Not Your Average Thursday – Trip 15

Caroline Wise and John Wise on Interstate 10 east of Quartzsite, Arizona

Nope, this is not your average Thursday, as everything is working differently. We woke earlier than we had for a while. Caroline had a 6:00 online workshop to attend, and I needed to get out early to wash the car before the heat of the day set in. Though Caroline is “in class,” she’s still working, but as it’s from home, she’s better positioned for our early afternoon departure. From the title of today’s post, you can see that we are embarking on trip 15. When we leave is in question as that depends on the needs coming from her office, and consequently, that dictates where we’ll be staying this evening.

The further we get down the Western road today, the greater the indulgence of incredible tomorrow. Over my iced soy latte, and obviously, at the last minute, I’m working out the details of exactly what we are aiming for and what we’ll avoid. The avoidance is considered as I find no joy in driving through the middle of Los Angeles in the evening, so I’d rather have us track north. If we didn’t want to drive Highway 1 up the Big Sur coast tomorrow, it would make more sense to drive to Tehachapi or Bakersfield and then hit the 101, but we need to spend as much time as possible crawling along that splendid ocean we are oh-so in love with.

Typically, there would be some emphasis on a nice spot to drop in on dinner but on these coastal long weekends that see us going so far north hugging the sea, food doesn’t play such an important role. With the prices of hotels scoped out from Simi Valley over to Ventura, I have an idea of where we might stay tonight but again, this depends on when we leave in some hours. And seeing we are getting ever closer to that time with the need to pack, clean a few things, make an extravagant lunch of sundubu-jjigae, and stop on our way out for an obligatory large iced coffee, I should give this preliminary travel blogging a rest and get back home to deal with those last-minute details.

It’s almost 2:00 p.m., and we are popping out and heading down the road, yippy.

Interstate 10 approaching Los Angeles, California

Dinner was at In N Out as we were passing through Indio, California. The photo of Caroline and me in the car was taken on Interstate 10 traveling west after getting gas east of Quartzsite almost 3 hours before this sunset photo, which was also shot from the moving car. Encountering the typical stressors found while driving through the Los Angeles area, we made our way over to Ventura to take a room at the Motel 6 South and fell immediately to sleep.

Ethel Cain

Ethel Cain at Valley Bar in Phoenix, Arizona

Closed out our day today with a live performance by Ethel Cain at the sold-out Valley Bar. First up as the opening act was Colyer who turns out to be the co-writer of Ethel’s song American Teenager. During his short 30-minute performance, we didn’t know of his connection to Ethel nor did we know that he’d be playing guitar during her set. Colyer seemed to be channeling Chris Isaak with a bit of Leonard Cohen sprinkled in (according to Caroline) and for me, it was a mix of Teddy Pendergrass and George Michael: slow vibes, and smoky sensuality for the shoegaze crowd.

Ethel took the stage to wild enthusiasm from the audience, and I can’t emphasize enough, seriously wild enthusiasm. The roar in this tiny 500-person venue reminded me of the kind of scream reserved for those who are on their way to superstardom. While I could be mistaken, I think Ethel opened with American Teenager which resonated with many in the crowd who are still a lot closer to their teenage years than us two oldies that were in attendance, probably looking like chaperones for some kids we brought. The rather short set closed with Crush and, as the old proverbial saying goes, “…the crowd went wild.” It was obvious that this was the most popular song of the evening if that is judged by the number of audience members singing along. Sadly, the encore was but one song, likely due to time constraints of this being an all-ages show and the bar needing to get to other business after kicking out the kids

Aaron Coldblood, John Wise, and Caroline Wise at Valley Bar in Phoenix, Arizona

Walking out of the venue we ran into Aaron Coldblood who we’ve not seen in a few years. Nothing has changed with Aaron, well except that his old dog passed away since we last saw him. We learned that Aaron has been wearing the hat of DJ most recently organizing shows here in Phoenix but with the possibility of a gig starting over in Vegas. His shows focus on industrial, Witch House, and something else I can’t recall. While you wouldn’t guess it from Aaron’s gruff exterior he’s quite the sweet guy who seriously loved his old dog, enjoys drives on the Pacific Coast, was brought to tears at a recent Tori Amos show and was nearly moved to tears by Ethel this evening, what a romantic.

Always Changing

Cactus flower in Phoenix, Arizona

The giant Cereus cactus flower greets us as part of the most vibrant abundance of cactus blooms we’ve ever seen living in this neighborhood. The cooler summer we’ve been experiencing and the wetter monsoon season, at least here in our corner of the Valley of the Sun, must be contributing factors. When the saguaros bloomed back in late springtime I didn’t manage to snag an image to share, somehow they weren’t as spectacular as in some of the previous years. With the evolving seasons, nature responds accordingly as conditions are always changing.

As we too are part of nature, we are always changing with it. Caroline’s foot has been mending nicely according to her doctor but also her experience, allowing her to slowly return to normal. Today was her first walk that took us out for 3 miles, the previous nearly 2 weeks saw her only collecting steps in 1-mile increments. This bodes well for a fast-approaching road trip that sees us traveling 706 miles (1,136 kilometers) over to Monterey, California, on the coast. It was just last Wednesday and only 20 days after her foot surgery (bunionectomy) that she was able to leave the recovery boot behind. Her foot is still being iced multiple times a day as there’s a tiny bit of residual swelling going on, but by and large, things are looking great and seemingly always changing.

Monterey Bay Aquarium Membership Pass

The surgery derailed our August travels though we did attempt to escape Phoenix a couple of times. This first trip of September taking us northwest is one of certitude; we are going. And since I mentioned Monterey you should know that it is the Monterey Bay Aquarium that holds the main attraction for us, not the bars, restaurants, trendy shops, swanky seaside hotels, or golfing. We will be putting on the miles walking along the ocean from our motel in Pacific Grove to the aquarium and then back to our motel late in the day.

Something less prone to change is my abhorrence of shopping for clothes, but after 8 years and 8 months I finally need to go buy new shirts and that’s what I’m going to do this morning after I save this as a draft post. You might wonder how I can be so accurate regarding my last date in a department store to buy shirts? I went back through old posts to see the approximate date when I changed shirt designs. You see, I wear my shirts well past the time when they should have been tossed in the trash and when I go buy new ones, the current shirts all head for the bin, and if I’m successful today, all of my shirts you’ve seen in my travel photos since December 2013 will be gone. So even if it doesn’t look like it, even my clothes are changing though it might take something close to a decade for that to happen.

Detail of worn-out shirts

I finally did it, I drove the 25 miles south to a mall I thought I’d have a good chance with, and while Macy’s let me down, Dillards came to the rescue. Buying clothes for myself gives me anxiety as bad as when buying a car, but it’s done and my salesperson Linda deserves a lot of the credit as I told her what I was looking for and without any dithering, she took me exactly where I needed to go. I am now the owner of 14 new shirts with a dozen marked down 60% because it is the end of summer and the store needed to clear them from inventory to make way for fall and winter lines. Lucky me. With this replenishing of shirt stock, I’ll be dumping all but one of my old shirts as it’s still a favorite that’s NOT coming apart, yet. The top orange shirt demonstrates how much it faded in the sun and the purplish one below it (maybe bluish, I’m colorblind) shows the collar separating.

Spicy pork bulgogi from Hodori Restaurant in Mesa, Arizona

In celebration, I stopped at Hodori Korean restaurant in Mesa for some spicy pork bulgogi. My next goal, not really a subject to be talked about as lunch is soon to arrive is that when I get home I should look for the prescription for my colonoscopy I’ve been trying to ignore. At 59 years old, I really should get my “Shit sock” and Schließmuskel looked at to see if it’s all in proper working order. If I could do that and get a couple of things repaired in our apartment, I will have crossed everything off my list of things to get done this year. Then, during the last third of the year, I can put my attention on what major things might be accomplished next year.

Got home and packed up the old shirts for Goodwill, even if they don’t want them they know where to recycle fabric and then I called the Gastroenterology Center, already filled out their form, sent it back in and now I’m waiting for them to fix me an appointment.

A surprise day where everything was moving towards change.

Best of Intentions

Verde River in Camp Verde, Arizona

Following the break of day, a walk around the block, breakfast at home, and finally a coffee on our way to the freeway, we leave under glorious skies for an overnight trip to Flagstaff, Arizona. We measured taking the western scenic route and the eastern scenic route and finally opted to take the middle way, which is Highway 17, a.k.a. the Black Canyon Freeway. The desert out of Phoenix was lush, which is testimony to the active monsoon season we’ve been having, but as is the story with freeways, pulling over for photos can be difficult. Passing through Camp Verde and crossing a muddy river, I jumped off the next exit to double back for a closer view of the Verde River. What this photo does not convey is the noisy chorus of grasshoppers and cicadas and the lively ballet of dragonflies and bumblebees entertaining us for a few minutes.

Sedona, Arizona

Unable to stick to the plan of going directly to our destination, we felt Highway 179 beckoning us to drive through Sedona before picking up Oak Creek Canyon en route to Flagstaff, so why not?

Sedona, Arizona

That’s Bell Rock, and if you look closely, maybe you can see the vortex streaming out of the center of the rock; well, that is if you can see it through my aura that’s spilling into the photo.

Rain in Oak Creek Canyon Sedona, Arizona

Great job, John; make fun of the kooks of Sedona and their $45 aura photographs, crystals, vortex skinny dipping, and yoga in a Pink Jeep while off-road, and it’ll rain so hard on you that you have to pull over. This may not look like a torrential downpour, but I assure you that while driving, we couldn’t see our phones anymore as we had to seriously concentrate on the wet road.

Oak Creek Canyon Sedona, Arizona

Fortunately, Caroline brought a crystal with her, so we lit some patchouli incense, put on our sandals, and smoked a joint before saying a prayer to Lord Ganesh. Before we knew it, the rains stopped, and we were able to get stuck for nearly 30 minutes waiting for backed-up traffic to pass through a one-lane restriction on the road ahead. Maybe we should have made obeisance to Jesus?

Proper Meat and Provisions in Flagstaff, Arizona

We finally arrived in Flagstaff starving as it took us over four hours to get here instead of the two hours as Google thought. I don’t know how this was Caroline’s fault, but that doesn’t begin to matter as our secret to this happy marriage is that everything is her fault, so we’ll just go with that. No matter by now either, as not only have we arrived in this mountain town, we are at Proper Meat and Provisions for lunch. Another patty melt, pastrami and green chili sandwich, along with chicharrones and we squeezed in between all the young people traveling with old people. The couple at our shared table asked if we, too, were dropping off a young college student. Nope, but this explains the high price for hotels this weekend and all the traffic on the way up.

Flagstaff, Arizona

Stuffed and I really mean stuffed, we needed to walk off some of the gluttony, but four raindrops persuaded us to dip for shelter in order to avoid melting.

Caroline Wise at Late For The Train in Flagstaff, Arizona

Where else but a coffee shop should we hide from the tempest raging outside? Should you think I’m talking of those four raindrops, I mean the torrents of students introducing other students to the downtown area of Flagstaff, the parents, and siblings of the older brother/sister/pronoun of choice who is not even trying not to look disaffected and bored with the chaperones and all these dogs everywhere. Dogs, are they readying themselves for university, too?

No, the dogs are part of a Barks and Brews event described as a “Doggie Pub Crawl.” From a Flagstaff website:

Limited Early Bird Tickets are available for $50! Regular tickets and day-of tickets will be $60. Tickets include a souvenir tasting glass, doggie water bowl & bandanna, lanyard, and tasting pass good for two beer tastings from several local breweries, including Beaver Street, Dark Sky, Grand Canyon, Historic, Lumberyard, Mother Road, Wanderlust, and Sweetwater Brewing!

Proceeds go to charity.

That’s it; we are bailing out on the idea of spending the night. Our idea of grabbing a crap motel on the edge of town has been dashed as those places knowing a good thing when they sense it, have all raised their prices from the $55 we budgeted (yep, that’s how cheap we can be) to the sky-high price of almost $100.

But now we know that Oak Creek Canyon is not an option to go home, and the 17 South is under construction and limited to one lane, so we’ll be trying the Lake Mary Road, wondering what shenanigans the gods of karmic charm have in store for us.

There we were, packing up to make our way to the car, when some god or other smote us for talking of their potential wrath and opened the sky with a downpour. Not four little drops this time, we’re talking soaked before we ever get a dozen feet away from the front door of Late for the Train Coffee Shop, that’s the place name of where we’ve been sitting, sipping, sewing, and writing.

Driving south on Lake Mary's Road in Arizona

Under a light drizzle, thunder and lightning, and even a faint rainbow, we got to our car and bailed out of Flagstaff, leaving the dark clouds behind us.

Driving south on Lake Mary's Road in Arizona

But this being a John and Caroline adventure, we had to stop and smell the sunflowers. Caroline even grabbed a handful to bring home with us, and while this is jumping ahead, they didn’t look good by the time we got there, but by morning, they’d sprung back to life and brought smiles to our faces, so that was wonderful.

Driving south on Lake Mary's Road in Arizona

That’s Flagstaff out in the center of this photo, and while I might be sharing too many photos that are slightly different with the sunlit grasses, bits of blue sky, and heavy dark clouds pouring out rain, we were so enchanted by the contrasts that I couldn’t help but take a few.

Caroline Wise and John Wise driving south on Lake Mary's Road in Arizona

Speaking of smiling faces.

Driving south on Lake Mary's Road in Arizona

Squint, and you might see the sliver of Mormon Lake that appears to be quickly disappearing.

Driving south on Lake Mary's Road in Arizona

While hints of monsoon were always nearby, we made it to Payson, where we stopped for dinner as we knew we’d not be back in Phoenix before 8:00, and being the old people we are now, eating that late doesn’t much work very well for us. Strange thing, this aging process, and while we’re not even 60 yet, we’ve heard plenty from the 70- and 80-year-olds how we’re still young, but to our 20- to 40-year-old selves, we grow ever more familiar with the changes that come with adding on the days, months, and years that move us closer to old. I’d bet a dollar when we are sitting here lamenting the changes of having reached 75 that some nearby 90-year-old will tell us just how young we still are, which means I think we should just keep looking to the clouds and smiling.

First Ever Digital Group Selfie

Uwe Schmidt, John Wise, Caroline Wise, and Olaf Finkbeiner in Frankfurt, Germany around 1990

Back in December of 2005, the first year I was blogging, I posted a scan of a black and white printout of this photo. I told the story of how the digital file was long gone, lost to the age of the Commodore Amiga and the passage of time. The image was captured in 1990 using a method that the digitizer wasn’t really intended for, by focusing on living things that might move during the capture process. Because there was no way possible to manually turn the color wheel to red, green, and blue (which allowed the digitizer to capture each color channel separately) between capturing shots while we remained frozen in time, we picked one of the filter colors and ended up with a black-and-white image. We printed it with a dot matrix printer and somehow that piece of paper stayed with Caroline and me during our move from Germany and then survived 1o more years in the United States. Now here we are, 30 years after we took our very first digital selfie and today Olaf Finkbeiner (the guy on the right) sent me a copy in color. While Caroline never had purple hair, I think this is simply amazing. On the left is Uwe Schmidt (Atom™), then I in the background, Caroline, and of course Olaf. The skull is named Anton and he still resides with my mother-in-law Jutta who has agreed to take him to her grave when she passes. I cannot forget to give credit to Jo Lincke for putting in the work using Photoshop’s Neural filter to help restore such a beautiful memory. And while I cannot be certain, I can at least confidently claim that this is probably the very first digital group selfie ever taken!

Filling The Space Between

Cumbres & Toltec Steam Train running from Antonito, Colorado to Chama, New Mexico

How often does the average person tend to provide specific details regarding events that occurred more than a dozen years ago? This excavation of my own past has been my main task for the past few weeks as I reworked 30 old blog posts pertaining to travels taken from May 15, 2009, through October 17 of the same year.

Jessica Aldridge the killer crab about to pop the head off innocent tourist John Wise at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St. Michaels, Maryland

I surely have explained elsewhere on my blog (or on the very indexes I’ve been creating to come up with a comprehensive list of all of our travels) that I’m repairing posts that were thin on photos and details when they were originally created. You see, back in the old days, bandwidth was at a premium, and nobody had time to wait for even five photos to download, so my posts reflected those limits. Consequently, with 1 to 3 photos per travel day, I would have compressed the events of the day into the 3 to 5 paragraphs that accompanied the images.

Caroline Wise and Jutta Engelhardt visiting the Statue of Liberty in New York

So, after our last adventure that saw us up in Williams, Arizona, for a weekend of hiking at the end of July and the fast-approaching date of Caroline’s bunionectomy, I turned my attention not just to caring for my invalid wife but also to my travel index. This index presents a bit of a challenge, though, because to select a single photo to represent a specific day, I need to be certain that I have the best one. All too often, my heart sinks when I review an old post and see its sole image or maybe the 2 or 3 that are there. Sure enough, I checked the photo directory of that date, and when I saw that I shot anywhere from 75 up to 1,000 photos, I groaned under the weight that there was a lot of visual information I had neglected.

Barber Chair at Eastern State Penitentiary in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

I end up readjusting the old photos that accompanied the original posting and then get busy adding a bunch more. Regarding the 30 posts I worked on in the past few weeks, I ended up adding more than 600 photos from the archive, so we now have a better visual representation of the events of those days. But I can’t just add a bunch of photos without some explanation/narrative that accompanies each new image. In some instances, there was enough information in the compressed paragraphs detailing the majority of the day that I could pull inspiration from, while in some situations, such as our visit to Eastern State Penitentiary in Philadelphia, I had a lot of writing that had to be cared for.

Caroline Wise on the Trail to Havasu Falls on the Havasupai Nation in Arizona

That’s what I’ve been working on, and like my previous attempts to make progress on this massive undertaking, I have to take a break from the tedium. There’s a risk I fall into compulsive frantic attention to this task that is taking far longer than I ever imagined. At this point in the index, I’m on day 677, which is a measure of each day that we traveled away from Phoenix, Arizona, since August 9, 1999, and the commercial advent of digital photography when we were able to easily start cataloging our travels. By the way, this index does not include day trips.

The U.S. Capitol building in Washington D.C.

Now, with about a couple of weeks before our next outing, I can turn my focus to other compulsive activities, such as some deeper reading and turning to my synth for some much-needed exploration.

All of the above photos were taken between May 15 and October 17, 2009. Over in the right column under “Other Pages,” you’ll find the links to the evolving index of “Our Travels.”