The Surrealism Of It All

Sunrise on Highway 138 in California

The act of going on vacation, which I termed Remote Self-Isolation, was fraught with tensions due to the escalating outbreaks and fears that with the colder weather and holiday season that pulls families together, America would experience a massive uptick in COVID-19 infections. For the month prior to our departure, I was never sure if our road trip to the Oregon coast was going to take place. Travel restrictions, lodging cancellations, or lock-down orders were never far from my mind.

When we finally started moving west towards the California border, each mile felt extraordinary because we were actually traveling for pleasure during a pandemic. It felt counter-intuitive. We made it to Fresno, California, over 600 miles from home, back on the first day. I was still incredulous that we’d be allowed to take a room in a hotel, as though we’d be questioned about our travel intents. Maybe if our reason for being on the road wasn’t strong enough, we’d be denied lodging and so I was prepared with some concocted nonsense story just in case we were questioned. That story was never well thought out as I know it wasn’t reasonable that we’d be asked anything as truckers and people moving homes had continued traveling the whole time, but that’s where nine months of self-isolation had put a part of my brain.

Entering Oregon, the place was at once familiar and, at the same time, different. Traffic was lighter; that was probably the first thing you would notice. Restaurants were closed or had prominent signs up telling passers-by that they were still doing takeout or food to go. Sure, we’d known this from our bubble in Phoenix. but this was the distant coast, and for some reason, it felt abruptly different. All the same, this was vacation, and if it only lasted a day or two, we’d try to extract all we could from this opportunity to be out. Staying at locations longer, intentionally booking places with kitchens so we could prepare the majority of our meals to choosing our lodgings, considering that we’d be effectively sheltering in place, so we’d better be prepared to entertain ourselves. While it seemed absurd that we should be doing this during a pandemic, things went smashingly well.

But then it all goes and gets wrapped in the punctuation of surrealism as, about 100 miles from home, our car, with us in it, was hit by someone with no interest in dealing with slowing down and confronting what they had just done. We were already traveling at about 75 – 80 mph when a car came out of nowhere and drifted into our lane doing about 100 mph. That car collided with us (or gently bumped us, I suppose) as they quickly recovered and took off even faster while we continued miraculously forward. It took a second for us to wrap our shocked minds around what had just occurred and catapulted us into adrenalized emotional shock. I hit the gas as our car seemed okay to give chase and try to record the license plate. However, that was futile because the other driver was adamant that today was not the day to swap insurance info. I hit 95 mph and started to realize the other person was not, in fact, going to pull over, so I called 911. I learned for the first time that just talking to the phone in my pocket with, “Okay, Google, call 911,” worked to call some 911 network that quickly transferred me to the Arizona Department of Public Safety, our version of the Highway Patrol. At this point, when I started explaining what happened and what we knew about the other driver, it started to really dawn on me that we’d been in an accident. Emotions started to seep in, and I knew the chase was over and that we needed to pull over; the car was in some state of post-crash status, and me getting wrecked, too, now.

Hit and run of our Kia in the Arizona Desert

We pulled off at Exit 81, the Salome Road offramp. Stepping out of the car we couldn’t fathom how little damage there was to the car, considering how the cars collided.

The DPS officer showed up about an hour after the initial call; we made our report and drove home. The time between was good for the two of us, as it allowed the panic to subside and a sense of normal to return. Getting home, we went through the routine of starting laundry, draining the ice chest, putting stuff away, etc. We’d been home a few hours by the time the last effects of the shock were subsiding. It was then that the whole thing truly seemed unreal, “Had we really been the victims of a hit-and-run accident just before lunch today?” We’d just finished nearly three weeks of travels during what amounts to a plague with people masked up, hurt, and in fear. Food from restaurants is taken home or eaten right in the car in a parking lot. Marijuana can be delivered or picked up in the drive-thru. Limits on how many people are allowed in businesses are in effect, and in some cases, you are greeted outdoors when a person in gloves and a mask comes out to ask what you want to buy. We rarely spoke to anyone, and checking into our lodgings, we never saw anyone other than the couple of times we stayed at hotels. The surrealism of it all was astonishing.

Now stop and think about just how strange the entire phenomenon of traveling is as you course over the surface of the earth at 80 mph. Or maybe you are aloft in the sky, 5 miles over the roads and sea, speeding along at 575 mph before arriving at your destination. A room awaits you with the amenities you desire, most likely with heating and air-conditioning, don’t forget the TV and wifi, but if you are renting a house, you can expect the number of bedrooms you reserved along with a kitchen stocked with the utensils and instruments you are likely familiar with at home. You are at this new location with your smartphone at your disposal, so you start live streaming right away to a friend or relative, possibly thousands of miles away, sharing in your amazement.

We take things for granted, we define our normal by what we are currently doing and we rarely stop to reflect on how peculiar it all is. In some way, we are all playing in madness by doing what we do, unaware of how random it is that we try to create patterns of behavior out of the chaos of any number of directions our lives could be lived. We’ve recently been witnessing a political apparatus in Washington D.C. consume itself with the rationalization that, because things were being done the way they were, that must be the way they need to be in order for things to work. Confronted with a pandemic, we strangely throw our hands up and feign ignorance about what we should be doing when to this lay-person it was obvious that we needed to “Stop, drop and roll,” metaphorically speaking.

In the last few weeks, we ventured out to try and capture a small part of our former normal: vacationing in Oregon. An ongoing pandemic hinted this was insane, but we could justify it by explaining that our current normal had grown stale and that we needed a break from the routine. We’d driven Interstate 10, possibly hundreds of times by now. Our normal was simply driving it; this time, reality crashed into us, reminding Caroline and me that the two bipeds in the steel cage were moving 26 times our normal walking speed while a virus that doesn’t know borders was potentially present in places our eyesight doesn’t have the capability to see. How crazy is all this?

Our limited senses need the occasional reboot, and 2020 is certainly a year where slowly everyone on our planet is getting it that life has variables that are not always predictable. Relative stability has been a luxury for many in the West since the end of World War II, but prior to that, humanity was living every year in 2020.

All of this begs the question, “Why are we not striving to do our best at making life more meaningful and equipping each other with knowledge and tools to have better lives?”

The only answer I’ve been able to come up with is that a downtrodden class of people, unable to question their circumstances, are being led by a ruling class of the privileged, afraid to ask many questions or alter paradigms out of fear of losing their wealthy positions. We are stuck in a primitive situation unable to budge from our Stone Age roots. Yeah, I know that calling us Stone Age is a bit dramatic, so maybe readers would prefer I reference that we are closer to our Bronze Age ancestors. But why would I be so condescending when humanity has made such incredible technological strides?

A subset of humanity has made those inventions, building upon advancements discovered by an even smaller group of highly intelligent creators. While many have benefited from the dispersion of tools of convenience and shelter offered to the masses, we individuals are further out of touch with life survival skills, personal sustainability skills, or even interests not ordained by mass culture that is actually created by a very small population of literate and technologically adept individuals. The average person cannot farm, make cloth, build a home, treat a wound, hunt, fish, write coherently, read at a respectable level, and most importantly, think.

Big claim, huh? If we are thinking creatures, then why is the misery bestowed upon so many? In my own way, I try to think about many things, many esoteric things that don’t impact my own life such as where do newts sleep. Are human networking topologies too rigid, will I ever really understand Gilles Deleuze, and does my knowledge of our environment offer me any insight I could share and inspire someone here on this blog with? In that thinking, I find it repugnant that we have “leaders” who are not, in fact, leaders. Former President Obama nor current President Trump ever took Caroline and me to Oregon or Europe; neither of them is responsible for our passports or our curiosity about places and cultures that inspire our imaginations. They only tend to be distractions for some and maybe attempt for the general betterment of society as a whole, but it is ultimately up to the population at large to want those changes. When a large segment of the population is in fear due to their Stone Age intellect and lack of ability to harness today’s tools, they slip further back into a type of primitivism that is so out of step with where we should be as a society. This begins to appear surrealistic. We are becoming the warped characters and distortions found on the artist’s canvas while not recognizing our role on this stage of absurdity. Collectively, we are the shadow figures on a cave wall, unaware of the others in our proximity. Mentally, we are deficient troglodytes pretending to have a grasp on what any of this is.

Today’s outcome could have been very different. The hit-and-run driver didn’t spin us around, didn’t push us off the road into the gravel, didn’t rear-end us, or shoot us off the freeway. With both vehicles traveling rapidly, we kissed and parted company. Repairing our car will cost us at least $1000, as that’s our deductible. Strangely, this doesn’t seem so horrible considering what the circumstances could have been, and in the end, it offers me something to think about and share nearly 2,000 words inspired by it.

But there’s a larger question that arises out of this episode: At what point in our lives are we shocked by the intellectual equivalent of a hit-and-run driver that leaves us aware that we haven’t recognized our own ignorance speeding along and risking our lives? In being hit, I was jarred by the complacency that I was driving just fine, and while the accident was in no way my fault, it does illuminate that no matter how aware you hope to be, there is always something that comes out of your blindspot and demands you see your limitations. When we come to understand that although we believed we knew how things looked and operated, but are in an instant challenged by our perception of reality, our state of being confounded is what surrealism strove to show us. We don’t really understand all angles, and some things are not as they appear. Do you really know what’s around the corner, or are you just hoping that things will go on as they always have?

Nature is Love

Manzanita Beach in Oregon

There’s so much to see on this coast and so many things we’ve seen before, but even more remains elusive. We return again and again and are never really certain about the deeper quality of things we try to study, but our curiosity brings us back in the hopes of finding the key to the mystery we are trying to comprehend. There are many pieces competing for our attention as we are torn between sky, sea, creatures, plants, sounds, weather, smells, and the myriad of sensual pleasures that caress senses hungry to explore the unknown. We never really gain familiarity.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on Manzanita Beach in Oregon

What is it about familiarity that dulls that desire? We live in an amazing place in its own right, the Sonoran Desert, and yet we don’t wander with the same intensity as we do when outside our ordinary. I say this, but do I really believe it? We are charmed by the birds, cactus, lizards, smell of the wet desert, thunderstorms, arid wide open spaces, exposed jagged rocks, and the bursts of color that come and go. Maybe it’s the barbaric state of the metropolis we live in, with its labyrinth of cinder block fences isolating angry and pretentious people. How does money sterilize a place to remove the free flow of happiness and joy? To explore an environment unencumbered by a grim understanding of the meaninglessness of its inhabitants is a luxury, and so, visiting places we are unfamiliar with gains precious bandwidth within our sense organs to absorb it all. Being an outsider has its advantages.

Manzanita Beach in Oregon

Our lives are too short to have them intertwined with the nonsense of others who are selling you their meaning or, worse, their appearance. Allowing one’s self to dive deeper within is hampered by the superficial curiosity of other people’s dramas, politics, and celebrity. The famous become the worst exemplars of this parasitic culture: The more we are interested in them, the richer and more powerful they become. They continually strive to draw the spotlight on themselves with ever more absurd acts of intellectual barbarity. While not on par with the spectacle of the Roman Circus with fights to the death, the modern gladiators battle one another, producing madness in the audience.

Manzanita Beach in Oregon

Trees, mushrooms, newts, and crashing waves will not enrage you. Lichen, billowy clouds, raindrops, and grand vistas only cost you time to fall in love with them, allowing you to revel in what they might mean to you. Never will you need to raise a fist at the vibrancy of moss-draped over rocks and on the branches of trees. Nature, in some ways, is free, and it’s always unbiased. We humans with our egos are afraid we are missing out on something amongst ourselves because we’ve been conditioned to desire wealth and fame. Knowledge from witnessing the natural world cannot become personal wealth as the age of Humboldt is dead. Instead of feeding the mind and imagination, we yearn for adoration as we strive to do something that will have us recognized. This is not being human; it is being a shallow facade that places us in the insect kingdom or worse.

Manzanita Beach in Oregon

What does it mean to enrich our sense of wonder by walking along the ocean, watching the light change over and over again as clouds and the sun compete for our attention? The jellyfish on the shore is a corpse when we encounter it, but we can imagine it floating effortlessly in the current while it was still alive. The grasses up on the dunes might be invasive, but they look soft and warm to our eyes as they gently outline the contours of the landThese visions of beauty join a wealth of gathered knowledge and memories. They are the currency of venturing out and exploring. I should point out that this form of cash is also collected when going within because books, too, bring us into our imagination and help paint the way we see the world around us.

Manzanita Beach in Oregon

These pieces of nature make a composite whole, the scale of which only grows larger the more we see of it. Try to reconcile just a fraction of what you might see in a lifetime, and you’ll be hardpressed to understand the tiniest of elements, their relationships lost in infinite connections. Trying to understand the atoms in the universe, how each of them relates to others, and what roles they play in every molecule they belong to is a fool’s task, so it is trying to comprehend this 338 miles (544km) of Oregon coastline. And yet, we keep returning, trying to figure out something profound. What our intentions really are, we cannot easily explain.

Manzanita Beach in Oregon

We are running out of time up here, and as usual, we will make a last-minute race to points along the way, thinking that if we could just pull those things together in some comprehensive manner, they would succinctly give us the keys to the universe and we could start to focus on something else. Maybe our investment with so much time up here is giving us some familiarity, but deep understanding will always remain elusive as our quest is too far beyond our grasp to ever satisfy this yearning.

Manzanita Beach in Oregon

Today should be the day when I concede defeat that I might ever know Nature. But if I cannot know Nature, how might I ever truly know my place in it? Are we wasting our precious lives chasing the dreams others place in our heads so they might live their own dreams of having it all? The newt gives me nothing in return for my appreciation. On the contrary, it gives me everything that is intangibly unimportant in our current world. The same goes for the rest of my life I witness on these all-too-brief journeys into coastal Oregon. Yet I leave far wealthier and happier for having shared this time within this massive ecosystem of love. I’m claiming it is love, as I derive as much joy from it as I do in the most romantically intense moments with my wife.

Nehalem River in Oregon

So, when we are outside of Nature, are we outside of love? Of course, we are never truly outside of Nature in the literal sense, but we are in the intellectual constructs of a media-driven circus that has monopolized far too many people’s identities and souls. In this sense, we are in our own simulation or, let’s say, the simulation of creators and capitalists. Ask yourself, who really built the filters of how you perceive your world? Do you dare challenge your role, your god, your career, your biases, or what entertains you?

Nedonna Beach between Rockaway Beach and Nehalem Bay, Oregon

I know the discomfort of challenging all of those things, and it comes with a good dose of isolation. Ask any nerd who grapples with identity and self-perception how difficult this pandemic-induced self-isolation is, and by and large, I’m certain they will tell you the same thing, “I’ve been living like this most of my life.” It’s not that we ever wanted isolated lives, but we’ve been outside the embrace of love for so long that sooner or later, we must accept our role. Not only did our peers find us different, likely due to our abundance of extraordinary curiosity, but our parents, too, felt alienated from the child they found bookish, eccentric, gay, tomboyish, peculiar, or seemingly uncomfortable with themselves since their interests were their own instead of their parents. We grew up without the confidence that love brings to people.

Nedonna Beach between Rockaway Beach and Nehalem Bay, Oregon

I suppose my impossible goal while in the wilds of nature is to see more of more, to hear all that is unheard in the silence, and to find the scents beyond the capability of my nose. That, by my definition, is love; it is intimacy. If we are lucky in life, we might find that partner who also cherishes the quiet moments of soft touch, delicate smells, and the sounds of heartbeats and breaths. In a sense, this is what I’m looking for in my relationship with the outside world. In our close and personal moments, when love is dictating the soft passion of being lost in discovery, we find our most magnificent time of being mindless and largely outside of thought. If we are thinking about work, politics, sports, rumors, or the heavy drama of a TV show, we will not find ourselves caressing the shoulder, neck, or arm of our loved ones, lingering timelessly while locked in a reassuring embrace.

Nedonna Beach between Rockaway Beach and Nehalem Bay, Oregon

When we race to have it all, neither we nor our partners are quite satisfied. It is the same in Nature. We cannot arrive, see, and have conquered the place. Seeking the relationship of love, we’ll want to know more. We’ll have no choice but to know more, or we’ll be left wondering what the attraction was. Rarely does love at first sight work unless we are passionately self-aware and happen to stumble upon someone or someplace else who is also beholden to this quality. Yes, I just wrote “someplace” as I want to believe that just as I fell in love with someone who was looking for a similar type of person, able to love, Nature must have an abundance of love intertwined within its complexity for those who are attuned to finding it.

Tillamook Bay between Garibaldi and Rockaway Beach, Oregon

So, if Nature is embracing me in love, it would make more sense to me that as I wake, I find this desire to explore and touch its softer, more subtle corners, allowing me to bask in a day of sensual discovery. This is the hallmark of love.

Bayocean Peninsula Park in Tillamook, Oregon

Maybe Nature is love? And while there is a fierce side of it, discompassionate for the comings and goings of all that is required to sustain it, there is that time, if we are lucky enough, in which we might find a window of opportunity to roam within the freedom of love. To always seek intellectual meaning in life is to negate the thing that is right in front of us, but love is also the thing that might require the most rigorous analysis from a species that has gotten caught up with labels, utility, wealth, and status. Moving through the complexity of science, function, philosophy, religion, consumerism, and other distractions that busies our minds, what is left on the other side is love.

Bayocean Peninsula Park in Tillamook, Oregon

While I’ve not been everywhere, from the places I have been, I cannot say I’ve ever met a biome I didn’t like. Stand at the ocean, and you’ll see it push things out of it. Bits of life disgorged from this vast sea set out on land; sometimes, it even crawls out, but most of what comes ashore is pushed by the force of the current. At some point, these shells, plants, crabs, shells, and the algae foam chasing across the slickwater sand in the Annual Foamberg Reggata will all just disappear. You also were pushed into life, you only have minutes to look up at the sun unencumbered and free to bask in the warmth of the sunshine. Don’t waste that precious time, as you’ll not gain another second when the end comes.

Dead Bird at Bayocean Peninsula Park in Tillamook, Oregon

The impressions have been made, but they’ll have to linger in the pot of memories melding with the myriad of other human ingredients collected in my head. If I’m lucky, they’ll emerge in future writings; otherwise, they go to the grave with me someday, my existence wiped off the beach, dragged back into the ocean of life. As this journey unfolds, I can only hope my shared words so far capture something of what I was able to distill along the way, but I will have to wait to learn what filters through my mind as I work on sorting what may have held importance. What are people waiting for? We cannot grasp the joys of love and discovery in chasing dead and hollow icons. Our minds and emotions are the temples that are supposed to be filled with the treasures of experience. These can only be collected through a kind of vulnerability where we recognize our ignorance of most everything and our need for the embrace of love found in others willing to share with us while we give of ourselves.

Caroline Wise at Bayocean Peninsula Park in Tillamook, Oregon

Love is right in front of you; it’s all around you, below and above you. Again, I have to think about the Navajo Beauty Way Prayer with beauty all around us. Isn’t that just another way of saying love is all around you and that we walk in love?

Bayocean Peninsula Park in Tillamook, Oregon

Our day represented in this blog entry doesn’t follow my usual narrative of photo, impressions, photo; these words are more about the arch of our trip through my perception, as thoughts bring on new ideas and conclusions that were somehow part of the time I contemplated aspects of moments.

Bayocean Peninsula Park in Tillamook, Oregon

As for the day itself, we started with a long walk on Manzanita Beach before heading south and crossing the Nehalem River, which is the broad panorama nine photos down from the top. Our next stop was at Nedonna Beach between Nehalem Bay and Rockaway Beach. The third location is right next to the Three Graces near the mouth of Tillamook Bay between Rockaway Beach and Garibaldi. After returning to Tillamook, we headed out to Cape Meares but never made it as we detoured out to Bayocean, where a townsite once stood before being claimed by the ocean. Our afternoon walk brought us up to 12 miles (19.3km) of steps for the day, with the majority of them accumulated on a deserted beach with no one else in sight.

Bayocean Peninsula Park in Tillamook, Oregon

For the third night running, we lounged in the hot tub under a moon, inching ever closer to fullness. I nearly forgot to mention that our Cozy Cottage also has an outdoor shower, which, of course, we took advantage of. The place was cleaned up tonight, and the car was mostly packed, so we can get an early start in the morning as we start our drive southeast towards home.

Bayocean Peninsula Park in Tillamook, Oregon

In the calm of the early evening on still-reflective waters, our sense of awe draws us in to pause and sigh at our good fortune. We have the time, inclination, ability, and resources to venture into ourselves while simultaneously moving out of the potential trap of being cozy at home. We do not wish to grow old in the sense of becoming bitter and fixed in our ways. Growing old to become majestic like a Sequoia or Redwood while still branching out seems like an apt metaphor as we age. The clouds reflected in the waters are how those who reach maturity and wisdom should be reflected in those younger people who are still gathering experience. This is the image of tranquility, where the transition from day to night, water to sky, and earth to heavens waits with limitless opportunity for us to discover how we fit into the whole.

When Returning Is Not The Same

Right in front of you, the world could have changed, but how would you know? Do you think it will be obvious? At first, everything looks like it’s in its place, and you have no reason to doubt that things are as they should be. Maybe you should go have a closer look.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

The anemones are where they should be. They look healthy, pretty even. Maybe you wonder why there are no sea stars here or mussels? Have they ever been here on this beach?

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

Look ashore; things look dandy over there, even inviting, but this part of the walk has us walking next to the surf. There are clues to something afoot. I took a photo of it and was oblivious to what was in the frame. We kept heading south, walking along on our way as though it was just another day.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

We stop to wonder why these blue spots are on a nearby rock exposed by the low tide. It only took a second to deduce that there had been barnacles attached there. We try to figure out why the point of contact would be blue but we never thought for a second that maybe there’d been barnacles living here in greater numbers just recently.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

As we strolled along, I noticed a hole in the rock well before Caroline, and even after pointing it out, it took her a while to notice the parallax occurring with the background behind the hole. There it was, right in front of us. We’d walked the length of the beach to get here, and now we could approach it to see what was on the other side.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

Our view was of the Yaquina Head Lighthouse. I searched the internet looking for someone else who might have snapped this photo, too, but I came up with nothing. Has no one else seen this yet, or is it simply not compelling enough?

Fossils at Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

A clam fossil looking mighty old embedded in the rock. But how old is it? Is it really a clam, or could it be a Panopea Abrupta, which is an extinct cousin of the geoduck? There are many fossils all around us at the end of the beach, which I should point out is only the end of the beach because the surf is high enough not to allow us to navigate around the cliffside with the hole in it.

Fossils at Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

There are many fragments, but of course, it’s the more intact and recognizable pieces that draw me in. I can look right past the white flecks of broken pieces because I’m going to see what I want to see. But what if those small remnants were part of something really amazing? I can’t know that, as I’m not trained to see that type of detail. It’s kind of like Donald Johanson walking in the desert of Ethiopia when he spots a bone fragment among the rocks and discovers Australopithecus afarensis, better known as Lucy. I’m under no illusion we’ll find something that important, especially because these fossils are said to be about 18 million years old and are from the sea, but the point is, I wouldn’t know what I was looking at even if I was staring right at it.

Fossils at Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

This particular shell is bigger than my hand and makes me wonder why we never see shells this size here onshore. Are there mollusks this size right here in the ocean? Which one of the 85,000 mollusk types is this one? The snarky answer is obvious: it’s a dead one. With a bit of research after we left the beach, it turns out that this might be a member of the Pectinidae family, otherwise known as a scallop.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

Then it finally dawns on me after being out here for well over an hour; there’s been a serious landslide here recently. How did I miss this? We’ve been walking along the ocean only 60 feet away, and I didn’t notice this. There are fallen trees in that photo of the cliffside eight photos ago that totally slipped by me. Only on our way back up the coast did I notice them, as I was by then studying all the signs that some land here was slipping towards the sea. Was this due to the recent king tides and heavy rains? Later, I asked at our front desk, but the clerk hadn’t even heard about landslides just down the beach from her.

Fossils at Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

Between taking an inventory of areas that I’m assuming plunged recently, I continued to be momentarily transfixed by so many easily accessible fossils being on display. I started searching my memory of our visit back in 2018 and can only remember the various hues of clay and the sculpted cliffsides that drew my focus into them, but fossils were not part of the landscape. Are these widely scattered signs of the earth’s past only on display because of a recent major disruption in the fabric of the coast?

Fossils at Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

Buried in the sand was a shell that Caroline believed was a recent one that washed in on the current. She grabbed at it only to find it attached to something below the sand; it is now part of rock along with another mollusk shell, keeping its petrified cousin company across the millennia.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

This entanglement of seaweed is here not as evidence of earth movement or ocean history but is featured because Caroline is enchanted by these displays of sea spaghetti.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

The stuff I was photographing back in 2018 is mostly covered like this. Why shouldn’t the coast be radically different two years after our initial visit to this beach? That our return is not the same as it was should come as no surprise, and in some ways, it’s not, what’s more surprising is that we were just over at the water’s edge and weren’t noticing any of this. While I may not want to mix politics and vacation, I can’t help but think how many people close to a particular conservative persuasion are failing to see a drift to the extreme right when it’s right in front of them.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

We see murky bluish water nearby and then walk past this huge rusty cavern of water emerging from a slice in the cliffside. While we can clearly see the rust-colored staining going on, we can’t offer anything else on why it’s happening or where its origins are. We can note it but are lost in interpreting it. I wish we had a geologist with us right now. The damned thing is, we met a guy, also named John, further down the beach, who is a geologist and told us the story about the Astoria Formation that these fossils are located in and that they here are about 18 million years old. Sadly, we couldn’t keep him with us as a guide to interpret every little thing we are seeing.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

Sea-bleached wood rubbed smooth after being tossed against cliffs and abraded with sand is turned into art over time. Dragging something back to Arizona, unfortunately, is not possible as the most beautiful pieces probably weigh close to a thousand pounds or more.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

Images such as this are similar to what I shot a couple of years ago. I stand in astonishment that clay can rehydrate after being locked away for thousands and possibly millions of years. Don’t quote me on that, but this is my observation, considering where the clay is and where the fossils are. Even when you want to accurately interpret reality, and the information is out there somewhere, it’s not always easy to have much more than an opinion. And opinions are not facts.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

We are getting closer to our motel up the cliffside, and it is precisely this view that enamored my senses on our first visit and seemed to be prevalent then. Are there still many other sights like this one down the coast but buried under landslides, or is my memory not particularly accurate?

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

This is not the work of some Coastal Banksy character who graffitis local cliffsides to trick visitors into thinking their weed has them hallucinating. Now that I’m in my room writing about this, I wonder why we didn’t dig some of this blue clay out of the beach to take home and make something from it. Maybe tomorrow we’ll do some harvesting?

Caroline Wise about to enjoy an 8 pound burger from Newport Cafe in Oregon

There was supposed to be a wildly enthusiastic video of Caroline digging in for the first bite of our 8-pound SUPER ULTIMATE MONSTER BURGER! For my readers outside the United States, this burger weighs in at 3.7kg. This epic creation from Newport Cafe down the road really is as wide as my wife and twice as big as her head. Why is there no video? As I started filming, I was wondering why Caroline’s eyes started twitching, except that was no twitch; she was blinking in Morse code for someone to save her from her idiot husband, who thought it was a good idea to go fetch this $36 thing. So I asked for an enthusiastic smile; instead, her retort was something like this, “You got me to share that ridiculous 4-pound Ultimate Monster back in 2012, then a few years later, in 2015, we did it again. In 2017, I successfully talked you out of the 8-pounder with the concession that we’d share a 4-pound Ultimate Monster; yet again, I thought we were done that time. By 2019, I thought we were making progress when we got the puny 3-pound Monster burger, and now you go and spring this on me? I may like their burgers, but what’s next, a 16-pound Double Ultimate Monster Burger?”

Thanksgiving 2021 holds promise for new culinary adventures, and I can thank my enthusiastic wife for her brilliant ideas and for giving in to my slightly outrageous whims.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

It was get out and walk in the rain or pass out till Wednesday. How much of that 8-pound behemoth did we manage to eat? It looks like finches pecked at it there’s so much left. We’ll try folding some of it into an egg scramble in the morning if we can face it. Okay, maybe I’m lying, as you can probably see in my smile that I ate the whole thing. A lot of walking was needed to shake the lethargy brought on by our crazy indulgence, so enough about gluttony and down the beach we go.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

There’s no one else out here, and the tide is on its way up. While there’ll be no sunset in this gray soup of fog and rain, we are still mesmerized by the entire experience. To walk along the ocean is a luxury we cherish.

Moolack Beach in Newport, Oregon

It was a short walk, really, as our path took us north due to our going south in the morning. We reached a stream we were not comfortable crossing, so we turned around to hit the part of the beach we’d trekked earlier. Is anyone interested in buying 6 pounds of leftover burger?

Becoming Infinite

Sunrise in front of Ocean Haven in Yachats, Oregon

The catharsis brought about by Remote Self-Isolation is therapeutic, restorative, and soothing. Allowing the eyes to find focus at such a variety of distances is an exercise in optic nerve relaxation and de-tensioning of many of the facial muscles. Inside my head, the brain is able to decompress, stretch, and bask in the vastness of clarity from the calcified and atrophying state it was in while it played observer to the circus of news, politics, pandemic, and the rest of the show called 202o. It seems appropriate that as we go deeper into calm and further in our travels, the weather and ocean, too, would be a reflection of our internal being.

Rainbow in front of Ocean Haven in Yachats, Oregon

When you are thinking it can’t get much better, a rainbow appears and somehow that makes things better yet. Conversely, will I feel so lucky when the day comes when things are horrible, and I’m thinking, “It can’t get much worse,” and then it does?

We are moving slowly today as I fight the impulse to race outside to do stuff. The sense of rarity being in this environment pushes me to seize every moment and experience it as viscerally as possible, but we are here trying to learn what a routine might be like if we were living here. Trying to remain off of any self-imposed schedule isn’t exactly easy, though maybe this contradicts my previous sentence in which I suggested we are trying to explore a different routine, implying a variety of habits. The point is, would we run outside every few minutes to gawk at every new twist in the appearance of things?

Taking our time to get out of bed slowly, enjoying its warmth and coziness along with the view of the sky transitioning from dawn to morning while the surf rolls in, is a delightful creature comfort. Waiting to make breakfast until a bit of coffee has been had and then moving over to warm last night’s beans and dropping a couple of fried eggs on top seems to be luxurious, indulgent even. Then it’s time to tend to the writing that will start to capture the day, but not before we throw open the windows for some Stosslüften (German for fresh air exchange) that has us putting on our sweaters. It is, after all, mid-November and a brisk 46 degrees (8c) that the weather service claims feels like 43 (6 Celsius), so while the ocean view may be cool, so is the air above it.

Second rainbow in front of Ocean Haven in Yachats, Oregon

Then, an hour later, a second rainbow greets us. While far from Hawaii, we like to get reminders of our time out on the islands where rainbows are quite the common occurrence. Another half an hour passes while nothing really happens besides me getting lost staring at the ocean. Time for a short walk.

Caroline Wise at Ocean Haven in Yachats, Oregon

Down the dark, steep trail over slippery rocks, we once again try making it down to our secluded private beach.

Ocean Haven in Yachats, Oregon

Might have made it 10 feet further on our trail to the beach than we had before, but now it’s time to resign myself to the reality that I won’t be traversing the rest of the narrow footpath that’s cut out of the rock face. My fear of the 20-foot drop that you can’t get a good perception of from this photo is too much to handle for my exposure-terrified mind. Tomorrow, the plan is to try a trail from a more southerly point, hike up the beach, and see if my angst can be assuaged with a different approach.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Earlier this morning, while we were admiring the rainbows, I’d talked with my sister Amanda about meeting up at Carl G. Washburne Memorial State Park, about five minutes south of where Caroline and I are staying. It was about 11:15 when we converged in the parking lot across the street. Due to COVID, the campground was closed, but the trails were open. I don’t know how many times we’ve hiked the Valley Trail to the China Creek Loop Trail, but it’s a lot, not quite an infinite lot, but you get the idea.

There are spores in that mushroom in front of me that might carry generations to come of mushroom offspring. Maybe there’s a variation in its genetics that could prove meaningful to us when a new pandemic shows up, but in many places, our endless requirements for money demand we take all we can from the earth with no regard for the damage we inflict on it as long as we can conduct commerce. This is a profoundly outdated perspective at this time, as all currency is really nothing more than digital ledger entries that represent abstractions of wealth. Our wealthiest are not worth trillions of pieces of lichen or billions of pieces of gold; they are valued by the representational value of stocks that are certified to have a particular value that changes electronically day by day due to supply, demand, and perception. We could do the same for those who perform labor or make art, but the real goal of putting so little value on some people who dig ore from the ground or clear trees from forests is to ensure there’s a baseline poverty in order to compare the wealthy and what they deserve for that accumulation of accounting figures.

But this walk in the forest is not about economics; it’s about the nature found in this park. In that sense, my writing here is only possible because this land is protected for now, and nobody has been given orders to come and erase this mushroom so they can pay rent on their tiny home, but in many parts of this state, that is exactly what goes on. Of course, there are not enough of us who even want to come out to these wildlands to witness what’s at hand. The flip side of that is that we cannot build another Grand Canyon or Yellowstone, so the point of diminishing return, when the demand is too high for natural places, means the experience can be lost when too many of us want to see these beautiful lands.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

But we must find a way to strike a balance in our pillaging of the unseen world and somehow educate the masses about the importance of unspoiled places, which are outside of their purview, and simultaneously not denying someone who lives in the area the ability to feed and shelter themselves and their family; we ensure that nature continues to have the opportunity to create sights such as this.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Bacteria, fungi, spores, insects, food, oxygen, plants, wood, carbon sequestering, moisture capture and release, heat transferral, evolution, and an insane amount of genetic diversity that’s what exist in this photo, along with a likely long list of things I don’t have the knowledge to share. While all of this is right here, just up the road, the forest has been turned over, stripped clean, and is now on fire, as those reaping the economic reward of doing such a thing turn every last bit of life into profit. It’s sad that nothing, absolutely nothing, about what I’m writing is new. There’s no original thought in these words, only the futile wish that maybe they reach someone’s mind at a time they are able to work with them in a way I cannot. Think of my musings as just someone else attempting to create a base structure of paint that will be utilized a thousand years later by Leonardo da Vinci to paint a face that will be cherished for the next 500 years.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Can you not see the art of the infinite in this fern? Stop a moment and consider the root that nourishes the plant above it with minerals extracted from the soil that is made of other decaying matter from bacteria to insects and other plants. The roots are also the conduit for getting water to the rest of the plant. The leaves are green due to the chlorophyll that more easily absorbs sunlight with pores called stomata, so carbon dioxide can enter the thin leaves and fuel the action, finally releasing oxygen. This inherited process first occurred in blue-green algae and kickstarted the creation of our atmosphere, but we don’t look at plants as having a long lineage of familial relationships; we see them as food, ornaments, or tools that lend themselves to our comfort. This should be a respectful symbiotic relationship, but most of us in modernity are oblivious to this important fact.

At an even deeper level is the genetic data, which acts as the blueprint of how nutrients are drawn from the earth and energy from the sun are harnessed to assemble the atomic and molecular structures that will build cells that can be chained together in order for the shape of the plant to form. While it may seem obvious, the roots do not have lips and mouths for drinking water from the dirt. They use osmosis, where cells of tiny hairs on the roots are tuned to absorb ions of minerals and water. As a refresher for those who slept in science class, as I might have, ions are the charged atoms and molecules that make up the minerals and water.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

About 350 miles (560km) from where we are right now on the Oregon Coast is the Malheur National Forest and the home of Armillaria ostoyae.  The honey mushroom, as it’s better known, is the world’s largest organism; its nickname is the Humongous Fungus. The mushroom pictured is not of that family, and I’m only pointing this out in keeping with my theme of the infinite. You see, that organism is incredibly large, as in about 2,400 acres or 3.7 square miles (9.65 square kilometers) and is estimated to be over 2,000 years old and maybe up to about 8,600 years old.

I’m sharing this because as we entered the China Creek Trail here at Washburne State Park, something became quickly apparent: with the lack of tourists plodding through this corner of the rainforest, there were many more mushrooms still standing. For some reason, people enjoy kicking over mushrooms. Then, when we arrive, scenes such as this feature the broken and decaying mushrooms that appear tragic and sad, vandalized by idiots. The nature of our world is not infinite, but the knowledge and beauty that can be extracted could be unless there’s not much left of its diversity.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

The next thing I noticed was that the moss covering the ground was not as plush as in previous visits. I’d attribute this to a lack of rainfall. While the area has had nearly 3 inches of rain this past week, it was a dryer summer with more fire activity in the surrounding areas. Could the dryer conditions have anything to do with the ever-growing amounts of land that are stripped of its bio-diversity, requiring years of restoration? Heavy vegetation and thick ground cover hold moisture, which is slow to evaporate; as that water evaporates, creating vapor, clouds form, and the cycle of replenishment is at work. Take away the glue from this equation, and nobody should wonder why things are dryer.

Similarly, in Phoenix, Arizona, we have removed the majority of open spaces and replaced them with asphalt, concrete, cinderblocks, homes, shops, and glass. We now have a heat island where the nature of monsoons is quite different than it was 30 years ago. Walk around a Phoenix neighborhood near a nature preserve in the evening or early morning, and you’ll be shocked at how the temperature flowing off the open land can be 3-5 degrees cooler than the area packed with homes, streets, and cars. Our environmental intelligence is lacking and needs its own restoration work.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

This is not smog or smoke being illuminated by the sun; it is water vapor lifting out of the forest. I used to think this was a rare phenomenon as I never saw it in the forests of southern California where I grew up; I can’t remember seeing it in German forests either. When I did see it, I was usually near a campground, so I often associated it with campfires and their drifting smoke. This scene is now accepted as being absolutely common, as I’ve seen it so very often, especially right here in this corner of Washburne State Park. I’m fairly certain I could have seen it in other places, but tend to think I wasn’t as aware of wanting to see all the details that were present to my senses, but I was busy ignoring them as I had places to be and was moving through more focused on myself instead of the nature I was temporarily within.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Have we seen you before? Have you been held by my wife on a previous visit? You look familiar, but that may be due to our inability to appreciate the subtle differences that newts can see between each other. Walking through the rainforest, one should be mindful of small movements underfoot as these slow-moving creatures traverse the moist ground. By now, we know not to pick them up as they release a toxin when under stress, but silly us want to believe they remain calm when held by a creature that means them no malice and simply wants to appreciate their beauty and incredible eyes. Regarding having seen this guy (gal?) before, the newt lives for between 6 and 20 years, so it’s not impossible that we’ve smiled upon this one before. Have you ever seen a newt walk? Click here to watch an example, but be careful searching for “Newt Walk” as you may stumble upon the Naked European Walking Tour instead!

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

This is the halfway point of an infinitely long blog post. I have reached over 2,200 words for the first 14 photos that accompany this day of recollections from our time of Remote Self-Isolation. I don’t know exactly where this will go and how I’ll maintain my wordiness, but like the mushroom holding a lifetime of water for some creature or other, my brain still has words in abundance I could choose to share. Maybe you are thinking, “These photos hold a lot of beauty while your words just go on and on.” Well, in that case, please know that I’ll not be hurt by you scrolling through the rest of the entry so you might see how our day appeared instead of learning whatever it was I thought important while we were strolling through a rainforest.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

One mushroom holds its water within and the other on its surface. The idea that the surface tension of this fungus is so great that it holds a sheen of liquid clothes is amazing to me. The subject of wetness brings me to my forgetfulness in remembering to bring kneepads on these visits to wet forests. It never fails that I leave with muddy pants as I give in to the need to kneel on the earth to snag a photo that brings me down to the height of moss and mushrooms. Come to think of it, I’d do well if I bring my tripod as holding the camera still long enough to take a photo in low light is never an easy feat, but this then would require us to bring even more stuff than we already do. Just remembering our curiosity and flipping the off-switch to current events is a monumental task. Shiny mushrooms in a rainforest, who knew?

Caroline Wise with Amanda and Brandon Horton at Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

You shouldn’t have the impression that this blog post is being written as we go along here on the 19th, as at this point, it’s now the evening of the 20th, and returning to it after a languid day of dawdling, I have to admit, is a task that I’m not really up to. That doesn’t mean I won’t try my best, but honestly, I’d like to head off to sleep. Anyway, back to the story.

After a long pause, I can only come up with nope, can’t do it as my old brain just won’t cooperate; it’s stuck in done and finished. So maybe tomorrow, which would actually be the 21st, I’ll catch up with this entry from the 19th, tackle today, the 20th (which, compared to the blog post you are reading, is still the future), and not fall behind regarding tomorrow’s post which is even more in the future. Then again, you can’t be reading this on the day it happened as it’s not been posted yet, and it could be weeks, months, or years after the events memorialized here that you have discovered my missives heavy on words and photos with nary a moment of video.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Grabbing a spotlight in the sun on a branch high above, this fern has left its terrestrial home for a place closer to the stars. What is it about plants growing on plants that are so intriguing? I believe the first time I can remember seeing this was down in the Redwoods National Park and then up in Olympia National Park in Washington was another standout moment in plant parasitism. Or, as I would rather think of it, symbiosis. Come to think of it, we are the actual parasites on the plant life here on Earth.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

The path out of the woods has me thinking about our need for a way out of the immature intellectual woods humanity is cowering within. COVID is to us what we are to the rest of the planet; from the sea below to the sky above, no life is safe from our onslaught. We kill with abandon, despoil with relish, and exterminate with nary a care because we are the HOMINID. The path ahead can take us from the darkness of our primitive natures, or we can continue our rampage pretending we are the Earth’s normal. We are not normal, nor are we ultimately good for life at this time in our evolution.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

From the death cult of humanity, we celebrate the macabre, even in beautiful places. The Hobbit Trail, a connector segment from the rainforest trail we just left on the other side of the road, brings us to the beach. But first, we must pass through the gauntlet of gutted crab shells that have been amassed next to the trail on a sand shelf a few feet above the trail. Hundreds of crab parts are neatly organized as though some kind of ritual passing of dead crabs into the crab netherworld had been taking place, celebrated by some Druid culture that had fetishized these crustaceans.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

Out in the open, with clear minds, we can choose to celebrate life and all of its inherent beauty. We could decide to do our best to be a sustainable, clean, do-no-harm species. We could each use the power of our minds to do better instead of relying on the smarter people “out there” who will make these decisions for us. Think about this mirror image of the clouds reflected in the wet sand; we are seeing beauty above and below*. Well, we are in some way similar: If we are the worst representation of what humanity can be, we’ll see that reflected in much of what’s around us. And when our anger and greed know no bounds and there’s not enough chaos in our immediate vicinity, we’ll take our personal war to others.

* Navajo Blessingway prayer: In beauty, I walk. With beauty before me, I walk. With beauty behind me, I walk. With beauty above me, I walk. With beauty around me, I walk. It has become beauty again.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

A large swath of our population is feeling like fish out of water. They have not adequately adapted to walk on the technological landscape that is our new reality. Those people are being whipped into a frothing, seething wave of anger and may ultimately need to take their personal war of frustration out on others, whom they can make feel their pain. Those of us who have made the Tiktaalik-like transfer from sea-to-land-to-electrosphere (read Neil Shubin’s Your Inner Fish) are doing okay, but we are leaving behind a vast part of our brothers and sisters, and they are growing seriously angry.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

We cannot just walk away from all of our responsibilities and build ourselves shelters on islands away from the carnage our barbaric practices have left behind. Our need to self-isolate is indicative of an uglier issue that we have abandoned one another, and now we can’t face them due to the growing guilt and awareness that we are not good people. We are selfish, petty, vain, and arrogant, married to a glamourized economically driven piety where everything is justified as being good as long as it creates wealth.

Changing this requires a conversation that we cannot have as our belligerence stops us from recognizing that we’ve soiled our own bed. We’ve failed one another with our acceptance of mediocre education as long as one is a consumer genius. It’s better to be popular than good or smart.

Carl Washburne State Park on the Oregon Coast

When the last two people are left battling over this tiny island of land, we will extinguish our legacy while the bacteria that have been on earth 14,000 times longer than our species will be free to start all over again with a new attempt at spreading life. Just because it’s 2020 and we have smartphones does NOT mean we ourselves are smart, but then again, who in their right mind would want to listen to some idiot blogger proselytizing on behalf of nature and his own narrow understanding of what it means to be human?

Caroline Wise at Ocean Haven in Yachats, Oregon

At least there is love, the stars, and the constant motion of the sea. These are the three most meaningful things for my soul. Of course, I’m referring to my living soul, as my jury is still out if there’s an eternal soul. Funny how it’s okay to be uncertain and questioning about everything else I wrote above, but this whole question about the domain of God is beyond reproach. How are we able to have such firm beliefs in the things that are absolute unknowns while we can throw our hands in the air regarding our responsibility to a planet we credit the same God as having created?

Sunset at Ocean Haven in Yachats, Oregon

If one day or evening I do, in fact, encounter God, I am certain it will not be a mirror image of the ugliness we are as a collective. God will be love stretching into the stars and coming in waves of humility that it had created such a hostile species that would be so arrogant to claim it had been created in God’s image.

Sunset at Ocean Haven in Yachats, Oregon

The sun is setting on our lives every day, and the time is short that we can remove ourselves from the self-isolation of living in our chosen darkness. The cycle of things will continue regardless of our will or lack of it, but large numbers of our fellow humans will have to remain in their suffering if we don’t act on what we claim to believe in.

Sunset at Ocean Haven in Yachats, Oregon

I love these sunsets by the ocean, and I love them even more because I’m experiencing them next to my best friend, Caroline. As the last remnants of a golden horizon fade away, I know that an infinite field of stars is about to shower me with ancient light, demanding that I again recognize my good fortune to be here witnessing it.

Not The Same As Yesterday

The view from Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

While the day was starting as a repeat of yesterday with gray stormy weather, by 11:00, things were clearing out, which was good as we had plans for the afternoon that involved us leaving our cozy enclave. We were both surprised by how quickly we had become attached to this place by the ocean. From yesterday’s photos, you might wonder what the attraction was as it’s not always what is obvious to the eye at first glance, but we knew that past the gloom was this view. Now with the sun fully arrived and Friday promising to be a sun-drenched glorious day too, would you think it crazy if I told you that a big part of me wished for a week of crippling weather bringing the threat of melancholy with it?

As far as writing goes, that will not happen until well after dinner tonight, though that 3,000-word behemoth blog entry from yesterday needed serious editing this morning, so I was able to tend to that. I was approaching the end of that task as the weather cleared, but by then, we needed to get on the road. We were traveling north to Yachats proper for a meeting that had been planned nearly a month ago.

Brandon and Amanda Horton with Caroline and John Wise in Yachats, Oregon

Yesterday, my little sister Amanda Horton and my brother-in-law Brandon drove 350 miles south from Seattle, Washington, down here to the Adobe Resort in Yachats. They are down for a few days of vacation, their first in two years, using the opportunity to visit us in addition to getting away.

While the photo is showing us standing in front of the ice cream shop, socially distanced mind you, we were meeting at the Luna Sea restaurant for lunch. It took us an hour and a half of gabbing before we could get our order in, and due to COVID restrictions, we couldn’t even eat on the property, but that wasn’t a problem as a nearby table in front of another restaurant that was closed served us just fine. Until that time, we just talked and talked. Even when we thought we were leaving, we continued the conversation for nearly another hour. We are uncertain if we’ll get together tomorrow as, although Amanda asked about the possibility, we gave them a pass should they need more recuperation time on their mini-vacation.

There’s a 20ish-year difference in our ages and a solid generation gap between us, but there’s a deep curiosity that binds us as siblings. Amanda needed to make her life somewhere other than Arizona, which is likely similar to the circumstances that drove me from Los Angeles, California. Sometimes, having the opportunity to define yourself away from the influences and environment that starts feeling like a trap is a great reason to grab what is often a once-in-a-lifetime second to seize the moment and change our destiny. She was one of the lucky people to do just that. Sadly, our origins are from dysfunctional parents where we never had the chance to be proper brother and sister besides her very first few years when I spent many an evening watching over her or taking her out to parks to visit the ducks or go pick oranges. After I joined the military, it would be nearly ten years before I’d see her again, and by then, she was a teenager like all other teenagers. But now, our family is tiny and will soon enough disappear. That we have this briefest of moments to meet up on vacation is a real treat, not lost on me.

Devils Churn at Cape Perpetua on the Oregon Coast

With the weather turning gray again with intermittent rain and getting a bit cold after standing outside for a few hours, it was time to part company. Caroline and I thought we were heading back to Ocean Haven until we figured we’d run down the trail at Devils Churn. It doesn’t matter that I already have maybe 10,000 photos of foam from this exact location; it’s always exciting to stand next to this gash in the earth and watch the furious waters race back and forth, trying to compete for space where there’s little to be had. In the process, the ocean beats itself into a frothy overflowing chaos that earned it its name: the Devils Churn.

Devils Churn at Cape Perpetua on the Oregon Coast

I’m leery to write anything here describing anymore than I just did as I’d imagine I’m only saying something already said before on a previous visit. As a matter of fact, I won’t dare compare these photos to some of the others I posted in years past, as maybe they look identical. But I don’t care, as every time we stand before this dynamic monument to what looks like the most violent butter-churning device ever invented, I stand in awe.

Devils Churn at Cape Perpetua on the Oregon Coast

Should you have thought that one foamy photo would be enough, you are wrong. I just realized one thing I may not have shared over the years: if you fell into this deep, narrowing chasm, you’d die. I refuse to believe anyone could be rescued from this cauldron of fury. The water is so aerated I can’t imagine keeping your head above the surface; if it were above the surface, you’d be gulping volumes of seafoam. Then, if you were to get your bearing, the next wave would come in and slam you with brutal force into the rock ledge, game over. I’m not so certain that retrieving a body from this liquid hell would be possible, so I stand far back, giving the Devils Churn the respect that it demands, and hope some rogue sneaker wave doesn’t come in and clean us out of its way.

Devils Churn at Cape Perpetua on the Oregon Coast

You know how when you do psychedelics and mathematic shapes unfold, producing blissful moments as you stand in astonishment at the incredibly beautiful complexity? Well, that’s what I get here without the shrooms or acid as the universe exposes itself to my naked eyes and naïve mind. With that in mind, if you can’t see what I’m referring to, then you should seriously consider finding yourself a dozen hours, some things that bring on hallucinations, and pull up a floor so you might look inside the vastness of the universe and be dazzled by its magic.

Devils Churn at Cape Perpetua on the Oregon Coast

Maybe I’ve been pulling your leg the whole time, and this is nothing more than a river of meringue that some pranksters dumped upon the surf? That idea, too, would come to you while tripping; seriously, you should consider going where your mind is afraid to travel.

Sunset at Neptune State Park on the Oregon Coast

This is the Oregon trip of eating my own braggart words as I start to feel we’ve hardly stopped at a fraction of all the places I claimed to have covered on our previous extensive journeys up and down the coast. Here we are for our first sunset photo at Neptune State Scenic Viewpoint. While it’s a good photo, I think nature can do better, so we move down the road believing with almost 30 minutes until the sun sinks out of view there are more opportunities to capture a masterpiece.

Sunset at Strawberry Hill on the Oregon Coast

At Strawberry Hill Wayside, I believe we found today’s perfect spot. How is a location like this measured? If every couple of minutes, a new, more spectacular scene is framed that elicits oohs and ahs from Caroline and me, there’s a really good chance this is it. If I get to 40 or 50 photos in less than 2 minutes, that can also be considered a good indicator. If I step left or right a few feet and swear that this perspective is the greatest ever, either I’m drinking my own Kool-Aid, or this really is the place to find the money shot.

Sunset at Strawberry Hill on the Oregon Coast

Twenty seconds after the previous photo with a different aperture, I think the warmer colors make for an even more impressive sunset photo. I’m enchanted by those remnants of golden light surrounded by the heavy storm clouds that weigh low on the ocean while in the distance above them small windows of blue sky can still be seen. It’s as though everything that the sky can offer is available right here.

Sunset at Strawberry Hill on the Oregon Coast

While this wasn’t necessarily a favorite sunset image, it joined the ranks of being featured due to this seagull being captured in just the right place.

Sunset at Strawberry Hill on the Oregon Coast

Then I walked over to where Caroline was standing and found that she had located exactly the best place in our universe, such as it existed in this moment of our lives, and so I moved in on her place with the superior camera and stole her thunder by snapping this masterpiece. So you need not ask; I’ll offer you what makes this one such a work of art: do you see that glimmer of golden light on the ocean at the bottom of the photo? That’s the magic. Like I said in the title at the top of this blog entry, today was not the same as yesterday.

White Noise at Ocean Haven

The view from Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

Maybe one learns to live differently at the coast, the precipice of earth, where there’s nowhere left to go besides into the sea. We arrived yesterday in the dark at our enchantingly small 280-square-foot cabin at the ocean’s edge and, after settling in, needed to tend to dinner. With the constant din of the ocean at our doorstep, we drifted off to sleep with thoughts of landslides, but not before recognizing that from our vantage point in bed, we could see a sky full of stars. Over the course of the night, our windows were buffered by occasionally heavy winds and rain. Combined with the knowledge that the Oregon Coast is experiencing a week of king tides, our doom fantasy of merging with Neptune’s wrath haunted what should have been peaceful dreams.

King Tide, you ask? In the Oregon Coast Beach Connection, I found this description: “They occur at a few specific times during the year when the moon’s orbit comes closest to the earth, the earth’s orbit is closest to the sun, and the sun, moon, and earth are in alignment, thereby increasing their gravitational influence on the tides.” In other words, the tide is high, really high. High enough in our imagination to cause significant and instant erosion that could suck our perch into the below; such is the price of active minds to see all possible scenarios.

We woke shortly after dawn with the rain still falling, the wind still blowing, and the sea still churning.

The view from Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

Nearly two hours later, we’d not moved much. The weather is about the same. Our resolve to sit here is strong, but so might the encroaching desire to snack. Good thing we don’t have a lot of options on that front.

The quality of the wind, or more precisely, the noise it makes, is a symphony of sorts. To our backs is the forest with tall trees that create a heavier wooshing sound while the short bushes in front of us produce a wispier-slicing sound, almost like a hissing. From the ocean comes a drone without distinguishable sounds of waves crashing; it’s an engine of constant frequency. Against our door, the creaking of wood and pressure of the wind coming out of the southeast suggests someone is there; alas, it’s an invisible visitor who comes and goes. From time to time, rain accompanies the wind, and when it blows the hardest, a low-frequency moan bears down, reassuring us that inside is the best place to be right now.

The view from Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

Looking out to the place that has captured our attention for hours by now, the ocean is a blown-out frothy mess of foam covered by a uniformly gray sky without definition. Pulses of rain continue to sweep the coast with only occasional gusts of wind, but just as you think that this will be the view for the entirety of the day, a spot of blue seems to be opening a gap in the heavens. The momentary optimistic break overhead brings some calm to the below as the ocean seems to have started moving in slow motion. As the gray returns, so do the height and frequency of the waves. Here, at an hour before high tide, we took a short walk down a path leading to the beach, but it is absolutely inaccessible. At other times, we might have opted to jump in the car to take a walk somewhere else. Instead, we remain planted on our perch determined to witness every minute of our luxury view.

I shouldn’t forget to mention the birds. The larger seagulls, as opposed to the smaller white ones, have been out here in front of our window all day and often in roughly the same area of the sky not far from our cliffside. I imagine they are riding unseen currents of air that are particularly conducive to a fun flight that exists where they keep appearing. Further out and ever-present are the cormorants. With their quickly beating wings, they hug the water before dropping in, often right in front of crashing waves and then diving below it for a swim in the murky depths, probably looking for food.

The view from Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

The sky is shifting with ever-changing weather, offering hopes that the sun will smile upon us. That glimmering idea is soon dashed but will come and go as the day progresses. I suppose I shouldn’t phrase that as something being dashed; the connotation implies that my happiness is somehow compromised without our star making an appearance. That would be wrong, as we welcome whatever the day brings and are quite content just being here.

The view from Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

Ah, little fluffy clouds are always delightful and maybe even inspiring. Their appearance has me wondering why the birds are so quiet when the tempest rages. While we’ve seen birds aplenty this morning, we were yet to hear a single call until this bit of blue sky was had. I recently noted that in Phoenix, Arizona, during the heat of the day, the birds there are quiet, too. There’s a lot to know about the lives of other species, with little time to learn much as we are so preoccupied with trying to learn about ourselves. For example, this is the first time in Caroline’s or my life that we’ve attempted to sit in front of the ocean all day without jumping in the car to hit another amazing spot or needing to go fetch something or other. We have all that we need, but finding the patience to enjoy this luxury of watching the entirety of a day change from dawn till evening from a single beautiful location with an incredible view could yet prove more difficult than it sounds. How is it that it took until we were in our 50s to consider staying in place to observe where our minds went?

The view from Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

When things change, even only minor aspects of a place, novel views are introduced that challenge the eye and senses to register these alterations in comparison to memories already formed. We intuitively know when presented with the unfamiliar that we should store as much as possible, as not knowing when we’ll return, there could be lessons that are essential to our survival with our recently discovered understanding of new possibilities. This archaic response to our environment helps us form pleasant memories here in the luxury of modernity where simply existing is mostly now taken for granted, especially where a kind of peaceful wealth is had.

Caroline Wise at Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

But even if you are well-tuned to awareness, do you have a like-minded partner with whom to share these things? Without another person by your side, who is there to affirm and celebrate your knowledge? I understand that we can’t always be with someone else, and even when people are with others, they are all too often still alone; such is the tragedy of relationships of convenience. Cultivating friendship is de rigueur, but patience and deep curiosity are also cornerstones to building a foundation that might endure the difficulties of growing up and growing older. Why we put the onus of relationship survival on familial connections and not on friendships and marriages is beyond my comprehension. I can only guess that it goes hand in hand with the idea of consumer culture, where we throw out the old and replace it with the new.

The view from Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

We should ask ourselves how are we so blind as not to recognize that there is no new and old; there is only flow in the now. This cycle of motion, at least from our perspective while living, is never-ending; we are until we are not. The larger questions of why and what has been or will be are great for philosophical and historical meanderings but are not always conducive to experiencing our brief moment in existence, though they can lend context and deeper understanding as we gaze out into the universe that marks our time here. We must strive to live life with first-hand knowledge instead of experiencing it through surrogates. This does not imply we peer into the void with the blank slate of the infant; knowledge is an important key to unlocking access to the domain of rich experience where we dip into flow. I will not survive seeing the day go by exclusively on the pages of a book, on the screen of a device, or from the person on the stage sharing their adventure. I need to stand here at the edge of the ocean and report back to myself just what I saw and what I experienced. With Caroline nearby, I have a witness to verify that my perceptions were indeed real.

Caroline Wise at the Shags Nest at Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

Our spatial orbit today is small, though traveling our internal space is as close to the infinite as we will ever know. I don’t believe we went for more than 10 minutes before acknowledging one another in some small way. I can’t say we were ever more than 10 feet away from each other, and for a good part of the day, we were a mere 10 inches away from each other as I was writing, and she was knitting, spinning, or penning postcards to friends and family. I played at trying to make drama a couple of times, so I might spice up the story, but the truth is we did co-exist, snuggled, and acted a bit goofy as we went about our day on a 22×20-foot plot of earth.

Flowers at Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

What was there that you missed? It was right in front of you; you walked by it dozens of times, but still, it eluded your senses. What might we think about that is also within our perception but outside of our active mind? Here is where we train ourselves to take time to be human, not just to be awake and breathing but truly human. The flower is present; maybe it offers a delightful appearance, it might exude a seductive fragrance, it will likely attract local pollinators, and after it fruits, it may produce nourishment for something else or create offspring, but it will never contemplate its existence. Are we too busy doing our job as a kind of function instead of breaking out of being not much more than plants and exploring our possibilities by seeing what lies deeper within? Our humanity is inside our creativity, our expression, and our ability to put ourselves somewhere different, both physically and intellectually. How do we see the flower within us when our senses are tuned to finding ourselves through those things we are not?

Shags Nest at Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

I told myself to write in that little box here in this photo. I insisted that I sit in there at the table at the window on the left, look out, and write something or other. It didn’t matter what I wrote, it only mattered that I look out to the vastness of the ocean and pull what I might from its depths and call it thought. The objective was enhanced when I was inspired to take a photo. If it turned out well, I’d include it in this blog entry, and it would become part of the narrative in some way or another. If I only felt like posting five images, my work would be soon over unless each photo produced a thousand words apiece and in that situation, I’d only be working on the second photo by this time.

Shags Nest at Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

There, on the right, not the side of the tiny house but those two windows facing the ocean, I’ve been occupying a place at a small dining table where I set up shop to write. As the weather changes, I find myself wandering outside more frequently. This doesn’t alter the pace of writing as earlier, when the driving wind and rain were hammering down upon our perch, I would walk over the two or three steps to the other window and gaze at the fury of nature in amazement that I should be so comfortable while the sea tried to capture the shore. I made reference to the size of our little getaway cottage, but I should point out that this type of place represents a corner of fantastic wealth as we never saw ourselves as being the kind of people who get to put up oceanside on an isolated part of a coast where being alone without neighbors seemed rich beyond our comprehension. But here we are in a room smaller than some people’s master bathroom, and yet we are in the lap of luxury with an opportunity afforded to few.

The view from Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

There’s a metaphor in these stairs we’ve attempted to navigate a few times today. Each of our three tries to reach the beach has been foiled. The first time we descended the narrowest and steepest cliffside trail we’ve taken, we were repulsed by strong winds as we emerged from the thicket that was taller than we were. The second time, we made it to an outcropping where a seagull stood, but the surf 50 feet below seemed to be cutting in under the cliff that was supporting it. I was certain something was on the verge of collapse; time to retreat. The third time, we made it to this point where we were only about 20 feet above the crashing surf, but beyond this, the narrow trail no longer had a rail, and with the wind still blowing at a brisk clip, I reached the end of the line. As for the metaphor, we tried this at different times of the day, and each ended a little further than the one before it. Tomorrow, we’ll hope for calmer winds, and we already know that today was the peak of the king tide, so maybe we’ll arrive on the unprotected landing and muster the courage to go on. So, the point is that we keep on trying to make progress, and maybe someday, we reach a new objective. It may not be the ultimate goal, but you are doing new stuff, and each attempt has you witnessing something you’d never imagined before.

The view from Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

This rocky beach was the objective. We can see no other way to get down there except the harrowing trail cut down the cliff face. There’s nothing particularly important about this short part of the Cape Perpetua Southeast Marine Protected Area, no special shells or rocks; it’s just a difficult-to-reach remote beach that few people will ever have the opportunity to walk along. In that sense, it’s another book that holds enough interest to at least open it and check out a few pages before deciding if we’ll continue. Should we be able to find Ocean Haven as a perfect destination, we’ll be increasing the chances that it will join our list of yurts and places as a desirable location to refresh our senses.

Shags Nest at Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

Yes, it’s a perfect view, but our typical stay along the Oregon coast doesn’t involve us staying in place for any period of time, especially during the day when we should be out exploring. For the people that own this property, it’s not important for them either to have this view as they allow people like us to borrow it. Maybe they are making a sacrifice in order to generate enough income to pay for the extraordinary price tag of owning such a place. This had me wondering about the economics when I found that the property last changed hands in 2017 for $1,200,000, which would cost about $5,500 a month with a mortgage. They rent out five units and appear to be mostly sold out, even in winter, so conservatively, it might appear the owner is earning maybe $15,000 a month gross. While not lucrative in the Silicon Valley sense of wealth, it would hold its own and allow them to buy another coastal property that could be their own to enjoy in full privacy. Why am I doing this math in a blog entry that’s been about the sensual pleasures of being by the sea? Because Caroline and I are trying to determine just where our retirement might be taking place someday when we are old(er).

Shags Nest at Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

Funny thing about looking beyond the window and how the frame conveys ownership, even if only temporary, as a renter. We can see precisely the same view from the road, a pullout, a campsite, or any number of other locations along the coast, but here, behind the glass, one has the strange opportunity to imply they own this little slice of the big picture. We are happy to borrow it and bury it deep within our memories. It’s possible that our memories and romanticizing of the experience will be longer lasting than living here, as there seems to be a certain acceptance of place that steals some of the magic compared to those who are only passing through. If we lived here, would I spend 15 hours before the sea trying to capture some essence of the place to write a blog entry about it?

Sunset from Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

Our wildest dreams usually fall short in producing picture-perfect sunsets that punctuate a day with a resounding sense of wow. Even when we are not given these treats, it seems like we are rarely disappointed by what the day ultimately delivers. By now, the succession of impressions started to blur, and the length of our Remote Self-Isolation vacation begins dilating as though we are entering a wormhole in time where we’ll be out here forever or until the day we turn the car around and feel like a time contraction teleported us to arriving just the day before.

Sunset from Ocean Haven south of Yachats, Oregon

It’s well into the night by the time I finish here. There’s the occasional flash of lightning over the ocean to the northwest, while to the southwest, we can see stars in a clear patch of sky. The ocean is quieter tonight than the ceaseless raging beast it was last night. The winds are calm, and we feel assured that we are far enough away from the cliffside that we are not in imminent danger of sliding into the ocean to our deaths. Just then, the winds pick up again and another flash of lightning catches my eye. Tomorrow will certainly be something different.