Ferry over the North Atlantic to Nova Scotia

Bagel Cafe in St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada

When you hear of a restaurant named the Bagel Cafe, your expectations might not be very high, but my research while building out our travel plans suggested that this place was likely worth a visit. This photo does zero justice to the ambiance that smacks at your senses when you walk in from the street; it shows you but one angle of an immersive experience with a warmth that would shake anyone out of the blues that might accompany a winter day or a rainy morning such as we are having today.

Bagel Cafe in St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada

The specialty on offer at the Bagel Cafe is the touton. Similar to Navajo fry bread, the traditional touton (pronounced tau-ten) is fried bread dough but served with a portion of molasses. Caroline ordered the Cape Spear touton with a touton at the base, topped with molasses baked beans, a fish cake, a fried egg, and bacon. The ramekin contains molasses. I opted for the Harbour Main, a touton topped with a large piece of fried cod, eggs, hollandaise, and smoked salmon, a benedict like no other.

Before moving on with this day, Caroline pointed out that I hadn’t mentioned an important detail regarding our stay in St. John’s. This was the first hotel we’d stayed at where we had no contact with any staff. We received an email ahead of our arrival with a four-digit code to unlock the front door and enter the hotel, and our room key was taped to our door in an envelope. From reading the hotel’s instructions, we understood that we’d have to request housekeeping to make up our room or change towels, so we didn’t bother putting a “don’t disturb” sign on the door handle. Well, last night, when we came back in for our second-night stay, we found that someone had entered our room, started to make things up until they got to my CPAP, thought better of shifting anything, and abandoned the attempt, leaving us a printed note that they had quit due to personal items in the way. In any case, the location was perfect, and there was plenty of free parking on the street, though we opted to park in the garage across the street, thinking it might be more secure. On subsequent entries to the hotel, the peculiar smells I mentioned yesterday were not encountered again. Should we visit St. John’s again, we’ll certainly book another stay there.

Roadside in Kelligrews, Newfoundland, Canada

We left the city in the rain and were intent on getting to our next destination as we felt pressed for time. We had driven through almost the entire town of Kelligrews when we felt compelled to turn around to check out these lawn and porch ornaments. Looking at them now, we should have bought the fisherman holding his catch, and if I had one suggestion for the artist, please add a figure of the extinct great auk that used to live in Newfoundland. Sadly, these flightless birds that were first called “penguins” by Richard Hakluyt in 1588 suffered gravely from the trust of humans, who threw them into boiling cauldrons to render their oil for lighting. Curiously, the great auk (Pinguinus impennis) is not at all related to the flightless diving birds of (mostly) the southern hemisphere that we call penguins nowadays. The explorers who named those birds penguins did so due to their visual similarity to the great auks, which are related to puffins, murres, and guillemots.

Brigus, Newfoundland, Canada

Our original travel plans had three destinations in the itinerary, but due to the weather and our anxiety about reaching important junctures that can dramatically affect outcomes, we were inclined to cut two of those stops from today’s itinerary. We were about to drive right by Brigus, which was supposed to be our first stop, before continuing to Harbour Grace, but at the last second, I decided to give the place a few minutes. [We were also in desperate need of “facilities” – Caroline] This small village near the southern end of the Bay de Verde Peninsula was settled in the early 1600s and is one of the oldest European settlements on Newfoundland. Ye Olde Stone Barn is a significant historical monument due to its colonial heritage and the fact that it was built with stone, while many buildings were built with wood.

Brigus, Newfoundland, Canada

You are looking through the hand-carved Brigus Tunnel, completed in 1860, as a means for fishermen and merchants to easily access the waterfront. Due to the rain, we double-parked in the street to grab a couple of photos and missed taking in the view of what was on the other end of the tunnel—next time.

Brigus, Newfoundland, Canada

While this might look like the waterfront, it is, in fact, Brigus Harbour.

Salt Cod at Marshall's Cornerstop in South River, Newfoundland, Canada

It’s a running joke by now, but we’ll stop at any gas station or ice cream stand advertising soft serve. We might have had breakfast barely ninety minutes ago, but this being the day this vacation starts to wind down, there’s an urgency to indulge in all the ice cream that can be reasonably or unreasonably consumed. It was the promise of 24 flavors of soft serve that brought us to Marshall’s Cornerstop and Fish Market in South River, and while soft serve was skipped for a scoop of maple walnut ice cream that Caroline had fallen in love with, we were also able to leave with a package each of salt cod and pork scrunchions. With our turn north at Marshall’s, we are now on the Baccalieu Trail; how appropriate, huh? If you don’t see the connection, the trail is named after Baccalieu Island, which lies farther north, off the peninsula’s tip. The word Baccalieu hints at the region’s role in the salt cod trade because it was likely used by the French to refer to dried salt cod. Various spellings exist in other languages, such as bacalao in Spanish, bacalhau in Portuguese, or bakailo in Basque. Now you know.

Dildo, Newfoundland, Canada

In Canada, we’ve learned to take these warnings about potholes ahead seriously because they are not exaggerations (unlike the signs warning you of wildlife in the area when none is to be found). On the contrary, there are potholes almost everywhere, so when there’s a sign, it should be your wake-up call that there’s something ahead more akin to a chasm that will destroy wheels, alignment, and your peace of mind as you are shaken right out of your seat. The same goes for signs alerting drivers to bumps ahead. If you fail to heed the warning, your car may become airborne.

Caroline Wise in Dildo, Newfoundland, Canada

What’s the first thing you do in Dildo? For us, it was a stop at this Little Free Library, where Caroline snagged a copy of Sag Harbor by Colson Whitehead, and we got our first photo of a Canadian flag. If you think this is an oddly framed image, it had everything to do with including the trashcan on the right in the picture with my wife, because, Dildo! Let me get this out of the way right now; it feels cheap to aim for the obvious and throw innuendos about the town name around, though just under the surface of this 61-year-old man is his 14-year-old self clamoring to put on a full demonstration of his ability to plumb the depths of immaturity for the sake of sharing some snark, attempting to be witty, or maybe simply dealing with that I actually am that idiot who can take a funny name too far.

Dildo, Newfoundland, Canada

Our relationship with Dildo goes back several years to when an old friend of ours, Ian Gordon, shared a photo of himself next to the Dildo sign in 2010. Not only did I chuckle, but who wouldn’t, especially when one knows the hint of truth behind what’s being alluded to in the image? Ever since that laugh more than a decade ago, I’ve wanted to stand in the same spot and take our selfies, but try as we might, it appears that the road sign pointing to Dildo is gone, likely a victim of multiple thefts similar to that famous Fucking sign in Austria. While you may jump to the conclusion this is a gimmicky name meant to whip up the prurient interests of tourists, you should consider that at one time, dildos were oar pegs in dories, the pivot points where the oars rested while rowing, and the French name for a nearby island once inhabited by the Beothuk Indigenous people was De l’île de l’eau. Sound that name out a couple of times, pronounced, “deh leel deh loh,” and maybe you can start to hear “dildo,” too. [Maybe to make up for the loss of that famous road sign, the town now has a giant “Dildo” sign on this mountainside at the end of the peninsula. – Caroline]

Dildo, Newfoundland, Canada

After our lunch with an appetizer in the form of a shared pot of mussels steamed in Dildo beer, we asked our server if she knew what pickled pork riblets were used for. We’d seen them at another gas station up the road, but we had no idea what kind of dish they were for. “Oh, Jiggs Dinner,” was her enthusiastic response. She explained that this is a traditional Sunday meal in Newfoundland and encouraged us to pick up some riblets to make our own Jiggs Dinner. Just up the road at the Pitcher’s Gas Station, Take-out, & Bakery in New Harbour, we bought a bucket of salted pork riblets, hoping they’d be allowed to enter the United States upon our return. [Spoiler alert: they were – Caroline] Using salted beef or pork, the name of this dish was inspired by an early 20th-century comic strip called Bringing Up Father, where the character named Jiggs indulged in a Sunday feast using salt meat, turnips, carrots, cabbage, potatoes, and something called pease pudding, which is yellow peas cooked in a cheesecloth bag immersed in the pot with the rest of the ingredients.

Update: on Sunday, October 13th, after soaking the riblets overnight, Caroline and I enjoyed our first encounter with Jiggs Dinner and fell in love with the dish. She already found information about a Thanksgiving variation of Jiggs that includes turkey. I owe Ian a lot of gratitude for hamming it up under the Dildo sign because if not for him, we may not have passed through the area and spotted the salt meat that triggered our curiosity and given us a tangible experience that brings us back to Newfoundland via a Sunday meal. 

Mary Steele's Camper Van in Argentia, Newfoundland, Canada

Stick your nose into other people’s business, and sometimes you come back a better person for it. Today, we met Mary Steele, obviously from Texas, who at age 75 is a van-life person living out of an old Honda Element her son converted for her. She’s been traveling the backroads of a wide swathe of North America with her friend Becky for months. Sadly, Becky is not alive for the tour and is instead finding herself distributed in small amounts here, there, and everywhere that Mary feels inspired to offer her old friend a resting place she believes Becky would have found to be beautiful. We talked with Mary for a good half-hour in Argentia, Newfoundland, while waiting to board our ferry to North Sydney, Nova Scotia, and were absolutely inspired by her tenacity to take the road trip the two of them had looked forward to taking together before the untimely passing of her friend.

Deluxe cabin on the Ala'suinu Ferry in Argentia, Newfoundland, Canada

We are not only aboard our ferry, the Ala’suinu, but have checked into our deluxe cabin with a queen bed, private toilet, and shower. We are delighted and incredulous that we’ll be traveling in such luxury because not too long ago, we’d have crashed in the unassigned passenger seats available on a first-come, first-served basis.

Ala'suinu Ferry in Argentia, Newfoundland, Canada

We departed Newfoundland under cloudy skies but not cloudy memories or experiences that weren’t full of joy. It was 5:00 p.m. when we pulled out of port, but I had no time to linger on deck watching the land fade from view because I was intent on catching up with what writing I could get done, considering how far I’d fallen behind due to these full days of relentless explorations.

Labradorite Pendant purchased onboard the Ala'suinu Ferry in Argentia, Newfoundland, Canada

There were not many souvenirs collected on this trip. Well, there was that hoody Caroline bought yesterday at Mistaken Point, the yarn collected along the way, potato sacks and another hoody from Prince Edward Island, and maybe something or other from somewhere else, but while she was out investigating the ferry, she dipped into the gift shop and found this pendant made of Labradorite that caught her eye. She returned to where I was writing to drag me over to see if it was as nice as she thought it was (as if that really mattered). Needless to say, she’s now the owner of this pendant, and if I know her as well as I think I do, she’ll smile just as she was when putting it on for the first time every subsequent time she looks down at it while wearing it in the future.

Looking at the North Atlantic Ocean from the Ala'suinu Ferry out of Argentia, Newfoundland, Canada

And that was Newfoundland.

Mistaken Point – Newfoundland

Cape Spear, Newfoundland, Canada

Last night, on our drive to St. John’s, we were moving in and out of rain showers, and while it wasn’t snowing, I wasn’t enjoying anything about it. After getting into the biggest city in Newfoundland, we found parking in a garage across the street from our hotel and were walking in shortly before 10:00. The smell of weed, fried food from the restaurant downstairs, and a hint of cat pee greeted us on our walk up the leaning stairs making for a strange transition from small towns to what is still a small big-city with a population of only about 110,000 inhabitants. When we woke, it was still raining; once back on the street, it had slowed to a light rain, though it was enough that I wanted to skip our planned stop for a hot breakfast and instead rely on the granola we were traveling with.

Cape Spear Lighthouse, Newfoundland, Canada

First things first, meaning that the Cape Spear Lighthouse, only ten miles away, will earn a visit. The rain had paused, but we could be grateful for the lingering heavy clouds. I can’t imagine photographing this lighthouse in any more dramatic setting than the one we witnessed this morning.

Cape Spear Historic Lighthouse, Newfoundland, Canada

Add another lighthouse to the list of places to come back to. This older lighthouse at the same site was put into operation in 1836 and was still closed while we were visiting this national historic site. I’d wager that should we make that return visit to Newfoundland, which I’ve been suggesting is likely to happen, it will involve flying directly into St. John’s to maximize our time out here. I’ve been reading more about St. John’s as I was learning the story of the Cape Spear Lighthouse, and it became obvious that we shouldn’t have only used the city for lodging; on our subsequent visit to the island, we should not only explore one of the earliest European settlements in all of North America but also take the time to tour the oldest lighthouse in all of North America.

Cape Spear Lighthouse, Newfoundland, Canada

You might notice that this photo of the modern lighthouse is similar to the other shot. Caroline and I were unable to agree on which one was nicer. Her vote was for the first one, while mine was for this photo, which is obviously far superior.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Cape Spear, Newfoundland, Canada

I wonder if anyone has ever recognized that Caroline and I are almost the same height. If you know us, you should have noticed that that’s not true and that I tower a solid five or six inches (12.5 to 15cm) over her. So what’s going on? The truth is, I scootch down to her height, not only so we can stand cheek to cheek, allowing our smiles to be on the same level, but this affords me a better grip on her backside, which is often the motivation she requires to offer a heartier smile for the camera. Now you know one of our secrets I’ve never shared before, and it all happened at the Easternmost Point of Canada, the kind of significant place one should share such things.

Cape Spear Battery, Newfoundland, Canada

World War II is a distant memory for most, but this battery in ruin is one of the visual reminders that fear of invasion was everywhere, even on the coasts of North America. I wonder how much of my sense of the history of this site is informed by the war footage and subsequent movies focused on war from that era and how the 20 or so men in the crew would be working the turret, aiming, arming, and calculating the trajectory of the projectile? Do others think about how much their memories are informed by specific media exposure? I’ve seen elephants and the Alps of Italy, yet I fail to envision Hannibal leading a herd of nearly 40 elephants over the mountains in Southern Europe for an attack on Rome. Maybe that movie hasn’t been made, or I missed it?

View from Irish Loop Coffee House Witless Bay, Newfoundland, Canada

This is the view of Witless Bay in the small town of the same name, as seen from the Irish Loop Coffee House that sits just off the Irish Loop, which travels around the southern portion of the Avalon Peninsula. At a minimum, we would grab a couple of coffees until I asked if they could whip us a quick breakfast because we were trying to make an appointment further south and had precious little time to spare; they obliged us. While breakfast was a simple affair of eggs, bacon, potatoes, toast, and coffee, it was had while sitting at a window, offering us this view right here. Enjoying the experience and intrigued by some lunch items written on a nearby chalkboard, we ordered two brie, bacon, and apple sandwiches on croissants for lunch out on our trail later. At the counter, about to pay for everything, the oat cakes were talking to us, so a couple of those went with us. Little did we know, we should have taken them all. Thinking about them again, I’ve reached out to Judy, the owner, hoping to score the recipe.

Caroline Wise at the post office in Ferryland, Newfoundland, Canada

Waiting until nearly the last minute to have postcards delivered from Canada to family in Germany, we finally remembered to pull over at a post office to send them off. Postmarked from Ferryland, Newfoundland, the cards Caroline wrote yesterday at the Quintal Cafe are about to start the long journey to Europe, meaning she’ll likely get back to Phoenix before any of these reach those lands across the Atlantic Ocean.

Renews, Newfoundland, Canada

Comfortable with the time it took to reach the south coast, we felt we could afford a couple more stops along the way. This one was at the Renews River flowing to the Atlantic Ocean.

Near Chance Cove Provincial Park, Newfoundland, Canada

There’s not a lot to be found at the Chance Cove Provincial Park other than a pit toilet, a parking lot, and a trail to the sea, not that we saw any of those things, but that’s what I learned after looking for some relevant information that might allow me to share a thing or two. Then, there is everything else not listed on the park’s website, such as the environmental elements that would naturally be contained within these 5,110 acres (2,068 hectares) of land that were important enough to be designated as a provincial park.

Near Chance Cove Provincial Park, Newfoundland, Canada

Well, this isn’t nothing: near the provincial park, a crumbling old bridge from the previous road that would have been in use a long time ago, judging by the state of it.

Eastern Hyper-Oceanic Barrens, Newfoundland, Canada

It was right about here that we first learned of the Eastern Hyper-Oceanic Barrens, though I mentioned them in yesterday’s post. Notice the lack of trees; trees attempting to grow here will be stunted as the environment is not conducive to hardy plant growth. We are likely looking at a carpet of heath moss, which covers much of the barrens. As Europeans began settling in Newfoundland, these areas always had small populations because, at best, farming poor soils was a tough slog. Hence, the people of this corner of Canada still enjoy a special meal, known as Jiggs Dinner, that relies on turnips, carrots, and potatoes, but more about that in tomorrow’s post.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

We arrived at the Edge of Avalon Interpretation Centre in Portugal Cove South with plenty of time before our scheduled 12:30 tour of Mistaken Point, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We booked our two spots on this rare tour back in May, only to learn that through a computer snafu, our reservations weren’t to be found in their computer system. After showing the guide our email confirmation, it turned out that she was the person I had been communicating with back in May. She explained that this wasn’t the first time it’s happened and that it wasn’t a problem here near the end of the season. Only 3,000 people are allowed to visit Mistaken Point annually, and I thought we were incredibly fortunate to be part of that limited number. To get out to our trailhead, we formed a convoy of vehicles to drive the nearly ten miles out to a ranger station where we would be guided by two people, ensuring that none of us strayed or tried to collect souvenirs.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

If you didn’t notice it in the previous two photos, the heavy cloud cover of the first part of the day had given way to glorious blue skies. Walking the well-defined trail to Mistaken Point, our guides pointed out various features and history of the area. Not only were we invited to sample partridgeberries and Swedish bunchberries (also known as Cornelian cherries), but we also tried small black berries called crowberries. A shallow depression in the soil allowed for the accumulation of soil and facilitated this small stand of trees to take root. This small pocket of balsam fir, known as a tuckamore, is at full maturity, yet I can look over the tops; their short stature indicates the impact of the hostile environment on the barrens’ flora.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

It was not obvious, in the least, to my untrained senses, but this hillside and its rock cover are not here together by coincidence. While the slope of the hill is natural, the rocks were collected elsewhere and used to cover the area by early inhabitants who used them to dry fish on.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

Taking any of the photos I’ve managed to capture since we got on the trail has been a bit of a race, as our guides are trying to keep us moving to maximize our time at our destination. While we know it is a fossil site, beyond that, we have no idea what we will be seeing today, as we avoided learning more until this day when we’d experience it with our own senses. Once Caroline learned that this was a USESCO site, that’s all that mattered as I made our reservations; everything else was an unfolding surprise, especially the weather.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

This is Watern Bay and the last segment of our hike to the mysteries that await us at Mistaken Point.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

Okay, just one more corner where half of us are lingering while the other group readies themselves for visiting the site.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

There it is, the slab of rock we are so excitedly waiting to visit for ourselves, the rock that has earned the UNESCO World Heritage designation. Cynthia, one of the guides, is with her group explaining things I’m sure we’ll hear from Kara, the other guide. Meanwhile, we’ve moved into a small staging area where, in accordance with our agreement prior to being allowed to sign up for the tour, we are doffing our shoes as we are only allowed to walk on the rock wearing socks to protect the fossils.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

We are on the fossil surface, and while you may not see any of them from this angle, when you are here in person, they are so numerous that you’ll be at a loss to figure out just what you should be looking at. Some of the backstory about this site: this area was part of the Iapetus Ocean, which I first mentioned on our first full day in Newfoundland, so we are exploring a part of the earth’s history from about 560 million years ago, known as the Ediacaran era. The fossils here are not plants, though calling them animals might not be exactly correct either, but they were organisms. There are no known descendants of these early life forms. According to scientific data, most everything from the Ediacaran was extinct before the Cambrian Explosion, which began about 541 million years ago. As for these specimens that once lived on the floor of an ocean that disappeared, they were killed off and buried under the ash of a volcanic eruption, which is why they were preserved as fossil impressions.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

This was when and where words began to fail me. When Kara told us the names of these fossils, including their peculiar, not very memorable names, they had no touch points in my mind to connect with. We can only look at them and try to relate them to something else we’ve seen in nature, but that would be plants, certainly not animals. That this is likely a Bradgatia doesn’t say much, and without evolutionary ancestors who inherited some characteristics, what are we supposed to make of such things?

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

Maybe being in awe of such things is enough and is a lesson in humility about our limited abilities as the supposed intelligent humans we so desperately want to intimate. I say this because here’s an ancient early life form I cannot truly comprehend, but I’m typically delusional enough to believe that if I saw an alien, angel, or god, I’d find a meaningful way to communicate it. While it is true that a fossil is not an entity to be communicated with, I stumble trying to convey something relevant about an impression locked in stone. Thinking about this, if I were buried in ash from a volcanic eruption where I sit writing this, what would a future ancestor 500 million years from now understand about the impressions I left in the rocks?

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

For everything that we can easily see, such as what appears to me to resemble the double helix of DNA, how many other things were of such small size or fragility of makeup that they remain unseen to untrained eyes?

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

As far as I can determine, Mistaken Point is one of eight locations on our planet where Ediacaran age fossils have been found, but this spot on the southern end of the Avalon Peninsula jutting into the Atlantic Ocean is the best example of such fossils due to that volcanic eruption that buried them. Now, here we are today, about a dozen of us who, only between mid-May and mid-October, are allowed to walk on an ancient seabed to see the record of what lived here. It’s difficult to be here and not be overwhelmed by the magnitude of things.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

While the giant alien Charniodiscus dominates the photo, there are faint impressions of at least eight other fossils, or I’m suffering from the fossil version of pareidolia.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

Like Mt. Vesuvius, which buried Pompeii nearly 2,000 years ago, everything on the seafloor that was vibrantly alive minutes before started to find itself buried under a rain of ash. Half a billion years later, I’m trying to wrap my head around this gargantuan leap in time while trying to decipher impressions that, in some instances, appear as if they were pressed into mud only recently. Nothing stops us from touching the fossils; we can walk on them because there is no way to avoid them. The only reason I’m not touching them and trying to avoid stepping on a single one is because of how rare they feel, and I don’t want to add to the inevitable erosion that is yet to come and has been happening for thousands of years already. To me, these are sacrosanct artworks that deserve our respect.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

Pardon my heavy detour, but these experiences of walking on the Earth’s mantle at Tablelands on the otherside of the island, exploring ancient thrombolites at Flowers Cove, and now visiting these Ediacaran fossils that once inhabited the seafloor of the Iapetus Ocean mixed with my knowledge of the mind-boggling depth of glacial ice that buried all of this has me thinking even more about the bizarre sequence of events and the astonishing history that had to precede everything for me to have this experience. Then, thinking about history, glaciers, oceans, and our interpretation of fossils, I can’t help but consider that during the Glacial Maximum of the last ice age, approximately 26,500 to 19,000 years ago, sea levels were 390 to 425 feet (120 to 130 meters) below current levels. I can only imagine what we could explore if those sea levels were still so low, for example, the settlements that might have existed on the Bering Land Bridge between Russia and North America or the Doggerland Land Bridge between the U.K. and Europe. How did the flooding of those formerly habitable areas as glaciers were retreating contribute to the many flood myths within humanity? Anyway, this tangent has gone way off track, though it’s hard to contain my imagination regarding the effects of shifting sands, seas, and land masses, along with cultural and knowledge awareness to inform and enlighten our perspective of the world.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

This extinct organism, Fractofusus, was one of the earliest known animals. As I said moments ago, some of the fossils look like they fell into the mud only recently; this is one of them. Reading more about it, I learned that this creature represents an enigma to science. In some way, it is an alien because its body type is unlike any other plant or animal we’ve ever discovered. Most animals, such as humans, have what is known as bilateral symmetry, while things like starfish have radial symmetry, and jellyfish have spherical symmetry. Fractofusus doesn’t exhibit symmetry, making it nearly impossible to understand its body plan. Maybe Mistaken Point should be renamed Mystery Point.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

The round part of these Charniodiscus creatures is believed to have been a holdfast, that part of their body that anchored them to the seafloor.

Caroline Wise at Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

Again, here we were without a banana to compare the relative size of the things we were looking at. Graciously, Caroline acted as a stand-in for one of these yellow-skinned tropical fruits. She’s generous in that way.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

I am so happy that I ran out of shareable images of fossils and that we are now on our way out of the protected ecological reserve.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

With that heavy lifting finished, it’s time for a break and picking more berries. When I mentioned the partridgeberries, Swedish bunchberries, and crowberries, I intentionally left out the blueberries because I knew this photo was way down here and that I’d be writing something or other about them. Now that I’m running into writer’s fatigue, I want to gloss over anything I might have wanted to say other than that they were yummy. [A perfect dessert after we had finished our sandwiches from the Irish Loop Coffee House – Caroline]

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

Trails, paths, and roads crisscross our planet, going in every direction to take us to all corners of our earth, but for some of us, there’s a yearning to know what exists between those map points. This type of route finding is known as interstitial or free-range exploration, and while neither Caroline nor I have the requisite skills for that type of adventure, it is the driving force of that desire that brings us to places such as this.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

In Nova Scotia, at the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and again at Terra Nova National Park here in Newfoundland, we visited fens that support sphagnum moss. A fen is like a bog but with a steady water source. A different type of moss also exists in the barrens; it is called heath moss or woolly fringe moss and is part of the blanket and plateau bogs ecosystem. When you look at satellite images of this area, or you are flying over southeast Labrador towards the coastal region, there’s a good chance that many of the ponds being seen are from the plateau bogs that dot the landscape. Blanket bogs form over hills and valleys, while plateau bogs are more common in coastal areas.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

I have what’s likely an impossible dream: maybe if I learn more about the planet, I might gather a minor understanding of how it all fits together and is interconnected.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

In that sense, my blog posts and research are similar to this cairn. While passing us on the unpaved section of the drive back to the visitor center, our guides explained that it was placed here by the early inhabitants as a sign that this was a good area to find bakeapple, a.k.a. cloudberries. Blog posts are my cairns to remind Caroline and me of what was where and what we discovered and shared.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

On our drive into the reserve earlier, neither of us spotted this cascade spilling out of the landscape, which is indicative of that common human trait of being overwhelmed by the totality of what is being absorbed to miss many of the obvious details only seen at second glance.

Mistaken Point UNESCO World Heritage Site, Newfoundland, Canada

Yep, we missed this reflective pond, too. Maybe we had been too focused on the car ahead or were shocked by the sky clearing for our arrival at Mistaken Point.

Eastern Hyper-Oceanic Barrens, Newfoundland, Canada

This was our view north after leaving the south coast. It appears we are heading back into the clouds.

Eastern Hyper-Oceanic Barrens, Newfoundland, Canada

We are absolutely enchanted by this landscape that, for vast stretches, doesn’t appear to have anything growing on it taller than ankle height.

Sunset in New Bridge on the Irish Loop Trail in Newfoundland, Canada

It must have been shortly before 7:00 when we reached New Bridge and this view of the setting sun. After hitting some stretches of foggy road but no rain, we were close to pulling into St. John’s when we noticed that we had reservations at 8:00 for dinner at a place around the corner from our hotel. I have no recollection of what we dined on. It wouldn’t matter anyway; how can any of that compare to what our senses feasted on all day long?

Heading to St. John’s, Newfoundland

Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

This kind of morning is only found on vacation, well outside a typical day’s routine. On almost any other day, we don’t wake with the idea that we’ll take a coastal drive to the uppermost point of a spit of land to visit a lighthouse, walk along the sea, or find ourselves on an island, for that matter. Today, we woke in a bed that was not our own, though we got in the car that was ours, and then we did our best to reach the lighthouse. Finding a place on the map is easy, interpreting the series of turns to get there presents no difficulty navigating, and sharing excitement about where we are going requires no effort, but getting there, even if it’s only four miles away, is the hard part. When a bleached, rough-hewn post-and-rail fence stands in grasses before a small bay with an idyllic view of red, white, and yellow houses across the way (exactly what you think a seaside village should look like), you must stop, enjoy the scenery, and celebrate that this is the reality of a vacation that you were bargaining for.

Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

A photograph is an easy thing to see; they are so easily transmittable and shared. What’s not so easy is seeing a horse in the morning light with its mane, tail, head, and legs framed in golden hues by a molten gold sun and sky with sea stacks jutting out of the ocean in the distance. For that, you must be ready to see more, change your plan, leap from the car, find the aperture that won’t turn the horse into a silhouette, frame things the best you can, hope you don’t spook the horse into going somewhere else, pray that focus is tight, and start snapping the shutter. Maybe you wanted the horse to present a better profile, or if it would only approach you, the perfect image could have been had, but those moments are elusive and driven by flights of fantasy. Next time, the stars might align in a configuration I could have never imagined, and the zenith of my skills will finally find their outlet where I can feel like I’ve gained the experience to create a proper work of art. Until then, I don my well-worn hat of the amateur and am grateful for another opportunity to practice.

Cape Bonavista Lighthouse, Newfoundland, Canada

Our first glimpse of the Cape Bonavista Lighthouse Provincial Historic Site.

Fox at Cape Bonavista Lighthouse, Newfoundland, Canada

This beautiful fox will not be the only one we see out on this peninsula this morning, and while I initially thought it was begging for food, I quickly changed my mind, deciding it was simply curious about checking me out. I’ll admit that after seeing the other foxes yesterday, I tried offering them a morsel. Yes, I know that’s wrong, but they weren’t interested in the least, and I figured it would be the same situation here, not that I tested it. I can’t say that their approach was without apprehension on my part, as the somewhat aggressive motion toward me had me thinking about rabies or that they were angry about our proximity and about to fend us off. Instead, as long as I made no swift motions, they would approach, look at me, take a sniff from a safe distance, and return to the hunt. It makes sense that they cannot lose their hunting sense and rely on humans to throw them snacks as they have a long season of needing to fend for themselves when visitors are few and far between. Watching the foxes hunt was fascinating as it seemed obvious they were watching with their ears, following the movements of tiny rodents in the underbrush. Without being able to catch sight of them, when the catch was in the right spot, the fox would quickly bury its head deep in the bushes (maybe I should say goowiddy instead) to snatch breakfast from its hiding place.

Cape Bonavista Lighthouse, Newfoundland, Canada

Add one more reason for our inevitable return to Newfoundland: this old lighthouse from 1843 was not yet open, which is a shame as the tower is visitable. Why would one want to climb the stone tower? The reason is obvious: the same seal oil-fueled catoptric light used back in the 1800s is still up there, and that’s something neither Caroline nor I have ever seen.

Caroline Wise at Cape Bonavista Lighthouse, Newfoundland, Canada

For a minute, maybe less, I paid attention to Caroline bringing out Happy McKiteFace for a flight under the shadow of the lighthouse, but once I had an adequate photo, I turned my attention back to the foxes who were working the landscape hunting for food.

Cape Bonavista Lighthouse, Newfoundland, Canada

It is the wrong time of year to be here to see the local puffin colony that summers on a nearby rock or the whales that pass the point, and it is far too late in the season to witness icebergs floating by, lending the name Iceberg Alley to this northeast coast of Newfoundland. But it is the right season to see other delightful sights, such as the smile on Caroline’s face when I circle back to her flying her kite.

Near the Dungeon Provincial Park in Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

If the lighthouse was Reason # 9 for our return to Newfoundland, I’ve just uncovered Reason #10, and it’s right here, though we didn’t understand where “right here” was when we were right here. Not only is this corner of the island around Bonavista part of the Eastern Hyper-Oceanic Barrens ecoregion, but we were also on our way to the Dungeon Provincial Park, part of the Discovery UNESCO Global Geopark. Leaving Arizona weeks ago, I knew nothing about any of this. A shame, though, with such an ambitious itinerary to take in so many various points in the Maritimes, certain knowledge of these facts likely couldn’t have changed our plans, though our explorations might have been better informed.

Near the Dungeon Provincial Park in Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

These photos are from the Dungeon area, though I’m not sharing a photo of that yet as it was cast in deep shadow during this visit. You will have to wait until after our next hike when, with a better position of the sun, we return to the Dungeon for a better look. First, though, what is the Eastern Hyper-Oceanic Barrens ecoregion, you ask? Due to the area being exposed to the harsh North Atlantic Ocean with the combined influence of the cold Labrador Current and the warm Gulf Stream, the sloping, rocky peninsula experiences a unique climate with high precipitation, strong winds, and cool temperatures. This accounts for the almost treeless, nearly barren landscape dominated by low-growing shrubs, grasses, and mosses. That’s a quick explanation describing the area, and then there’s the geology that plays a large role, which is where the designation of Discovery UNESCO Global Geopark comes into play. A Geopark exemplifies a geological area of significance while also noting the cultural and historical importance of the region.

Chimney Rock UNESCO Geo Site in Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

The Dungeon was the first Geopark Caroline spotted on the map; another was nearby at Spillars Cove on the Cable John Cove Klondike Trail. It is called the Chimney. Later, we’ll stumble upon a third Geopark site, more of that when we get there. It turns out that there are ten sites in total, meaning we’ll have missed seven of them. But I need to back up. After our early visit to the Dungeon, we needed to head back into town because we’d agreed with our host that they’d drop off breakfast and coffee at our front door at 8:00. Following that, we packed up our things in the car and drove to the parking lot at the Chimney, or so we thought. With other cars parked at what looked like a trailhead and other people walking over the hillside, we figured this was the place. When our paths crossed, the other hikers on the way back to their car said that the Chimney had been their objective, but they had trouble finding the trail. Our confidence assured us that we knew what we were doing and their fate would not be ours.

Chimney Rock UNESCO Geo Site in Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

Then, here we were, not at a crossroads but at an impasse, though not exactly that either, as we thought we could make out the faint hints of places others had walked, so we ventured forth.

Caroline Wise at Chimney Rock UNESCO Geo Site in Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

Maybe Chimney Rock is down one of these crevasses or over a cliff? Nope, nothing that looks remotely like a chimney.

Chimney Rock UNESCO Geo Site in Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

Maybe this is it? No way, a sea stack, maybe, but who cares? Our hike across the outcropping has been terrific, so who cares if we miss the main feature? It’s got to be out here somewhere, and it’s not like we can get lost, even if we have to retrace our footsteps over the boreal tundra.

Chimney Rock UNESCO Geo Site in Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

After maybe a half-hour of wandering the cliffsides, making impressions of new trails, we finally spotted the actual trail, which was confirmed to us when we saw a couple of hikers walking along. I yelled over to them, standing seemingly too close to a cliff for comfort, asking if we were on the right trail for the Chimney. That couple assured us we were now on the trail and said we should come over. I answered back, “It looks kind of scary to someone afraid of heights,” to which the woman replied, and I quote, “Oh, then you’ll poop your pants over here, come on!” This funny couple from British Columbia, Canada, seemed surprised when we pointed out which way we had come from, informing us that we must have been in the overflow parking area. The woman told us that this trail was one of her favorites in all of Newfoundland and that the best overlook of the Chimney was to our right, which was also the way back to the trailhead.

Caroline Wise and John Wise at Chimney Rock UNESCO Geo Site in Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

Good thing that we weren’t lost forever because who wants to read about two old people wandering the wilds of Newfoundland without water, food, sunblock, or common sense, with headlines exclaiming, “Tragedy befalls unprepared Arizona couple who left the trail and suffered a bitter end.” Elated, we stopped to take a selfie, proving that we were still alive on the ground next to the sea instead of some celestial cloud-like place in heaven. We now felt like professionals, intrepid explorers of the world, able to bushwhack our way back to civilization, or was that shrubwhacking? In any case, we kept our wits about ourselves and survived the ordeal to tell the tale.

Chimney Rock UNESCO Geo Site in Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

Yep, that’s our trail, mere inches away from a death crack that takes visitors straight to a watery hell if they don’t wedge themselves in the narrow gap where they can starve to death instead of falling to their demise.

Chimney Rock UNESCO Geo Site in Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

By now, we thought that what is considered the Chimney somehow eluded our attempt to find it. Still, we are happy to have been here.

Chimney Rock UNESCO Geo Site in Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

We are resigned to make our way back to the car if only we could stop investigating every corner.

Chimney Rock UNESCO Geo Site in Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

Hey Caroline, “Maybe those signs over there…” Oh, look here, I think we found the Chimney. Had we found that other parking lot, I think our visit might have been finished in about 15 minutes instead of the hour we were out stumbling across a landscape in search of this elusive rock column that, in actuality, is quite easy, nee, impossible to miss.

Dungeon Provincial Park in Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

Not too far away, another gravel road brought us back to the Dungeon, the remains of an ancient sea cave that collapsed, creating this massive hole with dragon’s eyes. If you look to the right, an idiot banana dressed in human clothes is out walking on a trail that lets batshit crazy visitors circumnavigate the top of the Dungeon; my sphincter bristles in quivering fear simply writing this.

Bonavista, Newfoundland, Canada

Maybe you are thinking, “No way, this is too quaintly beautiful to be real,” I’d almost have to agree if it weren’t for the fact we were about to have lunch here. But this being us, nothing is as straightforward as it might seem; before arriving here at the Quintal Cafe, the open sign for the Sweet Rock Ice Cream Shop snagged Caroline’s attention like a loon catching sight of a favorite fish. I didn’t know it was snack time, and it certainly wasn’t lunchtime, but after talking with the guy in the shop for over a half hour, lunch started seeming like an option we should consider. Asking for his advice, he told us the best sandwiches in town were to be had at this cafe next door to the Boreal Diner, where we ate last night. As for the pre-lunch partridgeberry cheesecake ice cream, it was so-so. According to Caroline, there were not enough partridgeberries.

Not having put a dent in Caroline’s appetite, we pulled up to Quintal and quickly determined what we’d order. Had we an inkling of how ginormous lunch would be, we’d have shared something. Caroline wanted the fishcakes, and I opted for the turkey club sandwich, which the ice cream vendor had extolled as a great bargain and equally amazing. Oh My God, my dinosaur-satisfying sandwich was so big that half of it was packed up and put in the ice chest for some future meal should we again find ourselves in the wilds facing starvation. While I would have loved nothing more than to sit here, trying to catch up in some small way with the week of writing I was behind with, we needed to continue down the road under these beautiful skies of finding new things.

Capelin Gulch Fossil Site in Melrose, Newfoundland

Earlier, I said we’d stumble into a third Geopark. Well, here we are at the Capelin Gulch Fossil Site, quite by chance. Driving south of Port Union in the Melrose area, a spectacular view had us taking a small detour on a loop road, and then an even smaller loop had us trying to get closer. That’s when I caught sight of the Discovery UNESCO Global Geopark logo and made a quick left turn, informing Caroline that there seemed to be another Geosite down this road. Now at home, getting ready to write about this visit, it was nearly impossible to discover anything about it, probably because this and three other public sites were only brought into the Discovery Geopark system in mid-2023, and it seems that the internet hasn’t caught up with them yet.

Blueberries at Capelin Gulch Fossil Site in Melrose, Newfoundland

Is it our imagination, or do wild blueberries taste better than farmed berries?

Partridge Berries at Capelin Gulch Fossil Site in Melrose, Newfoundland

Caroline insisted these were partridgeberries and joyfully started popping them into her mouth. She handed me a couple; they seemed rather bitter instead of the sour taste I expected. They also had seeds. At some point, she thought maybe they weren’t partridgeberries but might have been lingonberries, but I told her that lingonberries don’t have seeds of that size. She tried reassuring me that they were some type of currant and safe to eat. I guess she was correct because I’m here able to write this.

Capelin Gulch Fossil Site in Melrose, Newfoundland

Approaching the rocky coast, we started seeing fossils and a nearby sign that informed us that the plant fossils found here are from the Ediacaran period of Earth’s history, or about 550 million years ago.

Capelin Gulch Fossil Site in Melrose, Newfoundland

There are fossils everywhere, but they are all fragments, and without a guide, we don’t know what we are looking at.

Capelin Gulch Fossil Site in Melrose, Newfoundland

There are hints of fossils everywhere, with more likely being exposed after each passing storm.

Capelin Gulch Fossil Site in Melrose, Newfoundland

The fragile resting on the resilient, the rare found on the common. Should we ever return to this exact place, there’s a likelihood that this rock will still be here, but this chance encounter with the snail shell will remain the only time in my life that I will have seen this particular shell before it returns to the fabric of elements. Maybe, if I were an enlightened entity, I’d understand that, in essence, we are always seeing everything in all as it transitions in and out of the matrix of temporality.

Capelin Gulch Fossil Site in Melrose, Newfoundland

While Caroline was busy over at the first cove, I continued down the rough path, trying to see where the trail continued until I came to a point where things got sketchy and too close to a cliffside to go on, and while I could see where the trail continued, I wasn’t certain that we’d be able to loop around, so this would be where we doubled back to where the trail began, except while Caroline was out in her world, she found a couple of urchin tests, its internal sphere-shaped shell, and a single raspberry, that we shared. A shared raspberry, that’s love.

Port Rexton, Newfoundland, Canada

Was it the mural, the weather, or that we’d seen Port Rexton beer featured at one of the restaurants we’ve eaten at? Whatever the motivation, we pulled up and were happier for the experience, even if we were running slightly behind schedule. Walking up, we passed a small trailer on the other side of the brewpub; it was a spot to get a bite to eat called Oh My Cheeses. Without the slightest desire for food, we walked right by and into the brewery, looking for souvenir beer to bring back to the States. The pub’s interior is terrific, and after Caroline sampled a few of the beers on tap, we were heading back to the car with a small selection of cans when she voiced regret for not trying the beer slushie made with Sea Buckthorn Sour and peach lychee juice. We were not going to leave with regrets, but then again, we will leave with regrets.

After putting the beer in the car and walking past Oh My Cheeses again, the woman inside the trailer said hi, and we got to talking. Somewhere in the blurry sequence of events, one of us returned to the pub and ordered the beer slushie as we waited for a signature award-winning cheese sandwich known as the Violet to be made. We were definitely not hungry, but the description of homemade blueberry jam, bacon, and aged white cheddar topped with balsamic glaze and fresh basil persuaded us that if we split the sandwich, we’d find space. Plus, it was more like dessert, not that Caroline needed dessert after having started lunch with ice cream, but that’s of no consequence because, in the interim, we’d gone on a wild adventure involving getting lost in the wilds of Newfoundland, so this was more of a celebratory moment required to replenish those spent calories. Sure, we finished it, but this was where the regret came in following the gluttony of wanting it all.

Port Rexton, Newfoundland, Canada

We were in Port Rexton, not for views, beer, or grilled cheese sandwiches, but for a hike on the Skerwink Trail.

Skerwink Trail in Port Rexton, Newfoundland, Canada

Being a contrarian, I opted not to start the Skerwink Loop Trail the official way, taking the trail under the large arched sign welcoming visitors. Instead, we headed up what essentially was the trail exit on the right. I think my main attraction for putting this trail on our itinerary was the sound of the name, which we learned is a local word for the shearwater seabird.

Skerwink Trail in Port Rexton, Newfoundland, Canada

Considering that we hadn’t arrived here until 4:30, we intended to nab a brief taste of the trail, turn around, and get back on the road for the three-hour drive to St. John’s still ahead of us. With the loop only 3.2 miles (5km) long and our routine walking speed of about 20 minutes a mile, we knew we could easily do the whole trail if we hoofed it. Of course, we don’t stop to gawk at beautiful sights on a walk through our neighborhood in Phoenix, nor do I pause to take 106 photos along the way. We also thought that if we weren’t making progress and felt we weren’t quite halfway, we could still turn around and bolt for the car. That common sense never reared its ugly head.

Skerwink Trail in Port Rexton, Newfoundland, Canada

Like salmon spawning, we worked against the stream of those who took the trail as intended and kept going further into the depths of the Skerwink Loop.

Skerwink Trail in Port Rexton, Newfoundland, Canada

The first part of the trail took us past a pond to White Cove Beach, leading to some minor elevation gain for a nice overlook of the Trinity Lighthouse. There was also a side trail with what appeared to be some serious elevation gain to an overlook at the top of the mountain, but we were racing against time, so it was easily skipped. Easily for me, not so much for Caroline. If she looks at the one StreetView panoramic image from up there, she might curse me or insist that next time we are in Newfoundland, we’ll complete that part of the trail.

Skerwink Trail in Port Rexton, Newfoundland, Canada

Once we reached the headland and the east side of the peninsula, the views became spectacular; not that the west side was Swiss cheese, but look at this. I don’t know if you can make out the trail that brings visitors to the edge, but that was a zone of butt-puckery I wasn’t ready to wrestle with.

Skerwink Trail in Port Rexton, Newfoundland, Canada

It turns out that this side of the trail is considerably sketchier, meaning it is what I’d consider a somewhat frightening amount of exposure on steep areas literally carved out of a cliffside, but the views are, without a doubt, stunning.

Skerwink Trail in Port Rexton, Newfoundland, Canada

And when you think you’ve been offered an adequate reward for the effort invested in hiking this trail, the payoff just continues.

Skerwink Trail in Port Rexton, Newfoundland, Canada

When we arrived at the trailhead, two women were also starting the hike late. They took the trail to the left, and somewhere along the way out here, we passed each other, probably at the halfway point, because the four of us arrived back at the parking lot just minutes apart. When they saw us getting in our car, they turned around and came back toward us for a chat. It turned out that they were identifying with our Arizona license plate as they, too, had driven from Arizona, from nearby Mesa, and were surprised to encounter us neighbors so far from home. As I appreciated their efforts and the speed at which they covered the trail, I had to ask their ages; they were 71 and 69 years old. I must take note to remember them and hope I remain inspired by their tenacity and great health, enabling them to enjoy such big endeavors.

Skerwink Trail in Port Rexton, Newfoundland, Canada

When one sees so many captivating sights, it’s easy to become lost in the perfect experience, leaving us wanting more. We entertain the idea that a subsequent visit should bring us back to this moment at the same spot, and while there are hints of those times when we return, it is the addition of new points on the map and adventures in proximity to a special place that has the effect of lending greater impact and draw after learning that we’ve not exhausted the possibilities to find new delights. While it is wonderful to revisit memories when impressions are so strong, I feel that gaining a more comprehensive overview begins the process of building a familiarity that lets us gather a sense of belonging.

Skerwink Trail in Port Rexton, Newfoundland, Canada

This philosophy can be difficult to live with when we rush through a place, as we have here this afternoon. But, as convinced as we are that it all deserves a second glance, there are probably 1,000 other locations next to shorelines here in Newfoundland we are yet to explore that will be equally enchanting. There is an undeniable wealth of experience collected when our impressions entice us, even while we are still standing in situ, that we must return as soon as possible. We are building the memories of legends where epic love stories have unfolded.

Baileys Pond near Lockston, Newfoundland, Canada

Then, a half-hour later, maybe more or less, we are somewhere else falling into yet more awe-inspiring moments; this is the nature of the vacations experienced by the two of us.