Western Nevada

Mom's Diner in Pahrump, Nevada

We’ve arrived at the congregation of the elderly found in Mom’s Diner in Pahrump, Nevada. With about a dozen of us in here by the time we were ready to leave, our collective age is approaching a four-digit number I’d need a calculator to figure out. Off the main drag, this is obviously a locals’ place, easily evidenced by literally everyone who’s walked in showing their familiarity with everyone else. If it was Sunday, I might think we were in church; this being rural Nevada, it just might be a form of church anyway. Our no-nonsense breakfast was everything one might hope for from a place surviving the constant onslaught of the big chains encroaching on these still independent joints that grow rarer every year. At what point must we capitulate and join the herd at the drive-thru window collecting a coffee and a breakfast sandwich instead of finding these bastions where the hits of the 70s arrive with the half-surly attitudes of servers working the crowd armed with pots of coffee keeping our mugs topped off? With more than 500 miles through the empty western edge of this state ahead of us, we are now ready to take on the day.

Pahrump, Nevada

Layers have never failed to attract us with their stories which are not easily understood beyond the basic idea that sedimentary collections of the earth have formed due to erosion or accumulation of marine layers, and then the tectonics of plate movement move things around, producing folds and tilting to remind you that, as measured in earth time, the force of our planet is something to be amazed by. I should point out we are near the far eastern edge of Death Valley National Park, a place of great colorful layering. If time allowed, we’d be detouring through it, but we are on a fairly tight schedule with a couple of destinations we must reach, one today in Susanville, California, and another farther northwest we’ll be driving to tomorrow (Sunday).

On the NV-60 Highway in Nye County, Nevada

In yesterday’s post, I wrote of needing to remain current each day with the sharing of photos and my thoughts. I should have considered taking familiar freeways which would have limited our opportunities to stop and gawk at beautiful stuff, but by avoiding the beaten paths, half of our route today will traverse areas that are new to us and will require many stops to admire the beauty of it all. To that end, I prepped 25 of the more than 200 photos I shot today, and now my job is to try writing something or other for each image included in this post. The trick will be that at the time I’m typing this it is already Sunday morning, one day after I took these photos, and we will soon be heading out of our motel for breakfast and then we’ll embark on another nearly 500-mile drive while stopping just as frequently to take even more photos.

Highway 95 in Western Nevada

Before leaving Arizona, I’d seen that the media was flush with stories about the HEAT DOME terrorizing the western U.S. Well, sure enough, it’s hot out here in the desert, but not so hot that everything is burned to a crisp, which was what we were expecting. The lush, deep green of springtime in the arid landscape would enchant us for the majority of the day, capturing just how spectacular it all looked would prove somewhat elusive, but it wasn’t for lack of trying.

Beatty, Nevada

Pulling into Donkeyville, USA, a.k.a. Beatty, Nevada, we were surprised by a new casino under construction that is taking shape in the form of a steampunk-themed place. As for the herd of donkeys we’d seen here on our last visit, no sign of them this morning, but the steampunk tuna, along with the insects and other stuff on the iron-clad façade, are definitely a draw requiring a stop.

Goldfield, Nevada

Sometimes, when we are out in the Western United States, we can never really be sure if we are traveling a road we’ve been on before and simply forgot to note it on our map of the U.S., but here in Goldfield, Nevada, once the state’s largest town, we are now certain we’ve never been to this outpost taking on the appearance of becoming a ghost town. There is so much more to see here, but only so much space on the blog and only so much I can write to capture our day.

Crescent Dunes Solar Energy Project in Tonopah, Arizona

We’ve seen one of these sunsticks before, over in California on a previous trip. This is the Crescent Dunes Solar Energy Project in Tonopah, Nevada, which uses mirrors below the tower to concentrate the light of the sun on the tower where, typically, a Sterling Engine works to generate electricity.

Highway 95 in Western Nevada

It never fails that while out on a road trip, we are reminded of the reasons we love being out here in the sparsely populated Western U.S., it is the stark, wide-open spaces where time has been slowed down regarding human change played upon the landscape. But I’m jumping the gun because farther north, we’ll learn about the carnage our policies have had on Native American populations that once flourished in the area until land use and the abuse of water rights have worked to destroy livelihoods, traditions, and the environment.

Caroline Wise in Coaldale Junction, Nevada

Back in the golden age of road travel, along the routes that sliced across America, travelers would find garages to repair their cars, diners serving up grilled porterhouse steaks and potatoes, next to gift shops inspiring kids to beg their parents to collect souvenirs which would paint their childhoods with memories of distant places in exotic landscapes. Caroline and I have heard so many times that we could never keep count of those who cannot believe that we are driving so far away when flying is so convenient in their eyes.

Motel in Mina, Nevada

In Mina, Nevada, we passed a now-defunct brothel south of town; it was called the Wild Cat. Passing through, not much remains of Mina, including this closed motel, but there was a great little Mexican joint selling Mexican/American food and ice cream. It’s obviously popular with passing truckers based on the three big rigs across the street.

Ordinance Museum in Hawthorne, Nevada

What a weird landscape there is to be found in Hawthorne, Nevada. On the north side of this immaculately clean town, we learned why things are the way they are; this is the home of the World’s Largest Ordinance Depot. With that knowledge and seeing how empty Hawthorne was of people and how many shuttered businesses there were, we decided to make a U-turn to visit the Hawthorne Ordinance Museum before the draw-down of the facility turns Hawthorne into another dusty, crumbling bunch of ruins next to the road. Wouldn’t you know it? Four crusty veterans were working at the museum, trying hard to get us to leave with some souvenirs.

Ordinance Depot in Hawthorne, Nevada

Unexploded munitions might be present. Somehow, that’s enticing; who doesn’t want to see something go boom?

Big Horn Sheep in Hawthorne, Nevada

How often do we see signs telling us of wildlife and neither hide nor hair can be found? But for once that roadside message a mile ago telling us to be aware of big horn sheep was telling the truth.

Walker Lake in Hawthorne, Nevada

This is a dead zone known as Walker Lake. It is dead because the volume of the lake being drawn down due to incoming water flows being diverted for agriculture, has had the effect of turning the lake toxic to aquatic life. The cutthroat trout that once called this home is long gone, and the Paiute Indians who relied on them can instead visit the McDonalds just down the road in Hawthorne, so at least there’s that.

Pyramid Lake Museum and Visitors Center in Nixon, Nevada

Reason #3472 to hate Google: their stupid service told us that the Pyramid Lake Museum and Visitors Center in Nixon, Nevada, was closed today. The building was so intriguing that we drove up to find a place to grab a photo even if we couldn’t go in, and it turned out that the place was open. It’s a small place once inside, but we did learn that during Burning Man in the nearby Black Rock Desert, they get incredibly busy, maybe too busy.

Lizard in Nixon, Nevada

Out of the museum, looking for the best angle to take my photo of the museum, I came across the most chill lizard I’ve ever had the chance to encounter. I took over a dozen images as I inched closer and closer to this guy/gal. Not only that, Caroline also got down to eye level just a few inches away from mini-Godzilla to take a dozen photos for herself. I can only imagine that the lizard sensed our good karma.

Pelicans on Pyramid Lake in Sutcliffe, Nevada

At Pyramid Lake on the Pyramid Lake Paiute Tribal lands, we learned that the lake and an island in the lake play host to breeding pelicans. While I tried to grab a halfway decent photo using my 200mm lens, it was a struggle to get anything better than this, and this is already seriously cropped in.

Pyramid Lake in Sutcliffe, Nevada

This is one of the namesake rock formations. Actually, it’s tufa that is formed from calcium leaching into the lake which combined with carbonate dissolved in the water to form the mounds. Even away from the shoreline on other side of the road we were driving on, there were tufas that formed well outside of the lake. This is because Pyramid Lake was once part of a much larger and deeper body of water called Lake Lahontan. That lake disappeared about 9,000 years ago.

Pyramid Lake in Sutcliffe, Nevada

It just so happens that the book that Caroline is reading to us right now is The Dawn of Everything: A New History of Humanity by David Graeber and David Wengrow. A section in one of the early chapters we read yesterday referred to Louis-Armand de Lom d’Arce, Baron de Lahontan, a French soldier and explorer in 17th-century North America who in the years before his death in 1716 had published books about Native Americans and their ideas of freedom and equality to educate the “Western World” (read: Europe). Today, we were learning about the historical lake system that Pyramid Lake was once part of, and, yep, Lake Lahontan was named after that baron guy. By the way, at this point this photo is taken from a dirt road as the paved road had already stopped.

Surprise Valley Road in Pyramid, Nevada

Slowly, we crept over the gravel road with a minor amount of washboard and again, here we were astonished that we are the lucky ones out seeing the sights seldom seen.

Surprise Valley Road in Sand Pass, Nevada

One minute we were pulled over to the side of the road taking a photo to establish where we were on the map thinking we were alone as nobody passed us in the previous half-hour…

Denise Liscom and Caroline Wise in Sand Pass, Nevada

…when I thought I heard a motor, but there was no one on the roads at the intersection we’d turned on. From out of the brush and over a small hill, a woman wearing her pistol, listening to Cotton-eyed Joe from the Rednex gives us a wave before we were about to jump back into the car. Denise Liscom was the friendly person out rockhounding and just roaming the wide-open landscape ready to handout hugs, share information about a nearby hot spring, and ultimately invite us to her home on a future visit. But wait, there’s more! Sean Liscom, her husband is home and as he and I both enjoy writing, she asked that we stop by and say hi and talk about our chance meeting out in the middle of serious nowhere, because seriously, these two live really away from it all. It turns out that Sean writes post-apocalyptic fiction and is a prepper and while I don’t think his writing fits into our eggheaded non-fiction books and occasional bouts of classic flowery novels that we are more accustomed to reading, he is ranked #14 in Disaster Fiction on Amazon and has thousands upon thousands of reviews, not an easy feat. It’s funny how you never know who you might meet on the backroads of America, but we couldn’t have asked to encounter friendlier people.

Wild horses on High Rock Road in Sand Pass, Nevada

And then there was this standoffish small gang of horses who appeared to be contemplating committing hoof-mayhem on our personhoods should we get too cheeky and want to approach them.

Wendel, California

While it is not sunset yet, we passed from Nevada into California at the end of the dirt road and rode into the rest of the day and Susanville where we had a room booked, otherwise, I’m pretty certain that Denise would have corralled us into staying out their way.

Jump Start

Approaching Hoover Dam in Northwest Arizona at sunset.

It is not Friday when I write this post detailing our Friday departure. I am writing it roughly 48 hours before we depart from Caroline’s office, signaling our leaving Arizona for a drive into Nevada on our way to Oregon. Avoiding major highways means we’ll require almost 24 hours of driving time, which only adds a couple of hours to what would have been needed if we chose to drive up the monotonous Interstate 5 through the middle of California. Instead, our route will bring us to Pahrump, Nevada, about an hour outside of Las Vegas tonight, and if we could give Sin City a wider berth, we’d opt for that, but in this sparsely populated Western United States, they didn’t build roads for old curmudgeons to bypass the places they find abhorrent, maybe even aberrant.

What, you don’t like Vegas, you ask? Nope. Everything about that city feels antiquated, simulated, and lacking in anything that has authenticity. When I required human-made spectacles to inspire me, and I reveled in our extravagance to create the absurd, I too indulged for the sake of my amazement, but I reached a point where I could no longer understand this peculiarity to work so hard against nature to splurge on senses trained to desire more of more. More food, more light, more water, more opportunities to part with money, dignity, and brain cells. This stationary cruise ship in the desert caters to the overly indulgent who desire to feast on excess, and well, that just reminds me of a much younger version of my stupid self who believed at that time that satisfying every whim was some kind of key to enlightenment and unshackling myself from conformity. I was an idiot and likely am still mostly an idiot, but reminders of that are unwelcome, so I steer clear of this outpost in the middle of nowhere.

Sitting here at Starbucks this Wednesday afternoon, wondering what else I can write that will not give away details about Saturday and Sunday when I’m expecting to spend some of our travel time capturing images of our route, I’m mostly looking around at the various people coming and going while my earbuds are in, and I’m listening to the piano of Hania Rani, Jóhann Jóhannsson, and Ólafur Arnalds. I’m trying to avoid just packing up and leaving as I really don’t have anything pressing I need to tend to. Tomorrow, though, is another story, as I’ll be finishing up cleaning, packing, and considering what details were missed, which don’t really matter as I’ll still have Friday until late afternoon to correct anything that requires my attention. After more than 1,480 days of these kinds of travels, you’d think we have it all figured out, and basically, we do.

One other thing to share here, and that’s the reason I’m trying to get this headstart on the writing: we’ll be gone for 30 days, but after we get home, we leave 72 hours later for a visit to the International Folk Art Market (IFAM) in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Two and a half weeks after that, we’ll be back out in Duncan, Arizona, and finally, three weeks after that, a quite long trip starts again. What I’m getting at, there will be no time to catch up on writing between these excursions, meaning I’ll be doing my best to remain current documenting our travels while not neglecting that major writing project that must also share my attention. Looking through this filter, I can only wonder if I’m biting off more than I can chew, as 71 days of travel over the next 113 days will likely demand I write about 100,000 words or more to detail our adventures. Heck, that doesn’t even include the more than 20,000 photos I’ll likely take while we explore those corners of the world. Honestly, the crazy demands sound exciting to me, and I look forward to the challenge.

Going Places

Dall-E generated image

The wheels are in motion. The planning is finished. Arrangements and reservations are in the proverbial bag and soon, we’ll be on the road. In my previous post, I mentioned a late summer vacation, but what I didn’t share is that we are about to embark on a hybrid getaway that initially didn’t require much planning at all. While our Eastern U.S. and Canadian adventures had me toiling over maps, lodgings, things to do, places to go, where to eat, ferry schedules, flights, and the absolute best way to spend our time while underway, this upcoming journey that starts in just a couple of days, leads us into the very familiar Pacific Northwest of the Oregon Coast.

Back in April, Caroline and I were discussing how in winter of 2022 we sacrificed a work-remote opportunity because her company required her to remain present for an important project. Well, here in the spring of 2024, we thought a window was opening that might allow us to capture that almost forgotten wish. I didn’t like the exorbitant prices I was finding for summer at Airbnb and VRBO and was about to put this idea on pause until winter when the rates are a lot cheaper until I thought about reaching out to someone we know who lives on the central coast of Oregon. Being a local up there, maybe this person would know something that I was missing. It turned out that she and her husband were heading to France for a month in June, and that we could have their place. While we would have to delay our plan for a bit more than a month, this would also save us from some of the hot days of the Phoenix summer (starting tomorrow, we are supposed to have our first temperature of over 110 degrees, actually 112 degrees or 44 Celsius).

Our visits to the Oregon Coast began in March 2002 on a crazy five-day trip that took us through Nevada into Idaho before joining the Columbia River between Oregon and Washington for a drive out to the coast. From Astoria, Oregon, we enjoyed a brief but incredibly scenic road trip along the Pacific Ocean before hitting the Redwoods of California and returning to Arizona. That was enough to cement a love affair with the state of Oregon; so much so that in the summer of 2002, we explored Crater Lake National Park and then, around Thanksgiving in November, we visited Bend and Mount Hood on our way to Washington. Since that time, we’ve returned to Oregon nearly 20 more times. What I’m trying to get to is what I shared above: this trip didn’t require much planning as with our month of lodging fixed, we pretty much know how and where we can spend our time.

The thing is, I wasn’t ready to return to intensive writing quite yet, and in my effort to occupy myself, I started considering other things, specifically where we might go hiking and what we would do about a meal plan while we were up there. Using AllTrails, I identified nearly 70 potential hikes and walks within a three-hour drive south or a two-hour drive north. As for our meal plan, Caroline had brought up our last visit to Oregon a couple of years ago during which we stopped at a new grocery in Lincoln City called El Torito Meat Market. We’d shared a spatchcocked grilled chicken on Thanksgiving Day thanks to this amazing Mexican grocery store. Feeling inspired, I started considering what ingredients I might be able to buy there and how I could have those things influence our meals while on the coast.

I came up with 14 recipes of dishes I’ve never prepared before including Cochinita Pibil, Pepian de Pollo, Machaca, Pollo en Jocón, and Rajas con Crema. We’ll be buying and cooking with things such as chorizo, cecina, chuleton, nopales, epazote, cotija cheese, cream Oaxaquena, jicama, poblano and guajillo chilies, chayote, jalapenos, banana leaves, and tomatillos among a bunch of other things.

So, while this month away will be a remote-working situation, our days will start with a two-hour walk along the sea or in the forest just offshore before I make us a Mexican-influenced breakfast. Part of Caroline’s lunch hour break will be spent with at least another mile-long walk on a nearby beach and after her work day, we’ll drive out along the coast to take in the sun setting over the ocean, flying a kite, bird watching, or hiking up to an overlook to change our perspective of a place we’ve likely seen dozens of times before. To us, this doesn’t sound like work is involved at all, it’s more like a luxury vacation with some minor responsibilities.

Memorial Day 2024

Caroline Wise in Duncan, Arizona

Talk about laziness, and you’ll see that some of my blog posts this year are a perfect reflection of that. Not that I’m lazy per se (though that is open for interpretation), but the fact that I am consolidating some of my posts, particularly visits out to Duncan, Arizona, could be perceived as me being a bit unmotivated in the writing department. The reason for this on my previous outings to Duncan was that my focus was not on traveling and photography but precisely on this act of writing. Our drive east for this year’s long Memorial Day weekend was to spend time not only with Caroline but also to capture something rare, time of doing close to nothing. That nothing included making a minimal effort in the photography department and subsequently in bringing this post together.

Duncan, Arizona

“Nothing”, though, is not in my DNA, and so something must be done.  When I started writing this post here on Sunday morning, I was apparently not doing “nothing”. Even this moment of jotting down thoughts followed a three-mile walk out along the Gila River and over some old, abandoned farmland in the floodplain.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Back on Friday when we arrived, our hosts were nowhere to be found. They were in neighboring New Mexico visiting family, comfortable knowing that we are self-sufficient and would be fine by our lonesome in their place. In the garden at dusk, the enchantment of dozens of bats swooping in to nab insects was a welcome surprise with one approaching close enough for us to catch the sound of its vocalization as opposed to its ultrasonic echolocation that obviously wouldn’t be heard by human ears. On the other hand, later that evening our eyes were able to take in the dark sky, enjoying the stars that bats do not regard as the light is too faint to help guide their navigation. Mind you, I make no claim of being an expert on bats and am relying on Claude Opus and Mistral Large for my information, and please, do not conflate that my use of AI for research could imply that it helps with my writing; I take full credit for that.

Great Blue Heron in Duncan, Arizona

Saturday rolled around with a morning walk along the northeast side of the Gila River, where our interest was drawn in by the many songs heard from the birds that call the riparian area home. The first bird we spotted was one I’d seen on my previous visit and had no idea what it was, but Caroline has Cornell University’s app Merlin installed which allows her to easily identify birds. It was a vermillion flycatcher. High up in a tree, she saw a great blue heron, and when she pointed it out, I thought she was pointing to the nearby common black hawk in a neighboring tree before I, too, caught sight of the heron.

Turning on the audio capture part of the Merlin app, she showed me that we were listening to the calls of yellow warblers, Gila woodpeckers, northern cardinals, yellow-breasted chats, and the ever-present Gambel quails. By the next day, Sunday, I too now had Merlin installed, and on the southwest side of the Gila River, we added willow flycatchers, white-winged doves, song sparrows, and common yellowthroats to the list of birds heard but not always seen.

Methodist Church in Duncan, Arizona

After Saturday’s walk and following breakfast at the always adequate Ranch House Restaurant, while walking back to our artful lodgings at the Simpson Hotel, we met Minister Sherry Brady of the Duncan United Methodist Church who was holding a yard sale in front of the church she presides over. With a small congregation of about ten old souls, she’s optimistic that with some care, cleanup, and renovation work, she can grow the flock. We were invited into the old church, a simple and unadorned place of worship. From the yard sale, I picked up an old coffee cup with the nickname “Topper” on one side of the cup while on the other side, Floyd Johnson was penciled in before the cup was glazed.

On Sunday, I went back to the church before services got underway and was able to talk with parishioner Marilyn Thorne, who knew Floyd and was able to make out his indecipherable last name for me. Floyd worked at the Duncan High School as a janitor and occasional bus driver and had served the U.S. military in Korea. So, in honor of Memorial Day, though Floyd didn’t die there, and this should really be a Veterans Day gesture, I’m taking this moment to recognize this local resident of the area; he actually lived in the small community just east of Duncan called Franklin.

Caroline Wise at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Back to the early-summer, lush gardens of the Simpson Hotel, Caroline fastened her backstrap loom to a rock wall in front of a bench where she sat for the next hours watching the trees sway in the heavy wind, which she thought were reminiscent of the trees in the Miyazaki animated film, My Neighbor Totoro and busied herself weaving and listening to the birds. From time to time, Iskander the tabby cat would come to visit Caroline for head rubs. Meanwhile, I took to working out some details regarding a cross-country road trip taking place in August and September while simultaneously trying to convince myself it was still part of my agenda of nothingness.

Blue death-feigning beetle in Duncan, Arizona

On Saturday, when mid-day arrived our hosts arrived too, not that this motivated us to shift our positions of slothfulness, we just continued on our trajectory of participation-inertia as we aimed to maintain nullity. Things stayed this way until the blood pooling in our rear ends began coagulating, a common measure old people use to judge the effectiveness of their laziness. This could only mean one of two things: head into the kitchen for some ice cream or go for a walk. Seeing how we were not at home, not that we have ice cream there either, we took a walk to the River’s Roadside Cafe and Bakery for coffee. I know, you likely thought I was going to say we went for ice cream, but we were already past that. We’d stopped in for a lunch of burritos earlier, and Caroline had dessert in the form of a scoop of triple chocolate and one of strawberry to help celebrate the Memorial Day Weekend, so who in their right mind would have even more ice cream just a few hours later?

Note: the photo above is of the blue death-feigning beetle, its taxonomic name is Asbolus verrucosus.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Other mundane stuff happened along the way, though dinner with Deborah and Clayton that would never be considered mundane also happened and closed out the day. Then, here on Sunday morning the wake, walk, eat, write, eat routine got underway once more. This brings me to this point where I’m about to take a break from writing so we can mosey up the street to the Ranch House Restaurant for a mid-day meal unless, like yesterday, something from the River’s Roadside joint piques our interest. Come to think about it, they are closed.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

For the sense of time, it is the morning of Memorial Day Monday as I reopen what at the moment will have been a draft, though as you read this, it’s obviously a post of some sort. Last night was an evening out of the ordinary: while likely quite mundane to most people, I still feel compelled to share this, not necessarily with readers, but with future Caroline and John. We had dinner with Deborah and Clayton again, except this time we watched a movie. The movie was The Wonder Boys about a man lost in writing and indecisive, in part due to the need to pen something better than his first successful novel and in part due to his weed habit that’s made him compulsive and indulgent. While it was congruent with my effort to do nothing, watching a movie while eating and doing so to the very end of the film while out and away felt peculiar. I should add that this is not something we do at home, so it’s outside of all forms of my normal unless I refer back to my thirties, three decades ago.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Before the evening’s festivities, there was the late afternoon garden indulgence that included a slow walk, a meander actually, that had me searching for details of things overlooked. It’s bound to happen when we move through an environment and are uncertain of the amount of time we can allocate to finding what is present, that we first see the big picture, and subsequently, should lingerability be available, we’ll look into the granularity of what was initially unseen. The surprise comes during follow-up visits when you are left wondering how you missed so much in the first and second encounters. Imagine my chagrin that on my umpteenth visit to the Simpson Hotel and Garden, I’m still finding new enchantments hidden among the many layers that exist here.

Train in Duncan, Arizona

This brings us back to Monday and this mid-morning session of capturing thoughts in the parlor as the aromas of breakfast waft through the hotel and I’m refueled as far as caffeine is concerned. At 6:00, we were out the front door for a three-mile walk that was well-timed with the passing of the twice-daily train that travels through Duncan on its way to and from the Morenci Copper Mine north of here. Up a nearby hill for a walk over town looking into the distance on a slightly chilly start to the day was a great reminder to appreciate these cooler moments that down in Phoenix are already over.

Caroline Wise at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

To close out this post/update: between these two visits to Duncan, I was working out some travel details regarding a late summer vacation that will take us to points in the Eastern United States and the Atlantic Provinces of Canada. Actually, not just some details but rather intricate plans that come with being able to invest nearly 60 hours investigating options that will guide our first-ever visits to Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick. For Caroline, the vacation will begin when she lands in Buffalo, New York, where I’ll pick her up with our car, and it will come to a close in Portland, Maine, from where she’ll be flying home. As for what our exact plan looks like between those dates and my road trip that bookends our time out that way, you’ll have to wait for the blog posts that will offer insights into our adventure. One thing I am willing to share: we’ll be paying homage to one of Caroline’s favorite foods with a stop at the Canadian Potato Museum in O’Leary, Prince Edward Island.

Lights of the Mind

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

We move in the light and decipher our world in view of what is illuminated, and we attempt to enlighten our minds, though shrouded in absolute darkness. There’s something in the absence of the luminous universe that begs for discovery, and sometimes, it whispers at you to follow a path somewhere that might hold a level of importance you couldn’t have imagined prior. This is what writing and wandering hold for me.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Paths are many in the world we humans have constructed over millennia. No individual is able to decipher all the symbols, signs, histories, and cultural artifacts we’ve created, and so we narrow our focus to a near absolute minimum in the hopes we might figure out our tiny corner. With over 5,000 distinct ethnic groups, approximately 7,000 living languages spoken, and around 4,200 religions worldwide, I don’t believe there’s anyone in possession of any real knowledge about more than a fraction of those. Yet, we speak of the world as though it were knowable. How many of the 5,500 species of mammals, 11,100 species of birds, 7,300 species of reptiles, and 8,200 species of amphibians do you know off the top of your head? Of the 35,768 species of fish, can you name even 1%?

Duncan, Arizona

Do you remember why the sky is blue? The answer relates to Rayleigh scattering, which happens when light hits oxygen and nitrogen molecules. The clouds form why? Could it be because water condenses at colder altitudes onto dust, smoke, and salt particles in the atmosphere? Did you know that there are at least 1.85 million flying insect species out there under the wispy clouds in that blue heaven?

Old 1945 Chevy truck in Duncan, Arizona

But here we are, people who are occasionally able to focus on the road while pressing the gas pedal and maintaining the direction of a car, assuming we are not distracted by our phones. Not only that, but we are also able to decide which hat or shirt we’re going to wear. Our relative knowledge of complexity and ability to negotiate our world, by and large, is simple and not very sophisticated.

Northern Lights seen in Duncan, Arizona

I’m out in Duncan, Arizona, for close to a week, which also happens to coincide with an incredibly rare occurrence of the aurora borealis (Northern Lights) becoming visible this far south. I’m out here in eastern Arizona, searching my head for sequences of words that I can coax to fall from my hands upon a blank page. This is my exercise of struggle to convey ideas that may not be altogether new, but maybe they can represent a rare, unseen species of meaning that could signify something of a minor amount of novelty in the evolution of things.

Duncan, Arizona

When I stop to consider the presumptuous frivolity that I might find access to a representation of knowledge not previously shared, I fully understand the foolishness of my endeavor, but since when has rationality stopped humans from making assumptions that we know enough to make definitive statements and claims?

Duncan, Arizona

It was Sunday when I took this walk up the hill to the south of town. I had found my stride, which I didn’t have the confidence would happen on this trip. Leaving Caroline in Phoenix, who consequently takes the bus to and from work while I travel to the proverbial Sticks to incur the expenses that arrive with such adventures, can be a burden on both of us. First, I’d better be performant so we have some sense that the effort and sacrifices were worth the investment, and second, I try to share how appreciative I am that this luxury is afforded to me and hopefully not wasted.

Breakfast at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

The blueberries, plum, tangerine, strawberry, blackberry, and walnuts are easy to identify; below the fruit salad is a mulberry cake covered in a yogurt sauce. This is my breakfast. Writing is like the most complex plate of food ever set before you. Piled high are the more than approximately 429,544 words that make up the English language, while the average novel draws from a vocabulary of about 6,500 words on average. Now, consider that an educated native English speaker has a vocabulary of around 20,000 to 35,000 words, while the average adult is limited to about 5,000 to 10,000 words. This translates to the sad reality that the average person is able to utilize a mere 2.33%, at best, of the multitude of words that are available to them.

Let’s consider this in comparison to my extravagant fruit salad here: there are approximately 55 varieties of fruit available across the United States. If we were to only use 2.33% of them to make this breakfast, the plate would essentially have a single type of fruit on it. I’ll be the first to admit that I do love a bowl of strawberries, but on occasion, it’s nice to indulge in such extravagance. A book of an equivalent variety of words as this plate of fruit in the photo would contain about 43,000 unique words, yet the majority of people I encounter would pride themselves on their very limited vocabulary.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Inspired by German Romantic landscape artist Caspar David Friedrich, this diorama features a contemplative figure in silhouette depicting the spirituality and melancholy often found in Friedrich’s work. Writing for me feels a lot like the paintings of this artist, where the words I’m trying to construct into a coherent assemblage stand before me, demanding that I direct where the viewer will be standing next.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Language is the prism reflecting the potential order of words that could emerge in a picture that portrays a lucid idea, while, on the other hand, the kaleidoscope of fractured elements could distort any meaning that might have emerged had clarity of presentation been utilized. My dilemma is trying to thread the literary eye of the needle, refracting the story and leaving my mind in such a way that the image is a coherent representation of sense instead of a bunch of scattered thoughts that spill out in such a manner that nothing is conveyed.

Copper plates passing through Duncan, Arizona

Okay, it is time to leave the esoteric and detail something more than this exercise in creative writing that allows me to flex away from the daily routine I’ve been toiling under. While here in Duncan, Arizona, at the Simpson Hotel, it happens that I must take other meals aside from the gourmet concoctions Clayton, one of the two proprietors of the hotel, creates for me, and thus, I was walking to the Ranch House Restaurant for a bite to eat when I saw three semis parked roadside. Typically, these specific trucks pass through town, but up towards Morenci, there was a dead man from Mississippi lying on the highway, shot by local law enforcement after he opened fire on them when they tried to arrest him for the triple homicide of his mother and two sisters back in Ridgeland, Mississippi. The situation meant that the truckers were forced to take a pause before being able to travel again up and down that road, which is the only reasonable way in and out of Morenci.

Morenci also happens to be home to one of the planet’s largest copper mines, producing over $2 billion of the metal every year, and that’s what’s stacked on the backs of these trucks. Lucky me, the guys were walking into the Ranch House at the same time I was, and I was able to learn that each truck carries 51,000 pounds of the metal and that a lot of it was heading to Texas, where it would be melted down again to make wire. They also gave me a run-down of the shooting. The fragments hanging off the plates are copper scrap, of which I was able to collect a few pieces to share with Caroline when I got home, as neither of us had ever seen raw refined copper.

Gila River in Duncan, Arizona

While my primary mission is writing, I also need to work on my daily step requirements. The riparian area along the Gila River is one aspect of why it’s so charming to visit Duncan. The water levels are falling fast as Arizona rapidly moves out of our brief spring and head into summer. Once the monsoons return, the river should gather volume again, but before that, there could be a sandy river bottom exposed as it runs dry. Over on the shore of the island in the river channel, I caught the briefest sight of a beaver slipping below the water’s surface. This was a fortunate sighting for me; beavers used to be extinct on the Gila River and are still rare in the river valley.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

And then there’s this oasis, an enclave of subtlety and art where, for the duration of your time spent in the verdancy of the Simpson Garden, you are transported to a place that exists in deep green contrast to the environment beyond the grounds. As tragic as this will sound, I’ve spent very little time out here as my focus on writing tends to become singular with an obsessive streak to capture all that I can while the words are flowing. It is with regret that I put this admission on the page, as I’d rather be able to share honestly that I spend an inordinate amount of time in this refuge of calm.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Most every photo in this post is from a consolidation of the days spent out here, from the first featuring the lantern to the last of the cat below. I arrived on May 9th with the original plan imposed by a road closure on my way home to leave on the 14th, but the day prior to my departure, I learned that they were delaying the closure by a day, allowing me to drive home on the 15th, so I snagged the extra day. It had been my intention to leave the confines of the parlor to take up one of the four or five spots in the garden where I could sit down, but I feared that I’d get lost in a meandering meditation considering aspects of the art, architecture, design, insects, birds, cats, sounds, sensations, and other stimulation that promised to distract me.

Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Looking back at these impressions, photographed quickly with my phone instead of my far superior DSLR, I can only feel that I sacrificed something important where I had the opportunity to collect deeper impressions that could have allowed a quiet performance of the mind practicing stillness instead of the frantic word grab that was the motivating factor behind the 222 miles, almost four-hour drive to Duncan, Arizona. During the course of writing this post, I couldn’t help but consider how much I’d like to afford the forced downtime to simply exist in the garden to become a temporary permanent fixture like these three wise men who’ve taken up residence on one of the walls. It’s funny how consideration leads from one thing to the next because right in the middle of penning this, I reached out to Deborah at the Simpson enquiring about a room over the long Memorial Day weekend, and as chance would have it, the room of my dreams is available. So, with all of the proper intention to visit the garden again before things really heat up, Caroline and I will be leaving for Duncan next Friday. If all goes well, I’ll leave the writing behind in order to really be in the moment, but I’d be fooling myself.

Duncan, Arizona

Mornings are the quietest parts of the day when my meanders in the area are most conducive to discovering things in my head that stop me in my tracks to not what has bubbled up. Often, this is part of me talking out loud to myself and asking the universe when I’m stuck at a particular point in my writing where I should take the story. Sometimes, I might have been just looking at birds, a tree, or ruminating about something else when inspiration strikes, and I’m compelled to bring out my phone, eject the pen, and start jotting down notes. It’s happened more than once over these past few days and many times prior. As a matter of fact, I thought I was done with my writing chores here on the last partial day of my stay and that I’d take a leave of the Simpson relatively early, but after turning right here and passing through farms, that peculiar spark of encouragement had me standing roadside for close to a half hour furiously writing as fast as I could.

Molly the Cat at the Simpson Hotel in Duncan, Arizona

Back at the Simpson, contrary to my expectations, Clayton had not yet emerged to make coffee, which left me here with Molly, allowing me to indulge this super soft feline with rubs that guarantee she not only purrs crazily but also starts drooling by the bucket load. Okay, so I gave into that for about five minutes, and then I turned to transcribing my handwritten notes. Two hours later, and a small snack courtesy of Clayton, along with that promised coffee, I was packing up to start my drive home to see my own purring, drooling, equally soft and beautiful wife.

The Loom Must Awaken

Leclerc Four-shaft Floor Loom in Phoenix, Arizona

Considering today’s title and this image, you might be wondering how I am bringing weaving, Orthodox Easter, and David Lynch’s Dune together. Easy peasy: eggs, that’s how. Stay with me a second. A Romanian couple, neighbors actually, invited us to join them today for Orthodox Easter. Part of our meal at their place included dyed eggs. The tradition is thought to have originated in Ukraine, but that’s uncertain. In Ukraine the eggs are called Pysanky and are made with a dye-resist or batik method. The patterns used for making Pysanky were first inspired by patterns found in traditional Ukrainian embroidery and weaving. The type of eggs that Anna decorated are referred to as Lysanky in Ukrainian; we don’t know the Romanian word. For this, Anna wrapped parsley stems around the eggs before tying them into pantyhose to hold everything in place and then dyed the eggs by boiling them in water with onion skins.

Eggs at Easter make perfect sense, considering how life begins for us mammals with an egg and, while not a resurrection exactly, they are a kind of renewal. Traditionally, the egg has been a symbol associated with spring and rebirth. Eggs laid during Lent were often saved and decorated, then given as gifts or eaten to break the fast on Easter Sunday.

Weaving, too, is about life, continuity, and the interconnected whole. In Greek mythology, the Fates (or Moirai) were three goddesses who controlled the threads of human life, weaving them into complex tapestries that determined each person’s destiny, while for the Navajo (Diné), there’s “Na’ashjé’íí Asdzáá” known as Spider Woman who taught the Navajo how to weave; she’s also the goddess of fertility that gives rise to life.

But why the obscure reference to David Lynch’s Dune in particular? Who doesn’t remember the line, “The sleeper must awaken,” that foretells the story of Paul Atreides, who will effectively be resurrected into the Messianic character called the Kwisatz Haderach who saves the people of Arrakis?

We’d recently seen the newest iteration of Dune, Part 2, and we thought it sucked eggs (was pointless) and failed to deliver what Part 1 or Lynch’s original was able to offer. There was no real story woven together in that dud, and so, the loom of the narrative must awaken to resurrect the film, or else Part 3 can go to hell, sucking eggs all the way to its infernal end. Obviously, that would be a very unhappy Easter indeed, unlike the magnificent Sunday celebration we had with our neighbors.