It had to go and be a perfect day, and we’ll be able to do all that we planned on which is mostly a good thing but then can also allow me to take too many photos. Now, that wouldn’t be a problem if the majority are headed to the trash bin, but if I have more than a few I want to post, then either I have a blog entry heavy on photos without much narrative, or I have to get creative on how I’ll work in some text on each image. With fifteen photos in this post, this will be tricky.
Our morning started with a bit of casual sightseeing as we headed over to the shoreline of Lake Powell and took a walk to spend some time waiting for our first scheduled adventure of the day. The reservation we had for the three of us almost didn’t happen due to some rains that left the tour company reluctant to take us out if we were the only ones going. Fortunately, a few others showed up, and they too, wanted the company to honor their reservations, so our adventure was on.
A short van ride over to the Glen Canyon Dam took us down to river level, where at the foot of the dam, we boarded this big pontoon boat for a leisurely “float” down the Colorado River to Lees Ferry, where the real white water adventures into the Grand Canyon begin. These more manageable few hours on the river without white water are more our speed today with the mother-in-law in tow. As this is our first encounter with the Colorado River from this perspective, we are all pretty excited.
The canyon walls tower over us and impose their enormity downward, making us feel especially small. It only takes seconds down here to convince us that if someone only had half a day to visit northern Arizona, this is one of the greatest excursions that could be had.
It wasn’t long after we launched that we pulled over to explore a few things next to shore. Proof that rain had recently fallen here was evident, but not so much that pools, mud, rushing flood channels, or waterfalls were encumbering our short river visit.
Two of the women in this photo were a delight to be with, the other two behind my wife and mother-in-law were intolerable, and more than a couple of times today, I half wished the trip had been canceled. Here we were in a place with no electricity, no phone service, and effectively no external noise, and yet these two women could NOT stop talking. Any time there were moments of silence, it was as if a panic button went off, triggering them to have to fill the air with cackles of nonsense. Just as they made tension for me, I’m sure I made some serious tension for them when I asked them rather curtly if they could curb the concert and allow the quiet not available elsewhere to exist for more than 10 seconds.
Our boatman and guide not only taught us something about the geology of the canyon, but she also showed us some of the petroglyphs that are etched into the tarnished walls by the Native Americans who have used this waterway over the years.
Sandy shores and green trees are probably the last things we might have thought we’d see down here. From the rim above, it looks like the canyon bottom is a desolate strip of desert with a lot of rocks. From the occasionally darkening sky, it appears we could be in for some weather; we keep our fingers crossed as we do not have rain jackets or umbrellas with us. We did bring a load of optimism, though.
The color of the river changes depending on where we are on it, how deep it is, and if we are next to a wall or in the center channel. I’m starting to better understand the appeal to those who take multi-week trips down the length of the Colorado that runs through the Grand Canyon proper.
Our float turns out to have engines capable of whisking us quickly through the slower lengths of the river that meanders through the canyon. While it’s kind of exhilarating to zip along the river, the noise from the engine distracts from fully enjoying this rare experience, though you wouldn’t guess that from looking at Caroline’s toothy grin. And yes, this is about all the excitement one is allowed to see in my mother-in-law’s face.
We only get to travel about 15 miles along this famous waterway before we pull over and leave the canyon, but with views like this, it becomes possible to imagine what the larger experience found downriver might be like. The luxury that instead of leaving the canyon, you get to set up camp, hike, sit by the campfire, and sleep in a tent is about as dreamy as it gets. Then, the reality of what it might cost sends a shiver down my spine. This little 4-hour float was about $250 for the three of us, so how much might a full week or two long trips with three meals a day cost?
With the sun emerging, the character of the place changes rapidly and the intrigue of a wall of rock blocking our progress brings yet more sense of wow to what we are seeing. The water is deeper here and subsequently darker, too.
With only four hours down here, it doesn’t matter that I could stay a week just on this stretch of river; we have to head for the exit. What a profoundly beautiful experience this has been that I’ll dream about for a long time to come.
A bus picked us up at Lees Ferry, driving right through the rainbow I’d ordered as an extra for the ride back to Page.
Back in Page, we picked up a late Jeep tour over to Antelope Canyon. I can tell you that proper camera equipment is required if you want to take some quality photos., but the walk into the canyon, even outside of optimal times when the sun is cutting right into the slot, is worth every penny.
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