Observatories and Observations

Duncan, Arizona

When the heights of happiness are potentially infinite, the opposing depths are likely equally distant. We strive to reach the heavens as though there are riches to be found in what lies out of reach, but do we care to consider the breadth of unhappiness many struggle to get out of? How deep have the many traveled, and how few grasp at just how distant the important things are that might always be out of reach? The pious among us will claim to care for those around us and use doctrine as proof that they are commanded to act on their brother and sister’s behalf. Yet, we continue to swirl around the drain of our own ignorance, blind to the violence inflicted on the masses when poor education, fear, and dangerous mythologies guide them into our modern existence. Figuratively speaking, the paint is chipping off the old system, and it’s time to renovate and revitalize the most important part of the American experience: our collective education that helps inform how we perceive life around us.

Duncan, Arizona

Our escape from the blistering 118-degree heat (48c) of Phoenix took us 200 miles east to the town of Duncan, Arizona, elevation 3,652 feet (1,113 meters), but that wasn’t quite good enough. At 10,469 feet (3,191 meters), the temperature promised to be much cooler, about 35 degrees lower than the distant desert below, but it wasn’t only the pleasant climes we’d find on the mountaintop to which we were heading after our first night in Duncan. We’ve been sitting on reservations to visit the Mt. Graham International Observatory (MGIO) since February, and today is the day we get to take advantage of them.

Duncan, Arizona

These excursions, you should know by now, are not always about seeing as much as they are about understanding. To begin with, we are visiting the facility in the middle of the day instead of in the evening when most of the observation is taking place. Second, this is monsoon season in Eastern Arizona, and many of the researchers are away because in the heat of summer, observations are not as ideal as they are on dry winter days. So, while we’ll be gazing upon the telescopes and learning more about their function, we’ll not be gazing upon the stars or listening in on the frequencies of the symphony the universe is creating. This then lends itself to a purely intellectual exercise of understanding instead of gobbling up a bucket of eye candy that I believe many visitors will expect.

Mt Graham in the Pinaleño Mountains near Safford, Arizona

Please keep in mind that we are aware of these limitations, and yet it was still worth the 400-mile roundtrip and $75 per person cost. You should then be able to surmise that many of our travels are not purely for the visual aesthetic qualities we’ll gather but for what we can learn about ourselves or others. True, sometimes that learning is a reinforcement of our shared love while we lollygag through the woods, but often, time is spent searching to discover more about this thing called life and our relationship to it.

Mt Graham in the Pinaleño Mountains near Safford, Arizona

This is the Columbine Visitor Center here in the Pinaleño Mountains just below Mt. Graham, known to Native Americans of the area as Dził Nchaa Sí’an – Big Seated Mountain. We are taking a lunch break before making our way up the final stretch to where the observatories are located.

Mt Graham in the Pinaleño Mountains near Safford, Arizona

The potential worlds that might exist far away in the distant corners of our universe might hold more interest to many than wondering about the galaxy in which a pollinator exists. I walked over to the meadow (pictured below) to take a photo of this yellow ragwort flower, and while I have better-focused specimens, I don’t have another with a bee flying in to fetch hive supplies. That bee is a forager; its job is to collect pollen, nectar, and water. When its work is done, it will return the goods to the hive, where others will pick up the pieces and perform their respective tasks while the forager rests. The hive is in constant motion and is an essential spoke in the ecosystem of life far beyond the place it calls home. If the bees could tell us their story of mapping the world around them, fending off predators, raising baby bees, tending to the health of the hive, acting as heaters and air-conditioners, and waiting on their queen, maybe we could better empathize with their struggle for life and do our part to ensure the health of an environment that remains supportive of their colonies.

The hive can be seen as a microcosm of our own world where the queen bee is our planet. The queen lives 52 times longer than a worker bee, whose life is a brief five weeks on average. Put in human terms, as we live to be about 80 years old, our queen mothers would live for about 4,160 years comparatively. Give me a moment with this poetic license. What I mean to show is that a worker bee born today on July 15, 2023, will be dead by September 1st, 2023, but is working for the health and welfare of a queen bee that will be producing other bees, maybe 30, 40, or 50 generations into the future. Now bring this back to our human scale: a woman gives birth to a child, and now we must care for this mother as she’ll be around in the year 5,000, looking over her children and siblings we’ll never know. What might we change about our consumption and pollution if we knew that our mothers should thrive as their life extends thousands of years into the future?

Mt Graham in the Pinaleño Mountains near Safford, Arizona

From a recent note taken on the verge of sleep:

Negotiating the waters of stupidity while in casual conversation, we are often dragged into the shallow end of the gene pool and drowned in the sea of banality.

I understand that there are times when the folly of silly thought is de rigeur for bringing levity and mindlessness to a moment, allowing great comfort often found in laughter to take over some of the pressures encountered in the day, but this begs for an answer to the question, “When do we delve into the depths of consideration of ideas that are uncomfortable?”

As Bertrand Russell once said, “In all affairs, it’s a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted.”

Shall we all aspire to become dry, loquacious scepters of nerdity, converting scientific theory and philosophy into binary speak in order to dazzle those of lesser minds? That would be a mendacious accounting of what I’m seeking. My goal in the lamentation of what I perceive to be stupid is nothing more than begging others to show a modicum of curiosity beyond what is already fully familiar to their staid routines. Again, we can consider this thought from Bertrand Russell and put a question mark at the end of what we state we like and do.

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

Just as the various telescopes at MGIO look for clues arriving from the vast expanse of time, we, too, can look for hints about ourselves as we survey the world around us. The great thing about humans is that we require no special equipment, optics, or particular places high in the mountains to look within. We have our senses, but maybe the one great piece of sophisticated equipment that is missing is an inquisitive mind to process any of it. I cannot quantify the quality of mind secreted in my skull, but with the little, I believe I know, I can take stabs into the darkness to pull out the few observations that find their way onto the electronic paper where I share these musings.

Without too much consideration of conflict, we can openly share twaddle, such as what we thought of a movie, a video game, the weather, the local sports franchise, the nature of our pets, or how our children are doing in school, but don’t cross the line and make generalized statements about the quality of people and risk stepping on the toes of blind nationalism. Insult a people and risk having the collective boot of fascism stomp down on your neck. Good benign opinions make for great small talk; perceived criticism turns the potential traitor into fodder ready for the meat grinder of indignation. And why is this? Because, to some extent, we despise critical thinking while silently cherishing its opposite.

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

All things steeped in ideas of permanence are mere bandaids waiting to be torn from the flesh in order for healing and scar tissue to make the body more resilient, and the same applies to the mind. I’ve never once shared something that is a law; I even doubt the veracity of what I might imply to be factual, and should you believe that my delivery is stout enough that you’ve confused me with a self-anointed expert, then you’ve taken the idiot and elevated him beyond where I find myself. Not to insinuate a false modesty as if I might seriously offer that I’m stupid. That much I wouldn’t profess, but knowing what I don’t know and will likely never know, I recognize that we are by-and-large but useful idiots.

This knowledge doesn’t extend to the premise that could justify stupidity as that state of being is repugnant. Stupidity, as I see it, is wilful and worn as a badge of conformity in this age of mass consumption, where it’s better to look good than to be curious. To find one’s self in the mainstream is an assignation with a jester employed by King Fool.

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

There are things that readers can’t know about the intentionality of the author or precisely the landscape they are designing. No words, telescopes, or microscopes can help you see or understand what’s at work if things are not explicitly shared. Take this paragraph here: I’ve recently reached the two million word mark on my blog and am now excited to change direction by throwing my focus on something I thought I’d never try again, and that’s writing outside of this electronic medium of distribution. Not only am I looking forward to opening the dome of my mind’s eye to peer farther into the darkness of possibilities, but I’m delusional enough to believe I might have a work of philosophical fiction within this imagination.

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

Out of the liminal space that is the mind, we turn corners to discover the linguistic monsters of poetry, beauty, fantasy, and deep thought while near certainty travels with each step that tells us that there is nothing ahead. Yet, each new word set down arrives with one to follow that somehow flows from fingers, eyes, the mind, or some other dimension that the writer finds mysterious in its origin. The more one practices, the more exciting the intensity of discovering the depth of the river of thought until, splashing in the wash of words, we start to direct where the waters will fall. The divinity of intelligence begins forming a new universe, but the audacity to state such lofty ideas could rightfully be frowned upon as our ambition is likely far greater than the tools we bring to the task.

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

And yet, every day, we sample the unseen and the unheard to give form and meaning to invisible signals we are awash in. Our lack of awareness of the density of that in which we are immersed is an astonishing ignorance that tricks our senses into paying attention to flickers of a tiny fraction of the reality that wraps us in its clutch. The light, sound, movement of air, humidity, pressure, gravity, various signals across a broad spectrum, smells, sights of other things, people, and phenomena bombard our entity, and the best we are able to mutter is something about aliens, conspiracies, boobies, or external tragedies we desire to own in order to further our ability to share inanities that offer the appearance of wakefulness to others.

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

Have you heard or read this all before? Of course, you might have, depending on how much of this crap on my site you’ve bothered with. So why do I continue digging in the same pit? I’m trying to discover the perfect treasure of how to express things that might find refinement through heavy repetition, like smelting and alloying a purer metal used in casting the perfect katana.

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

Without attention to the finer details of the tools and intellects that propel humans into their future, we’d have remained dullards hiding in caves, but then again, what exactly has the man cave become?

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

My low opinion of humanity (excluding the mass of scientists, artists, creators, educators, doctors, and those who invest in moving society forward in a hopefully healthy direction) can be exemplified by our tour of the Mount Graham International Observatory when a Swedish engineer at the Heinrich Hertz Submillimeter Telescope started answering questions from Caroline and me about the equipment and signal processing equipment. Literally, everyone else on the tour took leave of the three of us as things turned complex and technical while the enthusiasm of the engineer appeared to become amplified, as though it was passed through one of the many filter arrays used in the analysis of otherwise weak signals arriving from the cosmos.

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

Maybe the issue is that we observe ourselves through the microscope when a wider view is in order. To focus on a tiny aspect or two of who we are is myopic; we need to pull back and look at the bigger picture, pull up to a telescope, and look far beyond the small parts of ourselves that we believe we know.

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

You can choose to see this machine as just that, or you can recognize that it represents our knowledge, that it is a tool of our brilliance. This giant sphere-like object is a bell jar that a crane moves out into the middle of this facility on the ground floor before it’s transferred to another crane that will pull it up into the telescope room above this one. Once upstairs, the mirror you see in the next photo below will be rotated 90 degrees so it can be coupled to the chamber before about 15 grams of aluminum (an aluminum can worth) is vaporized and coats the mirror, restoring its optical integrity. What else do you choose to see without seeing the bigger picture or understanding the nuance buried underneath layers of unknowns?

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

Scale is difficult to determine from this relatively flat image without a banana for comparison, but that mirror you are looking at, which is but half of this binocular-type configuration, is 8.4 meters (330 inches) across. The other lens, as measured from the centers of each, is 14.4 meters away or 47 feet. Working together, the binocular telescope (as of today, the world’s largest) spied galaxy cluster 2XMM J083026+524133 back in 2008, shortly after the two lenses began operating in tandem, capturing light that’s been traveling for 7.7 billion years to reach us. Meanwhile, some guy looked at his phone screen the other day where the light took 1.7 nanoseconds to reach his eyes, and using some well-developed confirmation bias allowed a bit of nonsensical information to lend affirmation to his evolving stupidity that he was quick to share with anyone falling into his orbit. I should have learned much earlier in life that this is simply the average man.

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

My constant derision of the less intellectually endowed likely reflects poorly on my own intelligence, but then I’ve never told anyone I’m any smarter than your common box of rocks. I am curious which I do find less common than those who are still sporting mullets. Obviously, I’m not a wee bit interested in explaining what most of this stuff we saw was and appear perfectly content to whine about others for I find so much disapproval, but let me level with you: that has a lot to do with the others on this tour who’ve shown me once again that a plurality of people, even when invested in gathering an experience, no longer desire what they thought they wanted. The “great idea” of doing something educational proved to involve too much heavy lifting, so let’s just meander aimlessly and talk among ourselves about stuff that has nothing to do with the environment we are currently supposed to be immersed in.

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

The rarely-seen underside of a telescope. I just made that up. I have no idea how common it is to be under a telescope, but here it is. And because in the years to come, I could easily forget what some of these sights pertained to, the image above this one is the fixture where the mirrors are mounted. The giant wheels are used to position the lenses but also to turn them up a full 90 degrees so the bell jar can be moved into position to resurface them.

Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

Five photos above this one is the image that shows the externals of the telescope we are visiting at this moment. The gray structure is the housing where the binocular telescope lives. At the moment we are standing in the middle green metal part of it all. Here, four of these blue mini-locomotive-like machines are responsible for moving the entire 900 tons of gear and building into the optimal position for stargazing.

Leaving the Mt Graham International Observatory on Mt Graham near Safford, Arizona

And just like that, our day on the mountain in contemplation about the tools that enable our species to survey the heavens must come to an end, and while we learned some things here and there, we leave with the desire to know even more about how we look into the cosmos.

Cotton field in Safford, Arizona

In the background are the Pinaleño Mountains, where our tour of the Mt Graham International Observatory took place, while in the foreground, the cotton fields are blooming.

Cotton flower in Safford, Arizona

Here in the Gila Valley, where the Gila River flows, the famous Pima Cotton grows.

Rainbow near Duncan, Arizona

To the east in New Mexico, it was obviously raining, which makes sense as that’s generally the direction from where monsoons move into Arizona, while this oddly shaped rainbow appears to be a bit north over in the Clifton/Morenci area of Arizona.

Rainbow near Duncan, Arizona

A faint double rainbow stretches across the sky. The elixir found in the vibrancy of refracted light bending in water drops shouldn’t be carelessly dismissed for the effect they play on exercising face muscles pulled into smiles. It has been proven that the frequency of smiles in our lives corresponds directly to the absolute joy we’ll be able to experience at any given moment in the day. And if that smile is reflected upon the face of a person(s) you are with, the joy is exponentiated. Warning: if, upon looking at rainbows, the other person seeing it at the same time fails to smile, you are likely in the company of a sociopath: run away.

Rainbow near Duncan, Arizona

Can a blog post ever have too many rainbow photos? That’s like asking if cake can have too much yummy. Thank you, rain and sun, for offering us all this sky cake. Now, please stop, as our cheeks are starting to hurt from the incessant smiling.

Flossers and Geronimo

Dutch Bros in Mesa, Arizona

Days go by, and before we know it, we’re stopping for coffee to help propel our drive into another weekend away from Phoenix. Where, pray tell, are we going? Dutch Bros, obviously, unless you mean our ultimate destination, which on this day is about 200 miles out of town.

Flossers

As I walked up to the window at Dutch, there were these “His and Hers Deluxe Flossers with Built-in Dental Picks” sitting on the ground, waiting for a lucky couple to find them, and now they are all ours. The rarity of the occasion is an incredible surprise because we typically only see flossers flying solo, and I can’t recollect coming across a flosser with an included dental pick. True astonishment doesn’t arrive easily, but today, we are swooning at the serendipitous nature of this magic moment and are happy to share it here for posterity on the blog of John and Caroline Wise.

Geronimo, Arizona

Goodbye, Geronimo. We watch this town, which likely never had a chance, decay and disappear from the map. Some day, it will disappear from memory. Once upon a time, this place was the home of Camp Thomas, but it was moved east and became Fort Thomas. At some point, there was a small town here with lodging, a market, a gas station, supposedly a post office, and even a rail stop, but the information was thin.

Geronimo, Arizona

Just trying to find any photos from a time these businesses were operational has proven impossible. Has this place always looked like a murder scene?

Kawasaki Equalizer in Geronimo, Arizona

This must be some extremely rare piece of audio equipment, as learning a thing about this Kawasaki amplifier/equalizer is more difficult than finding any info about this ghost town called Geronimo.

Sunset over Highway 70 in Eastern Arizona

The adage, “Go West,” is not being heeded this day as our destination is to the east.

Caroline Wise and John Wise during sunset on Highway 70 in Eastern Arizona

We were still more than an hour away from Duncan, Arizona, and the Simpson Hotel, where we’ll be spending the weekend. If that name sounds familiar, it would be because we’ve stayed there on a few other occasions, and I’m guessing we might return for yet one more visit later this year.

Going Home via Eastern Arizona

Roadside burrito seller in Sanders, Arizona

Overcast with patches of rain was what we woke to over in Gallup, New Mexico. With the flexibility to carve up our day in any manner we chose, the quick decision to head home came easy, and besides, we felt well-satisfied with everything experienced during the previous four days. By the time we reached Arizona, the skies were looking promising though some rain along the way would have been welcome if for no other reasons than their cooling effect and the sweet smell of the desert. We left the interstate at Sanders and turned south on U.S. Route 191.

The Street Kitchen BBQ south of Sanders, Arizona on US 191

There’s so much we don’t know, such as the fact that U.S. Route 191 runs from Morgan, Montana, on the Canadian border to Douglas, Arizona, on the Mexican border. While it’s a very fragmented road, it holds serious promise for a road trip covering great distances for no other purpose than seeing what lies between in order to seize selfie opportunities at the international borders.

Horses on the Navajo Reservation off US Highway 191 south of Sanders, Arizona

At our first stop in Sanders, we picked up a burrito from a Navajo lady selling breakfast fare from her truck. She only had pork, potato, and green chili available, and while we weren’t hungry since we’d had breakfast at our hotel in Gallup, we both felt it was a good idea to support your local Navajo roadside vendor. The mostly potato burro did nothing for us, so we went on the lookout for a hungry rez dog. We had no luck finding a stray starving dog, so we thought we’d try the horses. Not only were they not interested in a burrito, they weren’t interested in us either. One of them was so disinterested that it went and hid in the tunnel that runs under the highway to allow the horses to cross the road without suffering the fate of chickens.

Rain to the east off US Highway 191 north of St Johns, Arizona

There’s something dental x-ray-like about how the sun illuminates the rain dropping from those clouds out there with various hues and creates a kaleidoscopic sky, shooting shadow lasers over the otherwise bright landscape. These transient moments of a particular wavelength of beauty are threatened by the passage of time and our own movement as the elements shift into new configurations in the blink of an eye. The car stops, and the light denies us the opportunity to own forever what was so worthy just a second before.

Santa Fe and the Turquoise Trail

Santa Fe, New Mexico

Our time at the International Folk Art Market has come to an end, as will our time in Santa Fe today. We considered adding an extra night here, but the mystery of how to spend our day was less intriguing than the idea that if are moving somewhere, we’ll have to spontaneously decide to do things that are relatively unknown. Our agenda contained only one fixed item to explore when we departed Santa Fe; some months ago, we picked up a brochure for the Turquoise Trail, which had captured our curiosity, so there’s that. We are also switching our breakfast plans and venturing into the old town to Tia Sophia’s, because this early in the morning on a Sunday, the streets are not yet busy.

Santa Fe, New Mexico

Sure enough, things are quiet on the streets of Santa Fe.

Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Uncertain about whether we’d be able to grab steps during a day that might feature a lot of driving, it was essential that we attempt to get in at least a couple of thousand while still in the cool of the day. It turns out that we’d never visited the Loretto Chapel, but that’s about to be rectified.

Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe, New Mexico

The church was consecrated 145 years ago in 1878, and while the surrounding girls’ school known as the Loretto Academy fell to the wrecking ball back in 1968, the deconsecrated church was saved, becoming a museum and wedding chapel so it didn’t have to become a victim to progress too. Consequently, it costs $5 to enter the space still maintained by the entity that took over the property so many years ago.

Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe, New Mexico

This spiral staircase is a major draw as it features two complete 360-degree turns without a center pole for support. This means that the entire weight of the staircase rests on the bottom step, which some would say defies what should be possible. I have to say that the photo in the chapel showing about a dozen young ladies standing on this spring-like staircase is intriguing; maybe of yet even greater interest is that for the first ten years the staircase existed, there was no handrail. Needless to say, visitors are not allowed to ascend the steps.

Loretto Chapel in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Jesus wept. John 11:35. Actually, I wrote this at 4:39 p.m., but referencing 11:35 sounded more poetic.

Santa Fe, New Mexico

Like a bazaar from another age, a rug and basket trader is set up across the street from the church.

Santa Fe, New Mexico

Next to the trader is this confused sculptor who presents us with “Adoration of the alien preparing to eat souls.” Get yours at the Wildhorse Gallery of Santa Fe across the street from the Loretto Chapel. In case aliens are not your thing, they also have live-sized Iron Man sculptures.

Santa Fe, New Mexico

Most of Santa Fe does not look like the old town center, sadly.

Mass at the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Be careful, parishioners attending mass here at the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi: there are four angels nearby playing a summoning song while a bronze version of an alien satan is waiting to eat your souls. You’ve been warned.

Santa Fe, New Mexico

While the streets of Santa Fe are still quiet, that’s about to change.

Santa Fe, New Mexico

On the main square, the Native American vendors selling handcrafted objects have been setting up, which means that the onslaught is about to begin, signaling Caroline and me to get out of town, or at least the city center.

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Upon arriving in Santa Fe the other day, we learned that our reservation wasn’t for as long as we thought it was. At the time, Caroline suggested we extend it for the extra night so we could spend Sunday visiting museums, but I liked the idea that we move southeast at some point on Sunday so we’d be better positioned for a shorter drive home: a compromise to have the best of both worlds. As a surprise to Caroline, on the way out of the downtown area, I turned left, knowing beforehand that this would take us to Museum Hill instead of staying on the road we were on, which would lead us south and consequently into the general direction of home. This detour is going to take us to the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture.

The first photo I’m sharing from the museum is a pitcher which is approximately 1,000 years old and originated in the Tularosa Basin that was once occupied by members of the Anasazi and Mogollon cultures in southeastern New Mexico. The design references the region, and accordingly, its style is named Tularosa. Maybe I’ve not paid attention prior to today, but the designs are called isomeric patterns, and those on the neck specifically are tesselated isomer patterns. Search engines didn’t want to give up the secret of isomer patterns, insisting that I was looking for information about polyatomic ions, which are known as isomers. Artificial Intelligence to the rescue! Bard explained the following:

These patterns are based on the use of paired forms that can be perceived as reversible. This means that the same design can be seen as either a foreground object or a background pattern, depending on how the viewer’s eye interprets it.

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture in Santa Fe, New Mexico

The more you learn about Native American culture on this continent, the better you can appreciate how difficult it is to visit a museum that adequately approaches a comprehensive overview of the people of this land prior to conquest. While the National Museum of the American Indian in Washington D.C. is the largest, it is one of more than 100 museums with a heavy or exclusive focus on Native American culture. As I sit here asking ChatGPT to continue adding more museums to the list, I realize that we could spend months on the road traveling the country to take in as many Native American museums as we could, and still, we’d only see a fraction of them.

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture in Santa Fe, New Mexico

How this net bag survived hidden in the earth for 2,000 years or more boggles the mind. Equally intriguing is the knowledge that the people who made this were out harvesting plant fibers, treating them, and spinning them before configuring the resulting cordage into a bag in which they placed goods or pottery they’d carry with them for some undeterminable number of years before the bag was lost, forgotten, or thrown away.

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Another example of Tularosa pottery, though it might also be a Reserve type. As an effigy jar from between 1100 and 1150 CE, the shape depicts a bird, which is not unusual for this type of pottery in the Southwest, though this piece is one of the most detailed and realistic recovered so far.

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture in Santa Fe, New Mexico

There’s a terrific video here in the museum about the making of this turkey feather blanket by Mary Weahkee of the Santa Clara Pueblo/Comanche people. The cloak is made from about 17,000 feathers from turkeys that only produce about 600 feathers per bird. She also points out that turkeys were not indigenous to this part of North America and arrived in the southwest from trade with the Aztecs.

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Returning to my thought about the number of museums and the time required to see many of them, it pains me to some small degree that Caroline and I were not more prepared or aware of opportunities while we wandered the United States. Our first interest was often national parks and the landscape of the country before turning our attention to what else might be in the vicinity of our travels. I suppose the good thing is that should we somehow embark on taking in America’s Native American museums, the rest of the population will likely still be preoccupied with capturing selfie-trophies inspired by the influencers they are chained to instead of investigating the history of a people that lived on the lands prior to the arrival of all of us outsiders. This painting is titled “Father Sky, Mother Earth” and was created by Navajo artist Tony Abeyta in 1995.

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Realistic people and animals depicted on pottery were hallmarks of the Mimbres style of Puebloan people a thousand years ago.

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture in Santa Fe, New Mexico

So few pay homage to the Native American peoples and subsequently display a high level of disrespect or simply ignore their heritage and presence. Due to this disrespect, there is much of their culture they’d rather not share with us. This was made clear to Caroline and me upon visiting our first Kachina dance on the Hopi Mesas. As I look at this depiction of a corn dance, I can only dream of ever witnessing it with my own eyes as, too often, the Puebloan people have a mistrust of what we’ll do with the information and images we take away. At least there’s some solace in knowing that colonialization didn’t absolutely destroy a rich culture worth preserving. This 1933 painting titled “Corn Dance” was created by self-taught artist Awa Tsireh (also known as Alfonso Roybal and Cattail Bird) of the San Ildefonso Pueblo.

Museum of Indian Arts & Culture in Santa Fe, New Mexico

This is quite possibly my favorite sculpture ever with the motion, layers, mystery, sense of musicality, the essence of a warrior, and the feeling of the shaman being present. I feel that the sculptor hit the mark in creating something that makes one wonder, “Who was this?”

Santa Fe Botanical Garden, New Mexico

Across the way from Museum Hill lies the Santa Fe Botanical Garden and our last stop in town before we hit the road.

Santa Fe Botanical Garden, New Mexico

Still-green juniper berries are interesting enough, but the beautiful aroma from the plants brought magic to the rather small garden.

Along the Turquoise Trail in New Mexico

On our way out of Santa Fe, we stopped at the Iconik Coffee Roastery in a hipster corner of the city. As though things could get any trendier in this place, the coffee was of particular interest to us because they supply the Pantry where we often eat breakfast and seriously enjoy their java. The roastery has a great look and feel, and it turned out that we could get lunch there, so that’s just what we did. A short time later, we were satisfied and sipping our cold brews while heading south on the Turquoise Trail. Life was good but was about to get better: an old guy in a van sitting roadside next to the Lone Butte General Store was selling something that looked promising and required further investigation. Pecans and roasted pinons were coming home with us.

Along the Turquoise Trail in New Mexico

What we wouldn’t give to see a cow abducted by aliens, but like those antelope crossing signs, we know full well by now that we’ll never see for ourselves the promised sight.

Cerrillos, New Mexico on the Turquoise Trail

Hey Pope, what gives? We pulled into the tiny town of Los Cerrillos with the St. Joseph Catholic Church ON A SUNDAY, and the doors were locked. See if we ever go to Los Cerrillos, New Mexico, again.

Along the Turquoise Trail in New Mexico

While it’s not easy to see in this photo, that’s Santa Fe way out there at the foot of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains just left of center. We are about 40 miles or more from the peaks touching the clouds.

San Francisco de Asis Catholic Church in Golden, New Mexico

Okay, the first note to the Pope was meant tongue-in-cheek, but here we are in faraway Golden, New Mexico, ready to visit the San Francisco de Asis Catholic Church, and while the gates were open, the doors of the church were not. We were not only out here for sightseeing; we were also on a pilgrimage that required we stop and pray at every Catholic church we encountered, and we were being denied. I swear, one more time of finding ourselves locked out, I’ll turn to the dark side and join the Church of Satan.

Sandia Crest National Scenic Byway near Albuquerque, New Mexico

Good thing we got out of Santa Fe when we did and that those churches were closed otherwise, we may not have had time to turn onto the Sandia Crest National Scenic Byway to see where the road goes.

Sandia Crest near Albuquerque, New Mexico

As we reached the crest, the couple on the right just got engaged and asked if we could take their photo. Just then, the couple on the left who were sitting nearby spoke up and told all of us that they, too came up here to get engaged, having done so in the minutes before the other couple arrived. So, I asked them all to come together so I could grab a photo of the happy couples on their way to marriage.

Sandia Crest near Albuquerque, New Mexico

This might be the best view of Albuquerque anyone might ever see. I don’t mean to imply my photo is particularly beautiful, but that from 10,678 feet (3,254 meters), the city doesn’t look as horrid, dirty, and crime-ridden as it really is. Seriously, that city down there wins in many categories of crime, including violence and property violations. Reading up on the contributing factors, I see that limited economic opportunities, poor urban planning, homelessness, financial hardship, substance abuse, and the city’s location as a thoroughfare and hub for a variety of interstate criminal activities all play a role. Looking at it this way has me thinking about the very city we live in, Phoenix, Arizona, but still, Albuquerque is special in the depravity of it all. In some inexplicable way, one simply senses it when down there.

Late afternoon somewhere near Albuquerque, New Mexico

Like a fear of werewolves and vampires, Albuquerqueans must eat dinner before the sun goes down: at 8:00 p.m., finding an open restaurant becomes a near impossibility. We race towards the city I’d rather avoid because, like the Catholic churches in this state are closed on Sunday, most of the damned restaurants are closed too, but we found one place that promises to be open until 9:00. Was it any good? Hell no, as it reflects the environment of this tortured city, but the setting sun with the vast horizon is rather beautiful.

Sunset off Interstate 40 in Western New Mexico

We are on our way to Gallup, New Mexico, for the night, and the spectacular skies force us off Interstate 40 to capture the moment. If this isn’t the kind of iconic southwest sunset one dreams of, then nothing is.

On the Move in Santa Fe

Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

The road northeast out of Santa Fe brings visitors into the Santa Fe National Forest, and while it’s ultimately a dead end farther up the road, we are only going as far as the Big Tesuque Campground, where a trail of the same name begins and ends. If only we could find the trail. It was Alltrails that had brought this particular route to my attention, and somehow, I’m failing to see where the trailhead is, in spite of the nearby map that is useless. We ask someone who appears to be camping here, but he doesn’t know where the Big Tesuque Trail is either. Just then, across the street, a post caught my attention as the likely marker for the beginning of the trail. Bingo.

Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

With the capital city of New Mexico just below us at about 7,200 feet, it should be no surprise that our forest route could start at 9,700 feet (2,950 meters) of elevation. What I really want to point out here is that, as we stepped from the car, the temperature was a relatively brisk 56 degrees (13 Celsius) or cold enough to our summer acclimated desert skin that a sweater was briefly considered, but no, we’d tough it out. It wasn’t only the cool air that greeted us: the nearby stream and the birds all sang songs that were music to our senses.

Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

Oh my god! Rock, needles, shield lichen, and moss in a configuration we’ve never seen before. Isn’t the forest simply enchanted in its beauty?

Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

This is the point on the trail where one stops to make a wish that all successive days will be just as perfect as this one.

Caroline Wise on the Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

I don’t believe Caroline has ever worn a skirt while hiking in a forest, nor has she carried her purse. This combo gives her the silhouette of a Mennonite from time to time, depending on the light upon or behind her here on the trail.

Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

Wait a sec, I see a butterfly and am prepared to take 30 or more photos while I try my best to snap one with its wings perfectly open for me to capture the hidden message buried in the patterns I cannot decipher since I’m not a butterfly.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

Nearly the same process takes place as I try to capture a selfie of Caroline and me with her eyes open, my hair not out of place, our glasses too low on our noses, no food on Caroline’s teeth, no dangling boogers, poor focus, one of us in a shadow or too bright of sun, or any of the other multitude of things that go wrong while trying to take a photo of the two of us. By the way, has anyone ever wondered if Caroline and I are roughly the same height? We are not, but when taking our photo, I bend my knees so we can appear cheek to cheek in our selfies. I also grab hold of one of her butt cheeks (which nearly always makes her laugh) before I start snapping photos and wildly moving the camera into different positions hoping that we are somewhere in the center. Some of you may think that taking a selfie is not that hard, but I would surmise that you are using your phone while I use my DSLR that; on more than one occasion, has allowed me to repair an image where lighting proved difficult, kind of like this one with the bright background. One thing I can’t take into account or fix is that we seem to be aging in our photos as the years pass.

Caroline Wise on the Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

I had a choice: share the image of the damned dental flosser Caroline spotted on the trail (yeah, seriously, a dental flosser on a forest trail because everywhere is the right place for proper dental hygiene) or the eleven cents we found. Just how we managed to see any of this perplexes us, too, but there’s proof of the change. Barely a week passes that we don’t see discarded dental flossers or pick-up change on a walk.

Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

We could have taken this flower too and packed it between pages of a book as a keepsake, but then the next person would have been denied this beautiful scene,  and seeing Caroline already pocketed not only the dental flosser and the loose change, she also picked up a stinky cigarette butt.

Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

I’m going to put it out there that this is Pedicularis procera (giant lousewort), but we’ll let Caroline verify this as her “Search-fu” is far more attuned to perfection than any weak effort I throw at finding facts, meaning you really shouldn’t use my writing as something that arrives with any veracity. [Yes, you did get it right – this time… Caroline]

Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

The trail guide said the walk was easy. It also said there would be only 597 feet (182 meters) of elevation gain. NO WAY, and I also don’t believe that the trail was 3.6 miles (5.8 km) long, WHATEVER.

Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

After HOURS (1.75 hours without exaggerating), we have reconnected with the first leg of our hike, thus closing the loop, and are mere minutes away from reaching our car to head back down the hill to the International Folk Art Market.

Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

Yellow salsify is this flower’s name, but I certainly like the other name for it better: yellow goatsbeard.

Big Tesuque Trail in the Santa Fe National Forest, Santa Fe, New Mexico

I’d mentioned the nearby stream we heard after getting out of our car; that stream flows just past the trailhead marker, and this is it right here. Its proper name is North Fork Tesuque Creek, meaning it is not actually a stream. Somehow, we lengthened the trail to 4.1 miles (6.6 km) and added a few dozen extra feet to the elevation gain, but now we’re done and need to head back to the city.

International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

With no time to waste and following the maxim of “no rest for the wicked,” we were off the mountain and back at the market. We happened to catch this performance group having photos taken at the entrance, which reminds me that I should point out that the stage remained busy nearly all day, and in a nearby hall, talks/workshops are part of the program (for an extra charge). We attended one of the talks yesterday, but to be frank, the organizer of IFAM would be well advised to better screen and direct their speakers prior to the event. As for the performers on stage, Caroline and I did watch a few dancers from a local group perform dances, but there was not enough shaded seating available to invite us to hang out longer so we soon returned to meandering the grounds and were always on the move scouring the booths for something we might have missed.

Karma Choden of Bhutan and Caroline Wise at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

This blog post is being put together much like a length of woven fabric: Caroline and I are the weft, and these experiences are the warp. Because we are weaving so much of ourselves into such an incredible number of experiences today, it takes forever for the thing to take shape. Had we slept in, skipped the hike, visited the market, and did little else, I wouldn’t have nearly as much to share. I could have just thrown a few threads of what the day entailed into this post, and would have been done lickety-split. Instead, there are 41 photos representing our day, with 25 of them still to be scrolled past. As for the textile being shown, it is a rachu (ceremonial scarf or sash worn by Bhutanese women on special occasions) woven by the mother of Karma Choden of Bhutan who’s standing next to Caroline.

Bracelet from Crucelina Chocho of Columbia at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

If you ask me, I think Caroline might be basing her purchases on ideas of geography in order to figuratively travel to all these places via the fiber arts. These bracelets are made by basketry artist Crucelina Chocho of Columbia, a member of the Wounaan indigenous group, using Werregue palm fibers.

International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Trying to be discrete in capturing a photo of her earrings in the shape of Africa, this woman turned towards me with the smile that won “Best Smile of IFAM 2023.”

Olinda Silvano of Peru and Caroline Wise at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

While the cloth in this stand didn’t capture Caroline’s eye, the bracelet made of black and red seeds did. Caroline’s been using a Dremel to grind holes into Texas mountain laurel seeds she wants to make into a necklace, and seeing such unique seeds from the Amazon was just the kind of thing that helped inspire her. This bracelet was made by the lady on Caroline’s right; she is Olinda Silvano of Peru.

Scissors from Zavkiddin Kamalov of Uzbekistan at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Why one can never have enough scissors is beyond my ability to write something that could explain the mind of my wife and her collection of things with fetish value. I may never truly understand this, but these little things definitely bring her joy.

Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Last year at this time, the International Folk Art Market was held up here on Museum Hill. This year, it is hosted at the Railyard Park near the old town, and the museum area is awfully quiet. We are here because museum tickets are half-price for IFAM visitors this weekend, and more important than that, we were drawn in by an exhibit titled Ghhúunayúkata / To Keep Them Warm: The Alaska Native Parka at the Museum of International Folk Art.

Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

The first collection we browsed was an ongoing exhibit called Multiple Visions: A Common Bond. There are over 10,000 artifacts from all over the world on display, and one can get lost in trying to look at everything. What is neat is that objects are not presented based on their subjects, usage, or style and are not separated by provenance, which makes connections and relationships between seemingly remote cultures apparent. Check out some of the items virtually here.

Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

The reason behind the museum is that handcraft matters.

Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Last year at Meow Wolf, Caroline and I spotted a sculpture that we both thought enchanting. Of the many thousands of objects in this wing of the Museum of Folk Art, I happened to find this one that seemed familiar. Upon getting home, it turns out that there is a similarity. Click here and scroll down about 2/3rds of the page to compare this figurine to the piece in Meow Wolf and tell me if this is where the inspiration came from.

Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Gathering for the dead.

Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Gathering for the living.

Ghhúunayúkata / To Keep Them Warm at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

We’ve arrived in the hall featuring the exhibit Ghhúunayúkata / To Keep Them Warm: The Alaska Native Parka. There are 20 parkas on display representing 6 Alaska Native communities: Dena’ina, Iñupiaq, Koyukon, St. Lawrence Island Yupik, Unangan, and Yup’ik. Along with the garments (vintage as well as contemporary), we can see drawings, dolls, tools, and more.

Ghhúunayúkata / To Keep Them Warm at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Who doesn’t dream of spending at least some short period of time in the Arctic and having the opportunity to wear something like this parka? As I write this on a mid-July day in Phoenix, Arizona, with temperatures hovering just below 120 degrees (49c), it is difficult to envision so much fur adorning my body (especially as a more hairless version of our species), but a naked ape can dream, can’t he?

Ghhúunayúkata / To Keep Them Warm at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

A seal skin doll is exactly what many of us have desired; go ahead and admit it.

Ghhúunayúkata / To Keep Them Warm at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

This St Lawrence Island Yupik ceremonial parka is made of seal gut, auklet crests, seal fur, cormorant feathers, cotton thread, and red ocher.

Ghhúunayúkata / To Keep Them Warm at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

While this seal skin parka might make a great windbreaker, I can’t help that after an hour of sweating inside your waterproof hide; you’d smell like fish. One other thing about this garb: who else thinks it looks a bit Frankensteinish?

Ghhúunayúkata / To Keep Them Warm at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

We can consider ourselves lucky that images such as these were painted about 100 years ago so we can glimpse a view of what life was like way up north. While life would have already changed for the indigenous people of the Arctic, this was still closer to their roots than what we’d see after film began capturing their lives.

Mexican Art of Paper and Paste at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

The third exhibit we visited is titled La Cartoneria: Mexican Art of Paper and Paste and has a heavy Day of the Dead feel.

Mexican Art of Paper and Paste at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

We don’t have a lot of time to dwell here in the museum due to a commitment starting at 6:00 and my impression was that we were here to see the parka exhibit. Little did I understand that all parts of the Folk Art Museum were going to be of such interest.

Yōkai: Ghosts & Demons of Japan at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

The last exhibit for us here at the museum is titled Yōkai: Ghosts & Demons of Japan.

Yōkai: Ghosts & Demons of Japan at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

I have to admit to only a passing interest in this exhibit, as ghosts and demons are not really my thing. In lighthearted films lampooning the subject, and in some anime, I can find appreciation, but it’s a rare day.

Yōkai: Ghosts & Demons of Japan at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe, New Mexico

The utility of the subject matter for children or in entertainment is okay, but older American adults who take it all to heart and believe in it tend to make it all a bit repugnant. Obviously, that’s just me.

International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Our 6:00 commitment is back at the International Folk Art Market for the night segment. This was a separate entry, and while we thought we’d spent everything we were going to spend, it turns out that Caroline wasn’t finished ogling exotic clothes, and this bag from Zsuzsa Zsigmond of Hungary apparently pushed some buttons.

International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

While we love these giant woven baskets from Nanasei Agyemang of Ghana, we simply do not have the space to keep one in our tiny apartment. Every time we see them in someone’s arms, they put a smile on our faces that they are so fortunate to be the new owner of such a unique basket.

Peruvian weaver at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

You’d have to be a real nudnik not to love everything about Peruvian weavers.

International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Live music and a bar were part of the Night Market here at IFAM, and while we were here, this side of things had little interest for us as we were inching towards exhaustion. So, after a final walk of the vendor booths, we said goodbye to another year that saw our attendance and hopefully not our last. As a matter of fact, before finishing writing that, I went over to the IFAM website to see that they posted the dates of next year’s 20th Annual Market running from July 11th to the 14th, and so I took the opportunity and booked our rooms at Motel 6 just around the corner of the Railyard Park.

International Folk Art Market

The Pantry Restaurant in Santa Fe, New Mexico

On any other given day, coffee is a mundane part of the continuum that is routine, but today, we are outside of routine and once again find ourselves in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Details of our breakfast aren’t of any relevance, aside from the fact that this being New Mexico, green chili was an integral part of our meal, while the coffee from local roaster Iconik Roaster was noteworthy enough that we’ll pay them a visit before leaving Santa Fe on Sunday.

Caroline Wise and Benson Kuzai of Omba Arts Trust (Namibia) at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

We’ve arrived at the Railyard Park for the 9:00 “Early Bird” entry of the International Folk Art Market (IFAM) priced at the delirious cost of $90 a person. I was nearly certain that this meant we’d be part of a small group of idiots throwing money away, but that thought was quickly squashed as we wandered around the corner to the rear of the line that already saw hundreds of people ahead of us. This wasn’t taking into account the other queue for members only.

The first person we met and our first purchase was from Benson Kuzai of Omba Arts Trust out of Namibia who sold Caroline the hand-woven basket she’s holding and a few of the bracelets seen below.

Omba Arts Trust (Namibia) at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Intense, crowded, and seductive could be one way to describe the folk market, but so could expensive, rare, and charming. Once onto the grounds of this year’s event, there are moments that feel like we’ve rushed into Walmart on Black Friday, except no one knows where the bargains are because there are none, and in this universe of opposites, there is nothing mass-produced while the shoppers appear to be in a race to see who spends their first $1000 the fastest. Not a piece of designer brand clothing is on hand while even the attendees appear to be wearing mostly handmade clothes they’ve been collecting during their travels or previous visits to IFAM.

Kakaw Designs of Guatemala at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

As the title of the annual event says, this is about folk art, though that might be a bit of a misnomer as it’s really all about craft. While Caroline will buy some jewelry, a basket, maybe a trinket or two, it is the products created using fiber arts that are her major draw. This backstrap loom with a piece of cloth in the process of being made was seen at the booth of Kakaw Designs from Guatemala. We try to gather a quick overview of the offerings here, but our early bird entry only gives us two hours before the gates open wide for the rest of the attendees, so we must run the gauntlet, make decisions, whip out the credit card, and run to the next booth. About that credit card, it’s a good thing that cash is not accepted here at IFAM as the ATMs couldn’t be stuffed fast enough to satisfy demand. On the other hand, I have to think out loud, asking if the crazy rate of tapping credit cards is likely to trigger some weird kind of consumption blip on Visa’s network.

Caroline Wise with Maria Cristina and the weaver named Abadi of Abadi from Indonesia at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Caroline has found her first big purchase, a Pua Kumbu ritual cloth from Indonesia. While these lengths of cloth can be worn as a skirt, the first one Caroline thought she wanted was too small, and we nearly walked away until the lady on Caroline’s immediate left, Maria Cristina, said she had some larger pieces. Abadi, on the right of the photo is the weaver who the company is named after. She sifted through a stack of other weavings before pulling out this one that struck Caroline’s eye. Abadi is from Tanjung Isuy and of the Benuaq Tribe of the Dayak. While the cloth might look large, it will be folded and needs a belt to fit correctly also, keep in mind that my wife is between 5’4″ and 5’5″ (about 163cm), so she’s not exactly tall unless you compare her to many of the exhibitors from Asia and Central America.

Master weaver Lidia Lopez from Guatemala at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

You wouldn’t know it from the photo necessarily but this is master weaver Lidia Lopez from Guatemala. In some circles, she’s a bit of a celebrity, and it turns out that people in Ohio, Colorado, and California will be taking weaving classes from her this summer.

Caroline Wise and Gohar Sajid from Pakistan at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Like a pinball machine from the past, our credit card just went into TILT mode. The big lesson of the day: if you are not prepared to buy something, don’t try it on…no matter HOW MUCH you like that thing. Next, once you’ve donned this rather priciest of all pricey things, do not have someone with you who tells you it’s the most beautiful piece of clothing they’ve ever seen you in. Third, run away or suffer the guilt that a credit card was whipped out with lightning speed to pay for a dream tunic/kurta you could have never imagined buying. Fourth, now that it’s yours, convince yourself never to wear it as the occasion is never perfect/formal enough, and you’d possibly embarrass yourself if anyone else guessed at what you paid. This sums up Caroline’s experience in diving into the lunacy of being convinced that we can well absorb the cost of this exquisite work that took eight months to create and which is now going to travel with us after Gohar Sajid from Pakistan (pictured) passed it into our care. But wait, there’s more: a big truth about this entire transaction is that it was the first time I’ve seen my wife wearing something that made me choke up; I think I’m getting soft in my old age.

International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

The folk market attracts artists from 50 countries that visit Santa Fe to display and sell their work, though some artists are here for the song and dance.

Caroline Wise with Maki Aizawa & Tsuyo Onodera at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

So, what does one do for an encore after purchasing the most expensive piece of clothing ever? Turn around and not even an hour later buy the second priciest object because we’re on a roll. The lady photobombing Caroline is Master Kimono Maker Tsuyo Onodera, grandmother to the young man selling us this Japanese jumper dress that Caroline obviously fell in love with. Once she takes the opportunity to wear it after we are back home, I’ll snap another photo and share it here. We are now nearly broke, yet there is more to come as I’ve arranged a surprise for Caroline to be hand-delivered later this morning.

Shirt from Pachan Premjibhai Siju of India at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

We are not here trying to stuff a grab bag of every piece of alluring fabric, but holding back is never easy.

Caroline Wise and Norma Schaefer at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Surprise! Is that Norma Schaefer over there? Oh wow, “Hi Norma, fancy seeing you here.” Norma was the tour organizer for our trip to Chiapas, Mexico, last year, and for the past two weeks, Caroline has been eyeballing a huipil that Norma was selling on her blog http://www.oaxacaculture.com. While my wife was coveting it, green with envy and sure that someone else should likely get it, I’d clandestinely reached out to Norma and inquired if she was going to be down in Santa Fe at IFAM, and sure enough, she was. After meeting up, I casually asked Norma if she’d already bought anything interesting at the market, and she said, “As a matter of fact, I picked this up,” and out popped this huipil made by Pinotepa de Don Luis, Oaxaca, weaver Viridiana who created this pericone (wild marigold), purple caracol (snail) dye, and indigo piece of handmade cotton art. Mind you, Caroline hadn’t purchased it as she felt that it was too expensive in light of us going to Santa Fe, but I can assure you that it was easier on the wallet than the previous two items.

International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

We now turn our attention to wandering without purpose, with the idea of shopping banished until we recover from the shock of spending with abandon. In a sense, it’s as though we’ve grown up and graduated from attending the Renaissance Festival to end up here at the International Folk Art Market. I then wonder if there’s anything else quite like this event, and if there isn’t, why not? Are there really only about 20,000 people in the entirety of the United States who bother with visiting IFAM here in New Mexico, who can both afford it and have the time to immerse themselves in such cultural outings? I say 20,000 because that’s approximately the number that attend, and while more might visit if it were closer to home, why aren’t there more of these kinds of multicultural gatherings?

Claudio Jimenez Quispe of Peru at the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Claudio Jimenez Quispe of Peru and his family are the artists known for making these retablos, and as much as we’d love to carry this home with us, $600 for an addition to our shelves of knick-knacks doesn’t feel like the best use of our money when so many clothes talk louder to Caroline. Interestingly enough, the retablos are made with a mixture of plaster and boiled potatoes (that description is not a typo). The finer details of the painting are applied with cactus spines. Luckily, there are different sizes/prices available, so we are considering one of the tiny $40 versions.

International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Conventional Western ideas of beauty are so broken, characterless, and sterile, even while brands such as Lululemon have brainwashed women in the U.S. into displays that are classless at best. I suppose I have to accept that I’m now truly old when a 50 to 55-year-old woman barely 4 foot 10 inches (147 cm) tall with a thick face, liver spots, and colorful traditional garb appears a thousand times more authentic than the majority of most everyone I witness on a day-to-day basis at some of the “trendy” places where I spend time writing. This has me asking myself, as though I were putting myself in the shoes of a reader, “Why then don’t you write at Denny’s or McDonald’s?” Have you been to a Denny’s lately? It reeks of meth to me, while McDonald’s smells of old people, and the coffee is merely hot brown water; I don’t care what you other old people think of it.

International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Fortunately for you, the reader, we are about to leave the market, which allows me to stop the direction this post just pulled into; maybe I’m just awkward when it comes to sharing my revulsion of modern fashion and having to compare traditional handicraft to the banalities we sell as clothes du jour.

Caroline Wise in Santa Fe, New Mexico

When Caroline initially showed me a photo of this huipil, I nodded quietly at her enthusiasm. Truthfully, I didn’t like the color. When she brought it up a second time and asked my opinion, I demurred along the lines of, “If you really like it, you should get it,” all the while thinking to myself, I really don’t like the colors. Now that she’s wearing it, I believe she wears it well, and just as important, I’m thrilled that there’s not a soul in this restaurant right now that is dressed anything at all as she is. Maybe it’s corny, but I appreciate that my wife and best friend is not compelled, nor has she ever been interested in fitting in with the crowd. Speaking of the restaurant, we dined at La Choza, located just on the other end of the Railroad Park.

Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Yep, we’re done with dinner and have landed once again in the Candy-colored Butt Toy Superstore. [My editor just let out a groan after reading this, wondering how her husband is able to maintain such juvenile ideas at his advanced age.]

From Caroline: Contrary to the idiot who wrote the above, we are at Meow Wolf, and those colorful phallic objects are NOT butt toys; they are pleasure devices for whichever hole you choose to use them in.

From the REAL Caroline: Why, John? WHY???

Caroline Wise at Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

We play with the light that illuminates our lives and has allowed us the opportunity to practice what it means to be human. Utilizing patterns, we manipulate constructs to explore an otherwise dark universe while attempting to leave some impression on the creatures that have become self-aware. We cannot truly walk in the footsteps of our ancestors as we have no real idea of how they relate to a world devoid of the conveniences and acts of magic we take for granted. How else should one explain entering an otherwise dark room and passing one’s hands through laser light beams to trigger music emanating from hidden corners and tell others that this isn’t somehow extraordinary?

Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Art allows some amount of recontextualizing the inexplicable by forcing us to see a perspective drawn from someone else’s mind that has sampled frames of reality and imagination, which they interpreted in ways unknown by the viewer. What must one absorb, begin to understand, and finally have knowledge about before being able to create a thing?

Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Conversely, what must a person know and desire to understand in order to find some kind of meaning when observing what might otherwise be incomprehensible? When does an object such as an ancient obsidian blade become a tool for someone who’s never seen such a thing and has no means to conceptualize the purpose? How, then, do art and music that are initially inimitable come to inform our need to ponder and find inspiration in the potential tool/palette that we might try integrating into our own knowledge?

Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

We have normalized the sight of ourselves and don’t think twice about seeing another of our species. Well, that is only partly true as many live in fear of others, but by and large, we accept that our kind roams the spaces of our reality. So, when something unfamiliar to our sense of normal appears, we must make a quick decision if the thing is dangerous or if it should draw out our curiosity. In the context of a museum, work of literature, or movie, we have already established a relative zone of safety where we believe we’ll be able to observe and maybe find meaning in what we are bringing to our senses. This is the good fortune of those in modernity living outside the hostility of war, famine, and poverty.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

I have to think about the 35,000-year-old paintings found in the Chauvet-Pont-d’Arc Cave of southeastern France, where early humans left images of horses, cave lions, and rhinos, amongst other paintings of animals that lived in the area long ago. Now here are Caroline and I in an electronic cave, creating an image of ourselves after using gestures interpreted by knobs and electronics to paint temporary phototonic displays of colors and forms shown on digital screens while rounded mirrors reflect elements of the cave, and various bits of illumination bathes us in deep hues of blue. All the while, we are in an artificial space climate-controlled by machines using electricity generated at some far-off place, thus eliminating the need for us to carry fire into the darkness. And now that the image has been created, we can share it instantly around the entirety of the earth, though nobody will ever be able to enter that space and see a physical record of our presence.

Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

In a sense, following our summoning of the alien and manifesting technology at the level we’ve evolved it to, we are now communicating with the hallucinations and fluidic psychedelic dreams of our infant artificial intelligence. The AIs we’ve been introduced to are barely over six months old as far as our experience with them, and yet they are likely in some respects smarter than many of the people around us, and even if you have a compelling argument that they are not yet “all that smart,” they are obviously learning faster than any organic being that has existed and communicated with what until now was the only known sentient being on our planet that we know of. When we stop and consider where we’ve taken animation, electronic music, image, and language synthesis, should it be any wonder that we’ll likely be exposed to an entirely new paradigm of communication that will attempt to teach us its mother tongue and pull us into an artificial cave in order to share with us what the future looks like?

Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, New Mexico

“What are you willing to risk?” Due to biological imperatives surrounding survival in an otherwise hostile world, humans have had to risk all manner of potential physical harm, but this is the modern age, and we’ve done everything in our power to risk the very planet that sustains us when it refused to kill us off. Or maybe Earth is a compassionate body that is waiting for us to figure out when we’ll risk trying to explore the furthest reaches of our minds. Personally, I think evolution is using us as a tool to build an intelligent entity that will survive on the energy of the sun before learning to harness the photon to propel itself into the furthest reaches of the universe with nary a concern for the cold dangers of deep space or the time it would take to traverse distances that might take billions of years to satisfy an inquisitiveness we embued it with. This energetic molecular ambassador would be responsible for carrying the artifact of curiosity that drove humans to make art, machines, war, and death beyond what an organic entity could ever achieve. Hopefully, it will have evolved enough to understand the need to leave war and death behind.