Carlsbad Caverns National Park – Day 4

Jutta Engelhardt in Roswell, New Mexico

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Wow, I was wrong about where we were going to be last night! We ended up at the Sands Motel in Portales, New Mexico. From there, it was only 90 miles over to the Nuthin Fancy Cafe in Roswell, New Mexico, for breakfast. If you think my mother-in-law had any interest in visiting the world-famous UFO Museum and Research Center, you’d be nuts; this lady came out of having survived World War II in Germany and could give 2 cents of concern about some crazy idea that a UFO landed nearby. Yeah, I thought the same thing, “Your loss old lady.”

Jutta Engelhardt at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We made our way to Carlsbad Caverns National Park instead because in America’s natural wonders, Jutta has a big interest.

Oh, look, it’s the Cave Door Greeter, kind of like the human equivalent at Walmart or Costco.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

After selling my mother-in-law on how great the slow trail through the Natural Entrance to the Big Room is, she agreed to go for a little walk.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Caroline and I have already visited Carlsbad Caverns on three previous visits in 1998, 1999, and 2002; I hadn’t anticipated that I’d still be able to appreciate it as much as I am.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There’s one thing missing as Jutta and I make our way into the cave: the chatter of her and Caroline nattering on in German about what they are looking at.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There are eight more images from inside the cave following this one; you can rest assured that I feel like deleting all of them and cutting to the juicy bits that will follow later in the evening.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

But I love these photos, even if they are only 8 megapixels each.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

These contrasting colors and various rock types, many of them coated in the frozen minerals leached out of the surrounding earth, make for striking images and are on a scale that makes one feel like the puny little human one is.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

There are three other visitable caves nearby, including Lower Cave, Hall of the White Giant, and Slaughter Canyon Cave, that we’ve yet to visit. I think we need to better plan our spontaneous trips.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Just imagine what these might have looked like when water was flowing over them. Over at nearby Lechuguilla Cave, one might see it (if they are a scientist and can wait years for permission after convincing the park service that their research is worthy and they have the requisite skills for serious caving).

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Of course, one could visit Kartchner Caverns in Benson, Arizona, to see a living cave system, but with their no-photography rules I fail to understand the attraction fully. I need photos, or we were never there.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

We actually have been to Kartchner because when I bought tickets they didn’t tell me ahead of time that photography wasn’t allowed. I can’t even remember what I saw as my jaw was clenched down so tightly that it apparently obscured my vision and erased my memory. Now consider this view of yet another psychedelic chamber: I know I was here, right here at the spot where this photo was taken, and that makes this place sit in my memories for years, and if ever I need a reminder, I just look back to these days and revel in the experiences we’ve been able to obtain.

[Or could it be that you have no memory of Kartchner because the cave tour itself felt very short, the bats were off lounging in Mexico, and the seeming majority of our visit was spent looking at some light show accompanied by new-agey music? – Caroline]

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

No tripod, handheld, not the best ISO, and still, I managed to snap off three portrait images of this giant cascade to stitch into a panorama.

Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

Those are soda straw formations and represent the end of our self-guided tour of Carlsbad, well, the caverns anyway; there’s more to come above ground.

Bat flyout at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico

At dusk, you might be so lucky, depending on the time of year, that you too can witness the Bat Flyout. My mother-in-law had one word to describe this phenomenon, “Sagenhaft,” which translates to fabulous or amazing.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

Sadly, the bats missed this cockroach, probably because it and a bevy of its friends were camping out in what can easily be described as the worst room ever in any of the cheap motels we’ve sunk to staying in.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

This one, though, will not be stayed in. It took everything in my power to remain in this room to take these photos.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

So disgusting it was I didn’t even bother to haggle about a refund; I simply wanted my mother-in-law and me to put as many miles between us and this shithole as quickly as possible. Sadly, this was the only motel in Las Cruces that had availability, which meant that though it was approaching midnight, we’d have to tough it out for another hour until we reached Deming, New Mexico, with fingers crossed we’d find a room

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

While it might be difficult to make out, I believe this is the outline of a dead body and the single greatest contributing factor as to why this room smells something worse than hell.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

I’m still trying to figure out what happened to the curtains.

Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico

This was that place of nope, the Town House Motel in Las Cruces, New Mexico. Seriously, nothing compares to this in all of our travels.

Pioneer Cafe in Palisade, Nebraska – Day 3

Out in the flat part of Nebraska

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

This was the real reason for bringing my mother-in-law to the middle of America: the Great Plains.

Wheat in Nebraska

Golden waves of grain, living up to the American vision of things being beautiful and bountiful.

Abandoned farm vehicle in Nebraska

A spry 80-year-old widowed farmer feeding her cows crawled up over a nearby fence to chat with us and talk to us about her life out this way. She also told us about her favorite cafe not too far off.

Entering Palisade, Nebraska

That little old lady pointed us to Palisade and just over the railroad tracks on Main Street for breakfast. Love them grain silos.

At the Pioneer Cafe in Palisade, Nebraska with Jutta Engelhardt

We had a great breakfast at the Pioneer Cafe in Palisade, Nebraska. Ashley, the girl with the yellow shirt, was in training as this was her first day, and we were her first customers. The ladies at the Pioneer Cafe left a great impression on my mother-in-law, who thoroughly enjoyed their hospitality. If ever you find yourself near Palisade, Nebraska, you should stop in at 104 Main St for some great food, great service, and incredibly low prices.

Jutta Engelhardt at the Kansas Stateline

Kansas, you have the best Stateline sign for taking photos of people with the sunflower crowning them.

Grain silos in Monument, Kansas

Traveling on Kansas Highway 25 out in the middle of nowhere, we make a very short detour east as I see a capital specimen of a grain silo with an invitation to drop into the El Ranchito Mexican Cafe.

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise in Moscow, Kansas

Caroline and I passed through here on our very first cross-country trip just five years before this.

Jutta Engelhardt at the Oklahoma Stateline

In keeping with the souvenir hunt of photos of my mother-in-law in front of as many Stateline signs as I can capture, I present Jutta Engelhardt visiting Oklahoma.

Jutta Engelhardt driving in Oklahoma with John Wise

The look on my face is explained by the fact that this is the first time Jutta has driven a car in more than 20 years. After some practice, I let her drive all the way across the panhandle of Oklahoma from the Kansas border to Texas. Aside from my hamming it up for the camera, my mother-in-law just loved this opportunity.

Jutta Engelhardt at the Texas Stateline

Back on terra firma, Jutta had to touch something solid and unmoving: Hello, Texas.

John Wise in Dumas, Texas

This selfie was taken for Caroline because while some might pronounce this in the French style as “Doo-maa,” Texas pronounces it “Dew-mus,” and of course, I go for “Dumb-ass.”

Jutta Engelhardt and a turtle in Texas

Saving turtles in Texas, as that’s what one does when barreling down the highway. Next stop: still somewhere in Texas because it’s a really big state.

Nebraska The Good Life – Day 2

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise at the Wyoming Stateline

Disclaimer: This post was updated in November 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. The bigger details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

After our night in Longmont, Colorado, Jutta and I got on Interstate 25 as we had many miles to cover today and, while we could have stayed in Wyoming until we reached our ultimate destination, why not dip into another state for bragging rights about how many of these American states could be visited in a quick 5-day mother-in-law/son-in-law road trip.

In front of the Welcome to Nebraska State sign celebrating the Good Life with Jutta Engelhardt

Out of Wyoming and into Nebraska. While this is one of my favorite photos, as I never in my wildest dreams thought I’d get her to “dance …the good life,” there’s one coming tomorrow that will forever stay with me.

On the road in Nebraska

Ah, the Great Plains looking great.

On the road in Nebraska

What, there are trees out here?

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise at Agate Fossil Beds National Monument in Harrison, Nebraska

I don’t know what face of excitement Jutta has on, but mine was about bringing a fossil to the Agate Fossil Beds in Harrison, Nebraska.

The Lakota Winter Count at the James H. Cook exhibit Agate Fossil Beds in Nebraska

This is the Lakota Winter Count at the James H. Cook exhibit here at the National Monument.

Fort Robinson State Park near Crawford, Nebraska

Still traveling north, we stopped in for a brief visit at the Fort Robinson State Park near Crawford, Nebraska.

Big horn steer in Nebraska

Are you lost? I thought these belonged in Texas.

Jutta Engelhardt at the South Dakota Stateline

Hmm, Great Faces, Great Places. Could this be a clue about our destination on this roughly 2,500-mile roundtrip?

Old farm tools roadside in South Dakota

I seem to have a fascination with old farm tools, broken-down homes, and stupidly long and brutal drives as far away as I can go.

Jutta Engelhardt at Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota

We have time to pass through the Wind Cave National Park but no time to stop; plus, Caroline should be along for the first visit to a national park we’ve not yet been to.

Prairie Dog at Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota

Ooh, wildlife and Wind Cave.

Bison at Custer State Park in South Dakota

Nope, this is not at Wind Cave National Park; we are now driving through Custer State Park with these bison following us. Just kidding.

Custer State Park in South Dakota

I just love these roads through Custer State Park.

Custer State Park in South Dakota

Enchanting is how one should describe the corkscrew turns and old wood bridges that pass through.

Mount Rushmore in South Dakota

I don’t believe anyone needs to be told that this is Mount Rushmore. Well, my mother-in-law has now seen it with her own eyes.

God rays in South Dakota

Time to head south as we have a long drive home that will likely involve some detours.

Longhorn Saloon in Scenic, South Dakota

Check out the inebriated celebrants in front of the Longhorn Saloon that closed about five years after we drove through.

Jutta Engelhardt at the Nebraska Stateline

No dancing late in the day, huh?

Jutta and John on a Roadtrip – Day 1

Jutta Engelhardt at Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona

Disclaimer: This post was updated in October 2022, as the original only included 1 photo. Most of the details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Jutta and I left early this morning for a road trip that would take us from Phoenix to New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, South Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, and back to New Mexico before returning to Phoenix, Arizona. But first up was a quick stop at the Petrified National Forest.

Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona

We didn’t head out into the wilderness or down any amazing trails but did a bit of sightseeing from the car so Jutta could refresh her memory of her previous visit.

Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona

This is one of the nice aspects of keeping our National Parks Pass current as it doesn’t bother us to dip in for a brief visit, and just that quickly, we were back on Interstate 40 driving east.

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise enjoying a Dairy Queen somewhere in New Mexico

With such a long drive today and Jutta’s tendency to get sleepy in the car, there’s nothing like a Blizzard from Dairy Queen to pick her up. We were passing through Gallup, New Mexico, where gas and toilet facilities were also likely needed.

Somewhere between New Mexico and Colorado

With this being one of Jutta’s longest stays in the United States and Arizona moving into summer, I thought it would be a good idea for her and me to not only have a little 5-day mother-in-law/son-in-law road trip but to get her to cooler climes. Unfortunately, I’d forgotten that monsoons get started earlier in New Mexico than for us just west of this state. Oh well, soon, we’ll be heading north.

Jutta Engelhardt and John Wise on a road trip

Did someone say they needed a coffee? Hey, that’s a good idea! So it was time to call Caroline and ask her to find us the nearest Starbucks. She came through, and we are reenergized and can keep plowing ahead.

Sunset in Colorado

I can only guess that we were somewhere between Colmor and Springer, New Mexico, although we could be a hair just south of that, too.

Blackjack's Saloon & Steak House in Trinidad, Colorado

It was dinner time when we crossed into Colorado, and once again, Caroline came to the rescue, directing us to Blackjack’s Saloon & Steak House in Trinidad.  Instead of taking a break after dinner, I was determined that we would position ourselves as close to Wyoming as I could get us. Two-hundred thirty miles further north, we finally called it quits in Longmont, Colorado, only about an hour from Wyoming.

Today’s drive was one for the record books at 948 miles or 1,525 kilometers, nearly the equivalent of driving all the way from Germany’s south to the far north and back again. So, why would I embark on such a difficult endurance test for my mother-in-law? Our trips need to be memorable, and grueling is just one aspect; there’s more to come.

MyPublisher – Fantastic!

Jutta Engelhardt in Phoenix, Arizona

We received the 58-page book we ordered from MyPublisher this morning at 10:00 and everyone who has seen it has loved it.

The most difficult part of the process was sorting 4,700 photos down to the 130 we finally used. Next, I thoroughly read the online help from MyPublisher and prepared the photos before placing them in order and desired size within the layout of the book using the free software MyPublisher provides.

Shortly before midnight on June 14th, I started the upload process of the 685MB file. The software used to lay out the book is also the same package that is used for ordering and uploading the book. After entering my credit card information and selecting the type, color, and quantity of the book, the upload begins. Turns out that the upload won’t be all 685MB as just before the file begins transferring, the files are resized based on the placement and size requirements as needed by the layout I chose, so the final upload was about 84MB.

Near 1:00 a.m. on June 15th, I received a confirmation e-mail that my account had been created, and then shortly after that, I received another e-mail that confirmed my order. The auto-responder e-mail informed me that the book would be finished within four business days.

Saturday, June 18th, while we were away, another e-mail was delivered, this one giving me my FedEx tracking number and stating that my order was finished and shipped. I checked with FedEx on Sunday, June 19th, after we arrived back home and had opened the e-mail. FedEx confirmed that they did, in fact, have the book and that it was already at the Phoenix sort facility, with expected delivery on Monday, June 20th, at 3:00 p.m. The book actually arrived at 10:00 a.m. today.

The book was lighter than expected. The delivery box was adequate to protect the book as long as it was shipped overnight with FedEx instead of with the Postal Service. Inside the box, the book is protected by a plastic envelope.

Opening the book and seeing the first image, it became obvious immediately that we were going to like this service. With a couple of page turns, nervousness gave way to honest excitement that our money was well spent. Sure, the colors and shaded areas ‘could’ have been better printed, but without doing a proofing page and this being a ‘one-off’ book publishing service, we find the overall quality and experience of using www.MyPublisher.com to be absolutely fantastic.

The cost for this type of 12 x 16 Deluxe Large Format Book with 20 pages printed on ten sheets of paper is $59.95. We printed 58 pages with a total of 130 images, with each additional side costing $2.99. The total cost for our book was $170 plus $20 for overnight FedEx shipping. We will use this service again.

Canyon de Chelly

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Disclaimer: This post was updated in October 2022, as the original only included 1 photo; most of the details were written back then, although a few things needed to be figured out.

Sure, it’s a cliche that perspective changes everything, but it was just yesterday that we were looking down in the canyon, and somehow, I missed that it was this wet down here. I can’t believe we are finally visiting Canyon de Chelly properly. Our tour was arranged through Thunderbird Lodge, where we were staying.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

We knew that we’d be visiting the White House Ruin today, but that there would be a number of cliff dwelling sites for us to see came as a surprise. I was just pondering what it is that I find so intriguing about southwest Native American historic sites compared to European ones, and I guess it comes down to the mystery of knowing so little. Allowing the imagination to wander instead of having concrete images and texts lends to this sense of curiosity, and then there’s the idea that Native Americans might know something about their ancestors that they’ve not shared, which only adds to the allure.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Sure, it’s just more of the stream we are driving through that’s not deep enough for any kind of boat, but I’m seriously enchanted by this red, green, and blue landscape being traveled through on the water.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

I’m starting to get the sense that Canyon de Chelly was a metropolis back in its day.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

If there was any doubt as to why we couldn’t bring our own cars back here, those have now been dispelled. We should also hope that no one ever has the idea of paving a way into this canyon.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Those are the pictographs and petroglyphs that the following site is named after.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

These are the Antelope House Ruins of the Ancestral Puebloan culture, formerly known as the Anasazi. I wish we could get closer to have a better look at the original plaster that still holds fast to the kiva wall in front of us, as though it would somehow convey its secrets to me if only I were inches from it.

Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Look at the figure on the right; I think Robert Crumb stole the idea for Mr. Natural from this panel!

Caroline Wise, Jutta Engelhardt, and John Wise at Canyon De Chelly National Monument in Chinle, Arizona

There had to be at least one selfie here to prove we were the ones on this epic journey, it also makes for a nice reminder of our time shared with Caroline’s mom.

Whitehouse Ruin at Canyon De Chelly on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

This is the White House Ruin in Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Arizona. The building in the back is the namesake of this particular location. Should I ever be so lucky to return here, I’ll bring my 70-200mm lens to try grabbing a better image of it as after I got home and zoomed into this image, I could see writings on the walls, and while I can guess that they are from people moving through the area about 100 years ago, I’d still like to see more details. Interestingly enough, I cannot find any close-up photos of that building.

White House Ruin in Canyon De Chelly National Monument in Arizona

White House Ruin, too, but a better overview of the complex; of note, this was about as close as we were allowed to get.

Caroline Wise flying a kite on the Navajo Reservation in Arizona

Every so often, Caroline remembers to bring a kite with us on the off chance she finds a windy enough place to take it airborne. We are still on the Navajo Reservation but are heading in the general direction that will take us home after our next stop.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

We are at the Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site in Ganado, Arizona.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

This guest hogan is not visitable unless you are invited as an artist in residency; what a crazy honor that would be.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

The old kitchen in the private home of John Lorenzo Hubbell who purchased the trading post out front back in 1878.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

And this is the dining room where the Hubbells would have taken their meals.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

One of the seven bedrooms in the Hubbell home.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

The portrait is of J.L. Hubbell, which seems to be how he was known then, and above on the ceiling are Navajo baskets hung upside down.

Hubbell Trading Post in Ganado, Arizona

And finally, the main entrance to the residence.