Luckily for me, the shifts in routine are minor. Shoes wear out, a phone gets replaced, an old Fitbit is showing too much damage, and the coffee shop I’d set up in so many mornings will no longer be my hangout. My diet changes as I demand self-awareness of the calories I take in; portions are a big part of that, and between-meal snacking, too plays a role. More things at home are finding their way to Goodwill as corners are given a good once over to determine if what’s there needs to remain with us.
Petroglyphs to Phoenix
Left Santa Fe early but late enough to allow us another opportunity to have breakfast over at the Pantry Restaurant. With that out of the way, we pointed the car toward Albuquerque. We had a mission that had us dropping in on the Petroglyph National Monument for the experience that precedes qualifying for yet another junior ranger badge.
With ample signage warning visitors not to leave ANYTHING visible in their cars at the Rinconada trailhead parking lot, we used this admonishment to go someplace else. We opted for a trail that had us backtracking a bit north to Piedras Marcadas Canyon. I didn’t have a good feeling about our hike starting off under these circumstances as I couldn’t help but think that maybe Albuquerque had started modeling itself after the TV series Breaking Bad. Not that I know a lot about that show, but I do know that gangsterism, meth, mayhem, and more meth were the central themes, using Albuquerque as its location.
Obviously, we’re walking the Piedras Marcadas Canyon trail by now, collecting petroglyphs in the camera.
Within the Petroglyph National Monument, there are an estimated 25,000 etchings that have been carved into the patina of the rocks stretching over the 12 square miles the National Park Service protects.
The oldest petroglyphs are estimated to be over 4,000 years old, but I’m guessing this one of a boy riding a snail is not one of those, though the early rendition of the Flying Spaghetti Monster to the left could predate Jesus.
This beautiful petroglyph I’m interpreting as, “Oh my god, it’s summer and there isn’t a tree anywhere to find shade under.”
From our perspective on a fenced trail, there are multiple dozens of petroglyphs etched into the rocks right in front of us. This has me wondering how many are out of view because what are the chances that consideration was made by early inhabitants to ensure their messaging would be visible to those that passed below?
The trail through here, while it’s been here a long time, wasn’t always so well defined, as evidenced by the worn side paths that are still growing over. I’m guessing that some decades ago, people were basically allowed to scramble over the boulders to see what they could see.
Seventy years ago, visitors didn’t understand the value of these sites and didn’t think anything about walking on fragile areas of Yellowstone, breaking off a chunk of stalagmite at Carlsbad Caverns, or crawling on the walls of an old pueblo. Today, it feels as though there is a wanton desire to destroy for the sake of destruction and leaving your own personal mark on something that cannot be repaired. Just as we learned that areas of Bandelier that were once visitable and likely listed in our old park brochure are no longer on maps in order to dissuade others from finding and harming these historic sites, it makes me wonder how long we’ll have access to seeing these petroglyphs with our own eyes.
Our short 2-mile hike took us about 90 minutes of walking through sand that only grew progressively warmer as we went along. Good thing Caroline had a gallon of water on her back. Time to return to the visitor center for you know what.
Yep, swearing in as a fully-fledged Junior Ranger at Petroglyph National Monument in Albuquerque, New Mexico. It’s still too early in the morning to go find Sadie’s for some of their regional eats, so we’ll get on the road as there are still 420 miles ahead of us on our way home.
This long, straight road ahead takes us to Arizona (unless we detour).
Of course, we had to detour; we are John and Caroline, and lingering is part of who we are. Taking Interstate 40 to Interstate 17 for the fastest straightest shot home sounded so incredibly boring that anyone should know that we’d never take that route. So, in Grants, we left the freeway to travel back down through El Malpais National Monument just as we did back on May 15, two months earlier.
Sixty days ago, in order to save time for the other things we wanted to do out here, we skipped the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook, but not today.
Caroline went one direction, the way of the daredevil unafraid of heights, while I took the more terrestrial path.
While she was up there somewhere on the right, I made this my viewpoint.
Until we converged again to take off for another view from the bluffs.
Maybe this looks somewhat familiar from our trip last month.
It should have, as we are right back out here at La Ventana Arch, but the lighting feels better.
Right up atop this cliffside is the Narrows Trail we’d love to revisit already, but time won’t allow it today.
Well, let’s be serious, time would allow it if I’d not set my mind on eating at Guayo’s El Rey in Miami, Arizona, meaning we would have to reach that small town before it grows too late. As it turned out, we had to go to Guayo’s on the Trail in Globe as the unreliable Google, while knowing the existence of these businesses, didn’t know that the Miami location was closed for vacation until the 22nd. Good thing I called ahead due to my growing mistrust of anything shared by Google.
For the rest of our drive home, we’d hit rain here and there, often quite heavy. While the cloud cover makes for somewhat dull landscapes regarding color and brightness, it sure does have the potential to lend drama to a sky.
What’s worse than driving mountain and canyon roads during heavy rain here in Arizona? Driving on any roads in the rain anywhere in this state.
Dinner at Guayo’s on the Trail was not at all what I was looking for and now has me wondering if the two Guayos are even related. One thing is certain: I’ll never visit the Globe location again. As you can tell from the sky over Picketpost Mountain in Superior, the rains have stayed behind while we return to the hot, dry desert of Phoenix.
Santa Fe to Bandelier National Monument
We are back at the International Folk Art Market (IFAM) here on Saturday morning in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Thanks are in order for Dion Terry for his breakfast recommendation of the Pantry Restaurant over on Cerrillos Road. Prepared with the experience that comes with having been operating since 1948 and mastery of green chili, our first meal of the day hit the mark.
Gasali Adeyemo operates this booth with beautiful Adire cloth from Nigeria. Nothing caught Caroline’s eye, but then she had taken a couple of workshops with Gasali a few years ago and already owns a few pieces.
The center stack of bracelets is missing one now that Caroline bought it from the ladies at Wounaan Craft Group out of Colombia.
Out of Morocco, the women representing Cherry Buttons Cooperative sold Caroline this necklace.
Fariza Sheisheyeva and Svetlana Sheisheyeva of Art Group Saima from Kyrgyzstan sold us this exact piece of felted artwork this morning, our priciest acquisition at IFAM. If budget were of no concern, the work behind Caroline to the right would have been going home with us, but we have our limits.
And finally, Marie Alexandrine Rasoanantenaina of Tahiana Creations from Madagascar and her lovely daughter, who graced the cover of the IFAM 2022 program guide, sold us our first bits of vetiver root. If you’ve never smelled this stuff, it’s impossible to describe, but then again, so is the scent of strawberries.
Lessons learned from our first visit: 1. pace ourselves better so we don’t visit all the booths in an hour. 2. plan on catching some of the entertainment. 3. we must visit the museums. 4. buy tickets for all the days as there we last-minute things Caroline wanted to return one more time but found that Sunday morning entries were sold out. [Add one more: Read the artist stories and jot down if any stand out prior to our visit. I had avoided reading the artist’s write-ups ahead of time so I would not influence myself, but when I went through them later, I realized that I missed a couple. – Caroline]
After leaving Museum Hill, we were ready for our next adventure. Competing for our attention this weekend were visits to two national monuments because as important as fiber arts-related things are to Caroline, she also has yearnings for every junior ranger badge she can earn. Here we are on the Frey Trail at Bandelier National Monument after failing to heed the signs that advised us to take the shuttle from outside the park over to the visitors center. Considering the time of day, we feared we might miss the last shuttle out and decided to head directly to the park and try our luck. At the entry gate, the ranger allowed us to continue on to the Juniper Campground parking lot and wait for the next shuttle. At the shuttle stop, we spied the sign for the Frey Trailhead, which said the visitors center was 1.5 miles away; since the shuttle was about 30 minutes away according to the schedule, we figured we could get there around the same time from the look of the trail ahead.
Oh, it’s not just a relatively flat walk to the visitor’s center?
The view from the Tyuonyi Overlook as we start our steep descent to the valley below.
What an incredible way to enter the heart of the park! Such a lucky turn of fortuitous events that had us coming in this way.
Why is nothing looking familiar? Could it be that the last time we were here was back in 2003, and we were 19 years younger than we are now, with countless adventures between then and now to cloud our memories?
I can’t say I understand the dynamic at work when this motif was painted here at that point in history long ago. Why is this inset from the wall around it? If you look to the upper left of this image, there are remnants of plaster on the wall, and in the photo above this, you can still see plaster on the back walls. So, it’s not strange that walls are adorned with some type of decoration, but this one is inset; I’m confused.
Here we are out in Bandelier National Monument, only able to gaze upon a deep geographic history and a mostly unknowable cultural history that arrived in our age without a clear narrative. Science can tell us about the natural forces at work and the composition of minerals that laid the foundation of the environment, and clues from the ancestral Puebloans help create the fragmented story of those who once lived here, but I want more. What was it like to walk here before it was named Frijoles Canyon, back when the indigenous people building homes here nearly 1,000 years ago were busy living lives?
We use ladders to climb on high, or we don’t, and then return to cars that bring us to food and hotels. We who roam far and wide using machines and electronics are as far removed from these ancestors as purse dogs are from wolves. I want to look into their world, their view of nature, their diet, and how they laughed and loved. Instead, I allow myself mere minutes to glance over the things that are able to be seen, and in some instances, such as the ladder system ahead of me, I can only go so far before my fear of heights will stymie me.
Caroline, on the other hand is better at conquering her fear and ascends the ladders to the platform above. It turns out that 19 years ago, I, too, was able to make my way up there, which allowed me to capture a photo from within a rebuilt kiva that was still visitable back then. Regarding the tilt-shift effect of the image, I took this with my DSLR and have no idea what setting I accidentally hit as I snapped off three similar photos before I recognized the mode dial was not set correctly and switched back.
Hey, National Park Service, I would pay hundreds of dollars per day to sleep in one of those rooms up there, to sit in on a ceremony in a kiva, and to eat the foods that were eaten here a thousand years ago.
It was right here back in 2003 that Caroline sat in the same spot on a similar ladder as I took her photo. Little has changed other than we are aging but our curiosity and fascination are still running hard.
With the visitor center closing soon, Caroline had the briefest of times to plow through the Junior Ranger booklet and answer enough questions to now add this badge to her ever-expanding collection from all over the United States.
Twelve miles down the road but still, in a corner of Bandelier National Monument, we find this: the Tsankawi Ruins trail. We thought we’d skip this short 1.5-mile loop as we were already tired, but the idea of not seeing the seeable when we were right here in this corner of New Mexico seemed like we would have blown an opportunity.
And so we did, up the trail and up the ladder.
An amazing trail has been carved into the soft, porous rock of volcanic ash called tuff.
Maybe I should have tried the narrow passage on the left, but I opted for the “Alternative Route” to the right. Caroline took the steeper, narrow trail.
Up the ladder, I crawled to meet with Caroline again.
Atop the volcanic mesa, we strode, looking for the unexcavated ruins that cannot be seen on the horizon.
And the reason they were not seen is that they truly are ruins collapsed and covered by time.
Along the way, others have found hints from those who once lived here and, fortunately for all who visit, have left these treasures for others to witness.
Okay then, out here at the end of the mesa, some parts of the trail are starting to feel sketchy. Not that it isn’t well constructed, but it’s that old fear of heights thing again that’s making me nervous.
Too late to turn around and, anyway, I really do want to see what is ahead if for no other reason than to admire the genius of this path.
Who knows if others only occasionally stayed here, lived here, or offered it up to visitors arriving from other lands, but today, for nearly a whole minute, it was ours.
On the trail that brought us out here, we were wondering if we’d somehow missed the promised petroglyphs, but here they are.
A close-up from the right of the panel above.
Look closely at the right and left of the slot that’s barely a boot wide, and you can see the wear of hikers who straddle the trail; there are even deeper indentations one can step into in order to not wiggle through the narrow path.
Selfie time before things get hairier, and I don’t mean the length of my beard or ponytail.
This wasn’t the first section that I had to clamp down on my resolve to hike past a gut-clenching razor’s edge of terror. Our car is just out there in the distance; I was not thrilled about really entertaining ideas of a U-turn only to face the other pressure points all over again.
From the National Park Service website regarding the Tsankawi Ruins trail: ” It is not a hike recommended for people with a great fear of heights.” I can admit that it feels great to overcome my weaknesses.
Plus, there are rainbows at the end of the hike. So, I’m lying because we were already on our way back to Santa Fe when we pulled over to snap a photo before it quickly disappeared, but had I gone with my exaggeration, I think it would have made for a slightly better story.
Dinner was at the busy underground joint called El Fogata Grill. It was raining when we arrived, but of all the peculiar luck, we were able to park maybe three doors down from the entrance to this restaurant right in the old city center of Santa Fe, believe it or not. Our food was nothing to brag about; then again, that might have to do with what it was competing with our meal from earlier in the day.
International Folk Art and Meow Wolf
I don’t believe I’ve ever shared so many photos featuring Caroline in a single blog post; I’ve counted 16 of them below. Having stayed in Gallup, New Mexico, last night, we had a three-hour trek northeast to Santa Fe before today’s main event got underway. This random stop on the Laguna Reservation was used to break the fast and slake our growing hunger, and so it was, right here next to a sign warning us not to trespass, that we took our first meal of the day. Not another minute was wasted as we had important stuff ahead.
Parking ambiguities out of the way (which included driving 15 minutes away from Museum Hill, where the International Folk Art Market was being held after a two-year hiatus following COVID), we were on a bus heading right back to the event up on Museum Hill in Santa Fe, New Mexico. No exaggeration; I don’t believe we were here at IFAM more than five minutes before Caroline fell in love with this piece from Academia De Rebozo Mexiquense out of Tenancingo, Mexico. What appears to be a shawl is actually a rebozo and was designed by Carlos Amador Lopez Bringas, the gentleman on Caroline’s right who is also the owner of the company.
Next up was a rather pricey item Caroline felt heaps of guilt purchasing, but with only four bags at the market, it felt like this one might not last long. While she’s flat out in love with her current purse from CTTC, the Peruvian Textile Center in Cusco co-founded by Nilda Callañaupa Álvarez (more about her shortly), I felt like this one complimented Caroline’s current wardrobe and looked like nothing I’ve ever seen in Arizona. With a quick swipe of the card for nearly $500, my wife was going home with a handmade purse from the collective of craftspeople under the guidance of Gulnora Odilova from Shakhrisabz, located in southern Uzbekistan. The young lady posing with Caroline is Sugdiyona Omonova.
Indigo might have been Caroline’s middle name in a former life because she certainly has something for this deep blue hue. I’ve never seen her able to pass clothes dyed using this plant that apparently was first used about 6,000 years ago in Huaca Prieta, Peru. Standing next to Caroline and her new blouse is Aïssata Namoko from Mali. She is the soul behind Coopérative Djiguiyaso, offering textiles inspired by ancient Dogon tie-dye patterns from her home country.
Sadly, we are rushing through here as we purchased a pass that is for a timed entry lasting but three hours. The pass doesn’t expire per se, with authorities seeking to remove us from the grounds, but we are also trying to be considerate of the conditions that were set in order for this year’s IFAM to take place. Back when I made the reservations, I bought entry for both Friday and Saturday in case our few hours here on Friday were not enough. So, on one hand, as we fly through, we are content that tomorrow, we can return bright and early.
Of course, our return must be premised on the idea that we’ll still have money to buy other things, but at least for now, the frenzy has subsided. As first-time visitors, we had no real idea of what to expect, and the conditions of our entry were not encouraging to make a day of the festivities. Should we ever return, we’ll know better. What I’m referring to are the relatively poor food options that have a feeling of being from the county fair, meh. There were a couple of vendors with ethnic offerings, but instead of best representing the diversity of craftspeople on hand for authenticity, it felt to me as though things were aimed at a bunch of boring, somewhat wealthy old people who lack a certain something for culinary experimentation.
There was also a stage featuring live performances, but we didn’t check the schedule or give it a second glance as we had 164 vendors to familiarize ourselves with. And if we thought we’d just glide by some, people like Evah Mudenda of Ilala Palm Baskets from Zimbabwe dragged us in and wanted to show us her wares. Again and tragically, we didn’t feel comfortable stopping everywhere due to this time-restricted visit. Ultimately, we did learn that those restrictions would in no way be enforced, but leaving Phoenix with these ideas, we’d made plans for a timed entry for a different event this afternoon that I’ll be sharing just below.
Peru seems well represented today; this is the stall of Olinda Silvano Inuma de Arias, who is sharing designs known as Kené, an ancient art representing nature and the living culture of the Shipibo-Konibo people of the lower Amazon.
Caroline’s attention perked right up when she immediately recognized the bag and weaving style seen here; these are the makers of the purse she’s been carrying for years now. As she’s admiring the goods, she proudly pulls her bag forward, and a woman looks at it understanding right away its provenance. Sheepishly, Caroline points out that it needs repairs and that she should have already dealt with it, but the woman tells her to hand it to her, and she’ll repair it right here. A bit embarrassed, reluctant even, Caroline lets it go, and the woman takes off her felt hat to pull a needle from under the brim, just in case something like this should present itself, right? In a minute, the loose threads are sewn back in, and other than needing a good dry-cleaning, Caroline’s hand-woven purse is in better shape than when we arrived.
Caroline is gushing about the work of this collective known as Centro De Textiles Tradicionales Del Cusco of Peru. She’s pawing ponchos, blankets, and various textiles and is obviously so enamored with their work that I know we’ll be leaving with something from these ladies. It seems it’s the poncho, but the design of the blanket is so beautiful, too… But the poncho is so much more practical, so it’s settled, or is it? Go with the first thing that really grabbed you, which was actually a purse, though she didn’t like the zipper, so it was the poncho. After paying for it, I asked the ladies if we could get a photo with them so we could capture the moment and subsequently share these things here on my blog; they obliged us, obviously. As we are saying our goodbyes and thanks, someone else walks up asking for Nilda, the woman with the felt hat that fixed Caroline’s purse was pointed to. Oh yeah, her badge says just that. My wife had an emotional celebrity/mentor moment as she was dumbstruck that it was actually Nilda Callañaupa Álvarez herself whose hands did the work on her bag and is responsible for bringing the women’s work of Peru’s weavers to the attention of the world.
And with that, it was time for us to catch the shuttle back to our car so we could make our next appointment. Good thing we’ll be back tomorrow at 9:00 as this was certainly far too rushed. I should mention that there are four individual museums here that will all have to wait for a subsequent visit for us to spend time in.
Meow, is anyone home here at this bowling alley turned something altogether different?
We have entered the peculiar world of the Meow Wolf, knowing nearly nothing of what to expect for our $45-per-person price of admission. I’ve heard great word-of-mouth reports and wild enthusiasm from those who know of it; even Caroline’s boss highly recommended it, but come on $45? This better be great.
While this wasn’t for me, Caroline jumped right in, donning the protective gloves to hunt through these uranium glass pellets, looking for a specific one that is supposed to be glowing at 553 nanometers and that, if found, can be used to open a secret passage but you only have one chance. Sadly, her myopia didn’t allow her to pick the right one, even with my loud encouragement telling her exactly where it was. The time limit is in place so players don’t suffer from radiation burns.
This fossil mammoth skull was found in the Ural Mountains near Mount Narodnaya in the Khanty–Mansi Autonomous Okrug of Tyumen Oblast, Russia, only 0.5 km to the east of the border of the Komi Republic. During the Soviet era, scientists discovered that the extinct ice-age herbivores of the area had been eating grasses that only grew over deposits of uranium, which was how they discovered the material Russia was to use in the nuclear weapons. This rare luminous fossil, now part of Meow Wolf, is of significance for solving the puzzle that has been wittily crafted here.
How is anyone supposed to figure these things out? The value of the Scrabble letters is 40; when you hold up four fingers on your left hand and make a zero with your right in front of the gray camera, the flash will blink a Morse code message that you need to get to the next clue. Seriously, Meow Wolf?
Obviously, we figured it out because Caroline’s sitting on this bench.
We interviewed nearly a dozen people passing by here trying to figure out how to swing from one of the vines to a balcony that will appear once enough weight is hanging from the vine, but I’m 59 years old and not sure I have the upper body strength to attempt Tarzan moves without a safety net so we skipped this part.
Damnit, Caroline, you’ll get E. coli poisoning or COVID trying this chicken that’s been sitting there for how long and touched or licked by how many others before you?
We stood here for close to 45 minutes while the acid had us peaking, and the entire scene was a dripping puddle of multi-colored flowing lines and throbbing fluorescence.
Be sure you know what you’re doing because once you’ve entered one door, the dimension on the other side may not allow you to pass through from whence you came; we learned this the hard way. Beware the camper.
I told you, portals don’t always go well.
I can’t tell you with any certainty that the telepathic intrusion I believe was real actually came from this rat that told me that this construct right here is the brain and utility that operates this entire facility and that with this knowledge I was given means that the co-founder of Meow Wolf Matt King was going to have to die the following day. Sure enough, Mr. King passed away on July 9th, the day after our visit; he was only 37 years old.
While I was mind-melding with a rat, Caroline claims she emerged from this lavender creature that belched her out like a whale spitting out kayakers. As she tells it, after walking through the camper, her path took her into the entrails of a moist tunnel of peculiar humming and singing that appeared to emanate from a rodent-like thing until she found herself here hugging this frog thing or whatever it was.
In the viewfinder of our Instamatic camera, we were black and white, and the background was colorful. This place is working on some kind of magic level that is nothing short of baffling.
That thing could beg all it wanted to; we were not going to crawl into its hole.
The payoff for enduring the blistering hot rays was that by waving your hands and arms; you were able to play this ethereal music. Maybe they should warn visitors not to try playing this invisible instrument with their eyes before they enter.
By now, we are growing bored; just look at how meaningless this is.
I lied; one cannot be bored after being turned into a blue midget Oompa Loompa. How’d they do that?
No, we won’t enter your holes either.
Did you forget to look in the teapot, the cupboard, or under the table?
Truth.
If you are not precisely 5 foot 6 and 1/4th inches tall (168.275 centimeters), you will not see the optical illusion here. This photo that does not represent what one would see at the right height was only allowed to be shared on the condition that I don’t post the truth.
Lost in the forest of dendrites that press out of the mind of earth, or was this another one of those moments where my camera captured the hallucination brought on by the mushroom/acid cocktail we tossed back an hour ago?
This is a holographic projection sampled using an X-ray technique that allows for the visualization of the inside of your lower intestine, sphincter, and, in this case, Caroline’s collection of hemorrhoids. Yep, that’s what it looks like up my wife’s butt.
Who is laughing now, wife?
It’s not every day one is offered the opportunity to play the ribcage of a glowing monster, but when it does happen, you must be at Meow Wolf.
We’ve entered the teleportation vehicle with its quantum wave flux elliptical centrifuge that will spit us back out into reality as; apparently, we were not tasty enough to forever remain in the belly of this former bowling alley. Fine, we certainly got our $45 of value and are ready for some fresh air and maybe food.
This, unfortunately, placed sign might be good for traffic, but the sense of admonishment it shouts at us not to enter Cafe Pasqual’s New Mexican restaurant is going to have to be ignored. Our reservation at the community table was for the second they opened. We’ve lost track of how many visits we’ve made to this Santa Fe landmark, and once again, we’ll leave satisfied.
Did we get stuffed? Is the Pope Catholic? Does he shit in the woods? Only if he’s hanging out at Meow Wolf I suppose, though who really knows? Anyway, I’m not here to talk about the bowel movements of the holy pontiff; we are out for a walk under the setting sun, trying to work off some of the gorging we inadvertently did.
Oh, look, pretty flowers.
Santa Fe is nothing if not a city of art. We are in front of Keen Contemporary, where our friend Dion Terry has pieces on display and for sale. Unfortunately, they were closed during our visit, but at least we could spot one of his works there just right of center, the bird in a white frame.
Why isn’t this stuff in Meow Wolf?
Art would be the only reason Caroline and I should have purchased a large house, so we could fill every corner with groovy things that would make us smile as we discovered other things in corners we’d forgotten we bought.
Does this look like something people who stay at Motel 6 would buy? Well, we are staying over at that $70-a-night place, and I swear that if this giant snail fit in our apartment, we’d so take it home with us, price be damned.
Trip 13 Going to New Mexico
It’s not even been 72 hours since we returned from our 4th of July jaunt to Utah, and we are already bouncing right back out, this time to Santa Fe, New Mexico. Right now, it’s only 8:00 in the morning, and I pulled into the coffee shop to race through prepping a few more photos from last weekend and jot down the beginning of another departure. At the moment, I don’t have a firm idea of what time we’ll be leaving Phoenix as Caroline has to finish her work day, but I’d guess that we’ll hit the road somewhere between 3:00 and 5:00. Our plan has us driving to Gallup, New Mexico, this afternoon, but if we can go further, that’d be terrific. So, with this first note of the day in the bag, it’s time to turn my attention to completing a few more photos before making my way home to pack.
Caroline was ready at 3:00 p.m., but this time, I was running behind because I had the bright idea at 2:15 to take advantage of a sale that Verizon had just sent to me. I had less than 72 hours to respond to an $800 discount on a new Samsung S22 Ultra phone upgrade. Normally, I’d be getting $35 in trade for my old S9+ (I know this because I checked a month ago), so I went through the motions, and the new phone should be in Monday’s mail.
With that business out of the way, I picked up the wife, and at 3:30, we made our way to Starbucks in Fountain Hills and then turned on the BeeLine highway towards Payson. Deja vu was in effect as we were on the exact same route, only in reverse, that we just drove on Monday. It was already 6:00 p.m. when I flipped the blinker to turn north on Highway 277, in the direction of Holbrook, when I blurted out that we should pull a quick U-turn and have dinner at this place we’ve often passed but never had stopped. With low expectations, we did just that.
Al & Diane’s Red Onion Lounge in Heber-Overgaard was our dinner stop. This iconic and “Famous” roadside joint has been here forever and was exactly what we expected: a slightly different version of our favorite old haunt in Phoenix that was once known as Wagon Yard. With the evening’s vittles out of the way, we could continue on into the late day.
I thought we might make it to Grants, New Mexico, tonight, but with 60 miles left, we opted for our original destination of Gallup, New Mexico. We found a cheap room at EconoLodge for the low-low price of only $59; this was likely the best deal we were going to get. We have a 3-hour drive ahead of us in the morning, meaning we’ll be getting up with the rising sun so we can be on the road by 6:00 a.m.
Freedom and Independence on the 4th of July
Independence Day out in a space that allows an extraordinary amount of freedom and independence to be had; that’s where we are. Nothing consumed, not a lot desired, and very little purchased is how we travel into this day, which in some way mirrors our lives at home. We comfortably find ourselves in a vast landscape, trying to interpret a horizon without easy markers or signs to guide us into the unfamiliar, and that’s okay.
Is Independence Day still a celebration of our freedom from tyranny or simply the faint recollection of historic events that paved the way for some idealistic notions? Certain declarations and amendments have come to stand in for whatever the thoughts might have been surrounding a collective sense of being free Americans, but are two or three fragments the extent of what independence means? Why do so many find our constitutional declarations ensconced in law to be tenuous at best and in need of constant anxious lament as though at any moment they will be ripped from the clutch of patriots who apparently are the only truly aware Americans? I’m afraid that this nervous energy and a constant refrain that everything America stands for is on the brink of being torn away is a toxic salve bringing infection to a wound exploited by hyperbolic political shysters, modern-day media snake oil salesmen, and pundit quacks who are not expert in anything other than terror.
People stuck in paradigms of the past appear most susceptible to fear and deception that exploits their unenlightened minds. Maybe they are broken and undereducated due to an indoctrination that made them slaves to a jingoistic and overzealous dogma from which they are now unable to break free. How, then, are those people free or independent? They are not; they are like this broken-down, rusting jalopy that is not going anywhere. Put a TV in front of this car, and you are effectively seeing many of my fellow citizens: frozen by gravity, useless, a relic from a past that failed to maintain any kind of momentum that might have allowed them to glide into the present and hopefully the future too.
I should offer up some details regarding this day that actually pertains to our trip from Utah that will take us home to Phoenix, Arizona, today. We woke in Blanding, a small town with a population of just under 3,600 people, and headed south. The sandstone bluff in the second photo is at the edge of the town of Bluff that we visited at the end of May; the car at the Cow Canyon Trading Post is also in Bluff. This wall fragment was at one time either part of a dwelling or maybe a storage area. I spotted it from the road, and it begged us to pay a visit. From here, we traveled toward Montezuma Creek and Aneth on our way to a special crossroads in the middle of nowhere.
Nowhere is where I live my best life, where nothing I own is strewn before or around me. All I can do is look upon the nothingness that embodies everything and has an intrinsic value exceeding the things that might be considered mine. When this wash is running it feeds into the San Juan River, which is the green spot out in the distance of this photo. For countless years, the rains have come and gone and, on occasion, left enough moisture that the streambed carved itself into the landscape. On this particular day, its path is evidenced by the green S curve starting in the foreground. The hand of nature out here has been employing the engineering forces of natural processes to build the most elegant of places that I will ever witness while standing at this particular place on State Route 162 located in San Juan County, Utah. So, now I’ve been everywhere and seen everything where nothing existed until I embued it with all the appreciation and value of someone able to find things meaningful while exploring the freedom of independence to do such things.
We had to stop here in Montezuma Creek, Utah, to admire the artwork of the students at Whitehorse High School who, when not exploring their creativity, are locked in classrooms being indoctrinated into believing that what they are being forced to learn will deliver them from the wretched poverty in which many of their parents exist. The cruel dichotomy here is that these kids are learning just enough to have them either conform or fail and likely relinquish themselves to systems that will exploit their incarceration. Without hope of further real education, they will languish in meager subsistence jobs not far from where they are growing up and never know the freedom of independence that the United States claims is a key part of our cultural DNA. Native Americans, like many minorities that can’t afford participation, are tossed by the wayside of something less than nothing, a place without hope or the ability to interpret what riches they might have if they were seriously knowledgable about truths. These truths are simply the idea that freedom is a state of mind afforded by removing oneself from the struggle of just surviving abject poverty, and this is where real education comes to bear.
I need to make clear here that my focus is not lamenting the situation of the poor, minorities, or other disadvantaged groups; the system is stacked against them, and they do what they can with the little they have. My real complaint is about those who have the means to be free and independent but are simultaneously deeply entrenched in their intellectual stagnation and being the loudest about their fear of what they claim is being stolen from them, which is absolutely nothing.
We cannot contain the ocean, the sun, or the wind, and we are fairly adept at controlling the river, bringing light to darkness, and giving ourselves the ability to move quickly over the surface of the planet, but we are absolute masters of bringing totalitarian enslavement upon the minds of the masses who are terrified to lose their shelter, sustenance, and social standing in a broken community of lonely souls drunk on the desire for out-of-reach riches that never offered real happiness to anyone in the first place. Love is the water that is supposed to flow down the river of life and through our communities, but we’ve created a drought by selling false dreams to people who will likely never know better and must endure the suffering of unfulfilled lives while we who have it all always get more. For us, the river is a deluge that welcomes us to grow more, secret away these precious resources so they may always be there for us; all the while, we pity those who supposedly won’t help themselves as we are oblivious to how systems are stacked against the ill-educated.
Aneth, Utah, is indicative of the disappearance of hope and opportunity, a place where the freedom to survive on ancestral lands is bulldozed by the allure of a fake image of life delivered by TV, the internet, and video games. In the past 20 years, Aneth has seen its population shrink by 139 people, and while that may not sound significant, consider that this means the town went from 598 people down to 459 for a loss of 1 in 4 Anethians. This is obviously a tragic situation for the local Navajo population since a town that is disappearing from the map has to support an elementary school that pays its senior teachers $80,000 a year and is apparently only working to catapult their children to places elsewhere.
With the intrusion of sham dreams of wild success that can be easily had in America’s big cities, the traditions of a community are shattered as fresh transplants crash into the cold reality of life in the uncaring environment of the metropolis. The broken young souls either fall to the wayside or return to the old town, contributing to its decay and their own dissatisfaction. This is not independence or freedom; it is planned disenfranchisement, obsolescence, cultural obliteration, and oppression. Aneth represents just 1 of 110 Navajo communities that are likely in similar predicaments. Now consider that by land area, the Navajo Nation is as large as the Netherlands and Belgium combined, but the GDPs of these two countries add up to almost $1.5 trillion compared to just $12.8 billion of economic activity on the largest Indian reservation in the United States; this is not an accident.
Sure, this is a poor comparison when one thinks that in Belgium and the Netherlands, the combined population is 29 million people strong in contrast to the Navajo Nation’s anemic 173,000 people, but in a country like the United States that has intentionally worked to disadvantage Native Americans, one might think we as a country could do better to honor those who have paid so much by suffering near total annihilation. Stop a moment and think of this: in Texas, 3.3 million people receive state aid, and nearly 2.8 million in Florida do too. Are we really a country of people who love independence and freedom that helps foster healthy communities and citizens, or are we a bunch of gun-loving nutjob individualists afraid of a tyrannical boogeyman created by marginalized megalomaniacs who become wealthy on this dissatisfaction, thus monopolizing another part of people’s vulnerability?
So, let’s all just look out on the horizon and refuse to see what we don’t want to see anyway. We are, after all, free to do exactly just what we want to do, even at the expense of sustaining a thriving nation. At one time, we were a union, not only that, we were trying to form a perfect union in order to establish our nation of the United States. Today, we are millions of individuals oblivious to our real role as neighbors willing to defend each other, help one another, and stand together. But the blue skies of optimism have been clouded over not exclusively by those in power but by all of us, the “We the people” part of all of us, because we are no longer we. This is a country of us and them. So on this 4th of July, which should be a joyous moment recognizing the accomplishments of a great country, we should bow down in respect of a dream that is dissipating like so many thin clouds on a hot day.
But that is not the America Caroline and I choose to live in. Our America is one of dreams and ideals where we’ve carved out just enough and seized the opportunity to find our way into a dream, though I’m not sure it resembles the idea of the bigger American Dream. You see, we are selfish, greedy, and maybe a bit isolated. We are selfish because we no longer buy into needing things like large homes, expensive cars, a vast wardrobe, or the other trappings of conspicuous consumption. We are greedy as we save money, predominately cook at home, set our thermostat higher, and save from not participating with subscriptions to frivolous services. We are isolated due to being avid readers, not owning a television, not playing golf, or rooting for sports franchises of any sort.
We’ve chosen our own path that recognizes our limitations to earn more and more. We’ve seen that those with more of all and nearly everything are rarely living profound and joyful lives. We understand that a chance encounter with someone less fortunate will likely offer us a more meaningful experience than listening to someone feeding us details about some celebrity, indignation regarding a politician of any persuasion, or their latest acquisition they believe enhances their position in the hierarchy of accomplishments.
We stand mostly alone with our ideals carrying dreams from a bygone era that if you ventured out into your country and into yourself, you might find experiential riches that would define you as a real explorer, a real American, a person living a life well lived. We still adhere to these ideas towering overhead as aspirations that are meant to be embraced. Caroline just recently became an American citizen and did so with tears in her eyes as she knows firsthand what is possible, but sadly, it is only because we had to separate ourselves from the masses defined by a lot of nothing, masses who don’t know the real American Dream and are angry that they are living in dystopian nightmares of their own creation.
Just stop a second and look at this: we are living the adage extolled in the Declaration of Independence regarding Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Happiness. We are free under our current system to find just those things; nobody is trying to take anything from us, but we must be willing to give to ourselves and adapt to a changing world. Our founding fathers never envisioned a day when people would travel at 60 mph over land in air-conditioned vehicles, take photos of exquisite detail, and call ahead to a restaurant in the middle of a desert to verify their hours, but that’s what we do, and all that’s required is to continue changing with the times.
These bags of flour will not make themselves into a cake, bagels, or the Navajo frybread it is likely destined to become. Someone else will have to transform it; the flour will be altered by the addition of other ingredients, be they savory or sweet; the point is that these constituent parts will see their chemistry changed but still won’t be done until they find their way into a transitional form of having been cooked. And though the flour and that which was added will become food, it will then need to be consumed to act as nourishment. Maybe a grandmother made a cake, a dad made his kids pancakes on a Sunday morning, or a husband and wife are making frybread next to the road and loading it with roast mutton for passersby, such as my wife and me. This act of change and preparation is what will sustain those who benefit from the efforts of a community. This parable is what a nation, a people, a country of united souls does for one another, but we’ve lost sight of the basic ingredients right in front of us. Instead, we are pissed off when we must deal with the investment of effort to transform things on our own because the 20-layer cake isn’t being spoon-fed to us when we want it.
Do not be a petulant bulwark against your own motion forward, happiness, or accomplishment. Nothing is really standing in your way besides yourself. Your intransigence to see your way around minor obstacles blinds you and steals your vision to find what is just beyond the rock called self. Caroline and I are not perfect examples of growing beyond limitations, but in these moments of exploring our own freedom and independence, we get to take sight of the astonishing vistas of our vast country and consider how fortunate we are to have broken free of the shackles of unattainable lives of perfection sold by those snake oil salesmen, quacks, charlatans, con artists, and cheaters who have sold far too many Americans nothing but anguish by blaming others for what they are missing.
Nothing has been stolen from you aside from what you gave away. If you look into the window of the TV screen and witness the magic of incredible perfection, maybe you are already selling yourself on self-delusion. The horizon is not painted in gold, but it is embued with riches of wonder if you know how to see what you were never told was valuable. America is the dream; our freedom to venture into ourselves has never been denied, but the fortitude of the pioneer requires us to surmount obstacles, and in a modern age, that means we must clamber over our own ignorance and fear of failure.
Initially, the road may not be paved, and we might struggle to determine the direction we need to take if there is no one to guide us; such is the task of the relentless fighter intent on carving a way forward. When the destination is not obvious, we are presented with our own wherewithal to make decisions and choices that might harm us as well as deliver us.
It’s bumpy out here, and what if you can’t easily find what sustains you? You keep going forward and shut up, as being a stoic is at the heart of being American. If you believe you deserve to be called a citizen of the United States, a real American, you push forward against the odds that will feel stacked against you, but in this age, it is no longer the brute force of strength that will propel you, it is what you’ve fed your mind, your education, and the opportunity you must work hard at to empower you. The easy way is for losers, they stay behind and wait for others to pave a trail instead of making the arduous journey themselves. We do not choose to stay at home watching the game, firing up the barbecue, or tossing back a beer today; we venture out to explore unknown spaces and risk learning about something that may not be initially obvious as to what value it gave us. Still, we seize the moment and embrace our radical freedom to be everywhere, anywhere, and nowhere.
Ah, the proverbial cake is served in the form of a roast mutton sandwich on frybread. We have pulled into Chinle, Arizona, on the Navajo Nation, and it is here at an anonymous dirt lot where it might not be apparent to those driving by that a loose grouping of trucks and a few trailers is actually a small flea market. Hoping I’d get lucky to find what my deepest desires want right now, I creep over the bumpy lot, slowly driving past tables and vehicles until my eye caught a truck and trailer looking like they were offering hot food. While Caroline grabs the last dish of roast mutton deluxe with corn on the cob, potato, and green chili (which I’ll help myself to), I opt for the roast mutton sans frybread (it’s a diabetes thing) and am now being delivered to a state of sheepy nirvana.
What wasn’t at the market but was found in the parking lot of a gas station was a husband and wife selling pickle dillies, which we’ve also seen offered as picadillies. Salty, sour, and sweet isn’t everyone’s cup of yummy, but my wife isn’t everyone, so the idea of having a snowcone of tiger’s blood, banana, and black cherry syrup with layers of pickles is the perfect summer treat for her. As for me, yeah, that diabetes thing again. I’ll hold out for the possibility I might find more roast mutton further down the road. If you don’t try what you don’t know, you’ll never know what you didn’t know, and you’ll only have yourself to blame for a life not lived well.
Freedom and independence are choices in a land where they are guaranteed, but you’ll have to muster some resolve to risk your sense of certainty and put away your biases. Are your mind and imagination open like the sky on a summer day, or are you locked in the dungeon of hate and resentment that others are living the life you believe you deserve yet are unable to budge from your obstinacy to grab? I’d like to reiterate that Caroline and I are not special; we are simply willing to go out, look, savor, and participate in things that are not a normal part of our routine. We give ourselves permission to step out of our comfort zone, and yet we keep finding great comfort in discovering something new and exciting where others might find nothing.
I need to stop a moment and consider things I don’t know, such as the thoughts that might arise here at the Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site. This building is here because 158 years ago, the people of the Navajo Nation were force-marched over 300 miles from their native lands to a small reservation in eastern New Mexico. This act of human cruelty left deep scars on the Diné (Navajo), and why wouldn’t it? Forces representing the United States, along with disease and famine, killed more than a quarter of their population. So I can’t tell you how I might see the world and my opportunity in it if I came from an oppressed people. Regarding this trading post, it’s here because after the Long Walk, as the forced march is known, and the people returned to this land, trading posts were opened across the Navajo Nation as the U.S. government tried to support the Navajo in getting back on their feet.
This idea of trauma hindering the ability to move lives forward is obviously a touchy one that various ethnic and religious groups have had to contend with throughout time, but I can’t help but take inspiration from Jewish people, especially those who survived World War II. Roughly 33% of the global population of Jews died between 1933 and 1945 at the hands of the Nazis while their history of persecution for centuries prior is well known, and so their resilience to bounce back following the 2nd world war is nothing short of admirable. Tenacity to get past adversity seems to pay dividends, and while not all people are alike, there’s a lesson to be learned from not only people of the Jewish faith but maybe the Mormons, too. But I’m not here to dissect the minutiae of persecuted and oppressed people or to bring into context the barbarity of various societies over the course of history; I’m more interested in the valuable lessons learned. The most important of those lessons seems to me to be that bad, horrible, atrocious acts of cruelty are perpetrated on people from all walks of life, but the ability to stop the victimization thinking and lingering in despair is key to moving forward.
This positive way ahead applies to all of us as it seems that some relative majority of humans have suffered at the hands of neglect, abuse, lack of opportunity, bullying, condemnation, or some other bias that has negatively impacted lives. You see these Navajo woven baskets hanging upside-down here at the Hubbell Trading Post? This is considered bad in Navajo lore as baskets are used to hold important things such as food, and hanging them up in this way means they cannot serve their purpose and act in the capacity for which they were created It doesn’t always have to be this way and maybe someday they’ll be removed from the ceiling and restored to a position where, even if they never act as working baskets again, they’ll be on display and respected as what they were intended to be. People have to take themselves away from a position of remaining empty and restore their purpose. We are containers of important things such as knowledge, experience, and love, we should work together to develop our carrying capacity. We cannot relegate our function and utility to forces that only desire the sea of humanity to fill the role that brings fortune to a select few and not ourselves.
Think of this display as the face of humanity: we are pictures, baskets, pots, vessels, clothes, books, and rugs, things that all have great value, treasures if you will. When all these things are brought together, they are impressive in their magnificence, and we can easily recognize their collectibility. All of these things have something in common: someone with specific skills labored over each object to imbue them with form, particular characteristics, knowledge, artistic qualities, and every combination of those attributes that lends beauty and purpose to them. People are exactly the same, but we’ve lost sight of that as we’ve reduced individuals to being merely a thread, a particle of sand, a piece of wood pulp without real value, as though they were only a tiny constituent part of something bigger. This is plain wrong as we are all potentially fully formed artworks, fonts of wisdom, inspirations for others, and beacons of light that will lend skills and aesthetic grace to the next generation who can benefit from sharing if we don’t forget that we all have something worth offering each other.
The land is the surface we all dwell upon; the tree shares its durability and strength to give us shelter, comfort, tools, food, and heat. In the case of this hogan, the earth is also the roof that protects us from the elements. With basic sheltering needs cared for, we can turn our attention to our other needs, such as growing food, but in modern society, that is often available as a convenience at a nearby grocery store where the variety exceeds almost anything we might produce for ourselves. If those necessities are the minimum that is met, we must turn our attention to decorating ourselves and our environment. In earlier societies that meant painting and adorning ourselves, embellishing the walls of our dwelling, filling the air with our song and the music of our instruments. In modernity, while many are still occupied with the brand of clothes, makeup, size of a television, type of car, or cult objects turned into fetishized commodities such as phones, bikes, or handbags, the real element of total importance is how we enrich the internal world of our mind.
The exterior of your home, the entryway into that space, and the things that accentuate the appearance of places all carry little weight when it comes to what you bring to how you will see the world when standing before the multitude of situations you are ill-equipped to understand if you are willing to venture into the liminal.
Two-hundred forty-six years ago, in 1776, humanity required a document to express the need for freedom and declare independence as the greed and brutality of a ruling class that was busy owning other people in various forms of servitude or had yoked their subjects in rules and taxes that proved that souls and bodies had been conquered reached a breaking point. It would be 90 years after that and only after a civil war that those who might otherwise claim enlightenment were vanquished, and their ideas of slavery would start to be arrested. One hundred years after that and only one year after I was born, the Civil Rights Act was signed into law. With this knowledge of the glacial pace of change, I suppose reluctantly that the recognition of the importance of the freedom of mind space and the necessity of knowledge acquisition won’t be a larger issue of societal imperative before 2065, when I’m long dead. It’s tragic how slow we are to come full circle.
The human is but a vessel. It is this idea of us carrying the dreams, aspirations, inventions, covenants, tools, traditions, and love that we should honor this maxim instead of trying to squash it, which I feel we are doing at this time. While we cannot know with any certainty who our distant relatives were 10,000 years ago, I believe that although life might have been fraught with quite difficult struggles, they understood freedom and independence in ways that transcend anything we believe we know. Circumstances would have dictated radically different approaches to survival, but reliance on family, community, and the wisdom of those with life skills would have been paramount. Today, we proverbially throw the weak to the wolves; we cast them to the street and into existences that bring such despair that the only way to survive is through substance abuse, violence, and ultimately an early death. Our compassion for one another is less than we might place on rare and valuable objects such as this old Navajo basket.
Please do not correct me by giving examples of those who help one another, the individuals who succeeded against the odds, or the various programs designed to alleviate these issues. We know full well that ignorance locks the unfortunate in systems and paradigms they are unable to escape from. It is only with concerted efforts to pry them free of their own darkness that they have a chance at finding greater value from within.
Take these three clay vessels of Navajo creation and design; today, they are likely worth more than $20,000, but sitting on this shelf, their value is merely theoretical. Someone must fall in love with them and recognize what they represent, and then if they are so fortunate, they might find a way to acquire them for their own home, but if they are truly magnanimous, they will donate them to a museum for all of humanity to enjoy into the future. Imagine if society as a whole was so generous.
The three Diné women offered a generous and friendly embrace in taking the time to share in our enthusiasm for the native culture out here in Ganado, Arizona, and the history of the Navajo Nation as an outpost and container for the traditions of their ancestors. Caroline is once again sworn in as a Junior Ranger, but this time, it was after learning more about the lives of Ganado Mucho, who was the 12th signer of the U.S.-Navajo Treaty of 1868 that ended the captivity of Navajo following the Long Walk. We learned of John Lorenzo Hubbell (known as the “Old Mexican”), who in 1878 started this trading post whose success in part relied on the friendship of Ganado Mucho. Hubbell, who had learned to speak Navajo, had the distinct advantage of being able to better share and communicate with the survivors of atrocities that risked erasing the people of these lands, and with that ability and knowledge, he helped establish trade in Navajo crafts that allowed the post to remain an important location into the 1960s when the National Park system took over operations. Had the Fred Harvey company taken over Hubbell, it might very well have been turned into a tourist attraction similar to the “Friendly Indian” places along historic Route 66, selling imported “hand-made” jewelry and plastic tomahawks. Today, we had an opportunity to peer into history and understand a little more about the changes our ancestors wrought upon the indigenous people of North America due to the empathy of a governmental body responsible for preserving not only nature but knowledge too. If you wonder if I’m contradicting myself, nothing is ever black and white, as people, governments, and cultures should all be evolving if they are to remain healthy. Just because mistakes are made every day, this doesn’t imply they can’t be rectified as our knowledge grows.
So there isn’t “nothing” out here in the middle of nowhere. There is everything that embodies the potential of people to find what they don’t yet know, to discover that freedom and independence emerge from wide open spaces that encourage people to learn what they’ve not found. First, people mustn’t be afraid of the apparent emptiness that their ignorance casts as something evil, hostile, or in need of being conquered by force; it is simply the unknown that, with time, is knowable. It is the wandering in open spaces that speaks of the greatest freedom and begs visitors to fill that apparent void with the truth of reality that exists everywhere.
The ideas regarding freedom and independence might seem like a rock impervious to the folly of fools, but it is precisely the fools that erode the structures that hold together the mountains of society and culture. Humanity is at a juncture on the map of our future to harness the potential of people to do good, or we can turn and do bad and erase all the beauty we could preserve if we chose to understand how fragile the most important things are. Happy 4th of July! On this day, we celebrate our opportunity to experience freedom and this incredible independence while being stewards of such important ideas.