not locked in stone; they are suggestions. Take this morning, we had three potentialities but with rain in the forecast, the first option of a long walk in Bisbee was stricken from the list. We could have opted to drive northeast towards Rodeo, New Mexico, and Lordsburg past that before heading towards Duncan, Arizona, holding the promise of taking us to Miami for yet another encounter with my favorite carne asada at Guayo’s El Rey Mexican restaurant or we could head straight north for a return visit to Fort Bowie National Historic Site. We opted for the northern trek because it’s been 20 years since we were last at the fort.

Art Car World in Douglas, Arizona

First, though, we have to complete our pre-breakfast walk around the downtown area, where window shopping is not much of an option because while there are windows, only a few have things behind them that are of any interest. Just off the main street is Art Car World, which we visited twice last year on the same weekend. Today, we’ll simply peer into the place as we won’t be sticking around until 11:00, when they open.

Mural in Douglas, Arizona

There’s an art shop on the main street that might hold promise with its modern facade, but there’s not a thing to be seen beyond the opaque front end. Behind this mural is a small Mexican joint we considered having breakfast at, but there was no menu in the window, so we kept on going. We are those people who, once inside and sensing the owners are struggling, we’ll eat there just to help them out, even if what’s on the menu isn’t what we really want. Instead, we walked back to the hotel to eat there before collecting our bags to hit the road.

Road out of Douglas, Arizona

Beautiful clouds and deep blue skies were overhead; what was on the horizon was another story. We may have driven 15 miles before we decided that things were looking so grim ahead that there was no chance we’d be driving the short dirt road out to Fort Bowie, and we’d likely not enjoy walking in the mud either, so we turned around.

Option number 2, driving northeast, became our new choice; plus, it allowed us to go back and inspect just what kind of bird I spotted lying dead next to the road: hawk or owl. It was an owl, a beautiful barn owl with awesome feathers. A number of them joined us in the car for the drive home. Sadly, before getting back to Douglas to take the other road, I spotted another dead barn owl; seems like these roads are dangerous for their species.

Geronimo Monument on Highway 80 in Arizona

Yep, I’m gonna go there…this rather phallic-looking Geronimo Surrender Monument could only have been designed by a white guy because not only does it represent an embarrassment to the Apache people, but it’s in the shape of either a penis or a middle finger, which in my opinion curses the Apache nation and reminds them of how they were conquered and subdued. This thing should be demolished and replaced with something that honors the Apache people.

Highway 80 in Arizona

We are at the southern end of the Chiricahua Mountains and just a few miles away from entering New Mexico. While we won’t be heading into the Chiricahuas today, we’ve always meant to return to the crossroads in the mountains called Portal, so we might spend a weekend and go hiking up there someday.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at the New Mexico State Line

Twenty-three years is a good long time to accumulate so much gray hair; I’m referencing this because I just went looking for the last time we crossed through this way, and it appears to have been back in 2000, or maybe that was the first time and I just missed noting this location in the intervening posts. I was wondering if Caroline and I had taken a selfie at this state line before. What I came up with was a photo I had taken of her and her mom. While countless adventures have happened since those days, there’s also something “blink of an eye” about the time; I can’t imagine what time feels like to those who’ve not taken advantage of the rare commodity.

Chiricahua Desert Museum in Rodeo, New Mexico

Just as we were about to pass the turnoff for Portal, Arizona, while driving through Rodeo, New Mexico, we spotted the Chiricahua Desert Museum (there’s no missing it). No matter what was in this small outpost, we’d pay the entry fee to support such an endeavor out in the middle of nowhere. Well, it turns out that they have an incredible exhibit featuring venomous creatures, primarily snakes.

Chiricahua Desert Museum in Rodeo, New Mexico

I can’t say I’ve ever had a more intimate encounter with these fascinating-looking serpents, but I’m also a bit saddened by the idea that they don’t get to live the life of the creature they are because they are on display for me. While I certainly don’t want to come into close proximity with one of them where they might be within striking distance, I do like knowing they are out in the wild, fulfilling their role of being a snake.

Chiricahua Desert Museum in Rodeo, New Mexico

I don’t think we consider the lowly snakes very often, though they are nearly everywhere on our earth. They are enigmatic compared to gorillas, dolphins, or polar bears, and yet they are distributed to almost every corner. ChatGPT via Bing informs me that about 1/3 of all people have a phobia of these slithery reptiles, which places them just behind people’s fear of spiders, which is the number one phobia of people. As I stop to think about what I know regarding snakes, I realize I know more about weaving, fermentation, salt, and the behavior of grumpy old men than I do about snakes. A cursory overview at Amazon about titles that could enlighten this dark corner of knowledge doesn’t look very promising.

Chiricahua Desert Museum in Rodeo, New Mexico

Sitting under its head is this snake’s rattle. I just learned that it’s made of keratin, the same stuff that makes up our fingernails. Also, the number of rattles is not a precise indicator of its age because a snake can shed its skin more than once a year.

Chiricahua Desert Museum in Rodeo, New Mexico

There are other parts of the museum, though the largest part of the exhibit is regarding snakes and, strangely enough, beers that have a venomous theme.

Chiricahua Desert Museum in Rodeo, New Mexico

While there are a few artifacts from the nearby indigenous people, this shouldn’t be anyone’s principal reason for stopping in.

State Highway 9 in western New Mexico

It was still partly sunny when we stepped out of the museum, but it was super windy. We turned on Highway 9 going east in order to avoid a few miles of Interstate 10 as those major roads only offer expediency in exchange for dealing with serious aggression, while out here, we have this.

Animas, New Mexico

This is about all that’s left of Animas, New Mexico, with its shrinking population dwindling down to a lowly 180 people.

Lordsburg, New Mexico

We are nearing the outskirts of Lordsburg, New Mexico, at this point, and while this is at a distance from the downtown area, it is indicative of everything we drove past. This desert outpost has been mostly declining for the past 70 years. Its claim to fame is peculiar: first, it once held a Japanese American internment camp, and secondly, it was one of the very few places with a motel in the southwest that would accept black guests prior to the end of segregation.

Duncan Highway north of Lordsburg, New Mexico

As we weren’t inclined to eat at McDonald’s back in Lordsburg, and the only other restaurant we might have considered is closed on Sunday, we decided on heading into Duncan for lunch at the Ranch House we knew we could count on having a pretty decent patty melt.

Duncan Highway north of Lordsburg, New Mexico

By the time we stopped, the clouds had shifted yet again. We’d already tried getting a shot of these mountains with shadows speckled across them, but those moments of perfection only lasted seconds.

Arizona State Line on the Duncan Highway

Our time out of state was brief but well worth the detour.

Mt Graham from Safford, Arizona

After our quick lunch in Duncan, we were soon passing through Safford in the shadow of Mt. Graham. We have a reservation this summer to visit the International Observatory that’s perched up there.

Sun over San Carlos Indian Reservation in Arizona

There’s an extraordinary amount of snow on this landscape today, but the drama being played out in the sky was worth capturing, too.

Mountain Breeze Memorial Gardens in Miami, Arizona

We had to stop at Mountain Breeze Memorial Gardens in Miami because we couldn’t believe that it snowed up here and didn’t think we’d be in the snowline much longer.

Caroline Wise at Top Of The World, Arizona

I suppose it only makes sense that here at Top-of-the-World west of Miami, there should be snow; still, we were surprised, though maybe more so, by the Nigerian dwarf goats that ran over to say hi or to look for food. Being at the edge of another country, hiking, birds, great food, snow, snakes, and goats all make for yet another perfect weekend in the ongoing adventure that is our lives.

Another Southwest Experience

Breakfast at Baja Cafe in Tucson, Arizona

Breakfast entered the charts under the category of “wow” and, for the umpteenth time, triggered the big question: why are we living in Phoenix again? Baja Cafe in Tucson appeared on a number of Best Breakfast” lists. We thought Five Points Market & Restaurant was brilliant, and it was, but Baja Cafe ups the ante with some uniquely inspired creations, such as their variations on eggs benedict. From their menu, I’ll just share their exact description of the dish pictured:

Brisket Caramelo – Grilled crisp Caramelos stuffed with shredded brisket, tomatoes, chorizo, cheddar, and Jack cheese. Topped with two strips of corn husk smoked bacon, fire-roasted diced green chile, and two poached eggs. Finished with a combination of New Mexican red chile sauce and a smoked gouda cheese sauce, pico de gallo, cotija cheese, and pickled onions.

Last night at El Charro, upon hearing us talk about breakfast options in Tucson, our server recommended Baja Cafe and told us that one of his favorites there was the corned beef hash, so Caroline ordered it. We shared both plates and agreed that the corned beef hash was the best we’d ever had, while this play on eggs benedict will hopefully bring us back to try some of the other variations of this otherwise staid dish. After breakfast, it was time to hit the road.

South of Tucson heading to Sonoita, Arizona

Leaving Interstate 10 in Vail in the direction of Sonoita on Highway 83, there were a couple of glimpses of sun, but for the most part, the sky just grew cloudier.

Heading to Sierra Vista, Arizona

Even before leaving Tucson, we were drawn into the snow-covered mountains surrounding the city, with the exception of the west. The mountains in the other three directions had a healthy dusting of snow, which, for us central Arizona desert dwellers, is a sight for dry eyes. I had figured that the snow was going to be unique to Tucson, but I was wrong as seen right here just outside of Sonoita looking at Mount Wrightson.

Sierra Vista, Arizona

Our old friend Mal de Puerco joined us in the car, and under the gray skies with our seat heaters on, we needed a stop in Sierra Vista for coffee lest we find the car driving itself over the tan grasses more suited for grazing cows than napping pigs. The forecast calls for sun in the afternoon, and so before that, we’ll just mosey along with nary a concern about what to do next, except Caroline is nudging me that our 10-minute coffee stop has now stretched into nearly 30 minutes, so off we go on our trip further south. The mountain on the left is Miller Peak in Hereford, flanked by Carr Peak on the right.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

It was almost a coin toss regarding visiting Bisbee or Coronado National Memorial, but Coronado won since we couldn’t remember being there in the past 20 years. It turns out that it’s been almost exactly 20 years since our last visit because my blog showed us that it was back in May 2003 that we were last down here. Two things: back on the left, you can see a hint of blue sky, but the elephant in the room is, why is this sign reading “Smuggle + Flee = Jail” right before the entry to the park?

Caroline Wise at Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

Ten years ago, in a land far, far away stood the imposing figure of Caroline the Warrior donning simulated battle gear at the Frankfurt Historical Museum, but today, we are in the land of Get Real, and you put on an authentic recreation or just get lost. Chain mail armor is heavy-duty stuff with an emphasis on heavy. After getting Caroline into that metal shirt, which felt like it weighed 30 pounds, followed by the mail coif over her head, she opted for the helmet of the Kniggits instead of the more fashionable mohawk style she wore in Germany. Click that link in the top line and scroll down to see what I’m talking about. It turned out that her glasses helped the helmet stay put because after she took them off, the weight of the steel helmet fell onto her nose.

Caroline Wise at Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

But with that, she was now angry enough at what I was putting her through that she was able to channel a fierce rendition of one of the soldiers traveling with Francisco Vazquez de Coronado back in 1540. Anyone else in the visitors center might have thought us drunken fools from our boisterous laughter. We were locked in side-splitting fits of laughing, the kind that starts to take your breath away and pulls tears from your eyes.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

We expected the gray weather to continue, but after indulging in that roaring laugh attack, the weather gods must have recognized that we were ready for joy because when we went back outside, the sun had come out and stayed with us. The view is of Montezuma Peak behind the visitor’s center.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

Armed with a Junior Ranger booklet, we took off to see how far we could get on Joe’s Canyon Trail, how far because when I enquired about steep dropoffs on the trail, I was told there might be a couple of spots.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

Somehow, I managed to get past this constriction, probably because I’d not had enough of the trail yet, and after more than a couple of months without any hiking, I desperately wanted some serious nature time, and with the weather cooperating, we needed to persevere.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

The views up here were spectacular, but after our time on this trail, we would drive up higher towards Coronado Peak and capture even better views of mostly the same sights, so I’m saving what’s out on the horizon until we get there.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

We made it to about 600 feet of the 1000 feet of elevation gain Joe’s Canyon Trail should have delivered when I reached the limit of my ability to handle the narrowing trail, and at about 1.5 miles, we turned around for the hike back to the visitors center.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

After our hike, we drove up to Montezuma’s Pass for what we would have both sworn was our first visit to this particular vantage point, but my blog would prove us wrong.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

I hadn’t planned on taking our new car on dirt roads quite yet, but there we were at the base of the mountain, facing the choice of babying our pristine Kia Niro with only about 500 miles on it or seizing the day and conquering the mountain on a narrow rocky dirt path to Montezuma Pass and the Coronado Overlook just past that.

Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

We were on a race against time as the visitors center down below was going to close at 4:00 and Caroline had to turn in her junior ranger booklet before that.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

Good thing there was still time to take a selfie up here. The majority of the view behind us is looking into Mexico; I think it’s making me look old.

Caroline Wise at Coronado National Memorial in Hereford, Arizona

Caroline made it, meaning not only were we on time, but she possibly answered everything correctly. I say possibly because not a concern was paid about what she scrawled in the booklet which is unfortunate as she really makes an effort to do justice to the questions which, while aimed at children, require a serious bit of work. Her enthusiasm shows how seriously she is taking the honor of being sworn in as a junior ranger, even if it’s her 100th badge.

Miracle Valley, Arizona

This is the Miracle Valley Bible Church and the site of a shootout between church members and law enforcement that occurred over ten years before the much more famous incident in Waco, Texas, involving the followers of David Koresh. Seeing this again today had me wondering what happened to the photos I took of this place a few years prior, and it turns out that I glossed right over them then because I was still deep in working on the blog posts that were detailing the last trip to Europe we had only returned from in the days prior to visiting Bisbee. Back then, in 2019, I had been invited onto the property by a gentleman who walked along with me, explained a few things about the site, and then allowed me to wander around and take photos. It’s about time for me to share those and get working on that post as soon as I’m done with documenting this weekend.

Miracle Valley, Arizona

This is what remains of the Palominas Trading Post in Hereford that at one time hosted a gas station back when gasoline was only $1.42 a gallon, and, according to the bleached sign on the west side of the building, this was also a diner. Google StreetView shows the place still open in 2008, but sometime shortly after that, the sign fell down, the newspaper and ice machine disappeared and it has since remained empty. Coldwell Banker has been trying to unload the 2.3 acres and 2,700 sqft of decrepit buildings out in the middle of nowhere for $219,000. How this is valued at more than $1000 is beyond my imagination.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

We had one more stop to make today before checking into the Gadsden Hotel down in Douglas and thought we should consider making a reservation for dinner just so they knew were desiring a table. We are at Whitewater Draw in McNeal, Arizona, where last year we saw tens of thousands of Sandhill Cranes; today, we see hundreds, but that’s good enough.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

The barn that had been standing near the parking lot on the left last year has since blown down. It was also where the WIFI router for the Crane Cam was housed, so we had no way of looking at the scene prior to our arrival and finding out if the cranes were even on hand. Sadly, the front desk at the Gadsden also didn’t know the status of the birds.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

There were lots of ducks plying the shallow waters but getting a photo of one of them was difficult, near impossible, as they had their heads submerged under the surface the majority of the time.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

The shadows should let you know that it’s now late in the day, while the inability to see a millimeter into the water suggests it might be turning into a mud puddle in the next week.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

Good thing we got a reservation for 7:00 p.m. as we had time to hang out and were rewarded with seeing murmurations of the yellow-headed blackbirds. While we came for the sandhill cranes, it was those little yellow-headed birds that stole the show today.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

There’s a speck on the left that is one of the few remaining cranes flying away from the lake today, but that’s not what we were focused on; it was the sky and the reflections on the surface of the water.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

With sunset happening at about 6:20 p.m., I thought we’d have enough time to reach Douglas since it was only about 30 minutes away, but as we made our way towards the parking area, we saw and heard that a very large party of those Yellow-headed Blackbirds were making a commotion to the south of where we’d been. There were thousands of them jostling for branch space on a section of the lake in the late-day shadows.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area in McNeal, Arizona

Only a tripod and an F/1.2 aperture lens would have possibly delivered a decent photo of those quick-moving little birds that were darting here and there before the thrush of hundreds of them would lift off simultaneously and readjust the position in ways we cannot begin to understand. Time to go south to our accommodation on the Mexican border.

Once we got to dinner, we were surprised to find that Cesar, who served us breakfast last year nearly to the day, was to be our server for dinner. When I saw him walk up, I remembered him immediately; it took him a solid 15 seconds to rebuild the memory. Cesar lives in Mexico and is still studying to be a nurse, just as he was last year. He’s since purchased a mirrorless camera and is getting deeper into photography.

Our room is a suite, and it’s spectacular. While my eyes are growing heavy as I try to get the more important impressions and details written down, Caroline has been luxuriating in the whirlpool in our room, and though I wish I could have been more prolific with the words, my eyes are falling shut as I push the computer to the side.

Going South, Again!

Desert south of Phoenix, Arizona

Bought a new car, check. Cleaned apartment, check. Filled the tank and picked up water, check. Time to get out of town not only to inaugurate the car for road trips, but we are also running out of February and haven’t made a proper getaway this month. Today, shortly as a matter of fact, this is being rectified. I’m currently at Starbucks, awaiting Caroline’s call to fetch her so we can get this show on the road.

This was all put together rather frantically last night in the minutes before we walked into a nearby theater to watch an anniversary showing of Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. Caroline suggested we could head down to Douglas, Arizona, for bird watching, a stay at the magnificent Gadsden Hotel, and to get in some hiking. What didn’t fly was her idea that we could leave Saturday morning; nope, we’ll leave Friday after work, grab a room in Tucson so we can have dinner at El Charro Steak & Del Rey, and then in the morning we, could hit Five Points Market & Restaurant if we are still around when they finally open at 8:00. Lucky us, El Charro had a high-top still available for reservation so we jumped for it. There are other things I’ve already put to the side we’ll be exploring, but I’ll wait to share those details until we are underway and out goofing off.

Well, I’m still sitting here longer than I thought I would and so I went hunting for breakfast alternatives as that 8:00 opening wasn’t sitting well with me. Then again, we might sleep in, and that could work out, but I discovered the Baja Cafe is a highly-rated place that opens at 6:00, so we might be better served to get things moving early. It’s nice to have options. Regarding options, AllTrails has been consulted, and if all goes well, we’ll venture out into at least a couple of hikes.

Sunset over Casa Grande, Arizona

Drats, while we were driving south on Interstate 10, we saw one of the famous Oscar Mayer Wienermobiles moving north. It was in sight and gone before we could snap a photo, but there it was joining the list of legendary things we’ve seen with our own eyes while out in America. Sadly, we were traveling in the opposite direction and checking their schedule; wherever that one was going, the Phoenix area was not on the list, so there was no chance of getting a Wiener Whistle this time.

Our luxury accommodations were not at the cheapest place in town; those would have been further south, and the one place priced at $38 a night was hard to pass up, but we situated ourselves as close to El Charro as budget would allow, meaning we were on the other side of the freeway at Quality Inn for the budget deal of only $80.

John Wise and Caroline Wise in Tucson, Arizona

Such a romantic time, just walking through downtown Tucson on our way to dinner. This was our third time this year getting something to eat at El Charro, and while it was great yet again, we agree that next time, we need to stretch out and try something different. Our meal started with their tableside guacamole and continued with Caroline choosing their vegan tamales while I opted for a bone-in ribeye. We also split an order of their extraordinary crispy Brussels sprouts.

On the way back to our car, we met an 18-year-old homeless girl and her dog. She was a lovely young lady who spoke of some victimization out here on the streets and told us she had been in foster care for some time. She didn’t ask for a thing which made it easy to give her a little something to feed herself and the dog unless another homeless person steals the money from her.

Once again, Caroline and I are reminded how fortunate we are.

Tucson to Miami

Five Points Market & Restaurant Tucson, Arizona

Oops, after that mammoth post about Kartchner from yesterday, I kind of forgot about this day for a month. Well, here I am in late February, finally getting around to it. After our amazing visit to Kartchner Caverns State Park, we spent the night in Tucson at the Downtown Clifton Hotel, a nice little boutique kind of hotel. While I forgot to mention it, in the last photo of the previous day, where Caroline is peering into the view, we were eating at Charro Steak & Del Rey, which was quite a bit better than most everything we can get in Phoenix. That place is highly recommended. Now, onto this day, starting with breakfast.

Five Points Market & Restaurant Tucson, Arizona

I found Five Points Market & Restaurant on several “Best Breakfast in Tucson” lists, and it was near our hotel. The huevos rancheros I had were an interesting interpretation of the classic dish, while Caroline opted for a vegan roasted beet sandwich. This little diverse café of optimism was nothing less than great; from the wonderful staff to the eclectic range of customers, the place is a gem. I’d like to point out what differentiates this from most places that serve a decent breakfast in the Phoenix area: we live in a city that apparently cherishes conformity and that includes restaurant patrons. There are two camps out for breakfast within a 20-mile radius of where we live: one is a clientele of laborers and hourly wage earners, and the other is snobbish rich conformist clones dressed in a narrow range of fashionable crap.

Cathedral of Saint Augustine Tucson, Arizona

Oh yeah, it’s Sunday, and we need to go to church.

Cathedral of Saint Augustine Tucson, Arizona

We are at the Cathedral of Saint Augustine, where mass held in Spanish is just winding down. Because I don’t speak Spanish, this has the old-fashioned flair of services being held in Latin, which was how it was done when I was a little boy going to church in Buffalo, New York, in the late 60s.

Mission San Xavier del Bac in Tucson, Arizona

But that wasn’t enough church for us, so we drove south so we could also visit the Mission San Xavier del Bac. Unfortunately, this was not a time for tourism, as I was informed matter-of-factly after I barged into the nave, camera in hand. Services were about to start. While I wasn’t ready for the word of god or entering heaven this morning, I was ready to take photos. This old church was founded back in 1692 by Father Eusebio Francisco Kino.

Mission San Xavier del Bac in Tucson, Arizona

A side chapel was open to tourism, though I did try to be respectful of those who wanted to say prayers before I leapt in to photograph all the holiness my camera could capture.

Tucson, Arizona

That was enough god in churches; now it was time to see if we could spot the almighty in nature.

View from Highway 77 in Arizona

Obviously, we did not take Interstate 10 north; nope, that wasn’t for us when Highway 77 allows us to travel in these kinds of environments.

View from Highway 77 in Arizona

Anyone can live among the trees; it takes a special kind of person to find the beauty of cacti and then go out, seek them, and hug them.

View from Highway 77 in Arizona

I know it might be difficult to see the snow-capped peaks to the left in this image, while the ones to the right should be easier to spot. I consulted Bing’s ChatGPT, and while obviously it might be wrong, it appears that Mt. Baldy is to the left and that the entire range is part of the White Mountains. If this is true, we are seeing across an area about 100 miles wide.

Miami, Arizona

I can’t say that we’ve ever seen water running through the Bloody Tanks Wash that is found here in Miami, Arizona, but here it is flowing today.

Miami, Arizona

We are in Miami and walking around as we wait for a table at Guayo’s El Rey Mexican restaurant.

Miami, Arizona

There are a few businesses holding on here along Sullivan Street that seem to have been the main street at one time before the “highway” bypassed it. How they remain open is a mystery. Maybe it’s related to the number of folks that, like us, end up waiting for a table while walking around town. As for lunch, Guayo’s never fails to satisfy unless, like today, they’ve run out of carne asada. This dissuaded me from trying something else as I had meat on my mind, and so off to Hodori in Mesa we drove.

Just east of Superior is Queen Creek Canyon we have failed to visit for a hike for over 20 years, and stopping to snag a photo is no easy feat, but today, we were driving slowly enough that we were able to catch a pullout and then crossed the road for this view which also allowed us to see the creek down below. Shadows on the creek side made for bad photos, and the boulders I really would like to get a nice photo of never work out either, so there’s this, our last stop before reentering the greater Phoenix area.

The Cavern

I suppose today is as good a day as any to crack open this new 100 Years of Oregon State Parks notebook (sitting on the table on the right) to jot down a thing or two about our brief two-ish-day out-and-back trip to the Tucson area. The main draw of this excursion is happening later today down in Benson, but we don’t have to be there until 4:30, so we are moving slowly. Slow to breakfast, slow to coffee, and slow to get out of Phoenix.

Because future-me might want to know: we had breakfast at Country Boys, a joint at the edge of the Square (a poor high-crime neighborhood of Phoenix) on the same corner as Food City (a discount grocer aimed at the Hispanic community). Caroline had her usual spinach scramble with home fries and a single slice of wheat toast while I went with my predictable pork chops, eggs over medium, hash browns, and English muffin. For jelly, we both agree that mixed fruit is best. Caroline doesn’t mind the hot drink they call coffee; I’d rather stick to water and wait until we have coffee elsewhere, such as we’re doing right now.

Stopping here at Starbucks was a compromise because nearby Serafina Coffee was just too busy. I hadn’t intended to handwrite anything here, but I thought it would be a good start to our trip, and then once down south, I’d continue with pen and paper. As it turned out, I never returned to what had been a pristine notebook. With my earbuds fit in snuggly to block whatever it is that Starbucks thinks we all want to listen to, I turned on Röyksopp’s latest, Profound Mysteries III, and got to work filling in details for an old series of blog posts from 2006. This particular 7-day journey to the Panhandle of Texas had been taken over the long 4th-of-July holiday and had only included 1 photo and about 200-350 words per day; such was the bandwidth limitations of those days.

We made the 180 miles south with time to spare before Kartchner Caverns State Park closed. Yep, you read that right, the park closes at 4:30 which coincides with the beginning time of our tour. We last visited Kartchner back in 2012 with Jutta in tow, and while we loved the cavern, we were greatly disappointed that photos weren’t allowed. For someone who has captured so much of our lives through these images and writings, it was a letdown. That’s being rectified this afternoon, and hopefully, Caroline’s enthusiasm will help me capture a few images worthy of sharing.

Beyond this door is another door; the two of them, in tandem, create a barrier between the outside world and the humid cavern we are here to experience. This honor to be allowed to photograph what lies in the dark beyond is only given on the third Saturday of the month, beginning at 4:30 and ending at 7:00. For $125 a person, the lights will come up, and we’ll have a solid two hours in the Big Room to photograph what we can.

The photo shoot starts on a bitter and difficult note; our cameras have fogged over due to the incredible 99% humidity and heat (70F/21C) in the cavern. My tripod is condensing water to the point that it is dripping, and before I get out of this cavern, every bit of my clothing will be wet. The exertion required to be still while shooting, focusing my gaze on the hunt for something that speaks to me, and then jockeying for position on the relatively narrow walkway had this feeling like a workout. When we were done, I had over 200 active minutes on my Fitbit, and my rib cage felt like I’d been boxing. It took my camera lenses about 15 minutes to acclimatize, though I was still frantically wiping away moisture for another 15 minutes. As for me, I never acclimatized. But enough of that, on to the images. This first one took an incredible amount of work to make presentable, meaning that I made a lot of adjustments in Adobe Lightroom to eliminate the bloom and slight out-of-focusness that came with foggy equipment. It also took time for my nerves to find calm as I had to overcome some panic because we were spending a considerable amount of money to be here for this rare opportunity.

Three lenses, a tripod, and a remote control to minimize camera shake had come in with me, but it soon became evident that I wouldn’t have enough time to capture a fraction of what I was seeing if I took the proper time to set up each shot. So I decided to throw any attempt at professionalism out the cavern door and get busy practicing the kind of recklessness that meant I might be lucky to capture, but a few usable images as the depth of field, focus, and amount of light captured could all suffer. I kept the camera attached to the tripod so I’d have at least one of its legs on the ground to help stabilize the camera, but I knew this was risky. The more I tried to grab a moment of remaining still, the heavier I was breathing in this hot and damp environment, which lent to the sense of getting a solid workout. In retrospect, I should have gone slower and focused on a small number of areas in an effort to take half a dozen perfect images instead of what I’ve ended up with over 600 photos shot and nearly 70 images under consideration for inclusion with this post.

The trick to choosing what will be included comes down to what I end up writing about. If I find something to say, the text will belong to that image, and so it stays. Regarding what looks like a slice of bacon someone attached to this rock ledge, this is cave bacon (the actual term) that forms as water flows over a sloped surface. Caroline and I have also been so fortunate to see ice bacon in Yellowstone. I should point out that, as far I understand things, caves actually do not have any speleothems. Underground formations are the distinguishing feature of caverns. Should cave bacon be called cavern bacon instead?

Like the gaping maw of an alien beast, albeit one that is missing the majority of its teeth aside from these few remaining nubs, it opens wide, salivating at the thought of taking one of us as a snack. Alas, it is frozen in time, possibly due to witnessing Medusa.

Not all soda straws are equal. Take these tubular stalactites: they are rather short examples of soda straws that never got very far, especially compared to the 21-foot straw found in the Throne Room (also here at Kartchner Cavern State Park). We won’t be visiting that cavern during this trip to Benson, but we are already booked for a photography tour in August that is supposed to get us into the Rotunda/Throne Rooms. By the way, I’m no cavern expert. These may also be the beginnings of stalactites and, therefore, not soda straws at all. Somewhere, sometime along life’s journey, I might gain certainty about what is what.

On our way into the cavern, the ranger guiding us pointed out some water pooling on the ground, which is a rarity unless it’s been raining recently, which it has been. This glistening column poking out of the shadows is obviously not an example of that, but it did have me thinking of the water, the 99% humidity, the couple of people who had water drip on them (a cave kiss), and the sound of water drops that occur out of sight but not out of earshot.

What don’t you see when you see it because there’s no reference or your current knowledge doesn’t allow you to recognize the unique characteristics of a possibly striking anomaly? There are things growing here that appear to defy gravity, considering that it is dripping water that forms so much of what we are here to see for ourselves. I feel that some of these shapes look like thorns or maybe worms, but they are, in fact, helictites. Helictites belong to the family of speleothems, which is the overall term for the various cavern formations that are created by mineral deposits. So, if you know what stalagmites and stalactites are, you already have a rough idea of what speleothems are, but what you may not know is just how many types of them exist. This photo is a closeup of a very small section of the image below.

When I’m in a cavern, my senses are overwhelmed by the gravity and extraordinary nature of everything around me. The smell, sound, light or lack of it, humidity, temperature, formations, and the scale of things are a lot to take in. Scanning the space and trying to look further requires every bit of attention one can muster, and still, you will never see everything. This is compounded by all that you know you will never see. There is no x-ray vision that allows you to witness groundwater seeping through cracks, the naked eye cannot perceive the minerals in drops of water, and even if we were to visit a living cavern yearly, we’d see nary a fraction of growth over the course of a lifetime. And then there’s the proverbial 800-pound gorilla in the room we absolutely fail to see when in such environments.

That giant invisible beast is the limestone that dissolved over time and formed the cavern in the first place. Then, rocks fell and changed the character of these evolving underground chambers. With the surrounding earth still full of minerals, they continue to be leached by the flow of water and slowly, over time, drip into these rooms and form these striking features. Still, you must stop and consider just what has been said here: the limestone dissolved, meaning that a sea with its corals and seashells was once here on this underground land. Obviously, it is long gone, and so are most signs of its presence. It’s as if you are seeing shadows of a distant past displayed, and now you have to find space in your perception to add this detail while simultaneously being overwhelmed by a universe with which you may not be all that familiar.

Accretions play an undeniable and essential role here as it is the slow buildup of minerals that is responsible for so much that will capture our interest during this visit. Take these curtains, some with a cave bacon-like appearance; what do they remind you of? Pardon me if you find this vulgar, but some of them appear labial or lip-like, while others remind me of gills. This then had me thinking about how stalactites reach out for what’s below while stalagmites grow from the ground up on their way to heights above their humble beginnings. There is no doubt that this process doesn’t happen in a fortnight but requires tens, hundreds, thousands, and possibly millions of years over time before we start to gather hints of what is forming. Isn’t nature showing us how, throughout its domain, the process of accretion has changed the shape and form of all things over the course of millions of years, including us humans? Our legs are our stalagmites, our fingers stalactites, and all the points, folds, and layers between form the scaffolding upon which we are suspended in order to move this living version of salts, minerals, water, and flesh around in a world of mysteries.

When I took this stalagmite photo, I didn’t recognize something near its base. From the path where I took up my position among others, it was nearly impossible to make out small details other than the fact that I was looking at a glistening formation. It wasn’t until I got home and assembled this shot that something stood out. I should point out that this isn’t a single photo; it’s been built by assembling a vertical panorama of 4 images through what is effectively a 300mm lens. The original 24-megapixel images combined to create a 66-megapixel giant weighing in at 207MB, but you only get to see a 542 x 950-pixel image that is a tiny 228KB. All the same, what I want to point out is the discoloration in the bottom third of the image; not the stick-like thing at the very bottom that I believe is broken soda straw but the thing above that. I’ve convinced myself that I’m looking at the skeleton of Myotis velifer, a.k.a. the common cave bat.

This is the third time I’m sharing a part of the same scene, but in the other photos, the travertine sculptures might look dry. Look closer, and you should be able to make out two distinct drops of water at the ends of the formations (the one in the background on the right is quite blurry). I’m guessing that they’ve already discharged their molecular passengers, adding another tick mark of accumulation during the ebb and flow of water finding its way in before continuing its journey further below.

Like arteries and blood vessels (or maybe more like nerve branches?), patterns are traced on the rock overhead, and like those things I reference, these tracks deliver something from one spot to another. Yet again, I see these comparisons to our own physiology, and I’m not quite done because as I stare at this ceiling above us, I’m now thinking about how it has bonded to the surface and how it’s almost like bone. One thought leads to another and soon I’m searching for what exactly bone is made of: it’s calcium phosphate called hydroxyapatite (HA). On the other hand, corals and bivalves (mussels, clams, and oysters) use calcium carbonate to build their shells, and with the addition of different proteins, shells can simultaneously have mother-of-pearl smooth interiors while having rough exteriors. At what point in the evolution of nature is the use of calcium stumbled upon, leading to calcium phosphate that allows for skeletons that can support land animals, which will require stronger frames due to the effects of gravity? The story of our emergence out of the chemical soup of nature seems so evident, and yet I meet people every day who still believe we are the creation of a munificent being that brought us into being, relatively distinct from nature.

I wonder what designs on the world cave-bacon would have if it were self-aware? Or did I just answer my own rhetorical question with the absurd idea that maybe many people wearing a human facade are metaphorically mobile slices of cave bacon, only slightly aware of what is potentially able to be spun from their minds and imagination if they were unleashed from the slavery of fear?

Instead of tossing insults at the faithful, I should return to cavern thoughts and continue reading about the formation of speleothems, travertine formations in Yellowstone, corals that swim with plankton before the sound of a reef calls them to settle down, the building of bones, or the doctor who only in 1988 saw the similarities shared both physically and molecularly between bones and coral, and just how connected it all is. You could spend your time far more frivolously than researching how a snail secretes calcium carbonate from an interior mantle that builds its shell, meaning accretions are collecting at the leading edge of its protective shell in a process similar to everything that is growing in this cavern…aside from the bacteria, insects, bats, and us of course.

Reading is the solution (as in chemistry, where a solution is the mixture of substances), words are the precipitate that emerges out of the solution, and knowledge is the accretion of the precipitate that, over time, might develop wisdom. What I just spoke of in metaphor regarding the minds of people is the chemical process of what’s building these formations. A solution of water and calcium carbonate transfers (precipitates) the dissolved calcium molecules to a stalactite, thus growing the formation (accretion). This process has been fully analyzed by scientists, and if I understand things correctly, it is used effectively when ingots are dipped in a crucible of molten silicon to grow the wafers that become computer chips used to build our phones, make our cars smarter, and drive the screen you are reading this on. For chip manufacturers, this is like making gold.

One can understand here that accretive processes can bring great value, monetarily or aesthetically, to things. Take gold, for example; one grain of the stuff is tiny and requires 15.4 grains to equal a single gram. As I write this, a grain of gold is worth about $4, which equals about $62 per gram or $1800 per ounce. If you had but two or three grains of gold, you’d certainly be the owner of gold, but you’d be far from rich with your $12 of wealth. Now, imagine you had a bag with 33 pounds of gold in it; that would be $1 million worth. Back to our minds, how many grains, grams, or ounces of intelligence have you accumulated? Are you happy knowing you have some, or do you understand that the more you collect, the farther your intellectual wealth may take you?

But I didn’t want this to be a chemistry or financial lesson; I’m more interested in the letters that make words, words that create sentences, brains that read stories, and minds that grow knowledge and the idea of the intellectual accretion metaphor I shared. There’s something I left out of that equation: time. A cavern, a dark, potentially dangerous chamber within our earth, has plenty of time. Nobody expects the cavern to be performant, social, or responsible to others; it is just a cavern of rocks, sediments, water, and maybe some bats. Our skulls are dark chambers with unknown potential that are too often deprived of time. Outside of youth, time is a luxury few have, and we even try to monopolize our children’s gaze in order to steal their time.

Time, while abundant and free for use by nature outside of us, is a rare find for humans. We occupy people’s moments with frivolity, nonsense, superstition, allegiances to brands, loyalty to celebrities, and manufactured identities in the form of commodities that are tradeable, easily adopted, and exchanged for the next viral flavor du jour. What we don’t ask of people is to invest in exploring the void of time by gazing into the potential found in deeper cognizance. We are, as a collective, afraid of what knowledge might do to the masses and so we have invented mechanisms to cheat people of experiencing the brief moment in time they’ll exist. Meanwhile, the helictites are left alone to take all the time in the world to grow their tendrils so they might surprise our eye one day, should we be so fortunate to witness them for ourselves.

I’m guessing not everyone thinks of tendrils or cilia when looking at cavern formations, but I am, likely in no small part due to an article I recently read that spoke of cilia (short microscopic hairlike structures) in cells and in the part of our brain called the striatum and what their function might be. It turns out that the scientific community long thought they were vestigial elements with functions lost to evolution. Not true; maybe it could be that they are essential to how we tell time, and in mice studies in which cilia were removed from their brains, the report said;

“While the mice could still maintain long-term memories and habitual or already-learned motor skills, various negative effects were observed after the cilia removal. The rodents proved unable to learn new motor tasks and showed repetitive motor behavior as well as noticeable delays in making decisions. Their ability to quickly recall location and orientation information, and their ability to filter out irrelevant environmental sensory information, were negatively affected.” Click here for reference.

Bear with me as I leap into pure conjecture, but I feel that this incredible luxury I’m afforded called time has allowed me to explore fragments of knowledge (precipitates) that accumulate and feed my imagination and sense of place in our world, and while they may end in folly, it is thoughts that are the building blocks of what humans have harnessed to move forward. In this sense, knowledge is the cilia that propel the cell (in my example, a person), and if those tendrils of thought are squashed by not allowing a mind to explore its environment, we march on a path of self-destruction. How many people can say they’ve had an adequate amount of freedom (time) to discover themselves outside the toil of labor and performance for the milieu they strive to entertain?

Yes, my analogy compares brains to travertine. We make efforts to protect caverns while not giving the same consideration to developing minds. With caverns, we wish to see their beauty continue to evolve and be made available to others, but from humans, we require their utility. The exception: we relish in the art, music, craft, and invention of those able to afford the freedom to explore what their deep observations might mean. It’s obvious that simply paying a fee to enter and enjoy a place of great complexity, history, and beauty asks nothing of our comprehension or imagination; it is a simple bargain for simple minds. It’s what we do afterward that is important: are we afforded the time to digest and consider the potential lessons, or must we immediately return to wasting time like prisoners crushing rocks? Unlike the formations in this cavern, my brain is not made of rock, while I remain uncertain of what is in the skulls of others.

Don’t worry; this lesson/lecture about chemistry/intelligence won’t continue forever. I did warn you early on that I have included many photos and that the number of images chosen determines how long this blog post will be. So far, I’ve enjoyed the exercise of studying the photos I brought out of Kartchner and seeing where the tendrils of my curiosity lead me. The good thing for people who pass over the pages I’ve assembled is that I have little to no expectation that anyone will have read much of anything here other than my wife, who reads most every word in an effort to save me from my own poverty of mind.

This brings me to symbiosis and iteration. It is as though a solution coursing through my mind left a precipitate in the form of the word iteration, and now I have to contend with how it relates to the previous accretion found in the word symbiosis. What if I cannot find a story that duly offers something meaningful to the suggestion that I was going to travel in that direction? It doesn’t really matter, does it? We do not question Van Gogh’s use of blue at the center of a sunflower. But as I’m not Van Gogh, I should make an attempt to use this palette of symbiosis and iteration to create my own kind of flower.

Hanging from the rocks above, these seemingly frozen-in-stone icicles called stalactites are secure in their foundation. They are here due to the symbiotic relationship found in an environment conducive to building such long-term alliances. Not content with one single stalactite, soda straw, or helictite, thousands of iterations of mostly identical formations spring out of the space that at one time was nothing but barren rock. Once again, I turn to compare the cavern with people: I live in a symbiotic space between my head, my environment, and my rock of a best friend, my wife. I am a stalactite clinging to her while she offers me a place to iterate accretions of a mind that is rapidly producing variations of a theme, looking for the perfect form.

Thus, I’m afforded the opportunity to be in places like this and then later, somewhere else, dwell and examine what flowing through me. On rare occasions, I might stumble into the umpteenth iteration of saying what at first blush might be more of the same, but over the course of time, I may discover something just a little different – the branch I’ve been searching for. But how would I ever dare encounter my mind crashing into anything new or unknown if my hamster wheel kept me locked into a tightly confined intellectual space of the kind of repetition the majority of people live within? We must take the mental turn and, like these nearly parallel helictites traveling in contravention of the rules of gravitational force, go the way others cannot expect or maybe even understand.

Even if we must stand alone, we are still in a symbiotic relationship with the world around us. No matter what our place on Earth and in society, we’ll always be in nature. Regarding my social environment, I too often feel that I stand alone in isolation on a complicated pretext, striving to feel invigorated at the precipice of potentialities I must struggle to comprehend. This damning demand to be constantly peeling back the myriad layers of meaning thrusts me into the difficult dimension of effectively keeping others at a distance due to my refusal to cultivate the skills and interests that would allow me to have something in common with them. If I could redefine milieu to mean something akin to “One’s place in the environment of potentialities,” then I’d say the milieu I exist in is the best I could hope for, and if that new definition included those I’ve taken inspiration from as opposed to those people who’ve been physically part of the fabric of society I’ve emerged from, then again, I’d be happily acknowledging the milieu from which I came.

Momentum carried me this far, but not so far that I can claim I’ve traveled through even half the photos before hitting the juncture where all of a sudden, I’m wondering: “Where to next?” Maybe I should “Jackson Pollock” my mind with a couple of splashes of random words? Yes, I’m using Jackson Pollock’s name as a verb because I believe he painted by throwing paint at a canvas with the hope art would appear; maybe that’s not exactly true. Anyway, there is no such thing as random words coming from my mind. I could ask someone sitting nearby to offer up a couple of words to attempt the random acquisition of inspiration for what comes next, but I’m not ready for golf and latte to be tossed into the mix.

Carrot root cake with cream cheese frosting is how I choose to see this cave shield. It turns out that these formations are a bit of a mystery, even for scientists, with regard to how they are formed. Even more of a mystery to me is how the toy breastplate formation with one long nipple pointing upwards took form atop the shield; there is kind of a chicken-and-egg story going on here. Oh, right, I haven’t mentioned yet that, looking at egg shells, we see calcium carbonate at work, and regarding the chicken/egg reference, you can let your friends and family know that eggs entered the fossil record about 340 million years ago while chickens have only been on the planet about 58,000 years. Just as our ancestors bred wolves, turning them into dogs, I wonder what bird we used to create the chicken. Wouldn’t you know it? A search lets me know it likely came from a bird called Gallus Gallus, also known as the red junglefowl. None of this helps us understand cave shields, but who cares? The picture of one is worth the proverbial 1,000 words.

This is not the bottom of a cave shield, though the way the photos are sequenced, I couldn’t blame someone for that perception. It does appear that this image is a continuation of the one above. I can’t remember seeing another shield here in the Big Room, though as I study some of the photos below, I believe I see hints of older shields that are consumed by the ongoing growth process of the cavern formations. I bring this up as I think back to our one and only visit to Lehman Cave in the Great Basin National Park in Nevada, which has more than 500 cave shields in its system. This also reminds me that it’s been 20 years since that visit, and though we were just in the Great Basin this past September, we were there for hiking and visiting the bristlecone pine trees. Considering the poor quality of the photos I took at Lehman back then and that I am suffering from acute cavern fever right now, maybe it’s time to plan a return visit.

There are currently 32 more photos below this one, while there are 29 cavern images above it. I’ve already removed seven photos along the way to lighten my load, but many remain. I’ve been working on these words for three days now and might need to come up for air, which bothers me as I don’t feel I can really progress on other things before this looming responsibility is taken out of draft status and published. Stopping to take inventory of where I’m at is sobering and simultaneously illuminating the silly nature of what I’m trying to do, as I’m well aware that a dozen of the best images I captured would suffice for this post instead of 62 and who really has the time to read even a fraction of the more than 5,000 words I’ve already written? No matter, I promise you more words and while more photos could be pared, I will persevere as that is the job of nature to never quit.

Looking at the complex of various types of formations, our senses are overwhelmed trying to tease out significant details. Is one thing greater to look at than another? There’s no telling while we stand there gawking. Not quite slack-jawed but in astonishment all the same, we scanned the cracks, crevices, highlights, and shadows, searching this impossible-to-comprehend mass for that one detail that is the essence of the whole. Isn’t this idea of reducing the whole to a simple single attribute what we too often do with people outside of the cave of our cultural conditioning?

Finally, the horror of it all strikes me hard. We are looking at the melting exoskeletons of a trillion corals, clams, snails, oysters, mussels, and maybe even the giant nautiloids that are now extinct. I can’t imagine what it would look like if there was a vast cemetery of humans and the calcium from their bones had leached out of their graves to form such sights in the depths below. Fortunately, this thought did not occur to me while down in this cavern, but I suppose I’ll now see other caverns through a similar lens.

But wait, there’s more. Whoever thinks about the fact that marble is metamorphosed limestone? Yep, heat and pressure-treated exoskeletons that form a polishable surface you can prepare your food on. Considering that we might prepare our meals on what was at one time the corpses of other life creates a peculiar picture. Hey, don’t stop there, John. Look at chalk, which is similar to limestone: it is made of the exoskeletons of plankton, meaning that when I was called upon to write on a blackboard as a child, I was scraping the remains of previously living creatures on the wall for the sadistic pleasure of an adult who never told me of the cruel act I was performing. Had enough? I don’t think so; I opened a rabbit hole looking for information about calcium-carbonate-based rocks, and I’m not done. It turns out that frequently, there are bands of other rocks within chalk, specifically flint. Well, it turns out that flint often originates from the skeletons of sponges; these bones are called sponge spicules. We really are a death cult with our ancestors killing animals using spears made of fossilized sponges, butchering them on tables of nautiloid and snail shells, and cooking them on fires started with those sponges. Finally, we learned to cook with their crushed bones in the form of lime, use it to treat the soil for growing food, clean our water, and exploit it for the construction of our buildings.

So there we are, standing on graves, conquerors of all. Proverbial kings of the world, yet we may be too shortsighted to understand our rare but fortunate position, and instead of trying to comprehend this incredible symbiotic relationship with nature, we aim to conquer and destroy it. If and when we are successful and win the extermination of humanity, a new creature will likely rise in our shadow, finding itself burrowing through the tunnels of the earth to walk on our melting bones, buildings, machines, and destruction to revel in their oblique view of what they too may fail to understand while admiring the abstract beauty of a lifeform that was lost to time. The cycle of destruction and ultimate stupidity will continue.

Here we are, deep in the distillate of billions of years of life and evolution, under the excretory process of earth, digesting the life that has fed it as we remain mostly oblivious to the intricacies lying behind the nature we are here to witness. What do we leave the cavern with? What might we have learned? Or are we only playing witness to the incomprehensible exhibition of time that exceeds the common person’s ability to tease the slightest meaning from a complexity billions of years in the making?

These are hallowed grounds, as are the beaches, forest trails, mountains, skies, seas, and all points of the planet in between. There are no less than 27 people around me at the moment I write this. I struggle to find a common thread with them. I feel no kinship as I cannot believe they respect the enormity of what they fail to see and hear. Do they ever concern themselves about how they use their environment, or is it all somehow owed to them? What parts of their minds do they explore with the vigilance they deploy to make money or display their status? How has their religion made them so impervious to the magnanimity of the earth upon which they exist while piously giving credit for their selfishness to some unseen entity in an abstract universe called heaven? I should try to understand the reason for their myopia and allow it to absolve them from grasping what lies behind the veil of their inability to see and learn. Considering their limited perspective, it must simply be easier to exist within the rules and norms of those who promise salvation and riches.

Within our death cult, everything is already dead, including many people’s empathy and ability to find insight. While empathy and insight might have been in abundance in another age, we now treat the world and each other as something to exploit and deplete, yet many would proclaim to respect the holiest of holies. Stop a second and consider: would you act the same if Jesus, the Prophet Muhammad, Buddha, or Brahma offered you the earth as a child? Would you still be able to behave as the destroyer, exploiter, and uncompassionate caretaker of such a precious entity? Would you allow others to harm God’s offspring? For those of you devout souls, how do you reconcile your ignorance, hate, and oblivious natures of seeing God in this creation? And please consider I am not one of you. I’m a non-believer, and yet I can be easily awed by the enormity of the responsibility to tread lightly and celebrate this rare offering of life and all that it entails in what should be everyone’s precious abode, meaning everything we find on this beautiful planet that is our collective home.

When might the flow of consciousness reach the sea of enlightenment? Or is it destined to evaporate in a drought of our own imaginations that never grasped where we are and what we are? Each successive word fills a space I don’t believe exists anymore because I can’t really find what I want to share next. Yet, beyond my self-doubt, letters fall into place, triggered by fingers compelled to continue placing words upon an electronic page. I cannot write to anyone else but myself. I’m the first to see what my mind wants to show me, and though I may feel frustrated in what I think is lacking, the compulsion to continue suggests I just keep going, keep on flowing, and see where the river of thought takes me on my journey into the discovery of time that brings me to the next moment. A diamond might exist for at least a billion years buried in our earth before eyes fall upon it, enchanted by its specularity. These words need not be seen by others today, tomorrow, or the day after, but I must continue to put my word machine under great pressure if I’m ever to produce a single tiny literary diamond.

Words, time, and images shape your mind and possibly feed your soul, though I also think those same things may strip your soul bare when others are able to use you as a tool of harm. In that sense, life imitates the machine with its mindless program of grinding through the task for which it was built. Without the ability to find discernment, people feel threatened by being outside the center of conformity; the malleable mind is easily influenced by one’s own ego along with the oversized ego of a charismatic who tells the disciple how to be and how to find their place. Often in the case of religion, and now with our form of capitalism, those who guide others are likely manipulating empty vessels who are afraid to stand on their own. Bringing the initiate into the fold helps strip them of any unique characteristics and so they become a pliable mass able to perform the bidding of a larger system. When that system lies about things that would normally be in contradiction to reason or one’s own best interest, they are easily misled into performing the bidding of those who wouldn’t dirty their own hands, thus allowing the fool to gain favor with those who know better. The system perpetuates itself in this way, and the congregation grows. These newly minted tools can now be instructed to go forth and destroy.

Destroy the hopes and ambitions of others, contaminate them with the poison of a culture bent on blind repetition, and you can effectively stunt the growth of a society. This is the road we’ve chosen for a large swath of our population, not all, but far too many. Those who desire to elevate the downtrodden masses are as marginalized as those who would protect the environment, save an endangered species, or ask others to consider how they overconsume. Meanwhile, the accretive process within the cavern continues its slow drip toward perfecting its work. Hopefully, the same work continues within the minds and imaginations of those who dare to challenge convention and are willing to risk standing alone.

This is the Fried Egg stalagmite. It stands alone, the only one of its kind within the 2.5 miles of passages discovered here in Kartchner Caverns State Park. As a matter of fact, the entirety of the caverns is so appealing to visitors for the very reason that one’s eyes may fall upon extraordinarily unique forms while simultaneously being surrounded by much that is relatively uniform. We, humans, are typically enchanted by the novel and intricate unless we’ve been conditioned to fear those unknown places we’ve been told are the hiding places of bad things, demons, subversion, or horrors waiting to pounce on the person. There are too many examples to share where people find fear, from the simple things like camping and an unqualified aversion for certain animals and insects to politics and anxiety wrought forward that there are those who will steal the only life you’ve ever known.

In rereading some of this, I’ve noticed a glaring omission because I fail to acknowledge the role of abundance and scarcity. I write this from the perspective of someone existing in abundance, including this constant thread through my writing, the incredible amount of time I’m able to indulge in. I concede that when existence is shrouded in economic, food, and security scarcity, much of what I write about is rendered silly. Those basic human needs are too often on a margin that is out of reach, but there are many of us who have the means to consider the options under which we live and survive, and yet we fail to do anything about our own myopia with regards to improving others’ circumstances.

Maybe you start to pick up on my struggle to continue this screed, the tedium that is befalling my well-worn story of lamenting that all too often I feel that I stand in isolation. I, too, would prefer to be a part of the fabric lost in a tapestry of others celebrating the solemn beauty of life that surrounds us, even when in the bowels of the earth. Fortunately, the ones who were there that evening are intensely curious and willing to invest in the opportunity to see farther, to try to understand the inexplicable, and escape the occasional inclination to be sessile. To be fixed in one place is what sessile means, and while I can accept our inability to always be on the move, I find it unreasonable to do the same when it comes to human minds frozen in place like this mountain of cavern formations.

The craftier/greedier among us could tell their tools/subjects that these rocks contain riches beyond their wildest dreams, and if they descend upon these tunnels to bring everything back to the surface with them, a share of that wealth extracted will be their reward. With this activity of performing their bidding, the simple-minded would then be able to argue that this was evidence that they are not, in fact, “frozen in place” but are demonstrating their ability to go out and capture that which benefits them, even at the expense of what is destroyed in the name of gathering. I’d like to put forth that that type of human in this age should no longer be considered sentient because they lack a certain self-awareness or empathy before the face of nature.

To not affect change implies we’ve lost momentum and are as still as all that is before my camera lens in this cavern. We do not want to affect change because we are terrified of what we ourselves might lose by disturbing the status quo. With that all-gripping fear brought on by the threat of change, we become intellectually sessile; our brains perform a mean simulation of the barnacle, the tree, or a coral. The next step is to die in place with our minds long ago having started seeping out of our skulls, liquified by their lack of challenge. Maybe you’ve even conceded defeat and placed your hopes of a better future in your children, gee-whiz, nothing like the lazy pleasure of abdicating the heavy lifting to a generation you failed to inspire as you traveled the path of least resistance. Do you think me heavy-handed, boring, redundant, gratuitously obtuse from time to time? Then you might be picking up on my state of frustration that we humans have, by and large, devolved back into cave dwellers and yet have lost the ability to paint on the walls, tell stories, and dance for each other. As modern troglodytes, the opinions falling out of stupid heads informed by nothing of any real value hurts me deeply. I’d be remiss if I didn’t state it bluntly: it will be the demise of our species.

Quiet and solitude are where I’m heading next, though I’ll have to ratchet the cacophony of my lament down a notch and find a way to bring the ruckus of words to something of a low roar. I’ll try speaking using a soft voice and hushed tones. To compliment my thinking while distilling words, I’m tuning into Brian Eno’s newest work, titled Foreverandevernomore. While chamomile tea will not be part of the method employed, calming breaths should help guide the fingers into pleasantries. Minutes pass as I lose writing focus, drifting into the lyrical content of the track There Were Bells; these charming musings of the man writing to my own heart might prove a bit too distracting. On second thought, what better place for silence to emerge from than the writing of nothing?

More than two dozen drops of water hang in various stages of contemplation, each accumulating the weight required to be captured by the gravity that will launch them into their next journey. Patiently, they wait as what else is there to do? For a time unfathomable to me, this water has traveled across eons, possibly since before the planet formed. It only started condensing on our cooling earth about 3.8 billion years ago. There’s a great likelihood this water was once part of another creature, an ancient plant, or a million-year-old glacier that broke apart a million years ago before seeping through the rocks until reaching this point to glimmer before my eyes before disappearing back into the earth for a billion years or more. How crazy is it that I was on hand during the age when we were capable of understanding such things?

What about you, John? Have you been here before? To look at my midriff, it might be assumed that the pattern found in cave bacon is part of the recipe of DNA that creates the fat on my frame. While I’m taking poetic license regarding the science of living beings, there’s a high probability that the minerals my body is using to construct and rebuild itself were once part of a cavern, a field, a mountain, a crinoid, the nose of a dinosaur, or ejecta from a volcano. All of everything had to precede our arrival, including the expanse of time, in order for us to be here contemplating abstractions or distractions during the short lives we’ve been afforded to discover all that we might find on these journeys.

I find it healthy to indulge in distractions and will argue that a life without distraction is detrimental to the spirit of what it means to be a person on a path toward self-realization. Abstractions and flights of fancy are healthy detours into potentialities, not necessarily the fantasy type where we only wish things to be true, but those lines of thought that take us on epic adventures into knowledge we’d not previously encountered, which can lead us into discovery.

There will always be information hidden in the shadows, and that’s likely preferable as it keeps mystery alive. When everything is laid bare and unadorned before you, the entanglement of imagination to discover the unseen and unknown is stripped away. Maybe a big mistake of us humans is to believe that the ultimate secrets that hold all true meaning are kept by a god figure that may or may not be in one’s future, in which case, should we fail to peel back the layers of our curiosity to discover what we can find in our lifetimes, larger truths and reality may forever elude us. The fear of embarking on that search might just be why a majority of people are using the bandage of easily acquired entertainment to hide the wound of a broken sense of need to know. Is it really so easy to turn on the game, sit down to another binge-watching marathon, or give an ear to wild, half-crazed laments fueled by the paranoid rants of talking heads meant to incense you? Where is your internal dialog about the beauty of silence, shadows, mystery, love, and the questions of what it all means?

Love. It’s here; it not only traveled into the cavern with me, but it’s also right here in front of our faces, locked in everything we are looking at. What is love, after all? Love is familiarity, quiet, stillness, the long gaze, learning, curiosity, lack of judgment regarding the other, seeing the intrinsic beauty that others may fail to appreciate, and it is patience. If you find yourself impatient to take time in the quiet moments, if you are bored when stillness surrounds you, if things unfamiliar to you test your patience demanding you get fast answers to the hows and whys before you threaten to bounce, you likely act the same way in relationships. Urgency driven by scarcity is a wound inflicted upon people that convinces them they’ll miss out on the things they might desire. Living under this threat has conditioned society to exist on the plane of FOMO – Fear Of Missing Out. When fear shows its face in relationships, the risk levels go up, and often they go up exponentially, rising to violence, mental and/or physical. Fear induces the fight or flight response, either catapulting the individual into a full confrontational stance or ensuring they are gone before another moment passes, thus extracting themselves from the situation.

This brings us back to symbiosis and how it fails to establish a firm hold at the beginning of a relationship. In education, we fail to bring the child/teen/adult to a level of understanding of any real benefit from learning. They are surrounded by the artifacts of our collective stupidity, as demonstrated in the conversations heard in public, the dialog found in our movies and television, and the juvenile antics of our politicians. We ask learners to imagine a world where their education will find meaning and purpose, though entertainment is constantly acting as bait with the promise of fun. For those of us isolated from the popular crowd, loneliness is not a comfortable option, and so we turn to cultivate relationships with education, art, music, invention, and other creative endeavors in order to bring us into a kind of symbiosis with the histories and personalities of those who brought us those crafts. Our understanding grows as we go forward and become aware that our curiosity is out of sync with the larger collective who never found pleasure in education and learning. These are the first building blocks where the emotions allow for symbiosis to accrete, grow, and strengthen.

What comes out of that process is a radical new derivation as it relates to appearance and personality. That a person requires stimulation, sharing, and curiosity along with a social environment that fosters bonds with others should be knowledge strong at its root. Growth in a complex of potentiality cannot appear among clones; this is the artifice of the superficial machinations of a marketing/brand-based economy trying to convince consumers that salvation and joy can be found/purchased in things that have no relationship to love, individualism, and the unique character derived from a solid foundation of learning, love, and curiosity.

Take this tobacco-looking accretion emerging from the rocks above it, some might blurt out that this looks like shit compared to the shiny carrot-hued formations just below, but if that same dullard were told that one ounce of the stuff was worth a million dollars, they’d immediately see its intrinsic beauty. Isn’t this how we, far too frequently, consider others in our society? We talk from the perspective of knowing little and as long as we have an adequate distance of anonymity to ensure the wrong people don’t hear our musings of stupidity as we cast aspersions. I believe we hide behind descriptions that refer to this simplemindedness as gossip.

The person, place, thing, or pet that is loved in a sense loves you back the most when you are able to love and respect it for what it is without having the need to alter its fundamental nature. While I’m the first to admit an abhorrence of anthropomorphism by suggesting a rock might love you back, let’s play an imagination game.  If one could see in this structure that the travertine is smiling at them and offering thanks for their appreciation, would they so easily take an axe to it, chopping it to bits to find something of value within? This is what so many people metaphorically do to one another, and more than likely, it’s due to fear that the other person will develop in a way that will ultimately exclude the person who desires their love. How many times have we witnessed this for ourselves?

So hang your anger, bias, disdain, lack of understanding, intolerance, and the conditioning of a toxic role on the door of your outside self and open the windows of your perception to see the things you have so far failed to understand. Reawaken the innocence and desire for surprise, which is a key part of discovering the symbiotic self that wants to find unknown and potentially scary things. We are not always allowed to know all the answers, as mysteries keep us coming back to find what we obviously missed before. Just stop and think about it: it is the constant growth, discovery, and wonder of your toddlers that enchant you every day, it is the surprising nature and antics of your pets that endear them to you, and sometimes, it is your own delight once you’ve stepped outside your self-imposed boundaries that give you hope that you might be at a turning point.

From here, we return to iteration. Like the instructions on shampoo recommend: lather, rinse, repeat. Except we change it to love, discover, and grow. Of course, who am I to deny anyone their misery of, despair and rage? But when the beast shows us its fangs in the form of a deadly weapon and exercises its dissatisfaction on anyone who shows the slightest bit of fear, we must accept that this is part of the price of our laissez-faire attitude which gives people the freedom to be as stupid, angry, and broken as they choose to be or that the system conditions them to be.

True, the spectacle of abhorrent violence, intolerance, and aberrant behavior offers us something to gossip about to fill the moments of boredom, but is this really what our species desires? If I were so inclined, I could easily enter a conversation with nearly anyone around me at this moment about nonsensical subjects such as a shooting in Monterey Park, California, the price of eggs, perceptions regarding vaccines, or the veracity of someone’s favorite news source, but I likely cannot discuss the inherent beauty found in my explorations of the world around me. A world without violence, injustice, and mindless fodder is just not interesting; we want big drama, big lies, higher body counts, and proof that “the system” is against us. I find this to be a strange choice of priorities when one has the ability to avert their gaze from such things and chooses to see the inverted world found in a drop of water that reflects the magic found in the extraordinary.

Good thing that life has proven to be resilient and that even after five known major extinction events over the past 500 million years, new life has sprung up. Should we ultimately prove too incompetent to have handled the place we’ve taken in nature, it’s at least reassuring to know that the water of life will continue to flow, new things will emerge, and if some future species is as fortunate as we were, I hope that they’ll recognize the beauty and rarity of having sprung into existence and work to cherish not only each other but the lands and waters that support them.

Inside our heads, we begin life with a nearly empty cavern called the mind. We are constantly visited by culture (our family) that will allow life’s experience and language to grow formations that others can marvel at in their beauty. That growth doesn’t stop with a single giant stalactite/monolith of some specialized knowledge; we are an entanglement of depths with treasures hidden in the shadows that might only be found by others exploring not only the world around them but also trying to understand one another. You will not find any of this in a video game, a TV show, the Marvel Universe, your tuned car, or a big house. Love is not your allegiance to a slogan on your hat, knowledge doesn’t fit in yoga pants, and compassion is not found behind the gate of your fortress or in the lies propagated for popularity with the in-crowd. Truly valuable things are found when we realize the void within is missing our consideration of what we are afraid to see, hear, taste, touch, read, and explore.

I do not say you will find answers; as a matter of fact, you might only find more questions and wonder why the void seems to expand. Understand that, like the universe expanding into the infinite, the mind and one’s curiosity might have their own infinite plane of existence that doesn’t stop at your comfort zone.

As we near the end of this two-hour indulgence in Kartchner Cavern and upon seeing this cave bacon mask of horror, I’m yet again brought back to that oft-repeated quote by German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche: “Battle not with monsters, lest ye become a monster, and if you gaze into the abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.” I might change this to, “As society battles with the monster of loneliness and uncertainty, accept that we are creating new monsters, and when we gaze into the empty pit of a mind, the emptiness of life will creep in to destroy all we might cherish.” Meaning, we must venture outward and inward to search for experiences that bridge the chasms we are destined to confront.

When I started this post, I thought my path would take me into a narrative of the beauty found in the cavern and that I’d reflect on our great fortune to be here on one of the half-dozen opportunities to photograph the Big Room per year, but instead, I found myself digging into myself once again. If I’m lucky, the past week has allowed what has flowed through my head to take some kind of form or other. I may never know if I’ve been building stalactites, stalagmites, helictites, soda straws, shields, curtains, cave bacon, masks, monsters, or what, but I can hope that these words act as tiny plankton and will settle down in some random places to contribute to the corals that help support things bigger than the nearly invisible elements that build giant structures humans are in awe of.

Pictorially, this is likely my longest blog post, though I can’t be certain, and I don’t have an efficient means to figure that out. As for word count, I’ve written one post that is longer, though it was actually an amalgamation of many bits and pieces of things I wrote over a 36-day period in Germany a couple of years ago. This is the first post where I endeavored to write for a ridiculous number of images I found enchanting and too difficult to choose the best ones, so I went for it, and now here I am at the end. Not quite the literal end, but the end of the cavern side of things as though this might be a good place to quit; one does not live on words and ideas alone and dinner was in our plans.

Caroline Wise in Tucson, Arizona

Caroline, what the hell are you doing trying to crawl into my photo? Is this the inner troglodyte coming out of you after such an immersive experience in the cave? I mean, we are here for a shared tomahawk steak that might have certain characteristics of a caveman meal, but this is not flattering. True, I find it funny that you are able to make such faces, meaning you’ve graduated into being a fully-fledged American, and in accordance with what I wrote above, you are fulfilling this idea of keeping the mystery alive, so maybe this is where I should close this down with one more exclamation of how much I love my partner in discovery.