Blam, You are Home

Bags packed and ready to go in Frankfurt, Germany

Bags are packed, time is short, and before we know it, we’ll be moving through the airport to take our seats for the long flight home. As I finally get around to writing this post on November 13, 2023, I have ten pages of handwritten notes to transcribe, meaning that for a post with so few photos, there will be a lot to say without me needing to add anything “from the hip.” And there’s a good reason for that: with nearly 11 hours of flight time and my intense desire to stay awake, not watch movies, and use the time to start digesting the previous month, I tried keeping my pen in touch with my notebook for the duration in the air. This was important because after we got home, we had one day to recover before hitting the treadmill, with Caroline returning to work and me starting to document our very lengthy excursion into discovery. So, without further ado, we’ll get right to the notebook, and I’ll hope my first words don’t emanate from a place where they would be better suited to be flushed into the object in the next photo.

Leaving things in Germany I won't need in the United States

We’re on the plane, but my heart and brain are trying to stay in Europe. Instead, I must face my inevitable return to Botox, yoga pants, military haircuts, guns, fanaticism, and monosyllabic vocabularies. Not even an hour up here and half the flight is already asleep.

Two hours in, and lunch is finished. [Notice that this is the two-hour mark, and I’d only written three sentences: sad.]

Our trip to Europe is on one hand over, but on the other, it is awaiting transformation in the days to come as I’ll be working to take it out of our impressions to share on my blog in as best a presentation as I can bring forth. The minor inconvenience of flying nearly a dozen hours each way seems a trifling cost considering that we were able to go so far and gather so much. Except, this foray produced a lot of material that must now be ruminated on. I’ll likely be spending the next month regurgitating our adventure while I’d like to get busy on my next project. [It turned out that I required two months to get to this point where our trip was about to be put behind us.]

While I love many of the blog posts I’ve written, there’s a nagging thought that I’ve said what I can about our travels and need to rise to a new challenge. But while I entertain this horrid idea that I’m feeling stranded on the Island of Nothing to Say, maybe this is a proper indicator that I need to take a break from leaving these messages for random people. I have, after all, absolutely neglected my synth for over a year because between, I felt I had more important things to tend to.

What is there in the meaning of our experiences? Not just the aesthetic, historical, or entertaining aspects of the palette of stuff we consumed but the possible personal legacy, the process so far, and what we’ll offer ourselves aside from the silly recognition that we were somehow occupied doing anything of particular note that should be captured for posterity? I must write about this journey into Scandinavia and visiting friends and family in Germany because I know all too well the ultimate value of these spilled words can only be known at a time that’s not yet arrived.

Just in case on Condor Airlines in Frankfurt, Germany

Now, four hours into this leg of our adventure, the vast majority of passengers are asleep at the time they would otherwise be eating dinner, having a drink, and enjoying the company of others. It is Saturday night, after all, and these travelers are likely well adjusted to the time zone we have left, but instead of occupying themselves, they’ve shown who they are and bailed on being present. Those not lost in slumber by and large watch videos, but in any case, the majority of people have decided to kill time. I instead subscribe to the school of Why kill time when you can kill yourself? [Thank Cabaret Voltaire for this last reference, which can happen while listening to music as I write.]

This has me asking the question, what do these sleepers do while traveling in Europe? Is their sightseeing and investigations akin to a visit to a kind of Ikea? Realizing I am presumptuous, I should ask myself if I experience anything in any different manner. I might try to answer this, but my first thought is that I’m a pompous ass for expecting more from others who might in some way benefit my desires and enable me to indulge my hostility to malign those who I find to be inane. I should consider showing gratitude for the hundreds onboard right now who feed me the fodder I dull my writing axe with, as certainly there are more important subjects to write of than this constant refrain of indignation. Then again, when I’m attending a musical performance, I’m among others appreciating what’s being created and are attentive to the experience, but right now, I feel like I’m in a can of dolts.

I make this denigrating assumption based on the demographic information the airlines must have about their passengers because the flight attendants have asked everyone to close their window shades to mimic an early nightfall. This gets people to go to sleep or watch their little screens to get sucked in by the dumbest fare that could only appeal to the lowest common denominator of sub-intelligent people that somehow are also able to afford international travel. Otherwise, why would they create this atmosphere?

It’s intensely bright outside with a uniform white blanket of clouds layered over the ocean below and a solid blue sky above here at 38,000 feet of elevation. Within this jet, from my observations here in the economy section, there are no conversations reliving experiences; not a single other person is journaling. Maybe in business class, people are writing, working, sorting travel photos, or reading books, but sitting in row 27 here amongst my fellow peasants, there’s only this woman next to me knitting and then a large void. This method of ignoring one’s self by turning to sleep outside of normal sleeping routines or lazily tuning in to watch whatever shite they have streaming to their seat is an admission of their boredom and inability to be with themselves when they are responsible for the content.

It’s easy to have been in Rome, Berlin, or Stockholm and take in the sights; it’s quite the other to try to contextualize experiences beyond the guttural utterance of wow and amazing. At this point in their travels, they’ve collected the trophies, they’ve bought the right souvenirs, and taken selfies that they used to put themselves on display in famous locations that gave them nothing more than bragging rights.

Over the Western United States

Let’s return to Ystad, Sweden, and the idea of why we went there and what we gained: We went in order to balance the obvious trophy visits to capital cities by investing in experiences that would bring us intimately into the surrounding environment allowing for a chance encounter with a local or a stop along the path to pick an apple, pet a horse, check out an old home, or negotiate a small shop for a random bite of mystery food. Once at a place such as Ales Stenar, we get to consider the logistics of how these rather large stones got here, what the shape of the layout meant to the people who grouped them here thousands of years ago, and did they require shaping the stones so there’d be a uniformity? Now, I have a choice to either read and believe the speculation of others to come up with answers or I could attempt my own translation of potential meaning, although that is rendered difficult in an age where everything can be explained. The disappearance of mystery is quickly erasing our ability to imagine.

We were at the edge of the sea without definitive signs or carvings on the stones to decipher what the structure could mean and so we were left with the opportunity to consider what they meant to us. Did we have any reference points in our knowledge that could offer hints regarding meaning? Once finished touching each stone, walking clockwise and counter-clockwise around the monument, and finally strolling along the edge of the cliff, we continued our ride into a place where we couldn’t express what it was we were searching for within ourselves. In Loderup, Sweden, we visited the Valleberga Church, looking at the names of those buried in its cemetery, stepping inside to smell the old church, live a moment in its history, and maybe find a runestone that was hinted as being nearby.

Further along, we considered the mill that once operated in a building next to a stream where the millworks appeared missing, with only the diverted water still running under the house. We must capture all of the impressions we can as there’s some likelihood that the people of these southern Sweden communities know little of these places around them because they are boring and consequently cannot share much about them. Most people, or at least many, would prefer to visit Stonehenge, Notre Dame, or the Vatican as these are the perceived feathers in the cap of experience. This situation is the same in Arizona, where, at times, it feels as though few have visited the Grand Canyon, though it is so near.

We were in the weeds, off the beaten path, feeling the sea air and sting of the bright sun. While we would still have famous historic sights ahead of us in the days to come, we were enchanted to be among the farms, watching cows being moved from pasture to barn and observing our solitary track alone in a corner of the countryside that only we would discover today.

Not beyond reproach, we too could fail to discover moments away from the bustle of capital city centers where quick consumption of cultural history is given easy access (often outside of context), but we make the extra effort to capture the little things. Treasure, art, and architectural wonders make for great photo souvenirs, allowing us to believe everything’s been seen, but there’s an untold story and unseen surroundings that glue things together. Do these experiences open a channel of curiosity that drives us into further study, or are we content with low-effort trophies?

Before and after visiting a city such as Prague, do we understand anything more about Bohemia, the role the Habsburgs played there, or the 30 Years War? Have we cracked open a book from Franz Kafka or known of the influence of Charles University, where Einstein taught and Tesla studied? How about learning that Rainer Maria Rilke was born and studied here? Of course, many don’t and won’t care because sports, MCU, cars, guns, and game trivia play exceedingly large roles in lives uninterested in feeding imaginations to dream and create for themselves.

I get it; just because one wants to go sightseeing in Egypt doesn’t imply they must become experts on the lives of pharaohs or the construction of pyramids. Maybe the person is satisfying a childhood dream they cultivated when wanting to live vicariously through the hero’s journey, and this pilgrimage becomes a moment of realization for reasons that might be lost to time. But isn’t this, then, an admission that our dreams haven’t matured and evolved with us as we move further into life? The very nature of our humanity encourages us to build upon our knowledge before and after experiencing stories and the novelty of being exposed to cultures that came before us and to which we could be making contributions. Instead, we eschew our continuing education, and, acting like adult children; we go through the motions, collect the selfie, and move on ultimately without direction or real purpose.

Why all this heavy axe grinding, John? I profoundly dislike our empty instant-gratification-consumption culture and desire more dialog, more music, more poetry, and more study of our world by the common person because it is the common person who also denies science, falls for conspiracies, and believes in magic thinking. I do not care a lick about their economic contribution when their intellectual failings threaten our security, lives, progress, and culture itself.

I’ve looked to philosophy, theology, history, psychology, and sociology in an attempt to understand at least a modicum of what inspires us humans. I visit more churches on average than the most devout as I seek an understanding of why we accept a mediocrity among us that seems to want to turn away from the arrow of enlightenment. By not demanding more of each other, we consent to our base archetypes propagating a generalized stupidity unseen by those who believe that their version of normal is the standard bearer. I, on the other hand believe I’m closer to a troglodyte than here I wish to be. I do not read Latin, I’m stupid when it comes to chemistry, I’ve not played with trigonometry in nearly 40 years, I paint like a four-year-old, and my sieve-like memory has seemingly forgotten 93% of everything I’ve ever taken in. In essence, I feel that I don’t know shit, and so I struggle to discover where the gaps exist while others delude themselves into believing they know all they will ever need to know.

But I do have a strong opinion that we should offer the skills of discovery to our children because adults, by and large, are a lost cause with ugly habits that exacerbate their propensity to dive into the deep end of their ignorance. Rote memorization and recital of trivia, movie lines, and obedience only act to dumb us down and harm our desire to know the world. All that remains are shadows of dreams that seem to be unfulfilled by mindless consumption, the parading of belligerence, and desultory travels. And all the while, unhappiness remains part and parcel of an unsatisfying existence that struggles to find meaning. I’m convinced that greater meaning was better understood when the heavy arm of the lord pulled the masses in and demanded their obedience to the Kingdom of God and Heaven.

Over the Western United States

We were five hours from Phoenix when the lights partially brightened to wake the herd that could be woken. Later, as we get home, I’ll feel further alienated from those whose lives are ground into the earth below our feet. The deep civility and ability to converse found in Scandinavian countries further illuminated the tragic landscape of the dark cave we are dwelling in called America. Almost 200 years ago, Alexis De Tocqueville saw the character that would define the spirit of the people of the United States. Today, the traits that should have evolved out of those humble beginnings have been vulgarized to the point of pushing the lemmings to the edge of the abyss. We are an angry horde bent on personal aggrandizement, having lost our collective way. We no longer forge exemplary people; we kill children for entertainment, ensure an adequate malaise for those suffering in a rotten existence of addiction, price people out of a minimal amount of shelter, offer a pitiful education that supports our hate and contempt, and then call it freedom.

As long as there’s a flag draped over it, we can pray and believe we’re doing God’s work for the betterment of society. We are a joke, but cannot see an iota of how sick the humor is due to our economic heft and incredible ability to market anything. We somehow make it all look good, and the world follows.

What the hell? With four hours to go, the lights were turned down again. This means that in less than two hours, at about 12:30 in the middle of the night, the crew will wake the cabin and serve us dinner. While I’m hungry, I fail to understand the enforced dark/light cycle, and considering that it’s midday across America, I feel like I should regulate the relationship to sleep myself. On the other hand, to have 300 people mostly asleep means less attention must be given to the passengers, which could be a tactic to reduce stress on the crew.

For this month of travel, I’ve not intentionally listened to music or read a book. I’ve checked the news while on the toilet and looked at but a few minutes of social media just before sleep. I’ve not intentionally used an American brand outside of my Verizon phone plan or Microsoft Windows when transferring photos. In a few hours, I’ll begin to fall into old routines unless I’m frustrated enough to try to avoid some of the old stomping grounds. There’s nobody I want to share the trip with as the impressions are not resolved yet, and I’d likely have a laundry list of places and recommendations to visit that most will never be able to explore.

It’s 11:00 p.m. in Europe; we almost certainly would have been sleeping by now, except the last two nights we were out with friends and family, which had us not seeing sleep until about midnight. While it will be 3:00 a.m. European time when we land, I’m hoping the busy hand of writing will keep me awake for the duration of the flight, allowing me to sleep better through Arizona’s Saturday night.

Sometime later, I ran out of stuff to write. Caroline has finally given in to taking a nap, and my momentum is fading. With the window shade open a couple of inches, I’m hoping that the light of day propels me. I’m reminded of one of my first encounters with a drill sergeant on day one of basic training in Kentucky on a very cold April morning in 1985 when he emerged from the shadows to see a bunch of young men shivering and barked at us, asking what we were doing. A collective voice of the group rose in the darkness of the early day, “It’s cold!” With rising ferocity in his voice, he roared at us, “Who gave you permission to be cold?” This had me laugh out loud and reconsider the idea of inherent laziness and the necessity for comfort, and so here I am asking myself, “Who gave me permission to be tired?”

Arriving in Phoenix, Arizona

Conditioning, pandering, exploitation, I’m just now figuring out how the airlines are programming the herd to follow their expectations of how the masses should fall into step. A passenger in the row in front of us has been on a Rocky movie marathon. I had noticed after boarding that the entertainment offerings featured both Avatar films, all the Harry Potter movies, and five of the Pirates of the Caribbean films, but I lost count of how many of the eight Rocky films were available. When I was younger, I wouldn’t have found this nefarious, but let’s look at what’s happening here: recognizing people’s propensity to binge-watch things, these people are returning to routines within minutes of ending a vacation by allowing their minds to go fallow. Following such immersive experiences with this stream of banality feels to me as if one is fertilizing their mind with the shit of the mundane, thus covering up what they just spent thousands to acquire.

Endurance: we are approaching a spot on the planet where we’ll be under three hours remaining in flight near the border between Canada and North Dakota. Going nowhere in your seat while being thrust over the earth at 550 mph doesn’t have the same compelling effect as dragging oneself over the street of discovery where so much is to be found. I struggle to latch onto moments where wakefulness remains within grasp. After 28 days of constant go, I will indulge for one day on Sunday when nothing will be demanded of our time, but on Monday, the next cycle of non-stop endurance will be re-embraced.

The desperation that I will fail to make the final 1,500 miles of our trip awake taunts me. I negotiate small milestones, telling myself that dinner will be served in less than an hour or that if I pay attention, maybe I’ll see something spectacular out of my tiny window. I should open the shade wide to have the flash of the harshly brilliant atmosphere at 40,000 feet better communicate with my pineal gland, shocking the melatonin to stay in submission until later.

At least the blank page had lines on it for the time I was staring at it while my brain didn’t even have that. Noise is coming from the galley, but the lights remain off. We land in two hours and twenty minutes, yet most passengers are still asleep. We left Germany at 3:00 in the afternoon on Saturday, and here we are at about 3:00 in the afternoon on Saturday, except we are 5,000 miles from where we began and just under 1,000 miles from touching down. Our adventure of endurance and exploration that touched all of our senses, never allowing us to catch up with how far we were going is getting ever closer to ending.

To be relentless and able to embrace/tap our enthusiasm, heading directly into constant stimulation, is a reassurance that we are still alive in ways that are appreciated and never taken for granted by these people still seated in the 27th row.

Another hour has passed, and I’m done, but the flight isn’t. Once landed, we’ll likely wait for what will feel like an eternity or 20 minutes before getting our two checked bags from the carousel, followed by stepping into what will likely be over 100 degrees (38 Celsius) of desert heat. We’ll grab a taxi and 30 minutes later arrive at home to begin the post-vacation quick unpacking, start laundry, turn down the air-conditioning, consider shopping, or just drop down in front of our computers to start catching up with all the dumb shit we’ve missed out on.

Seriously, We Leave Frankfurt Tomorrow!

Brötchen from Café Dillenburg in Heddernheim, Germany

Caroline had this nutty idea that I should collage the first five photos of this post into a single shot. Is she crazy or what? We are quickly approaching the final 24 hours of our time in Europe this year, and while we’ll be eating Brötchen for breakfast tomorrow, too, I can’t know if I’ll have time to spare to lovingly photograph the final German rolls of our trip.

Brötchen from Café Dillenburg in Heddernheim, Germany

While at Café Dillenburg fetching breakfast, we put in an order for tomorrow’s Brötchen, some of which will be traveling home with us. Why hadn’t we thought of this on previous visits? Once home, we’ll toss them into the freezer and likely forget about them until they are freezer-burned, but no matter because they are echte Deutsche Brötchen (real German rolls), and if you don’t know what that can mean, you haven’t indulged yourself and learned how to appreciate something that is like nowhere else.

Brötchen from Café Dillenburg in Heddernheim, Germany

Pictured are the five types of Brötchen we are taking home, two of each. Sadly, I can’t now tell you what each is anymore, but I do know we have a mix of potato, carrot, rye, spelt, and whole-grain rolls. The choices were based on a sampling of the no fewer than a dozen types they carry at Café Dillenburg (formerly known as Brot & Freunde). While there are only twelve or so varieties on weekdays, the weekends can see as many as nineteen on offer.

Brötchen from Café Dillenburg in Heddernheim, Germany

Okay, I’ve got this one; it is a potato Brötchen with sesame and poppy seeds. Guide for eating my favorite rolls: cut in half and then slice width-wise, creating four equal quarters. Slather a heart-stopping amount of butter on a quarter; don’t pay attention to the German example where you can hardly tell they’ve smeared anything on the bread. Then, using a separate spoon, take the perfect amount of homemade vanilla-apricot jam (it’s important to stay away from all other jams) and be judicious as you don’t want to put the entire jar on a single quarter, else you might have to turn to a plum, rhubarb, or orange marmalade that will ruin the Brötchen experience. Someone like Caroline would likely beg to differ, but she’s a noob compared to her gourmet husband, who seriously knows everything better than everyone else.

Brötchen from Café Dillenburg in Heddernheim, Germany

I know why Caroline suggested the collage; she could have never guessed that I could write so much about the beloved Brötchen, and even if I had run out of meaningful banter, having the full-size photo of each allows me to indulge in the fantasy of the Brötchen being right in front of me here in America where I’m absolutely deprived of real bread. Don’t try telling me that Dave’s Killer Bread is pretty good; else, I’ll present you with another gold floor decoration you can lick, as you are obviously gullible enough to believe anything.

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and Stephanie Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

Guten Morgen Frau Engelhardt! I followed along with Caroline and Stephanie to Lebenshaus before bringing Jutta over to Cafe Einstein for a mid-morning treat and to say goodbye because tomorrow, we really do fly away, even if you started thinking we were going to be here forever after so many blog posts from Europe. Mom and her two daughters will spend a bit more time over their coffees after I leave before they, too, will say their goodbyes. From here, Caroline and Stephanie will have a sisters’ day out in Mainz. Caroline might add another blog entry about their adventure in the future.

This old lady, closer to the end of her life than the beginning, is all about love. This idea was nearly lost on her as she drifted near the pit of relative unhappiness (abject acceptance) right up to the age of retirement. Sadly, my mother-in-law, in her first decades on earth, only knew a kind of sterile, cold, matter-of-fact type of love. Today, she enjoys laughter that comes from within instead of a superficial, perfunctory chuckle that fails the authenticity test.

We are keenly aware that each visit with Jutta could be the last, and I believe that Caroline, Jutta, and I are okay with that; Stephanie, I’m not so sure of. I’m fairly certain that my sister-in-law will experience profound loss at Jutta’s passing as something feels unresolved, but I’m not at ease to inquire as I think I’d risk opening an avenue of hurt.

And so we’ll share a hug and offer hope for another brief visit in the morning, but time is short in those brief hours before we fly and so my goodbye for another year or two has to be memorable as I take in her smile. I have to wonder how many goodbyes are shared between people after they’ve accepted the limited time remaining for one of them though that limitation effectively hovers over all of us?

Bad Soden tram stop near Frankfurt, Germany

Klaus wasn’t with us this morning as he had to attend a conference call for work. While the women had their own ideas, Klaus had made plans that had him and me meeting up at Hauptwache so we could catch a train to Bad Soden. From there, we’d board a bus over to Königstein im Taunus, not too far outside of Frankfurt.

Currywurst in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

We were heading into the mountains to experience the best currywurst known to humankind while the plain white Kaiserbrötchen should be considered a travesty to the German culinary experience and banned in Europe.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Just kidding, we are out for a hike on the 3 Burgenweg, which ideally would have been a 13.5 kilometers (8.4 miles) hike, but we dawdled. Phew, good to get that out of the way, but what would one expect when two guys armed with cameras hit the trail on a warm, blue-sky day? Klaus assured me that this is a well-marked trail due to the hiking club that maintains the signage. Well, that might have been an overstatement.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

The evidence of suboptimal route marking is seen right here: Our hike was supposed to lead us right over to the Burgruine Königstein (Königstein Castle Ruin), which is the first part of the “3 Castles Trail” we are hiking today. We decided to forego that castle at this time and catch it at the end of the loop since we had no idea that we would leave the trail in Kronberg to make our dinner reservations at a favorite Portuguese restaurant of Klaus and Stephanie.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Okay then, off to Castle Falkenstein, which sounded a bit like Castle Frankenstein to me, though I already knew that Frankenstein is over near Darmstadt.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

I tried my best to Photoshop the haze out of this three-image panorama, but this is as good as I got. I can’t say I’ve ever seen a clearer image of the city I called home for so many years from such a distance as today. Off to the right, we could see the planes taking off at the Frankfurt Airport while in the background, about 55 kilometers (35 miles) away, is what I believe to be the Odenwald mountain range.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

And before we knew it, we were at the foot of Castle Falkenstein.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

I think Klaus and I were both surprised that the ruins were open, and not only that…

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

…the tower was also open, offering us this view of the northeast corner of Königstein.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

This is the most un-hospital-looking hospital I’ve ever seen.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Eat these and have a reason to visit the un-hospital-looking hospital.

Klaus Engelhardt on 3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Thanks, Klaus, for picking a perfect day and a perfect trail through the Taunus Mountains.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Maybe because it was only Friday afternoon and not the weekend, but we only encountered a few people, mostly on other trails that bisected our own.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

This was a huge surprise seeing that nobody would fault one for thinking that all Jewish cemeteries in Germany were wiped off the face of the earth during the Nazi reign, but then you come across one and can only scratch your head and wonder, “How did this survive?”

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Following Klaus, as he handles the guidance responsibilities, absolves me of anything more than being present. What an awesome gift on our last day in Germany. No thinking, just wandering.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

This is Bürgelplatte, which appears to be all that remains of what might have been a small castle a long time ago.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

It’s a shame that when I was in my 20s, I thought nightlife was the best life for me and that these places surrounding Frankfurt were for old people. Well, here I am now, an old person proving younger me right.

3 Burgen Weg in Königstein im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

I wonder where this giant boulder came from. Is it a glacial erratic, or was it unearthed? I don’t believe it fell off a formerly high cliff landing here before erosion wore away the mountain. I tried learning something about it, but while others have photographed it, I can find no explanation for the mystery boulder.

Kronberg im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

We’ve reached Kronberg Castle, which is closing in just a few minutes. No matter, as we need a bite to eat and something to drink before catching a train back to Frankfurt to join Caroline and Stephanie for dinner.

Kronberg im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

In the mid-1980s, after arriving in Germany with the U.S. Army, I spent my first six months wandering the Rhein-Main area of Hessen and went to countless villages via anonymous train stops that I kept no record of. I have no recollection if I’ve ever visited the castle herein Kronberg but I want to return with Caroline now that I’ve stopped here.

Kronberg im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

These are the Drei Ritter (Three Knights) at Friedrich Ebert Straße in Kronberg. The characters above represent debauchery, and the words below translate to, “Your advice is far too late.”

Kronberg im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

This is St. Johann Church, and it’s Protestant, so I can just forget about entering on a Friday.

Kronberg im Taunus near Frankfurt, Germany

Gasthaus Adler has a menu that talks to me, it even screams at me to return for its Austrian-influenced eats.

Main River in Frankfurt, Germany

How I managed to snag this photo from a moving train will always be a surprise, as they so rarely work out. Klaus and I were on our way to Tasquinha da Jacinta to sample some Portuguese cooking at one of Klaus and Stephanie’s favorite restaurants in the Frankfurt area. Sorry, there are no photos of us or our meals but it was so nice to relax and do nothing that I took advantage of the moment to just hang out. Dinner was great, though you’ll wait a good long time for service since the place is popular, packed, and only open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.

Ginnheim tram stop in Frankfurt, Germany

Passing through the Ginnheim tram stop, look closely; this is a self-portrait.

Zeilweg tram stop in Heddernheim, Germany

If only the day were over! We need to knock out the majority of our packing so we can avoid as much stress in the morning as possible. Talk about using every single moment of vacation to remain busier than we ever are at home: this was quite the endurance test. For all intents and purposes, vacation is over.

Are We Gone Yet? Nope, This is Frankfurt

Heddernheim in Frankfurt, Germany

Good morning to the dawn, and hello to the light of day. Thank you for welcoming us into another waking moment where we can consider how we might use our time to wander into the most amazing lives we’ll ever know.

Heddernheim in Frankfurt, Germany

And here comes the sun to shine on Café Dillenburg where we are fetching our daily bread and entertaining the idea that we could bring some of their Brötchen home with us, and I’m not only talking about this home away from home at Haus Engelhardt. With our morning meal bagged up, we raced back to Blauwiesenweg, where the butter and all variety of jams will join a pot of coffee for the greatest breakfast ever experienced. Unless you know the real pleasures of echtes Deutsches Brot, you cannot relate to my endorsement of this fascination and luxury to be had when munching on fresh Brötchen with homemade jams.

Frankfurt, Germany

No time to spare as we have things to do and people to see. The vacation within the vacation continues, while the vacation from vacation(s) will have to wait until Saturday night after we land and all of Sunday before Caroline steps back into work and I get busy trying to knock out a bunch of blog posts. Having only about 36 hours of recuperation sounds dire and likely difficult considering our age, but that’ll be nothing a lot of coffee can’t conquer.

Frankfurt, Germany

Who schedules these itineraries? It’s already 9:45 as we near the corner where Lebenshaus sits across from the Main River; our first date of the day is expecting us any minute.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Lebenshaus in Frankfurt, Germany

Guten Morgen, Frau Engelhardt. Hello, Mr. Wise. With the formalities out of the way and Jutta finished with her breakfast, we offer the briefest of visits as we are meeting someone at the Hauptbahnhof in less than an hour, but we’ll be back later.

Lebenshaus in Frankfurt, Germany

Yo dude, how’s God?

Römer in Frankfurt, Germany

Check the background; God is everywhere.

Römer in Frankfurt, Germany

I wonder, too, about how many times I’ve shared a photo from right here at Römer, but today, I’m trying something new; later, I’ll share another photo of Römerberg but from a different angle.

Subway station in Frankfurt, Germany

While this might look like a decoration in the floor of something or other, it’s actually a 1000-year-old rod of gold that was buried by a Valkyrie and is said to provide eternal life to all those who lick it to taste the flavor of Valhalla that it connects to. I swear.

Hauptbahnhof in Frankfurt, Germany

Seems I might have misread this sign in the past. A dozen years ago, Caroline and I were visiting the Montreal Basilica, and I thought this sign (displayed without the Psst message) was a signal to parents that it was okay for children to pick their noses, but seeing the sign like this changes the meaning significantly. I thought about correcting that old post, but I’ve decided to leave it as proof that for once in my 60 years, I’m owning one of my mistakes.

Claudia and Caroline Wise at the Hauptbahnhof in Frankfurt, Germany

It was just a year ago that this mystery woman on the left (I already know the one on the right) was this elusive figure from the Cologne, Germany, area the world had never seen. Today, I’m unmasking her: she is Claudia, the Brünnhilde of fiber arts, kumihimo, and tablet weaving, to be exact. Last year, Caroline traveled north to see her in person for the first time; today, Claudia traveled south so these two could meet again. How they have anything to discuss is beyond me as they chat on a near-daily basis, making the most of the time between Caroline going to sleep and Claudia’s waking to punctuate some rare time Claudia seems to find between performing her super-human; I think Nietzsche called it “Ubermenschian,” feats of fiber knowledge distillery that could only have emerged from mythology.

Caroline Wise's foot and her friend Claudia in Frankfurt, Germany

I think jealousy is in order here because consider this: Caroline loves me and makes me socks. Claudia has knitted a pair of socks for Caroline that she’s modeling right here, and while blurred, I think it’s obvious that Claudia is looking lovingly at this “wedding banded sock” pattern that I think the women were hoping I wouldn’t notice.

After allowing Claudia to buy us lunch because who doesn’t need a free meal after what we just spent in Scandinavia, I stormed off in a jealous huff of rage to drown my sorrows.

Frankfurt, Germany

At first, I considered throwing myself on the subway tracks, but this poster looking for leads of a corpse found in the Spandau forest back in 1988 kind of depressed me. Those haunting, hollow eyes made me realize that death wasn’t an option for me. But ice cream was.

Spaghetti Eis at Eis Christina in Nordend Frankfurt, Germany

The race against time unwinding is on with only 48 hours left before we step out of Europe to return home to the U.S. I’d opened a small window of two hours where I’d attempt to plumb some inspiration to write, but the limitation feels harrowing as my inclination is to shove the intensity of the previous month onto the page in as many words that I can wring out of my hand. I didn’t anticipate that the location I’d chosen to find my wit would be as busy as I found it, but it was a beautiful late summer day at the most popular ice cream shop in Frankfurt. I should have moved to a coffee shop, but minutes are precious when the clock cannot be paused.

Life is like this bowl of ice cream, refreshing and sweet, but it’s melting and will go away. I have a choice not to finish every drop and allow the remainder to be carried off, but who would allow a second or a drop to not be savored?

For 34 years, I’ve been returning to this corner at Wielandstrasse and Eckenheimer Landstrasse in Frankfurt’s north end. I lived nearby for six years and took everything other than my relationship with Caroline for granted as it was all just normal life of no special importance. Only in retrospect have I gained the perspective that the years of our 20s contribute greatly to our romantic notions and nostalgia for the world we were exploring as it lingers into the years. We were defining and shaping the people who would enter the next decade excited or bored, satisfied or angry, challenged or defeated.

Frankfurt, Germany

I see a couple of elderly ladies well into their 80s at an adjacent table while seemingly mirror images from their past; two young ladies about 21 years old are seated at the table on their other side. The young women have no idea yet that their future selves are already forming inside them and that what is so intensely important to them on this day will lose all importance before they know it. The rapid advancement and intrusion of technology and an ever-present media have torn the fabric between generations into irreparable shreds where the groups are nearly alien to each other. There is no regard for the elderly, who are bulldozed into giving up their bearings and made to feel incompetent, while youth have no time for studied reflection or even self-study before having to respond to the next wave of electronic stimulation.

When do we arrive at the place where we start to gather the knowledge that will best serve us? Are we collectively fooled into believing that the essentials are found in clothes, hair products, a favorite sports franchise, the band we currently love, or the subject blowing up on viral media? To be a composite of media contrivances is a cruel joke on the masses who feast upon anything other than the bitter questions of what it might mean to exist.

Frankfurt, Germany

There’s no suggestion that any particular area of study is going to deliver a hint of enlightenment or happiness. Likewise, only the idiot would fall for what’s being fed to society. For the sake of transparency, I, too, have played the idiot, and to an extent and on occasion still do. But, I also have some inkling that I must struggle in the word soup of my mind and ask myself: is this good enough? Have I been wasting my precious attention?

The line at the ice cream shop snaked around the corner as a kind of proof that we gravitate towards the sweet, and rarely do we lineup for the bitter. Bitterness introduces a grimace and the consternation that we have to contextualize our experience to find the value; it is not readily apparent. Time for me to go for a walk.

Starting from Nordend, I walked until I reached the Alte Nikolaikirche (Old St. Nicholas Church) on Römerberg. I dipped inside to take a respite from the bustle of the busiest square in the city. There are four of us in the church, which is peculiar when one considers how frequently it’s photographed. Then again, who on a sunny Thursday afternoon is interested in communing with their soul? The house of God is cold and nearly empty, and I suppose rightfully so when cake & coffee or a beer under a warming sun invites indulgence. I wonder if Jesus stands in a corner wondering where his faithful are.

Römer in Frankfurt, Germany

Turning from the Lord, whom I do not know, to my mother-in-law, whom I’m quite familiar with, I leave the church for the short walk to Lebenshaus but not before delivering that second promised photo from a different angle of Römerberg.

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise at Lebenshaus in Frankfurt, Germany

We must try our best to capture the increasingly rare moments of the few that still exist, with those who have had impactful impressions upon who we’ve become. The math of what remains with a person of 88 years of age under their hat is one of numbers growing smaller. While my mother-in-law had nothing to do with my upbringing or early life impressions, she did have those impacts on the woman with whom I fell head over heels in love, her daughter Caroline. Not only that though, Jutta spent many a vacation with us in the United States, and in every departing, I had to contend with how I saw myself and how I interacted with Caroline’s mother. Her initial visits tended to be marred by my lack of sympathy and understanding of aging people. I struggled with the intransigence of someone habituated to a routine incompatible with my own. Reconciling my belligerence helped me grow and understand where the roots of those poisons were planted and what fed them; if I’m lucky, lessons were pressed right into my heart, and today, I’m a better person for my time shared with this lady.

Jutta Engelhardt and Caroline Wise at Lebenshaus in Frankfurt, Germany

Shoot, earlier, I went on some made-up tirade about some tryst or something between Caroline and Claudia; yeah, well, I was joking, but I did go have a Spaghetti Eis because every time is a good time for a treat from Eis Christina. Sadly, upon our return to Phoenix, we learned that after 50 years in business, Eis Christina is calling it quits, at least at this location, as they left a hint they could open elsewhere in the future, but that remains uncertain.

What is certain is that Caroline still loves me and will still make socks for me and that she loves her mother. Rarely does a Sunday pass while we are in the States that these two don’t talk on the phone for at least a couple of hours, and while we are in Germany, we try to take every opportunity to say hi, take her out for a sweet, sit with her next to the river, have a coffee, and simply share time with her.

Main River in Frankfurt, Germany

So much beauty, potential for happiness, and great moments can be found in a day, though this seems amplified by the fact that we are traveling and only in places momentarily. Stopping to think about it, isn’t that what we have at home, too? What is it about routine that throws a pall over the day? Could it be that while engaged in habit, we forget to look up and see what our reality is? Well, I think it’s that and something else, which is the attitude of those around us. If the outlook of those around us carries an intellectual pallor that is gloomy and full of dark storms, we risk getting pulled into their maelstrom. We can walk across the bridge with someone we love and with whom we enjoy smiling and delight at the opportunity to be taking in life, but we can also fail to see any hope due to depression and gravity that pulls those exposed to negativity and despair into the void.

Main River in Frankfurt, Germany

I think of my own days walking through this city, unable to see the brilliance of the day, when everything was cast in shades of gray due to my dejection of not only feeling like an outsider in this foreign land but also because I felt like an outsider of the human race. That version of me, which wasn’t a daily thing but frequent enough that scars remain, is a person I’m happy to have left behind. Hardly a day goes by where I don’t wonder why society cultivates this type of harm against those who are vulnerable and what it is in the human character that desires to hurt those already in pain. While I’m an atheist, I still care for those who are poor, not only financially but poor of confidence and societal acceptance due to some perceived flaws that allow those of privilege to cast aspersions.

I’m not one considering an entry to the idea of heaven, but to too many of those who claim faith, how do you reconcile your blatant ignorance of the book that holds many lessons that are wholesome and good with the harm you inflict on the poor, hurt, and depressed people that are likely suffering due to your lack of concern to repair a society that rewards harm and aggression against those who cannot defend against your systems? Isn’t it your bible where the quote, It is easier for a camel to go through the eye of a needle than for a rich man to enter into the kingdom of God, comes from?

Main River in Frankfurt, Germany

Please don’t take this last quote that a rich man is only the person with a lot of money; it pertains to all of us who have a rich life even if we are not financially in the greatest of places. What do we give to others? What do we take away or deny? Are we only rowing forward for our own sake? I supposed I’m okay with that reality, but then let’s put the pretense of some Christian ideology behind us. Let’s do away with the lies and admit that we are selfish, petulant little assholes enjoying the greed bag of stuff we can claw away from others. You, who give back through sharing knowledge, care, art, music, medicine, teaching, and protecting others, are the best part of Team Humanity that society cultivates on the margin.

Olaf and Sylvia with John and Caroline in Frankfurt, Germany

Today feels like a lesson in how to slice time into a hundred pieces. We started with breakfast at Haus Engelhardt, dipped in on Jutta, met up with a distant friend, ate ice cream, wrote, returned to Jutta, thought some more, and wrote, finishing the day with dinner in honor of our friends Olaf and Sylvia and their (by now young adult) children Johnny and Lucy. While this was possibly in recognition of Olaf’s upcoming birthday, I think it was more about friends getting together on one of the rare opportunities we are in proximity to each other’s orbit.

On our way, we stumbled past Dal Bianco Pizza on Darmstädter Landstrasse, which appears to be the long-lost place that I thought had the greatest garlic bread ever back when I lived in Sachsenhausen for some months around 1991, but that’s another story. I’m leaving this note here with the hopes that on a subsequent visit to Germany, we’ll remember that I left his breadcrumb. Closing out the night, Olaf introduced me to a couple of things he’s currently listening to; at the top of the list for me is the psychedelic band Wooden Shjips; he also encouraged me a listen to Little Simz, born to Nigerian parents in London, England. I find her real name, Simbiatu “Simbi” Abisola Abiola Ajikawo, far more interesting than Little Simz.

Moving in Reverse to Find the Exit

Caroline Wise at a tram stop in Frankfurt, Germany

I’ve been here before, meaning almost everywhere in Frankfurt. I feel no urgency to photograph anything because to see things unseen before today will prove difficult. A walk along the Main River, a visit to the cathedral, or any number of points? I no longer feel the pull to reacquaint myself with this city that is incredibly familiar and simultaneously distant. This is likely obvious if you’ve seen yesterday’s post that was a reflection of how unmotivated I was to document anything and only managed to share nine images and barely a thousand words.

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and Katharina Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

Important memories though remain essential, and before leaving Caroline, Jutta, and Katharina to have a lady’s afternoon, I had to grab a group shot to memorialize the generations.

Locks on Eiserner Steg bridge in Frankfurt, Germany

Others are more interested in leaving a love lock on a bridge, which is a way of tagging a space and showing that “Kilroy and his girlfriend were here.” Throwing the keys into the river assures their love cannot be undone which ultimately ends in tragedy because someone must come along and destroy this connection by cutting it off the railing and disposing of it. Then again, all things are temporary, and the sentiment of the moment of leaving this visual sign for others is a romantic notion worth celebrating.

Frankfurt, Germany

If you are a native English speaker and could read this, you might think it’s a joke, but Die Partei is real and holds one seat in the European Parliament. As for the messaging of the sticker, it reads Fuck All of You! As for their name, The Party, yes, it is a satire of fascist parties and is also a backronym meaning Partei für Arbeit, Rechtsstaat, Tierschutz, Elitenförderung und basisdemokratische Initiative (“Party for Labour, Rule of Law, Animal Protection, Promotion of Elites and Grassroot-Democratic Initiative”). In America, we have a rigid two-party system that languishes in a stalemate of lethargy while compromise has been lost to hate and division.

Frankfurt, Germany

This city remains in constant motion, a stream of things, ideas, architecture, culture, people, and the flow of the river that slices through it. Everything is changing, a perpetual movement that doesn’t stop for people, time, or the stupidity of politics and biases that so often stymie cities and populations in the United States. Frankfurt has a peculiar nature of drawing things in and pushing them right back out, be it capital, music, philosophy, art, trade, or whatever it is that needs to find wider distribution.

Frankfurt, Germany

This constant movement of change doesn’t stop people from trying to hold onto time by entering routines where places and favorite stops along the way are habituated. Jobs and school help lend ideas of permanence, as do the hymns sung at church. There will always be those searching for consistency that assures them that they are living in a kind of eternal moment where their existence might remain until the end of their time on earth.

Begging in Frankfurt, Germany

And then age makes an appearance. Not the common day-to-day, year-to-year kind of stuff but the shuffling, walker, or cane-assisted slow pull into dissonance that will affect us all. Will you schlep your frame with grace or will you deny what everyone else around already knows? Denial among the elderly regarding their situation is as rife as the young are oblivious that they are spending their precious years chasing marketing dreams and fantasies created by capital.

Frankfurt, Germany

Did I see even one Litfaßsäule (advertising column) in Scandinavia or a wall at a train station featuring upcoming events? For all the talking we did with locals, we never asked about the local cultural scene. Reason #39 to return.

Subway stop in Frankfurt, Germany

Heading to Bergerstrasse in Bornheim Mitte, long-time residents will lament perceived gentrification, but the reality is more likely that the elderly of the aging neighborhood will move into assisted living like my mother-in-law did, and the young professionals and foreigners will be seen as interlopers ruining the place, just as Caroline and I get that vibe about Nordend where we used to live.

Subway stop in Frankfurt, Germany

The generation that took up residence here was coming of age and growing up out of the conflict of war. They are rapidly aging out, and as they leave Bornheim, the businesses that catered to them are no longer trendy, and the new residents are demanding services that speak to their dreams. Churn will happen, and businesses will leave, but if this corner of Frankfurt is lucky, laughter will return as many a grumpy old person appears to have lost the ability to laugh. Look at those who remain; there is a weary misery behind their eyes as they grow increasingly isolated.

Writing in Frankfurt, Germany

Of those who are young but in misery, the human necessity to explore waking dreams is largely broken. Maybe someone wasn’t able to identify with their parents or friends who were too focused on their own interests to support the child/teen. Other parents are more interested in pushing their own agenda on the indifferent child. Using children as surrogates of the self and our unrealized dreams, we spurn the mystery of what is sparking the imagination of a youngster. What sparks the curiosity of young people cannot be known or controlled by adults dominating this evolving person. At best, we can take a keen interest in the aspirations of others and allow them to share ideas with us instead of foisting ourselves on them. Isn’t this relationship the basis of a sharing love between people anyway?

Frankfurt, Germany

A mentoring inspirational role is a preferable path compared to the more often employed master/slave dictatorial relationship that brings out resentment or uncertainty. How is love given, and how is it taken or received? What happens when it’s demanded?

Döner Kebab in Frankfurt, Germany

We can recycle many things and will need to dispose of others. We can acquire skills, money, property, and lunch, but we have no means of trading emotions and dreams that can be intrinsically absorbed by others. Maybe stories can offer glimmers of possibilities if the listener is already familiar with what they can feed us.

Frankfurt, Germany

We either define our path in terms that are compatible with the herd, or we suffer being cast down the wrong trail where the chasm of the downtrodden falls into ruin. Once lost in despair, we often perform enough self-abuse to finish the harm our parents and society managed to miss. Deeply confused and wondering if we are the only ones experiencing such uncertainty, we can choose to ignore the nagging thoughts about existence. Are we on the right track, or must we inebriate ourselves, blaming our existential angst on factors perceived to be bigger than ourselves? From here, we can turn to God if we haven’t already, which is likely a valid salve for most people as it offers a quick and absolving message to trust God for all of these issues that are larger than we are.

Frankfurt, Germany

Who among us has time, mentors, or interest to answer big questions when the need for instant gratification looms over us and takes us down the path of consumption? Finding the headspace to explore the voids within can be treacherous going for the intellectually ill-equipped. Even those inclined to delve into the fragile domain of understanding and self-discovery often discover the risks, faltering into a pit of malaise built of their own making.

Frankfurt, Germany

Awareness of pitfalls is only the smallest factor in this equation. How to help one another find love and respect that can buffer a hostile inner and outer world is a dilemma I struggle to document as I go writing. Because I seem to have found my way, I’m desperate to formalize it into a recipe I could share, but meeting with resistance from others who feel that their brand of uncertainty and confusion is unique to them, I must first unravel the threads that separate us.

Grüne Soße in Frankfurt, Germany

Seeds give rise to plants; plants mature and become food that also produces more seeds, which perpetuates the cycle of replenishment. On a farm, weeds invade the cultivated fields, and for a time, our scientists believed that the most poisonous of substances that were prone to unintended side effects were needed to enter into warfare against undesirable growth. This is nearly identical to how we deal with people on the margins of society: we wish they would disappear. We poison them with drugs, alcohol, incarceration, and homelessness, and while some perish and vanish, those that remain inadvertently create consequences that feed a sense of crisis among those of us who wonder why our neighborhoods have taken on apocalyptic appearances.

Frankfurt, Germany

Breaking out new laws to wash the scourge away will never work, nor will militarized police forces but the alternative of trying to bring back a society to a kind of order of the mind and not rotting in mediocrity might be a task too grand for hope. The proverbial saying, “You made your bed, now lie in it,” tells us to face the consequences of our actions and that might be exactly what is facing us. No amount of soap can clean away our self-centered stupidity that puts the accumulation of wealth above all else, including the divine.

Drunk in Frankfurt, Germany

This man is piss-drunk, literally. His pants are wet down to his feet. He is so drunk that he spills most of the beer he has no interest in drinking because he’s consumed by wild gesturing and engaging me in conversation while I can’t make sense of a single slurred word. He had two bottles in his hands but one was flung without him noticing that it left his orbit. It was gladly picked up by another drunkard, surprised as much as I was that the bottle hadn’t shattered. This is how I see my fellow Americans, a ranting mess of piss-drunk nationalists unaware that they are throwing their democracy away like it’s a worthless bottle of beer all because they love reveling in jingoistic bullshit that only makes sense to the other inebriated half-wits, unaware of how stupid and lost they appear.

Writing in Frankfurt, Germany

That’s all I’ve got. I’ve stopped again and again today to write and didn’t go very far walking around Frankfurt. I imagine that Jutta, Caroline, and Katharina were off enjoying themselves, not kvetching about the ills of society. Maybe I absolve them of needing to yammer about such things thus allowing them to enjoy each other company while I work out the gravity of what ails us. This is part of my burden; my Sisyphean struggles with a pen.

Frankfurt, Germany

Enough of that; time for dinner with the Engelhardts in celebration of Stephanie’s birthday. Klaus had gotten a tip that this vegan Vietnamese place was highly recommended, and if getting a reservation on a Wednesday night is as difficult as this was, then it must be the popular place. Well, by the time we were leaving Ong Tao the restaurant was packed. For Germany, I understand why this place is popular, and vegan options are all the rage in many big cities in this part of Europe. They have a good thing going, but those of us who have had the opportunity to eat authentic Vietnamese food likely have a better understanding of just how much serious flavor is missing. All the same, we were not here for our own culinary experience; it was for Stephanie and her 58th Geburtstag.

Caroline Wise at Gluckstrasse 8 in Frankfurt, Germany

For the first time in 28 years, after finding an open door, we stepped into Gluckstrasse 8,  the building in which Caroline and I lived together before moving to the United States. How strange it was to head up to “our” door. Had someone been there, I would have knocked just to have a peek inside. Sure, this is where our love blossomed but not without an amount of tumult that makes the fact that we are still together all the more surprising.

Subway stop in Frankfurt, Germany

Germany is moving closer to disgorging us as we travel almost in reverse compared to the way we came into our vacation.

Going Home, Before Going Home

Flying out of Bergen, Norway

Who needs alarms when flying early in the morning? Not us; we were up about 10 minutes before our wrists were supposed to start vibrating at 4:00 a.m. In quick order, we were dressed and headed downstairs to wait for the taxi we’d arranged for yesterday.

Flying over Europe somewhere

Above it all and mostly distanced after 17 days in Scandinavia, we are still in a relatively safe space but that was coming to an unexpected end.

Flying over Germany

Two hours after leaving Norway, we are on the streets of Frankfurt, dragging our bags along for our first stop. On the train out of the airport, we noticed a marked difference between the polite and trusting Scandinavian culture we had left behind and the brusque and maybe even abrasive Germans. After 17 days of super civility, I wasn’t ready for the rude high school kids on a field trip riding in the same direction as us. Sadly, and yes, I’m aware that this will carry a hint of racism, their ethnicity combined with their aberrant behavior is part of what is likely giving rise to/sustaining the evergrowing nationalism in countries that are trying to integrate a growing immigrant population due to their own shrinking population. If you live in one of Germany’s big cities, you are likely inured to this spectacle of crass antics, but I can see how small towns would feel the sting.

The perspective shift of being enchanted when we land in Germany coming in from the U.S. is lost on entering from Scandinavia. Germany can be a bit cold and distant, but it’s mostly polite, respectful, and rule-driven, in stark contrast to the potential-of-violence-at-any-moment style of American uncertainty. If I’m reluctant about returning to the States after we visited Europe, this will be amplified when we return to Phoenix this coming weekend.

Frankfurt, Germany

Frühstück (breakfast) was at Cafe Liebfrauenberg near Kleinmarkthalle. Not our first choice, but with our bags in tow (including the broken-wheel suitcase), we were more interested in shortening the distance between getting something to eat and visiting with my mother-in-law, Jutta. While still sipping my coffee, Caroline zipped around the corner to a sewing shop, hoping to find a few notions she might be able to use to repair her quickly disintegrating purse strap that, after years of constant use, was about to render the bag useless.

Here I am, no longer just a tourist. I should be able to write something meaningful, but constant distractions drag my eye and mind to watching the goings on around me instead of slipping into exploring the profound. To write, I must drop into a kind of routine where my focus is undisturbed by novelty. When I’m able to look within and between the thoughts that give rise to impressions, my hand feels mysteriously compelled to leave words on the page. I’m aware that the majority of words that fall from my pen can be mundane and mediocre, but on occasion, I find that what has appeared from a recess of my mind exceeds any hopes I might have had to produce such eloquence. That is what I’d like to aim for all the time.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt in Frankfurt, Germany

We’ve moved over to Lebenshaus, but Jutta is participating in an exercise program, and while we can see her, she’s not become aware of us yet. As we watch, I see residents I’ve become familiar with over the past couple of years and notice that changes in aging for the elderly can be significant. The process of decay robs people of a lot. This could be a part of our future, yet few of us are prepared for this. Slow death is not a popular entertainment subject nor a part of reality TV. How and why do we choose to hide the elderly or, at best, relegate them to the margin where they need not be acknowledged?

Am I on the spectrum regarding my social tensions? We are at Zum Standesämtchen and I’m starting to seethe at the empty state of these vacuous lower-order excuses for humans on vacation. Dignified people do not stand with mouths agape, we should not get pissy with someone talking in their native tongue to us in their country. They have no obligation to speak your version of one of the 7,117 languages distributed around our earth. We owe it to ourselves to, at a minimum, master our mother tongue, speak clearly with concision, and, when appropriate, slow things down and temper the volume. You are in someone else’s culture, and respect starts with you.

Creampuff in Frankfurt, Germany

When in a public space, I do not care where you’re from or what you like or don’t like about your vacation, life, or job. If it’s hot and humid or raining, nobody needs your pronouncement of the obvious. This is not small talk; it is the inanity of someone who needs to be at the center of attention or is afraid of the quiet. And don’t admonish me to pay attention to my own business as you drag yourself on stage screeching and dressing in ways that say, “LOOK AT ME!” The same goes for those of you sporting face tats and musculature that verges into the spectacle. You need and obviously desire attention and cannot dictate when your clown-ass has others gawking.

Away from Römer at Cafe Einstein with the throngs on the otherside of the threshold, I’m able to enjoy the moment with Jutta, sharing our experiences and a few photos from our vacation within a vacation. We spent a couple of hours at lunch and then another couple here chatting over coffee and sweets, which is not known as fika here in Germany.

Frankfurt, Germany

The plaque here at Römer reads:

On this site, on 10 May 1933, national socialist students burned the books of authors, scientists, publicists, and philosophers.

The outer ring reads:

That was only a prelude. Wherever they burn books, in the end, will also burn human beings. 1820 Heinrich Heine

Frankfurt, Germany

The sign says Construction Site Entry and I believe you should heed this as an admonition pertaining to your life; you are under construction and need to recognize that the work upon yourself is a never-ending project.

Frankfurt, Germany

Over the course of the last weeks in Scandinavia, embedded among the more than 67,000 words I’ve penned were near-daily laments of the behaviors of those I could only wish were not on vacation at the same time we were. If I were as smart as I’d like to aspire to you, I should have encapsulated it all into this succinct poster we saw towards the end of the day, “You are not a tourist. You are an ambassador.” Come to think about it, doesn’t this apply to the very person we’d like others to perceive?

The Odds and Ends of Bergen, Norway

Rainy scene in Bergen, Norway

Is that the patter of rain upon our window as we stir awake? It was inevitable that we should have at least one day out of the seventeen in Scandinavia that the forecast would deliver its promise, and here is that day, our last day before flying back to Frankfurt in the earliest hours of the morning tomorrow. This won’t be the first time we’ve seen the weather change as a signal that our time in our current location is coming to a close and that we’ll be moving on. If the rain is especially hard, it would also then become the perfect excuse to have a down day where we would catch up on writing and knitting, enjoy a last fika or two, another hot dog, or even make a serious effort to try whale so we can feel guilty for years to come. Just writing that assures me that we’ll never find ourselves eating a whale steak.

Comic bookstore in Bergen, Norway

After our languorous two-hour breakfast catching up on yesterday’s need for notes and in no hurry to rush into the rain, it felt like the time had arrived to move our numb butts away from the buffet and brave the wet outdoors. With umbrellas at the ready, we aimed for the hotel door only to see a respite from the rain. Oh, lucky day. Walking over to a church we hoped to visit first, we passed a comic bookshop with a cover in the window that caught Caroline’s eye. I thought the photo would suffice, but after a few steps and Caroline reading a bit about the artist, we agreed that we should take a second look. The proprietor showed us all the comic books he currently had in stock, which would have been lighter to pack, but we decided on the book in the window. [The cover might have had something to do with that. – Caroline] Fewer than 24 hours left in Scandinavia, and we’ve met the first person who only accepts cash.

Norwegian Kroners

We should be grateful to the man at Comics & Stories on Lodin Lepps Gate as after a very short walk around the corner to an ATM, we are seeing and holding Norwegian Kroners for the first time in our lives, which has us realizing that we never saw what the bills from Sweden or Denmark look like. With a copy of EON from Lars Lauvik now with us, we’ll have some translating to do once we get home and find the time to open the pages of Syvende Mor I Bedehuset, which Google translated to Seventh Mother In The Prayer House.

Bryggen in Bergen, Norway

There will never be enough time to satisfy the curiosity of exploring anywhere I’ve ever been or will go to. I can’t speak about the exploration of death yet, but my experience from a limited view of places I’ve visited suggests that weeks would be required to begin feeling like I’d become familiar enough not to entertain a small amount of panic that it is already time to go. To call that a panic is probably hyperbolic, except that it fits my inclination to lean into drama when the opportunity arises. The truth is I’m able to contain the tensions/sadness when I look at all of these fortunate encounters with the idea that we’ve merely become acquainted with places that might summon us back due to too many unsatisfied curiosities left to discover. All the same, I feel a certain need to turn over the leaves that show the corners and details that make up the big picture, and so today, I’m sharing the odds and ends found on our walk through Bergen.

Mariakyrken (St. Mary's Church) in Bergen, Norway

Did we really expect the doors of Mariakyrken (St. Mary’s Church) to be open for welcoming visitors? Of course, we did, and if had been raining, we could have sought refuge. Please, don’t remind me that we have umbrellas with us. I want my traveler trophies found in the photos of beautiful things I’m able to capture, but when I stop and think about it, these doors, the ironwork, and the heavy stones that support the church are spectacular in their own right. Trying to find out if and when the church is open, I came to learn that its limited hours (outside of summer) are Tuesdays and Fridays from noon until 2:00 p.m.

Snorri Sturluson statue in Bergen, Norway

This is awesome, a statue honoring the chronicler Snorri Sturluson from Iceland, who was not only a historian, poet, and politician but was friends with a king who likely had him murdered. You may not know about the Prose Edda (most likely) penned by Sturluson, but you probably know J.R.R. Tolkien’s derivative works that were highly influenced by the Edda: The Hobbit, Lord of the Rings, and Silmarillion. We first learned of Snorri Sturluson a decade ago when we dove into a book about the Vikings, and it turned out that this man of many hats was the primary source of most of what we know of that age.

Rainy scene in Bergen, Norway

We headed back to the Bergen Cathedral because somewhere had read that it was open. No, it wasn’t; its hours are more limited than St. Mary’s: it closed about a half-hour after we arrived on Friday afternoon, the only day it’s open for a mere two hours. Good thing wet cobblestones glisten under the sky, making up for whatever spectacular sights we might have otherwise seen in the cathedral.

Rainy scene in Bergen, Norway

Somewhere between 1,200 mm (47 inches) and 2,500 mm (98 inches – 8 feet!) of rainfall in this city per year. I almost forgot to mention that two weeks before we flew from Arizona to Germany, a heavy storm washed out roads in Norway and Sweden and derailed a train, which contributed to our need to take buses for part of our journey.

Godt Brød in Bergen, Norway

Striking out trying to visit two different churches, the only thing left to do was drop in on a Church of Bread, Godt Brød. Morning fika? Sure, but we’ll split this cardamom roll because lunch is just around the corner. I’ll use the time to write in my endeavor to stay as current as possible about the events of the day.

But I can’t find the urgency to write and feel that I’m mainly sitting here with pen in hand, waiting for inspiration to strike. Maybe I’ll find it in the toilet? I’ll be right back. Nope, nothing there; maybe the hot dog stand will deliver food for the imagination.

Caroline Wise at Godt Brød in Bergen, Norway

Meanwhile, the woman across from me, likely eyeballing the theft of at least a bite of my half of the Kardemummabullar, has armed herself with a needle to stab me should I make a move on her half of the roll. Either she’s thinking of stabbing me, or she could be knitting; I’m never really sure when I’m lost in trying to ignore her while I selfishly pay attention to my notebook and everything else around me. In her right ear, she’s listening to Washington: A Life by Ron Chernow, which, at nearly 1,000 pages, is quite the long listen and delves into granular details; ask me how I know.

It’s peculiar, having no urgency to race into the last moments of this vacation. To simply sit here with the knowledge that the journey is coming to a quick close, and that’s okay. Strangely, returning to Frankfurt tomorrow feels like going home, though we are still five days away from our return flight to Arizona.

Rainy scene in Bergen, Norway

We’d already snagged a couple of Pølse (hotdogs) from across the way at Treskroneren when the sky yawned and let off a torrent in which the hardy locals kept going like it didn’t matter while we desert dwellers cowered under an awning to munch on our cheesy-bacon wieners because who likes soggy buns. Ten minutes later, the rain faded, and we were once again underway. Our walk over to the Leprosy Museum was for naught as yesterday was the last day of the season it would be open. Come back in April 2024 for a visit, the sign suggested. Too bad on missing this one, as it was right here in Bergen back in 1873, one-hundred-fifty years ago, that a young doctor named Gerhard Armauer Hansen discovered the leprosy bacteria, which is why leprosy is also referred to as Hansen’s disease.

Strikkelykke yarn store in Bergen, Norway

You’ll never believe what happened next. We revisited the Strikkelykke yarn store and left with one more locally dyed skein.

Nykirken (New Church) in Bergen, Norway

Yay, we will have our obligatory church visit today after the previous failures, but to be honest, the Nykyrka (New Church) was a dud.

Nykirken (New Church) in Bergen, Norway

Were I 25 again and on shrooms or even just high on weed, I might have better understood the psychedelic lighting, but today, it just felt gimmicky. It feels that this church from 1622 is being desecrated. Just be done with the god stuff and turn it into a full-fledged nightclub?

Nykirken (New Church) in Bergen, Norway

At least they have a crypt; that’ll be something, I was certain. More nope, a mishmash of rocks, dirt, some relics of unidentified things scattered willy-nilly. I’m unimpressed and ready to wash the disappointment from my expectations…

…and wash is exactly what we got as it started to rain again, pushing us to seek shelter under an arched passageway of the 18th-century customs house, a.k.a. Tollboden. Certain that this was the end and not just a lull, we pushed on.

Nordnes Park in Bergen, Norway

Seriously, more rain? By this time, we were looking for enough of it to masquerade our pants if we needed to wet them due to the urgency we were both suffering while we desperately searched for somewhere to discreetly let it go. Whoa, a public toilet that was open and fully ripe here in Nordnes Park saving us from “dropping trou” to relieve ourselves in front of God, Byfjorden, the trees, and nobody else because who else would be out here in the rain? Well, there was that guy kayaking just offshore.

Totem Pole gift from Seattle to Bergen, Norway in the Nordnes Park

One of Bergen’s sister cities turns out to be Seattle, Washington, who gifted Bergen this totem pole made of Oregon Pine for its 900th anniversary. One should stop and consider that this wood carving has been sitting in public for 53 years since it was presented to Bergen back in 1970, and nothing has been cut off, graffitied, burned, or otherwise intentionally harmed: a certain sign of civility.

Caroline Wise at Nordnes Park in Bergen, Norway

I’m feeling inspired and will consider offering Caroline a totem pole for our 900th anniversary, should we make it that far.

Fiskeridirektoratet in Bergen, Norway

Is this the Fiskeridirektoratet (Directorate of Fisheries)? Because it certainly doesn’t look like government buildings to me. Image search suggests that it is, so I’ll just go with it.

Rainy scene in Bergen, Norway

If I lived in Bergen, I’d certainly be out every rainy day to capture different aspects of a city reflected in standing water. Desert water is typically turbid, not this black mirror stuff, reversing the view of what towers overhead.

Alley in Bergen, Norway

Stenciled onto a wall in a narrow alley was this poem from Alfred Tennyson, written in 1889.

Crossing the Bar

Sunset and evening star,
And one clear call for me!
And may there be no moaning of the bar,
When I put out to sea,

But such a tide as moving seems asleep,
Too full for sound and foam,
When that which drew from out the boundless deep
Turns again home.

Twilight and evening bell,
And after that the dark!
And may there be no sadness of farewell,
When I embark;

For tho’ from out our bourne of Time and Place
The flood may bear me far,
I hope to see my Pilot face-to-face
When I have crost the bar.

Alley in Bergen, Norway

The intrigue of passages that slice through blocks to shorten the route are romantic notions here in Europe, while in New York City, San Francisco, and Los Angeles, they are paths to likely horrors. Here, as it grows later in the day, we begin discussing our Torschlusspanik (door-closing panic – German). Compared to earlier, when I was content to take things casually, we grew ever more aware that our time in Scandinavia was quickly ending. Even in the rain, we are in love with being here and feel like we’ve not yet scratched the surface of what there is to find in this old city.

Stockfish in Bergen, Norway

Stockfish (air-dried cod) was the lifeblood of Bergen for hundreds of years; just as salted cod drove maritime economies, this stuff was gold, while today, it’s nearly as rare as that gold, and at least in the U.S., nobody is going to the local grocery and picking up one of these shriveled fish. By the way, should you ever encounter a stockfish with its head attached and a bump on it, those are King Cod, and if you hang one in your home, it’ll bring you good luck.

Godt Brød in Bergen, Norway

Nothing says last-minute grasping at straws like finding indulgence in food, so how about we try to dry out a bit over our last Kardemummabullar?

Godt Brød in Bergen, Norway

That sounds and looks dandy, but is it Fika without coffee? Let’s throw caution to the wind even if we do have to wake at 4:00 a.m. to make our way to the airport because two Fika on the last day is obviously the right way to help bring closure to a great vacation.

Godt Brød in Bergen, Norway

Such an important part of every day, yet I rarely write about our toilet experiences. Stopping to consider what I just wrote, I realized I’ve written about toilets in the Grand Canyon while white water rafting, the same in Alaska, a disturbing stop on an Autobahn at the Krachgarten, and then there was that crass comment about peeing in Santa Claus, Indiana, I should stop here as I’ve likely written about the subject dozens of times.

Bryggen in Bergen, Norway

We’ve returned to the Bryggen area for Caroline to check on some last-minute gift ideas while I take what will turn out to be one of my favorite photos in Bergen.

Bryggen in Bergen, Norway

Rare is the day I post a second image of something I shared a couple of days earlier, but the different angle and the warm light make it look more appealing than the first image, and I’m not going to go back and remove the other one as it’s already a part of that day’s story.

Bryggen in Bergen, Norway

Gifts were had for two of Caroline’s coworkers. I swear that shopping is some kind of therapy for my wife and a needed activity at the end of a trip for her to gain a sense that every angle of possibility was reached and that the vacation is now complete.

Bien Basar Restaurant in Bergen, Norway

I suppose the same is true for me because we returned to Bien Basar for that one last tartar and my very own Persetorsk with the awesomest mashed peas I’ve ever had. The pressed cod and salty roe with a wedge of grilled cabbage also helped lend closure to me.

Port of Bergen, Norway

Back at the room, I wasn’t done taking photos, nor was I done packing, but by 10:00 p.m., we were done with everything except getting to sleep, which we needed to do quickly because our alarm was set to wake us in six hours.