Jump Start

Approaching Hoover Dam in Northwest Arizona at sunset.

It is not Friday when I write this post detailing our Friday departure. I am writing it roughly 48 hours before we depart from Caroline’s office, signaling our leaving Arizona for a drive into Nevada on our way to Oregon. Avoiding major highways means we’ll require almost 24 hours of driving time, which only adds a couple of hours to what would have been needed if we chose to drive up the monotonous Interstate 5 through the middle of California. Instead, our route will bring us to Pahrump, Nevada, about an hour outside of Las Vegas tonight, and if we could give Sin City a wider berth, we’d opt for that, but in this sparsely populated Western United States, they didn’t build roads for old curmudgeons to bypass the places they find abhorrent, maybe even aberrant.

What, you don’t like Vegas, you ask? Nope. Everything about that city feels antiquated, simulated, and lacking in anything that has authenticity. When I required human-made spectacles to inspire me, and I reveled in our extravagance to create the absurd, I too indulged for the sake of my amazement, but I reached a point where I could no longer understand this peculiarity to work so hard against nature to splurge on senses trained to desire more of more. More food, more light, more water, more opportunities to part with money, dignity, and brain cells. This stationary cruise ship in the desert caters to the overly indulgent who desire to feast on excess, and well, that just reminds me of a much younger version of my stupid self who believed at that time that satisfying every whim was some kind of key to enlightenment and unshackling myself from conformity. I was an idiot and likely am still mostly an idiot, but reminders of that are unwelcome, so I steer clear of this outpost in the middle of nowhere.

Sitting here at Starbucks this Wednesday afternoon, wondering what else I can write that will not give away details about Saturday and Sunday when I’m expecting to spend some of our travel time capturing images of our route, I’m mostly looking around at the various people coming and going while my earbuds are in, and I’m listening to the piano of Hania Rani, Jóhann Jóhannsson, and Ólafur Arnalds. I’m trying to avoid just packing up and leaving as I really don’t have anything pressing I need to tend to. Tomorrow, though, is another story, as I’ll be finishing up cleaning, packing, and considering what details were missed, which don’t really matter as I’ll still have Friday until late afternoon to correct anything that requires my attention. After more than 1,480 days of these kinds of travels, you’d think we have it all figured out, and basically, we do.

One other thing to share here, and that’s the reason I’m trying to get this headstart on the writing: we’ll be gone for 30 days, but after we get home, we leave 72 hours later for a visit to the International Folk Art Market (IFAM) in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Two and a half weeks after that, we’ll be back out in Duncan, Arizona, and finally, three weeks after that, a quite long trip starts again. What I’m getting at, there will be no time to catch up on writing between these excursions, meaning I’ll be doing my best to remain current documenting our travels while not neglecting that major writing project that must also share my attention. Looking through this filter, I can only wonder if I’m biting off more than I can chew, as 71 days of travel over the next 113 days will likely demand I write about 100,000 words or more to detail our adventures. Heck, that doesn’t even include the more than 20,000 photos I’ll likely take while we explore those corners of the world. Honestly, the crazy demands sound exciting to me, and I look forward to the challenge.

Going Places

Dall-E generated image

The wheels are in motion. The planning is finished. Arrangements and reservations are in the proverbial bag and soon, we’ll be on the road. In my previous post, I mentioned a late summer vacation, but what I didn’t share is that we are about to embark on a hybrid getaway that initially didn’t require much planning at all. While our Eastern U.S. and Canadian adventures had me toiling over maps, lodgings, things to do, places to go, where to eat, ferry schedules, flights, and the absolute best way to spend our time while underway, this upcoming journey that starts in just a couple of days, leads us into the very familiar Pacific Northwest of the Oregon Coast.

Back in April, Caroline and I were discussing how in winter of 2022 we sacrificed a work-remote opportunity because her company required her to remain present for an important project. Well, here in the spring of 2024, we thought a window was opening that might allow us to capture that almost forgotten wish. I didn’t like the exorbitant prices I was finding for summer at Airbnb and VRBO and was about to put this idea on pause until winter when the rates are a lot cheaper until I thought about reaching out to someone we know who lives on the central coast of Oregon. Being a local up there, maybe this person would know something that I was missing. It turned out that she and her husband were heading to France for a month in June, and that we could have their place. While we would have to delay our plan for a bit more than a month, this would also save us from some of the hot days of the Phoenix summer (starting tomorrow, we are supposed to have our first temperature of over 110 degrees, actually 112 degrees or 44 Celsius).

Our visits to the Oregon Coast began in March 2002 on a crazy five-day trip that took us through Nevada into Idaho before joining the Columbia River between Oregon and Washington for a drive out to the coast. From Astoria, Oregon, we enjoyed a brief but incredibly scenic road trip along the Pacific Ocean before hitting the Redwoods of California and returning to Arizona. That was enough to cement a love affair with the state of Oregon; so much so that in the summer of 2002, we explored Crater Lake National Park and then, around Thanksgiving in November, we visited Bend and Mount Hood on our way to Washington. Since that time, we’ve returned to Oregon nearly 20 more times. What I’m trying to get to is what I shared above: this trip didn’t require much planning as with our month of lodging fixed, we pretty much know how and where we can spend our time.

The thing is, I wasn’t ready to return to intensive writing quite yet, and in my effort to occupy myself, I started considering other things, specifically where we might go hiking and what we would do about a meal plan while we were up there. Using AllTrails, I identified nearly 70 potential hikes and walks within a three-hour drive south or a two-hour drive north. As for our meal plan, Caroline had brought up our last visit to Oregon a couple of years ago during which we stopped at a new grocery in Lincoln City called El Torito Meat Market. We’d shared a spatchcocked grilled chicken on Thanksgiving Day thanks to this amazing Mexican grocery store. Feeling inspired, I started considering what ingredients I might be able to buy there and how I could have those things influence our meals while on the coast.

I came up with 14 recipes of dishes I’ve never prepared before including Cochinita Pibil, Pepian de Pollo, Machaca, Pollo en Jocón, and Rajas con Crema. We’ll be buying and cooking with things such as chorizo, cecina, chuleton, nopales, epazote, cotija cheese, cream Oaxaquena, jicama, poblano and guajillo chilies, chayote, jalapenos, banana leaves, and tomatillos among a bunch of other things.

So, while this month away will be a remote-working situation, our days will start with a two-hour walk along the sea or in the forest just offshore before I make us a Mexican-influenced breakfast. Part of Caroline’s lunch hour break will be spent with at least another mile-long walk on a nearby beach and after her work day, we’ll drive out along the coast to take in the sun setting over the ocean, flying a kite, bird watching, or hiking up to an overlook to change our perspective of a place we’ve likely seen dozens of times before. To us, this doesn’t sound like work is involved at all, it’s more like a luxury vacation with some minor responsibilities.

Memorial Day 2024

Caroline Wise in Duncan, Arizona

Talk about laziness, and you’ll see that some of my blog posts this year are a perfect reflection of that. Not that I’m lazy per se (though that is open for interpretation), but the fact that I am consolidating some of my posts, particularly visits out to Duncan, Arizona, could be perceived as me being a bit unmotivated in the writing department. The reason for this on my previous outings to Duncan was that my focus was not on traveling and photography but precisely on this act of writing. Our drive east for this year’s long Memorial Day weekend was to spend time not only with Caroline but also to capture something rare, time of doing close to nothing. That nothing included making a minimal effort in the photography department and subsequently in bringing this post together.

Duncan, Arizona

“Nothing”, though, is not in my DNA, and so something must be done.  When I started writing this post here on Sunday morning, I was apparently not doing “nothing”. Even this moment of jotting down thoughts followed a three-mile walk out along the Gila River and over some old, abandoned farmland in the floodplain.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Back on Friday when we arrived, our hosts were nowhere to be found. They were in neighboring New Mexico visiting family, comfortable knowing that we are self-sufficient and would be fine by our lonesome in their place. In the garden at dusk, the enchantment of dozens of bats swooping in to nab insects was a welcome surprise with one approaching close enough for us to catch the sound of its vocalization as opposed to its ultrasonic echolocation that obviously wouldn’t be heard by human ears. On the other hand, later that evening our eyes were able to take in the dark sky, enjoying the stars that bats do not regard as the light is too faint to help guide their navigation. Mind you, I make no claim of being an expert on bats and am relying on Claude Opus and Mistral Large for my information, and please, do not conflate that my use of AI for research could imply that it helps with my writing; I take full credit for that.

Great Blue Heron in Duncan, Arizona

Saturday rolled around with a morning walk along the northeast side of the Gila River, where our interest was drawn in by the many songs heard from the birds that call the riparian area home. The first bird we spotted was one I’d seen on my previous visit and had no idea what it was, but Caroline has Cornell University’s app Merlin installed which allows her to easily identify birds. It was a vermillion flycatcher. High up in a tree, she saw a great blue heron, and when she pointed it out, I thought she was pointing to the nearby common black hawk in a neighboring tree before I, too, caught sight of the heron.

Turning on the audio capture part of the Merlin app, she showed me that we were listening to the calls of yellow warblers, Gila woodpeckers, northern cardinals, yellow-breasted chats, and the ever-present Gambel quails. By the next day, Sunday, I too now had Merlin installed, and on the southwest side of the Gila River, we added willow flycatchers, white-winged doves, song sparrows, and common yellowthroats to the list of birds heard but not always seen.

Methodist Church in Duncan, Arizona

After Saturday’s walk and following breakfast at the always adequate Ranch House Restaurant, while walking back to our artful lodgings at the Simpson Hotel, we met Minister Sherry Brady of the Duncan United Methodist Church who was holding a yard sale in front of the church she presides over. With a small congregation of about ten old souls, she’s optimistic that with some care, cleanup, and renovation work, she can grow the flock. We were invited into the old church, a simple and unadorned place of worship. From the yard sale, I picked up an old coffee cup with the nickname “Topper” on one side of the cup while on the other side, Floyd Johnson was penciled in before the cup was glazed.

On Sunday, I went back to the church before services got underway and was able to talk with parishioner Marilyn Thorne, who knew Floyd and was able to make out his indecipherable last name for me. Floyd worked at the Duncan High School as a janitor and occasional bus driver and had served the U.S. military in Korea. So, in honor of Memorial Day, though Floyd didn’t die there, and this should really be a Veterans Day gesture, I’m taking this moment to recognize this local resident of the area; he actually lived in the small community just east of Duncan called Franklin.

Caroline Wise at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Back to the early-summer, lush gardens of the Simpson Hotel, Caroline fastened her backstrap loom to a rock wall in front of a bench where she sat for the next hours watching the trees sway in the heavy wind, which she thought were reminiscent of the trees in the Miyazaki animated film, My Neighbor Totoro and busied herself weaving and listening to the birds. From time to time, Iskander the tabby cat would come to visit Caroline for head rubs. Meanwhile, I took to working out some details regarding a cross-country road trip taking place in August and September while simultaneously trying to convince myself it was still part of my agenda of nothingness.

Blue death-feigning beetle in Duncan, Arizona

On Saturday, when mid-day arrived our hosts arrived too, not that this motivated us to shift our positions of slothfulness, we just continued on our trajectory of participation-inertia as we aimed to maintain nullity. Things stayed this way until the blood pooling in our rear ends began coagulating, a common measure old people use to judge the effectiveness of their laziness. This could only mean one of two things: head into the kitchen for some ice cream or go for a walk. Seeing how we were not at home, not that we have ice cream there either, we took a walk to the River’s Roadside Cafe and Bakery for coffee. I know, you likely thought I was going to say we went for ice cream, but we were already past that. We’d stopped in for a lunch of burritos earlier, and Caroline had dessert in the form of a scoop of triple chocolate and one of strawberry to help celebrate the Memorial Day Weekend, so who in their right mind would have even more ice cream just a few hours later?

Note: the photo above is of the blue death-feigning beetle, its taxonomic name is Asbolus verrucosus.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Other mundane stuff happened along the way, though dinner with Deborah and Clayton that would never be considered mundane also happened and closed out the day. Then, here on Sunday morning the wake, walk, eat, write, eat routine got underway once more. This brings me to this point where I’m about to take a break from writing so we can mosey up the street to the Ranch House Restaurant for a mid-day meal unless, like yesterday, something from the River’s Roadside joint piques our interest. Come to think about it, they are closed.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

For the sense of time, it is the morning of Memorial Day Monday as I reopen what at the moment will have been a draft, though as you read this, it’s obviously a post of some sort. Last night was an evening out of the ordinary: while likely quite mundane to most people, I still feel compelled to share this, not necessarily with readers, but with future Caroline and John. We had dinner with Deborah and Clayton again, except this time we watched a movie. The movie was The Wonder Boys about a man lost in writing and indecisive, in part due to the need to pen something better than his first successful novel and in part due to his weed habit that’s made him compulsive and indulgent. While it was congruent with my effort to do nothing, watching a movie while eating and doing so to the very end of the film while out and away felt peculiar. I should add that this is not something we do at home, so it’s outside of all forms of my normal unless I refer back to my thirties, three decades ago.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Before the evening’s festivities, there was the late afternoon garden indulgence that included a slow walk, a meander actually, that had me searching for details of things overlooked. It’s bound to happen when we move through an environment and are uncertain of the amount of time we can allocate to finding what is present, that we first see the big picture, and subsequently, should lingerability be available, we’ll look into the granularity of what was initially unseen. The surprise comes during follow-up visits when you are left wondering how you missed so much in the first and second encounters. Imagine my chagrin that on my umpteenth visit to the Simpson Hotel and Garden, I’m still finding new enchantments hidden among the many layers that exist here.

Train in Duncan, Arizona

This brings us back to Monday and this mid-morning session of capturing thoughts in the parlor as the aromas of breakfast waft through the hotel and I’m refueled as far as caffeine is concerned. At 6:00, we were out the front door for a three-mile walk that was well-timed with the passing of the twice-daily train that travels through Duncan on its way to and from the Morenci Copper Mine north of here. Up a nearby hill for a walk over town looking into the distance on a slightly chilly start to the day was a great reminder to appreciate these cooler moments that down in Phoenix are already over.

Caroline Wise at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

To close out this post/update: between these two visits to Duncan, I was working out some travel details regarding a late summer vacation that will take us to points in the Eastern United States and the Atlantic Provinces of Canada. Actually, not just some details but rather intricate plans that come with being able to invest nearly 60 hours investigating options that will guide our first-ever visits to Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick. For Caroline, the vacation will begin when she lands in Buffalo, New York, where I’ll pick her up with our car, and it will come to a close in Portland, Maine, from where she’ll be flying home. As for what our exact plan looks like between those dates and my road trip that bookends our time out that way, you’ll have to wait for the blog posts that will offer insights into our adventure. One thing I am willing to share: we’ll be paying homage to one of Caroline’s favorite foods with a stop at the Canadian Potato Museum in O’Leary, Prince Edward Island.

Map of America – 2024

Map of America 2024

It’s been six years since I last updated our map here, and comparing that older image with this one, you’d be hard-pressed to find what new roads we’ve added. East of the 100th meridian, which is right about the exact middle of the U.S., has been poorly traveled by Caroline and I, and while we’d like to rectify those omissions, getting out into those places is a seriously laborious task. To reach the middle, we need to drive 1,000 miles into America requiring about 15 hours before things get underway. Of course, we could fly to somewhere, such as Dallas, Texas, for nearly $1,000, rent a car for about $1,000 for two weeks, or drive our own car and spend about $75 on gas for each direction, though we’d lose a lot of time. The idea of exploring areas on the map we’ve not seen in the South feels like a bit of a roll of the dice should we decide to commit more than $5,000 to wander places not known as having brilliant natural or historical destinations, aside from Civil War sites. If we opt for the northeast, we’d be inclined to hit some old favorites that would distract us from visiting the unknown, which has always been a large part of the joy we find in traveling.

While prices for airfare, car rentals, and hotels have tripled in the past 15 years, incomes have not. At this point, the question becomes whether it is better to throw that $5,000 and $5,000 more to spend three weeks in Europe instead of two weeks on American roads, where we may or may not find significance along the way. For $5,000, we can fly into Mexico City, Mexico, and have a luxurious adventure exploring ancient history and amazing food throughout the region while still coming home with $1,000 in our pocket. We also feel that we are excluding ourselves from many of the National Parks in America as more of them become overcrowded and require reservations. Just consider the Dry Tortugas in the Gulf of Mexico west of the Florida Keys: its campsites are sold out through March 2025. Travel no longer feels as easy as it once did.

Adieu Eclipse Adventure

Mt. Graham in Safford, Arizona

After our lengthy ten-hour drive yesterday, we arrived back in Duncan, Arizona, quite late last night. With a heap of gratitude for Deborah and Clayton, we checked right back into the room we had left Saturday morning. With them out for vacation until the 14th, starting just a couple of hours after our departure, they had told us that our room at the Simpson Hotel would be left just the way we had left it and that if we wanted to stay in it again on our way home, we were welcome to it. For free! This would work out perfectly because, from here, we were only about 3.5 hours from home, allowing Caroline to get to work at a respectable hour and turn a PTO day (Personal Time Off) back in for a vacation later this year.

In all the years driving past Mt. Graham, neither of us could remember seeing lenticular clouds over the summit, and as I spotted the standing water in a field of freshly planted cotton, the setting was fixed to be captured. Fifteen minutes later, there were no signs of clouds over the mountains. Those with keen eyes can spot the observatory up there; it’s a small white dot to the right of the highest peak.

As I was about to close out this post, I was thinking about our next journey out of Phoenix, which, according to our itinerary, doesn’t happen until July when we are visiting Santa Fe, New Mexico, and that just doesn’t feel right. So, I brought up a map and gave some thoughts about May and June, and I’m coming up empty-handed. Such is the dilemma of those who prefer to travel away from the summer horde.

Incomprehensible Beauty

Devils River off Highway 163 in West Texas

Well before dawn, we left our motel and stopped at a gas station for a coffee, as that’s what there was for coffee in Ozona, Texas. This, though, was a fortuitous moment as we found a lucky penny we would come to be certain changed our day. The idea behind our early departure was to beat the horde we were sure would trek south into the Del Rio, Brackettville, and Uvalde areas. Well, here we are on our way south, and the horde has not materialized. Maybe the poor weather forecast kiboshed the plans of some of those 42 million people who were expected to venture out for this full eclipse that is the last one visible over the U.S. for the next 26 years.

Highway 163 in West Texas

A couple of hours later, we arrived at a coffee shop in Del Rio, Texas, less than five miles from Ciudad Acuña, Mexico, and about two hours from the start of the solar eclipse. We’ve driven 887 miles (1,427km) across the deserts of Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas to be here only to arrive under a seriously overcast sky with weather reports warning of severe storms in the area later today. Obviously, the sky in the photo here is not overcast, it was taken while still driving south to Del Rio.

With nothing else to do, we took up a perch at a table, with me busy playing the roles of both cantankerous Muppets Waldorf and Statler. Per my normal mode of operation, I’m grading my fellow human beings. Exactly how well they fit into that narrow definition regarding human characteristics is up for debate. First point of observation: the women here have not mastered the art of skin-tight booty shorts/leggings: you should either rock them commando-style or wear a thong because lechers such as myself do not want to see your panty lines digging deep into the girths you are shoving into your second skin. Next point, desert-sand-tan leather boots of one sort or other appear to be de rigueur for Texans unless you are a visitor from Florida, in which case you wear sandals. Californians appear to prefer running shoes.

There is certainly a nice diversity out here in West Texas and not a single person practicing their right to open-carry a weapon. Speaking of weapons, I’d briefly considered a side trip to Uvalde for some morbid tourism, but with nearly 900 miles ahead of us as soon as the totality passes, we’ll need to hit speeds approaching 150 miles per hour (240 km/h) if we are to make it back to Phoenix this evening before 9:00. Pardon me, not being in Germany, Google is estimating that we’ll need almost 14 hours to get home, leaving no time to take in a mass shooting site.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Amistad Reservoir in Del Rio, Texas

Note the overcast sky behind us here at the Amistad National Recreation Area that was chosen as our viewing spot for the totality because it’s just a little west of Del Rio and significantly further west of Bracketville, our original destination. The weather forecast showed that there was going to be some breaking up of the storm clouds starting in the west, and as long we were still in the path of the totality, we figured it was better to be happy with a little more than two minutes of the full eclipse rather than risk seeing none of it. As for the selfie, I was supposed to share one of us during the eclipse, in the dark, but it turned out that having been rendered into blubbering crying babies by the sun in eclipse, or was it the shadow of the moon, that teary-eyed image I shot is not fit for posting here if I want to maintain my illusion of manhood.

Caroline Wise at Amistad Reservoir in Del Rio, Texas

How lucky was our misfortune of having our destination shift at the last minute? By coming to the Diablo East section of the Amistad Reservoir, the park service was on hand to inform the public and help them see the eclipse, but it was this special Eclipse Explorer Junior Ranger badge that made everything worth it. Even had we never seen the sun itself, just adding such a rare badge to the collection would have meant the world to Caroline.

Eclipse as seen from Del Rio, Texas

It was about 12:15, when we noticed the moon starting to creep over the sun for the first time. The clouds were streaming overhead, and while this might look bleak, the photos I took with my DSLR without any filtering were turning out better with some cloud cover than those with clearer skies. Because I left Arizona with the idea that taking photos of the eclipse was the thing I was least interested in, I had not brought my 70-200mm lens, ND filter, and tripod so I could better focus on the matter at hand rather than witnessing it through my camera.

Eclipse as seen from Del Rio, Texas

With more than an hour between the start of the eclipse and totality, I had plenty of time to get a shot here and there, many shots actually, though most have ended up in the digital dustbin of history, never to be seen again. By this time, the excitement from the adjoining parking area, where the majority of star chasers were positioned, was palpable, with cheers going up every few minutes as the moon crept closer to blotting out the light of the giant hot disk in the sky.

Eclipse as seen from Del Rio, Texas

Something unexpected happened on the way to falling under the full shadow of the moon, known as the totality; as the moon moved into position, the gravitational disturbance of some deep-seated primordial senses lingering in our bones punched the two of us, doubling us over in a stream of tears. Nothing bad, mind you; it wasn’t that we were seeing God and the second coming of his son ignoring our presence as if to notify us that we’d be dwelling in hell, nope, nothing like that. We were seriously overwhelmed by the incomprehensible beauty of watching the living prominence of the sun pulse and breathe in a manner never previously witnessed by either of us.

Eclipse as seen from Del Rio, Texas

Not having been prepared for the gargantuan emotional outpouring that seized us, all of a sudden, I was gripped by the wish to have the most exquisite record of this event so I might better reference the images and always remember where the universe took me today. As desperately as I desired a perfect artifact of this solar phenomenon, my senses never stopped telling me to focus on looking at the totality as I will likely never have the opportunity again to stare at the sun without filtered glasses and not damage my eyesight or go blind.

While staring at this incredible sight, one has to remember to also look around as it truly became dark all around us, so dark in fact that the lights of the parking lot had turned on. The orange glow on the horizon was also a sight to see, and while I tried taking photos of that beautiful view, the settings on my camera were set for taking pictures of the sun, and I couldn’t figure out how to change anything while enraptured in the state of weeping ecstasy I was gripped by. Take note, I wasn’t alone in this emotional outpouring; maybe we were even triggering each other to cry harder as we felt the others’ empathy and understanding of such a momentous event.

There were two moments of feeling that it couldn’t get any better: the first was at the beginning, when a seriously heavy amount of clouds moved in to block all sight of the eclipse and we thought we’d seen all of the totality we’d be afforded. Satisfied, we started looking around again at the general area until a roar went up from the large group that drew our attention back to the sun. The impenetrable cloud cover must have exploded because the sky was as clear as anyone could have dreamed of, we saw stars in the distance in the middle of the day.

Eclipse as seen from Del Rio, Texas

The next moment of ultimate wow was the fabled diamond ring which I only barely captured here with my phone. This image does zero justice to what was seen with the naked eye. At this point, there was a kind of threat of madness that should we stare any longer into the absolutely ecstatic image of what was playing out in the sky, we’d simply have to dissolve from the intensity of it all. To say we were shaken would be an understatement. Never before in all of our travels, both geographically and psychedelically influenced, have either of us been taken to such an emotionally giddy place of euphoria. A week later, while writing these words, I can still feel the sting of my eyes as I recollect the fervor of sensations coursing through my heart and mind, struggling to make sense of such a rarity of experience.

Looking north from Interstate 10 east of El Paso, Texas

For 3 minutes and 28 seconds, Caroline and I were lost under the eclipse, hardly able to think, reduced to nothing but feeling. We left the area about 10 minutes after the totality with tears still threatening to spill from eyes full of the immensity of that incomprehensible beauty, and for the next 45 minutes driving up the road, the knot in our throat remained ever-present. In hindsight, it could have only worked out this fortunately because of that lucky penny found at the start of our day. As for the rest of the day, nothing else mattered.