Second to Last Day in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Gleneden Beach in Lincoln Beach, Oregon

Our last visit to Gleneden Beach for this trip to Oregon was had, so it will be with everything else we do over the next 72 hours before we head for the southern exit. Building a dramatic and desperate finality to better over-romanticize the perfection, rarity, and good fortune we’ve been afforded is just the recipe we indulge with every time we leave a place where we find incredible happiness. By the grace of June and Marvin sharing their home, we’ve been able to set down roots, if only for a few wonderful weeks. Our silliness will have us taunting each other about the ‘last’ this and the ‘last’ that, right up to the point we know we are hopeless idiots, making our departure all the more bittersweet. In most honesty, I don’t know that I can say we’ve ever been happy to leave a place. I mean, we are typically overjoyed by the experience, but I don’t believe we were thrilled to have a bad experience come to an end because we don’t have bad experiences. Maybe getting home is the crash landing with a reality that isn’t the best, but that’s okay, too, as it’s only a regathering point to set things up for the next adventure. However, on this trip, it was 58 degrees (14 Celsius) out on the beach this morning; at the same time, before 8:00, it was already 101 degrees (38 Celsius) in Phoenix, Arizona. I’d like to tell you that sounds exotic; the truth is that it’s blistering.

Caroline Wise on Gleneden Beach in Lincoln Beach, Oregon

Always looking for something special, that little thing that says, pick me up!

Bones on Gleneden Beach in Lincoln Beach, Oregon

A vertebra and a bone we can’t identify; they just have to come home with us because they look so interesting.

Agates and tiny Sand Dollars on Gleneden Beach in Lincoln Beach, Oregon

For years, we’ve wondered about agates and thought we simply couldn’t figure them out from all the stones on the beaches we comb, and then blam, all of a sudden, we start seeing them. The angle of the sun helps a lot by illuminating them, so it’s easier to see which stones are translucent. The sand we’ve placed them together on may be more small gravel than sand, but it is tiny, and we hoped it would work for others to see the scale. Sorry, we didn’t have a banana handy. The best keepsake, though, is the tiny sand dollar; we’ve never seen baby sand dollars.

Gleneden Beach in Lincoln Beach, Oregon

Following our lunch at Sticks, likely for the last time this summer, and enjoying halibut yet again, we made a quick pit stop up the overlook at Boiler Bay, which to local fishermen is known as Government Point. While there, on a spectacular blue sky afternoon, we saw whales, and so did the other dozen or more people who were there too.

Getting back to the house, Caroline needed to attend a conference call, and I cleaned some things. We didn’t specifically make a mess of it, but I’m determined that we’ll leave this house as tidy as can be, should it work in influencing a return visit someday when June and Marvin need to head to France or down to Phoenix to visit family.

With less than 48 hours left in Depoe Bay, but one night in Gold Beach, Oregon, before hitting California, we finally got around to making an old favorite of ours, Slovenian Apricot-Almond Bread, for which we had brought the ingredients with us from Phoenix. This will be the salve for treating the sadness of leaving, so at least we have that.

In my head, I’m inventorying everything that must be done. Some kitchen-related things are already packed into the crate they arrived in as most of our cooking here is finished; breakfast tomorrow will be it. I just plugged in the vacuum battery so it doesn’t die on me as it did the first time I went to vacuum the rugs. We replaced some of the staple things we used while here. Why should June and Marvin supply our paper towels, toilet paper, eggs, and butter? Gotta say that I really fell in love with the Amish Country Roll Butter June left.

Caroline Wise at Local Ocean Restaurant in Newport, Oregon

We’ve gone south to Newport for a 5:30 reservation at Local Ocean Restaurant and were sat with a perfect view of the harbor. The drink is called a Strange Beast Old Fashioned and is made of Suntory Toki Japanese whiskey, pandan-infused Plantation 5-year rum, banana peel + pandan syrup, macadamia nut, and Angostura bitters. Our appetizers were all worthy, but it was the main course that carried us away. We opted for the vegetarian version of a dish that otherwise would have been served with halibut, which is called Lion’s Mane & Peaches. Using grilled lion’s mane mushrooms, grilled peaches, roasted poblano pepper, mozzarella cheese, and a perfect cilantro vinaigrette, we were swooning at how absolutely amazing the dish was. As a matter of fact, we made reservations to have it again tomorrow, but who knows if hiking or some other sightseeing doesn’t get in the way.

Newport, Oregon

Our feast necessitated that we get out and walk, and with a pier open to the boat docks, what could be nicer than walking amongst a bunch of stinking fishing boats?

Newport, Oregon

There was a boat for sale, about the size of the Robin Ann here, probably a little bigger and certainly in worse shape. With much of it made of wood, the old boat that didn’t photograph well would need considerable work. Maybe that’s why it’s only $200,000, plus it appeared to come with a crabbing license, which might have more value than I can imagine.

Newport, Oregon

It was 9:00 before we started our drive out of Newport and back up the coast to Depoe Bay. I’m consumed by the laundry list of things I have to tend to tomorrow before we pack up and start our slow four-day meander on small roads back to Arizona, well, except for one thing I have in mind, and that is we will be getting into the hot tub when we get back to the tiny house we have to leave behind shortly.

Dreams of New Oregon Adventures

Forest near house we are staying at in Depoe Bay, Oregon

If all goes well and we can finagle the vacation days and energy, we’ll be back in Oregon this November. In anticipation of that, I’ve already booked a couple of days at the Carl G. Washburne State Park, where a yurt will await our arrival for Thanksgiving. Should we return, we’ll hopefully be able to stop in and visit June and Marvin and snap a photo of the two so we can share who the gracious couple is who lent us their dream cottage in the woods. This is the small path that cuts over to the next street we’ve been walking back and forth between Highway 101 and their home. If you get the idea that I’m scrambling to capture every detail of our surroundings so we can forever relive these beautiful little moments and things that typically have no relevance, you’d be correct.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

It feels like it was just yesterday that I was posting a photo of moss. Oh yeah, I did, but it wasn’t this kind of moss.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

Jeez, I almost forgot to post dripping needles, an iconic sight, along with drops of moisture on ferns. Now I’ve got to go back and be sure if I’ve shared an image of that.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

Stormy looking ocean, check. This dark green churn is a common sight in the fall during windy, rainy days; it’s part of the allure for Caroline and me as the tempests out here feel moody while also an inviting reason for nesting.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

This crazy idea that we are alive and able to witness such sights with our own eyes is so damned extraordinary. Saying something like this, I can hear the chorus of those who might answer such a statement with, “Yeah, for those who can afford it.” Sorry, but nearly everyone, at least a very solid majority, could easily afford it. If they claim that money is too tight, I dispute that by saying it’s a lie, at least a serious exaggeration. Too many are over-extended with stupid shit, such as too many cars, too much vehicle insurance, too many subscription services for entertainment, too many square feet for their home, and too much eating out. Opportunities to see the fog rolling up cliffsides and over forests are mystical experiences, in the imagination anyway. I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not lamenting how the vast majority of Americans are content to be at home, living in isolation, afraid of what comes after the axe falls. Stay at home, everyone; leave the solitude and the solemnity found in beautiful places to those who truly appreciate this kind of stuff. To the people on the Lower Cascade Head Trail yesterday whose opinions we were forced to listen to about ‘Fucking Starbucks,” “That shitty person,” and “My boss is so stupid,” we don’t care, and nor should you. Stop normalizing your lament and habituating this idea that there’s a catharsis to be found in vocalizing your troubles when you should have done that crap on your way to the trail and then tuned in to what the world was offering you instead of what you could impose on others within earshot.

Ice cream in Newport, Oregon

I should set up an ice cream stand at popular trailheads and offer free scoops in trade for a promise from the visitors to keep their voices down and not talk about current events, jobs, school, or people they don’t like. I wouldn’t get rich, but the others out on a trail in serene places might appreciate my effort, that is, until those who take the ice cream toss their trash into the woods. Speaking of trash, attention, women, please stop leaving your toilet paper just off the trail; take it with you. Carry a plastic bag with you and stuff it in that. The rains will not wash your pee-pee paper away as quickly as you might think. Should you be wondering why I know the TP belongs to women, guys don’t dab piss from the ends of their dicks. They shake it off and let their underwear capture the last drop. Regarding the ice cream, we needed to visit Newport, which is south of us, because yesterday, I had taken off a sizable amount of shin skin and needed a bandage. Having our priorities in order, we stopped for the ice cream first and then fixed the booboo.

Interstate 20 sign to Boston in Newport, Oregon

Turning onto the street that let us enter the parking lot for Walgreens, we saw this sign we’d never noticed before about a road we’d never heard of prior to this moment. U.S. Route 20 runs 3,365 miles (5,415km) from here in Newport, Oregon, all the way to Boston, Massachusets, wow!

Yaquina River south of Toledo, Oregon

It turns out that just recently, when we’d taken the back road along the Siletz River, we came out on U.S. Route 20 next to Toledo, Oregon. This evening, we are driving the scenic Yaquina Bay Road from Toledo back to Newport.

Oregon Oyster Farm in Newport, Oregon

We first saw the oyster midden before reading that we were at the Oregon Oyster Farms, founded in 1907 and the oldest oyster farm in the state. Caroline suggested that maybe we can visit and buy some oysters should we make it back to Oregon this November.

Yaquina Bay in Newport, Oregon

So many times, we’ve been on this coast and only now seem to realize that maybe we’ve been too preoccupied with the ocean side of the state. How have we missed being on this side of Yaquina Bay and not looking at the magnificent Newport Bridge from this perspective?

Yaquina Bay in Newport, Oregon

Not only were we offered new views of the bridge at the end of the day, but we stopped in at Local Ocean restaurant a few minutes before they closed and booked a reservation for tomorrow night.

Trail and Fog in Oregon

Millport Slough in Lincoln City, Oregon

Some days ago, I mentioned passing the glassy reflective waters of the Siletz River flowing into the Millport Slough and how, an hour or two later, that pristine mirror was gone due to the lightest of winds. Well, this is the view I was talking about.

Otis Cafe in Lincoln City, Oregon

We got out early this morning for breakfast at the Otis Cafe before the crowd descended on the place, and, maybe more importantly, our upcoming hike this morning requires us to arrive at the trailhead early because the parking lot fills up quickly with its own crowd. I should point out regarding the Otis Cafe: there is no confusion about indulgence and healthy here; it is certainly the former, while the latter has never been served on these tables. It’s all good home cooking, meaning it’s slathered with everything artery-clogging, but if you can afford the pounds and enjoy your fats and sugars in large amounts, Otis has what you need.

Foxglove off Highway 101 in Otis, Oregon

We’ve just passed over the bridge that crosses the Salmon River, which we’ll be seeing again in a couple of hours, but first, more foxglove.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

We’ve arrived at the Lower Cascade Head Trail with only about four other cars in the large lot. By the end of this hike, we’d return to more than 40 vehicles, five of which were driving in circles, looking for someone else to finish their hike on this popular trail.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

There was some hemming and hawing on my part prior to driving out to Knight Park, where this trail begins, because while I’d read great reviews of the Cascade Head hike, there also were those reviews that spoke to my anxiety about rude and loud people on the path. Getting out here before 9:00 worked out perfectly, letting me relax with the fact we were skipping the Cascade Head Rainforest Trailhead back at the intersection of Three Rocks Road and Highway 101 with room for possibly three cars, though we’ve never seen anyone parked there in all the years we’ve driven by.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Part of my kvetching about the trail was because I wanted more rainforest and knew this one reached grassland nearer to the overlook, but I wasn’t sure about the trail before reaching that area. From these images, I hope you can glean how happy I was to be immersed in such luscious shades of green.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Trees with beards might be the epitome of the Oregon hipster vibe.

Deer on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

This is why Caroline and I walk quietly through the forest: these chance encounters with wildlife that wasn’t frightened away long before our arrival. Instead, like the proverbial deer in the headlights, this black-tailed deer was surprised that we’d snuck up on it, and with a mouthful of yummies, it looked up and froze as though now that it saw us, maybe we’d not be able to see her standing still. I thought I saw a fawn moving on my left, so I turned to look at it, which was the cue for Mom to begin her silent slither out of the area.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

So far, others who passed us have been incredibly polite and seriously quiet, too. Plenty of hikers passed us before we ever reached the lower overlook, as we aimed to be the slowest people on the trail today.

Salmonberries on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

While others race by, we are tasting every salmonberry, looking for other things to nibble, and inspecting and grading the quality of the plants we walk by while listening to the songs of the Swainson’s thrushes, Wilson’s warblers, Pacific wrens, Stellar’s jays, and the squirrels with their pew-pew sound of laser weapons.

Turkey Tail Fungus on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

There’s a serious dearth of mushrooms on this trail, which likely has something to do with the dryness of the climate at this time of year. These turkey tails were the only fungi we saw out here, though I’m thinking there might have been one toppled specimen from the Amanita family.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

We’ve reached the lower Cascade Head overlook. On your left is the Salmon River, running into the Pacific on your right.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Some other hikers told us of some elk on that outcropping. We searched as hard as we could with the binoculars but couldn’t find them.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

We continued a little higher but agreed that we needn’t hike to the upper overlook. God’s Thumb is the thumbs-up-like rock on the adjacent outcropping, and below it, where the ocean and the jutting rocks from the sea are, was where we were tide pooling last Saturday when Caroline had her octopus encounter.

Caroline Wise and John Wise on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

I could easily argue that there are not enough selfies of the two of us being posted here, and maybe that would be true, but one here and there suffices as the cameraman doesn’t like losing precious time to include himself. Is my forehead growing? Do I need to start using a combover?

Prairie Mallow on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

As you can see from behind us, there are a lot of wildflowers out on this mountainside. These are prairie mallows.

Ribwort Plantain on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

This intriguing example of plant life among the various grasses is called ribwort plantain.

Milk Thistle on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

I think everyone already knows the famous prickly milk thistle.

Ladybug on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Who doesn’t smile when they look upon a ladybug?

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Having returned to the woods can only mean that we are on our way back to the beginning of the trail because this is an out-and-back hike.

Salmonberries on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

We’ve been eating a lot of berries, including some dark red ones, which might be a variation of the salmonberry.

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Once in the forest, there are nearly no expansive views, but at one of the bridges on the trail that crosses a deeper canyon, you can see the sky over the canopy.

Crane Fly on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

Not as visually appealing as the cute ladybug, the crane fly appears like it could inflict some serious pain but it turns out to be completely harmless.

Foxglove on the Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

What is not harmless is this foxglove, also known as Digitalis purpurea, which contains cardiac glycoside digitoxin. The operative word there that most people should understand is cardiac, meaning of the heart; while foxglove is beautiful, it can have dire effects should it be eaten, such as death. [Digitalis is also a powerful ingredient in heart medications, so it’s not all doom and gloom – Caroline]

Lower Cascade Head Trail in Otis, Oregon

By this time, we’d had close to a dozen other groups pass us and were able to listen to more than half of the herd long before we saw them. There was so much loud chatter I was able to conduct a simple experiment whereby, counting one-second intervals after first hearing the piercing tone of an overly enthusiastic voice, I was able to calculate the decibel level by measuring the distance between the first screech and their crossing of our path. The loudest person was estimated to have a voice that projected 110 decibels of sound based on the 8-second interval I measured. By this time, the birds were gone, the laser weapons of the squirrels were put away, and there were no deer left, which also likely explains why we didn’t see the elk while we were at the overlook.

Handmade spoon from Oregon Driftware in Lincoln City, Oregon

After our hike, we celebrated with lunch back at the Otis Cafe to try their sandwiches, then visited the Lincoln City Farmers Market that takes place on Sundays until 3:00, during the summer anyway. It’s a rare day that something other than food catches my eye at a market, but the craftwork of Brooks McKee and his Oregon Driftware company, where he makes vases, boxes, bowls, and spoons from driftwood, did get my attention. I ended up leaving with this spoon, a small salt bowl, and the tiniest spoon I’ve ever held.

Lincoln City Cultural Center in Lincoln City, Oregon

The farmers market was being held next to the Lincoln City Cultural Center, which Caroline wanted to visit due to their fiber arts and weaving exhibition space. On the very left, you can see a small corner of a loom that’s not so interesting, especially compared to these giant jellyfish made by Rebecca Hooper, a.k.a. the Gypsea Weaver of recycled/retired fishing gear from the Oregon Coast.

Mural at the Lincoln City Cultural Center in Lincoln City, Oregon

There’s a lot to see at the Cultural Center, with private art spaces and rotating gallery exhibits that are part of the mix. [This Sunday was the last day of an annual artist studio event, “Art on the Edge” with a few artists exhibiting works at the center in addition to other studio and gallery spaces. – Caroline] As far as we know, this place is unique here along the shore. This mural is a good ten feet long.

Foggy afternoon on Nelscott Beach in Lincoln City, Oregon

While we were at the Cultural Center and farmers market, we were watching the fog roll in, but just how thick it was we didn’t fully appreciate until we took a walk down Nelscott Beach in Lincoln City.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

We were intrigued by how heavy the fog was, as we rarely, if ever, see afternoon fog rolling in during the fall and winter. This was right at Depoe Bay in front of the long wall where throngs of tourists line up to see the occasional whale surfacing.

Depoe Bay on a foggy, summer day in Oregon

We are about 350 feet (107 meters) from those traffic lights, that’s the extent of visibility when I took these photos.

Deer in Depoe Bay, Oregon

When we got back to the house, someone from Bass Pro Shops had delivered this perfect deer yard ornament. If only that were true, this guy would be going home with us. We’ll miss Elmer and his gal Francine when we go back to Arizona. [I thought it was Bambi and Faline… Caroline]

A Bunch of Random Stuff on the Oregon Coast

View south from Cape Foulweather in Otter Creek, Oregon

Sometimes, a mystery should remain so. We kept seeing a sign directing us to a historic marker on the side of the road, but only when we were driving north, so we’d often miss the small turnoff when we were wending our way south. This morning, we took our time, determined to stop at this mystery spot. The small road turned out to be an alternative way to Cape Foulweather, but this couldn’t be it; why wouldn’t the sign say such? Well, there’s a fork on that small road, would the historic point must be on it? Nope. Swinging around, we saw the sign again, except this time, we saw that it clearly said Cape Foulweather Historic Point. How’d we miss that so many times in the past weeks? [Because just after the sign for Cape Foulweather there was another sign for “historic point” without the additional info, leading me to believe (incorrectly) that there was a second one – Caroline]

Yaquina Head Lighthouse seen from Moolack Beach overlook in Newport, Oregon

How often have we stopped at the Moolack Beach Overlook gazing south towards Yaquina Head Lighthouse in Newport, Oregon? Countless times is exactly how many. We only have two things in mind today: the first was to get breakfast at Newport Cafe for the Pacific Seafood Scramble, and the second was to visit Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence.

Kouign-amann (Queen Ah-Mon) from How We Roll Bakery at the Newport Farmers Market in Newport, Oregon

Breakfast was already out of the way when Caroline and I simultaneously spotted the Newport Farmers Market in full swing, and with easy parking available, we were there in a second. The first vendor we spoke with was Frances O’Halloran, owner of LoveJoy Botanicals, who sold Caroline a bottle of Strawberry Rhubarb Rose Shrub, and just before we walked away, she clambered for a bag to show us a purchase she’d made that morning, here at the market, over at How We Roll Bakery. She insisted that we JUST HAD TO go buy some Kouign-Amann (pronounced Queen Ah-Mon). This photo shows those pastries, and they are indeed spectacular. Roy and Jenn are the proprietors of this obviously popular market stand, witnessed by the long line. We were told, or was it warned, that we’d love them just as everyone else has and that maybe two wouldn’t be enough and that soon they’d be sold out. Good thing we were just coming from a big breakfast. Otherwise, I think we could have bought four for each of us and made these the first meal of our day. A laminated pastry with butter, sugar, cardamon, and a ‘hint of salt,’ this couple has perfected their technique.

Patina Thai Jewel Beetle Wing Pendant from Amy J. Pattison in Newport, Oregon

Our next purchase was from Amy Jilliane Pattison, who makes these Thai Jewel Beetle Wing pendants; Caroline also snagged a sea glass pendant.

Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

Uncertain if we’d ever stopped at this particular location, Caroline asked me to pull into the Seal Rock State Recreation Site. Without a real plan, that’s where we are, on our way to the overlook.

Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

This mammoth basalt formation, a sea stack called Elephant Rock, appears to have formed between 15-16 million years ago by the Columbia River lava flow. Here are some amazing scientific facts about that event that lasted millions of years. That flow released 105,633 cubic miles (170,000 cubic kilometers) of lava that flowed from eastern Oregon down to the mouth of the Columbia River, where it turned left and traveled more than 100 more miles until reaching this very area right here, Seal Rock, Oregon. To help you visualize just how much lava that was, if it was water covering the entirety of the continental United States, everywhere would be covered with almost 70 feet of water.

Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

I legitimately thought I was done with tide pools; I really don’t have anything left in me to say about tide pools during this visit to coastal Oregon, other than, to my surprise, we arrived at low tide and found more mussels, barnacles, seaweed, small fish, sea stars, and anemones.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

The problem is that I’m compelled to share more photos of it all because, though I’m at a loss of words, we never tire of seeing the intertidal life that lives right next to us humans.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

I have no idea what the greenish-brownish brain-like stuff is, but I believe that the shell and pebble collection belongs to anemones that are camouflaged by this debris.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

My only excuse for another anemone photo is that these aren’t green.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

But the seaweed is green, and the geology is beautiful.

Great Blue Heron at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

This great blue heron represents a conflict of opinion between Caroline and myself. You see when I have too many photos chosen for a post, I’ll bring my wife over to help prune my overzealous enthusiasm to overshare. In this case, our choices didn’t agree, so I’m sharing her pick first, separating two heron photos by the following beautiful reflection of a fossilized giant shark fin.

Tide Pools at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

Just kidding about the fossil, but you can see the resemblance, I’m sure.

Great Blue Heron at Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

And now the same heron, looking north with ruffled feathers after shaking itself following the eating of a fish.

Driftwood State Park in Seal Rock, Oregon

Still in the Seal Rock area, we couldn’t be certain if we’d ever visited the Driftwood State Park before, so we’ll visit it now, possibly not for the first time.

Driftwood State Park in Seal Rock, Oregon

We’ve been smitten by this effect of clouds of steam that are rising out of beach sands. The motion of the moisture floating up is mesmerizing and is better seen on video or, better yet, in person, but this blog is not a vlog, as all this dialogue would move my creations out of TikTok shorts into feature-length films.

Driftwood State Park in Seal Rock, Oregon

How nice it was for someone to erect this cairn so we wouldn’t lose our way off Driftwood Beach.

Vista Point on Highway 101 in Florence, Oregon

For the astute, they might notice I’m looking north, and that’s because I think the views both north and south are tremendous.

Pacific Ocean Vista Point on Highway 101 in Florence, Oregon

This is the view south from the Pacific Ocean Vista Point pullout, the direction in which we are still traveling.

Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

The carnivorous Darlingtonia lays in wait for the next over-rambunctious child to fall into its maw. Do you see those red blood vessels running up the side of it? It’s hungry for an innocent unsuspecting life. Those forked appendages under its monsterish green head act as both a bib and napkin for cleaning up after devouring the next mammal that gets too close.

Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

This is the blooming flower of the Darlingtonia that only does so in May and June, hence why it was so important to make a special trip down this way.

Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

We’ve visited this tiny patch of carnivorous plants previously. They are only found in Northern California and Southern Oregon in bog-like areas.

Berries at Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

Growing in the same area were these berry vines. I’d like to identify the variety, but Oregon is chock-a-block full of berry varietals, so I’m not going to even try. What I can tell you is that while they weren’t fully ripe yet, they were tasty.

Hemitomes congestum a.k.a. the gnome plant at Darlingtonia State Natural Site in Florence, Oregon

A woman also visiting the Darlingtonias and hanging out for a good long time while others came and went was sharing travel notes with us and asked if we’d seen these things nearby. We’d not, so she showed us where they were, and it turned out that they were a rare find. Their formal name is Hemitomes congestum, with a common name of the gnome plant. In the family of Hemitomes, it is the only member of that branch. Little is known about the gnome plant, and it’s only speculated that its lack of chlorophyll is due to a parasitic relationship with a fungus from which it gathers its nutrients.

Seal Rock State Recreation Site in Seal Rock, Oregon

The last photo of the day is from Seal Rock Beach, as seen from an overlook.  Out there in the sea on the left by the rocks surrounded by water, that’s where we were exploring tide pools and saw the Great Blue Heron. A late lunch/early dinner once again at Ona Restaurant in Yachats and a cold brew in Newport from Dutch Bros were the final activities of another busy Saturday.

Not Doing Much on the Oregon Coast

Seagull at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Maybe my bird brain was telling me that if I didn’t take many photos, I’d knock out Friday’s post lickety-split and not fall behind, but here I am on Monday, searching my noggin for any details of what we were doing just three days ago, and if it weren’t for these images refreshing my memory of our physical locations, I don’t think I’d have anything to go by. There were no notes, no whales, no trails discovered for the first time; it was a day on the coast with walks along the sea in order to collect steps and not only spend time next to the woods in the cozy house in which we’ve been luxuriating.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

Since Caroline found out the path in front of the local timeshare property [otherwise a behemoth eyesore – Caroline] is open to the public, and it takes us past the rookery of murres, cormorants, and gulls on a small island just off the shore, we’ve been enjoying the commotion, nest building (a few sea gull chicks have already hatched), and the crashing waves hitting the rocky shore. This was it from our morning at the shore.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

When afternoon rolled around, we showed up at Boiler Bay with my zoom lens. As we’ve had so many sightings of whales, we figured there was a good chance we’d see more today. That didn’t work out: not a whale in sight.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Having the 70-200mm lens did give me the opportunity to practice using it after an extended break from shooting with it. Am I out of practice, or am I fooling myself into believing I can use such a heavy lens without a tripod? Most of the images I took are of poor quality with far too much blur. I probably took 50 photos of cormorants nesting in shadows on a steep cliffside; not one of them was worth sharing. When the wind wasn’t blowing, plants made for good subjects.

Cormorant at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

We’ve been watching the cormorants, presumably the males, leaving their mates on cliffside perches to fetch food and nesting materials. When these birds take off after a diving session, it takes a moment for them to shed enough water from their wings to get well above the surface, and until then, their little feet seem to run above the surface as their wings continue to splash along with each flap until after about six to eight beats, they are again on their way to gaining altitude.

Seal at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

From our position on shore, the seals laying in the sun seemingly always have their butts facing us, while in the water, they often are taking glances at us shore things.

Murres at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

At full zoom, my photos do not show a fraction of how amazing these murres appear. Through our binoculars, that’s another story. The flight of these penguin-looking birds is curious as they beat their wings furiously, not anywhere as fast as hummingbirds, but comically in some way, and they fly quickly. When the cormorants return to nests, they carry food in their beaks, while the murres utilize a gular pouch which is located between their beaks and their chests and allows them to carry the food instead of their stomach, which is another method used by some birds for feeding their young.

Sunset over Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

So, this has been our version of not doing much, yet it felt like a full and complete day stuffed with wonderful experiences and sights that should leave anybody happy for weeks into their future.

Cold, Fog, Rain, and Sun – Oregon Style

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

It’s cold out this morning here at Government Point, though no colder than other days, but there’s a steady breeze and a mist that is ever present on this 100% humid morning. There are three boats offshore out whale watching, and they were successful. We know this because we, too, were watching whales spout. It’s 9:00, and as I write this, it’s 55 degrees (13 Celsius) and raining here in Depoe Bay, Oregon, while at home in Phoenix, it just hit 100 degrees (38 Celsius). Caroline has taken up her place out on the veranda where it’s 59 degrees (15 Celsius) wearing her fleece, my fleece, and for a while, was wrapped in a warm towel.

Foggy Highway 101 near Otter Rock, Oregon

As for me, I got in the car for a 40-minute drive south to Waldport. I was supposed to go last Thursday, but we’d been so immersed in exploring tide pools and collecting an abundance of photos that I knew I’d fall behind here on the blog if I didn’t get busy, which seemed more important than the tip we’d received about a local Waldport business. Back on that previous weekend, we’d stopped at the Tidewater Creations yarn store there in Waldport and were waxing on about our happiness at having visited Bread & Roses in Yachats when the owners told us that we should try nearby Pacific Sourdough Bakery, but we’d have to wait until the following Thursday as they are only open three days a week, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday and only from 10:00 to 3:00, and to arrive early because there’s always a line; always. We might have been incredulous, but their other tip, that JillyBeanz Ice Cream Shop sold an amazing tiramisu, turned out to be true, so we thought we should at least give this bakery a try. So, since today is Thursday and I’ve nothing better to do, here I am, heading down the foggy highway.

Pacific Sourdough in Waldport, Oregon

It was 10:03 when I turned the corner to this sight. I knew that this had to be the Pacific Sourdough Bakery. Being Oregon, the majority of people just stood there in the rain, though I’m surprised that no one was in shorts and t-shirts. I had to park down the street and put on my raincoat because, according to my wife, I’m made of sugar and would dissolve if I stood out there like the natives. Then I almost forgot my camera, so only a couple of steps from the car, I went back for it and hoofed back up the street, trying to get in line before the next half dozen joined the queue. There are 32 people there in line outside. Inside, there were somewhere between 10 and 15 others.

Pacific Sourdough in Waldport, Oregon

Almost 40 minutes later, it’s my turn in the bakery, and it’s a good thing there is a line inside, too, because there are so many choices for the first-time visitor. One needs a good 10 minutes to peruse the offerings before accepting the futility of the situation, which suggests it might be better just to order one of everything.

Pacific Sourdough in Waldport, Oregon

I took photos of the items with rhubarb in situ, knowing these would be the things that Caroline would likely cherish the most. In the world of baked goods, rye, whole wheat, sourdough, and rhubarb, in that order, are the things she likes most.

Pacific Sourdough in Waldport, Oregon

This French sourdough with wholewheat and rye was the first loaf we cut into. It’s unbelievable that a small town of just over 2,000 inhabitants should have a bakery that does better work than most all the bakeries in the greater metropolitan area of Phoenix, Arizona, with its over 4 million inhabitants; it is really a head-scratcher. Of the bakeries in Phoenix that are possibly comparable, their prices are twice what they are here, even though costs are similar regarding wages and facilities.

Depoe Bay, Oregon

I took a similar photo on our first day in Depoe Bay after we arrived on June 10th. Every day, we drive up [or down? Caroline] this road on our way somewhere else, and there’s an enchantment that arrives with this first glimpse of the ocean, almost a surprise that it is so near.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Once again, we are walking the trail that traces along the coast between the coastal area in front of the harbor over to Boiler Bay. With almost two hours before the sun finally dips below the distant horizon, it will hang low and reflect brightly off the ocean, necessitating a hand to block the blinding column of light that makes whale watching difficult when they are close to that point in the ocean. The drama created by our star shimmering on the surface of the sea works to make the scene all the more alluring, as it demands our eyes to glance at its ferocity.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

What you really couldn’t see in the wide-angle shot above this one were the seagulls taking late-day baths in the shallow pool. More than their bathing, it was the ripples emanating from their dips and wiggles that especially drew our attention. Now, we can study these beautiful patterns forever.

Caroline Wise at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

For the vast majority of the previous more than 30 years, every time one of us is looking at the Pacific Ocean, it is in the company of each other. There are moments that I’m not sure which I enjoy more, gazing out on its infinity or standing in awe of what is on the face of Caroline as she stares at the sea. Many women have the smile and intensity in their eyes when they are looking at a baby that I see from my wife as gazes intently upon any and all aspects of what the ocean is offering her. Under all circumstances, she’s obviously beguiled by the biggest to the tiniest of details. She loves the air, the clouds, the sounds of the surf and birds, inspecting the plants, turning over and collecting feathers, shells, rocks, and the abundance of trash that is scattered about. I sense that she feels some kind of kinship, a draw, a romantic notion that travels across time and the currents the ocean stirs.

Coastal manroot a.k.a. western wild cucumber in Depoe Bay, Oregon

The distance between summer and fall is a single transitional stage brought on by shortening days, but the visual delta between the two is a chasm where life seen between them couldn’t be more varied. We are seeing so much this June that we never see in November unless it’s the withering remains of plants and colors that are going to sleep for winter in order to come back strong the following spring. This here porcupine organic grenade is called a manroot, a.k.a. western wild cucumber, it is not edible and is wicked bitter, seriously not good eating.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Also, seriously not good eating is the seagull. Its ugly diet of everything and anything it can stuff into its gullet and fierce scavenging and busy flying schedule means the meat is tough and unsavory. These birds are so ubiquitous I just had to investigate their palatability.

Whale spout at Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

Twenty years ago, Caroline bought a t-shirt from Sanctuary Whale Watching Cruises that says, “Whales are for Lookin’ Not for Cookin.’” We had the opportunity to try whale meat last year in Norway and ultimately decided against it.  Maybe we are being hypocrites by eating some animals while putting greater value on others, but that’s a prerogative and respect for these mammals that can hold their breath on average for 80 minutes, dive as deep as 9,816 feet (2,992 meters), and have hearts that can pump up to 58 gallons of blood per beat (219 liters) while slowing from 20-30 beats per minute at the surface to as slow as 4 to 8 beats per minute while diving. They seem so highly evolved in respects I don’t believe we fathom yet, and to be witness to others seeing them for the first time, even at a good distance while on shore, it seems like they inspire things in people that transcend all of their other concerns, even if only for a few minutes.

Boiler Bay in Depoe Bay, Oregon

This brings to an end our 17th day in Depoe Bay, Oregon, leaving a solid week before the road takes us south and we start our trek back to Arizona. Surprise, that Thursday (July 4th) and Friday, we’ll remain along the coasts of Oregon and California before cutting across California, avoiding Sacramento and Lake Tahoe on our way back into the desert of Nevada and skirting Las Vegas once more.