Colonial Williamsburg

A room from the old psychiatric hospital, now a museum in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

It being Saturday, it was time for Jessica’s chains to come off so we could take her from the Public Hospital for some fresh air. She’s been making progress since thinking she had turned into a crab bent on dismembering her father, and her doctors felt it was a good time to allow her a small taste of freedom. This old hospital built in 1773 for the mentally ill is now a museum here in Colonial Williamsburg and was one of our first stops on a busy day. Someone had made the best recommendation for a great breakfast at the Old Chickahominy House, and I do mean great; their biscuits are otherworldly.

Governors Palace in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

Arriving early we were offered the opportunity to miss the otherwise long lines that form to tour the Governor’s Palace. Just in case you were wondering, my daughter wasn’t really chained to the wall in a mental hospital; she was actually stuffed in the trunk of our car overnight.

Governors Palace in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

When Caroline, her mom, and I were here back in May, we didn’t have the time to visit the Governor’s Palace, which was unfortunate. On this visit, we learned that it was well worth buying the Colonial Williamsburg Admission Pass. The tour is conducted by guides in period dress who are very knowledgeable about the Palace and how it functioned in its day.

The last governor to reside here was Thomas Jefferson. Unfortunately, fire consumed the original structure, but the reconstructed palace offers a great feel for what had once been here.

Governors Palace in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

A close-up view of the wallpaper from the room above. This is the level of detail they’ve taken in these restorations. Speaking of the process of restoration and preservation, it was John D. Rockefeller back in 1926 who was inspired to take on the project of saving this important part of Colonial America.

Governors Palace in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

I can only imagine what it costs to maintain this herculean effort of preservation, so visitors have this opportunity to peer back into history.

Governors Palace in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

There is one downside to witnessing so much living history: can it survive capitalism? If the National Park system took over this historic district, it would likely strip the actors and reduce things to self-guided tours. Restaurants would be served by some ugly cafeteria-like contractor as it does with much of its food service. It is a kind of tragedy that a place like Colonial Williamsburg appears to be of not much interest to middle America. Maybe things would run better if it was more like the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite (rooms there are $1,000 per night). The wealthy would take a greater interest in ensuring it was well-funded into the future.

A living exhibit at the Governors Palace in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

Seeing the kitchen at work really adds to the sense of the time some couple of hundred years ago.

Governors Palace in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

The gardens of the Governor’s Palace.

Servants quarters.

An art exhibit piece at the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

The DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum is entered through the Public Hospital. This was another item missed when we were here with my mother-in-law earlier this year.

An art exhibit piece at the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

We spent two hours sifting through the exhibits and could have easily spent another few hours had time allowed.

An art exhibit piece at the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

This stoneware jug from either Cologne or Frechen, Germany, was made between 1550 and 1575 and gifted to Adam Winthrop, who gave it to his son John Winthrop, one of the first governors of the Massachusetts Bay Colony. He brought it to America in 1630 after leaving England that year.

An art exhibit piece at the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

The Abbey Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art Museum is part of the DeWitt and adds a great sense of the personal creativity from those colonial times that helps round out our museum visit.

Back on Duke of Gloucester Street we stop at the Weavers Shop and watch a demonstration of spinning fibers to make yarn. This didn’t last long as we were once again hungry and shortly on our way to the King’s Arms Tavern for lunch.

Interior of the Capitol Building at Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

The next stop is at the Capitol Building, where, earlier in the year, we were able to enjoy a harpsichord concert by candlelight. Taking the tours and listening to the guides walk us through the history of the period really helps capture a better feeling for the place we are visiting. Don’t skimp trying to save a few dollars when visiting Williamsburg by listening to some other websites out there that say you can see plenty on your own; the admission pass opens up the history that is on offer here.

Notes that could have been annotated to my photos sure would have been helpful so I could describe the purpose of this room in the Capitol building.

“We are here to negotiate the release of one of your prisoners.”

Jessica Aldridge behind bars in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

Yeppers, my daughter, ended up in jail. I posted bail, and lucky for her the judge let her off easy. What did she do to deserve this, you ask? She was seen in public kissing fishes; some old law on the books forbids public displays of intimacy with ectothermic piscine life; who knew?

Woodworking shop in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

The evening is quickly approaching. We have visited a number of small shops and woven our way through the streets of Colonial Williamsburg.

Draftsman at Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

Visiting the draftsman will be the last stop on this leg of the day as we’ll start moving toward our dinner reservation.

A fife and drum marching band on parade up Main Street in Colonial Williasmburg, Virginia

Our feet are beginning to hurt, and hunger is approaching, but still, we are willing to rush from one corner of the historic district to the other end as cannon fire draws our attention back toward the Capitol Building. We arrive at a fife and drum marching band parading up Duke of Gloucester Street. Caroline ran ahead to capture the ceremony on video as Jessica, and I limped along at a snail’s pace before reaching the still-playing band. There is way too much to do here in a mere day.

A candle lit table at Shields Tavern in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

We are sitting down in Shields Tavern for a candle-lit dinner in another historic setting, with staff donning clothing from colonial times.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Shields Tavern in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

While the food is decent, it is the ambiance and the entertainment that has us wishing that we, too, were dressing for the occasion and not wearing casual 21st-century clothing. Make reservations early for the Taverns, as you could have quite the long wait if you were so daring as to try to get a table at the last minute. After dinner, it was time for an organ concert at Bruton Parish Church, which we thoroughly enjoyed. While the church is located in the middle of Colonial Williamsburg, it is not actually part of it, and anybody can attend services or concerts in this historic church, which was built in 1715, although the parish history dates back to 1660.

Playing Shut the Box game at Chowning's Tavern in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia

Not wanting the day to end after the concert we step into Chowning’s Tavern for some drinks and games. Hot tea all around, we know how to party – not. On a nearby table, some folks are playing a game. We watch, and then the girls grab one as it becomes free. A member of the bar staff is snagged and asked how this works, and in moments, Caroline and Jessica are playing Shut the Box. The game, also known as Canoga and Klackers, originates from at least the 12th century. We sipped our teas, listened to the live music, played more Shut the Box, and with eyes growing ever heavier, we called it a night and walked back to our hotel.

DelMarVa Peninsula

Caroline Wise catching the big one with Jessica Aldridge on the hook at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St. Michaels, Maryland

Caroline and I went fishing, and she hooked the damned ugliest fish I’ve ever seen. I swear, as that thing jumped out of the water, it was screaming, “Hey, I’m your long-lost daughter; take me home with you!” Stupid me kissed it, remembering the princess-and-frog story and thinking there might be an element of truth to this fish’s story, and instead, all I got was this cold, wet fish mouth of a kiss that smelled, well, like fish. Sure, I, too, was thinking, well, if this is my daughter, what am I doing kissing it on the mouth? Sorry, but there’s no explaining this one. Fairy tales coming true were not in the cards today, only a case for Sigmund Freud to try figuring out.

Jessica Aldridge the killer crab about to pop the head off innocent tourist John Wise at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St. Michaels, Maryland

Back on terra firma, I think the nightmare is over when, as I’m innocently walking down the street here in St. Michaels, Maryland, a killer crab scuttles toward me (sideways, of course) and soon has me in its claws ready to pop my head off. Oh My God, this even-uglier-than-the-fish crab garbles with a sinister crab voice, “I’m your daughter, big daddy; come on now, give me a big kiss so I can turn back into your loving daughter!” Just about then, Caroline came to my rescue and, with deft agility, tossed this sea monster into a pot of boiling water. I kept my head and, with a ramekin of drawn butter, sat down to enjoy a lunch of ugly crab.

Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St. Michaels, Maryland

While we didn’t get to visit an open Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, as we were too early for that kind of stuff, we did have fun with the photo antics, so there was that.

Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum in St. Michaels, Maryland

And there was this great blue heron that attracted our admiration, as they always do.

Driving south near the Chesapeake Bay in Maryland

We are driving south over the DelMarVa (Delaware, Maryland, Virginia) peninsula and will be taking our time about it.

Cattails at water's edge at the Blackwater Wildlife Refuge in Maryland

Sorry to disappoint you if you were looking for an incarnation of my daughter materializing in a cattail, but this story isn’t quite that absurd – seriously. This is just a plain old common cattail photographed at the Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge in Maryland.

A pond at the Blackwater Wildlife Refuge in Maryland

It’s difficult to comprehend just how big the Chesapeake Bay is as it collects the waters of more than 150 rivers and streams from six states that feed the bay. As the biggest estuary in the United States, it makes sense that its size should be incomprehensible.

Bald eagle at the Blackwater Wildlife Refuge in Maryland

I know that this is not a great or even good photo, but it’s of a bald eagle. For those of us who live in deserts, seeing eagles is not a very common sight, so I have to leave this reminder here that we saw eagles while we were here.

Cranes at the Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge in Maryland

The skies are gray, overcast, and dreary, but even with the pallor overhead, we are enjoying the bird watching. We spot cormorants, hawks, buzzards, a dozen small varieties of birds (no bird guide with us), and a lot of cranes. We linger a while, hoping for a break in the sky; we wait on eagles, hoping to see them launch from their perch on high, but under these placid conditions, the scene is a meditative one, inviting us to take a nap in the car within the wetlands we are touring. Sleep will have to wait, though; we have a destination in mind.

Buzzard at Blackwater Wildlife Refuge in Maryland

That buzzard is throwing us some stinkeye as we interrupt its delightful meal of rotting meat on the bone with a side of fur. Before it threw its attention on plucking out our tongues, we moved along.

Oops, I didn’t realize I was shooting this with a shallow depth of field, so maybe you can’t make out the sign behind Caroline and Jessica, but we’ve just entered Virginia.

Some things never seem to change much, and Susan’s Seafood here in New Church, Virginia, is one of those places. Not that we’ve ever been inside this establishment, but nine years ago, when Caroline and I were on our first cross-country road trip, we traveled this exact path, and between this photo and the one just above, you’ll see we are at the same two locations on that trip. Click here to see the old blog post.

Free-range pig?

The shell of this ruin suggests that this was at one time an incredibly beautiful home, at least in my purview. Why it was allowed to fall into disrepair is anyone’s guess, but if I were to venture to offer my 2 cents, it likely would have been due to economic reasons as we are too far off the beaten path, and small farmers are an archaic relic of the past.

I believe we were approaching the bottom of the peninsula at this time, but details are lost.

It sure is flat out here.

The crop that defined a large part of the southeastern United States and a snow-white blemish on our history: cotton.

Jessica Aldridge roadside on the Chesapeake Bay bridge and tunnel in Virginia

Here we are, thinking the third time will be the charm; hmmm, what is it about this Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel that Caroline and I are here either in the dark or on cloudy days? And why didn’t the engineers of this man-made phenomenon known as one of the seven engineering wonders of the modern world not build more pullouts for us tourists who want to stop and take crummy pictures of a bridge under gray skies? I did manage to get this one nice photo of Jessica at one of the two pullouts on this 20-mile-long four-lane bridge and tunnel highway crossing the lower Chesapeake Bay.

Caroline Wise at Christina Campell's Tavern in Williamsburg, Virginia

It’s almost evening as we arrive in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia. After checking into the Woodlands Hotel we take aim for the historic district for our reservations at Christina Campell’s Tavern, where we’ll be dining.

Christina Campell's Tavern in Williamsburg, Virginia

There’s such great attention to detail for keeping things as authentic as possible. Hopefully, Williamsburg is never thrown to corporate profit monsters who will reduce this experience into the horror of money above all.

Jessica Aldridge at Christina Campell's Tavern in Williamsburg, Virginia

It’s kind of strange that my daughter has been living out here on the eastern seaboard and has never visited this part of the world.

A gentleman in period costume at Christina Campell's Tavern in Williamsburg, Virginia playing a recorder

The highlight of the evening was the entertainment provided by the gentleman above, who sang a wonderful song titled “Bold William Taylor” while he played his guitar. I do know the difference between a guitar and a tin whistle, but I didn’t have a nice photo of him playing the guitar, so you get this photo of him playing a tin whistle. Caroline really liked his particular rendition, but this version on YouTube comes pretty close (and has bagpipes).

Tilghman Island Maryland

Flying over the middle of America

Caroline and I landed late in the afternoon at the Baltimore airport, my daughter Jessica arriving a couple of hours earlier. It took another half hour for the three of us to find one another; admittedly, cell phones would have come in handy here.

Tilghman Island, Maryland

Across the Chesapeake Bay, we check into our hotel in St. Michaels and then take a night drive out to Tilghman Island.

Tilghman Island draw bridge in Maryland at night

Back in May, my mother-in-law Jutta and I were here and went sailing on the Lady Patty with Cpt. Chris Richards and his first mate Helen – we had a blast. Tomorrow, just before daybreak, Caroline, Jessica, and I are scheduled to go sailing aboard the Lady Patty for a sunrise tour on the Chesapeake. At 6:15 a.m., our host Cpt. Chris arrives with the bad news that Helen has been injured and that he must cancel our trip due to the emergency situation. Sadly, this will have been the last time we will ever see Cpt. Chris because six days later, on October 1st, he was involved in a tree-felling accident with injuries that would take his life. To see a photo of Cpt. Chris, Helen, and my mother-in-law, click here,

Jessica Aldridge on Tilghman Island, Maryland

A dark night on Tilghman Island, where lives were making changes and taking turns.